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Earl Fender

Getting Comfortable
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Earl Fender last won the day on November 30 2016

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    West Sussex
  1. Thanks for the reply, it did cross my mind but if the crankshaft sensor was U/S, I presume that the ignition would also not work due to not knowing the timing position? In this particular case the ignition works a treat and i'm getting a strong spark at the end of the HT lead. I also thought of plugs but they would not all fail at the same time and even then it would at least start albeit a bit rough and missing.
  2. Hiya, advice needed before I light blue touch paper and stand clear!! I have a W reg 1.8 petrol FLander that just refuses to start. Nice strong clean spark at the plugs and fuel is reaching the injector fuel rail but when it spins over it just doesn't want to catch. I'm thinking that the fuel is not getting through the injectors and that there is a leccy fault. I see from the Haynes manual that the injectors are triggered from the ECU on one side and are connected to a relay on the other. The relay also has the oxygen sensor going to it but the wiring diagram doesn't show the internal connections of the relay so I'm not able to meter it out. I have a couple of questions, i.e. any ideas where this relay is located? Following the cabling from the O2 sensor doesn't locate it. In addition, I notice on the wiring diagram that injectors for cylinders 1 & 4 are wired in parallel as are injectors 2 & 3. This would mean that when Injec 1 is open on the compression stroke to let fuel in, this would also be the case on Injec 4 which would at that time be on the exhaust stroke. Any ideas how this works please?? Overall, any ideas where to look for a fix to this non starting lump of sh*te?? Ta and Happy New Year to whoever comes up with the correct answer!! :-)
  3. http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/hampshire/6531589.stm
  4. For anyone who has ever trid to fix a car using one of these bl00dy things: How to read a Haynes manual… Haynes: Rotate anticlockwise. Translation: Clamp with molegrips then beat repeatedly with hammer anticlockwise. Haynes: This is a snug fit. Translation: Clamp with molegrips then beat repeatedly with hammer. Haynes: This is a tight fit. Translation: Clamp with molegrips then beat repeatedly with a hammer. Haynes: As described in Chapter 7... Translation: That'll teach you not to read through before you start. Now you are looking at scary photos of the inside of a gearbox. Haynes: Pry... Translation: Hammer a screwdriver into... Haynes: Undo... Translation: Go buy a tin of WD40 (giant economy size). Haynes: Retain tiny spring... Translation: PINGGGG - "Where the hell did that go?" Haynes: Press and rotate to remove bulb... Translation: OK - that's the glass bit off, now fetch some good pliers to dig out the bayonet part (and maybe a plaster or two). Haynes: Lightly... Translation: Start off lightly and build up till the veins on your forehead are throbbing then clamp with molegrips then beat repeatedly with hammer. Haynes: Weekly checks... Translation: If it isn't broken don't fix it. Haynes: Routine maintenance... Translation: If it isn't broken, it's about to be. We warned you... Haynes: One spanner rating. Translation: An infant could do this... so how did you manage to **** it up? Haynes: Two spanner rating. Translation: Now you may think that you can do this because two is a low, teensy weensy number... but you also thought the wiring diagram was a map of the Tokyo underground (in fact that would have been more use to you). Haynes: Three spanner rating. Translation: Make sure you won't need your car for a couple of days. Haynes: Four spanner rating. Translation: You're not seriously considering this are you? Haynes: Five spanner rating. Translation: OK - but don't ever carry your loved ones in it again. Haynes: If not, you can fabricate your own special tool like this... Translation: Hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha. Haynes: Compress... Translation: Squeeze with all your might, jump up and down on it, throw it at the garage wall, then find some molegrips and a hammer... Haynes: Inspect... Translation: Squint at really hard and pretend you know what you are looking at, then declare in a loud knowing voice to your wife "Yep, as I thought, it's going to need a new one" Haynes: Carefully... Translation: You are about to suffer deep abrasions. Haynes: Retaining nut... Translation: Yes, that's it, that big spherical blob of rust. Haynes: Get an assistant... Translation: Prepare to humiliate yourself in front of someone you know. Haynes: Turning the engine will be easier with the spark plugs removed. Translation: However, starting the engine afterwards will be much harder. Once that sinking pit of your stomach feeling has subsided, you can start to feel deeply ashamed as you gingerly refit the spark plugs. Haynes: Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal. Translation: Yeah, right. But you swear in different places. Haynes: Prise away plastic locating pegs... Translation: Snap off... Haynes: Using a suitable drift... Translation: Clamp with molegrips then beat repeatedly with hammer. Haynes: Everyday toolkit Translation: RAC Card & Mobile Phone Haynes: Apply moderate heat... Translation: Unless you have a blast furnace, don't bother. Alternatively, clamp with molegrips then beat repeatedly with hammer. Haynes: Index Translation: List of all the things in the book, bar what you need to do.
  5. Check the headlining at the inside top of the door. If it is wet then it's not the door rubber, instead the water is getting in through the screwholes that hold the top outer trim in place. It then just drips down at a fair rate of knots into the cubby hole where it becomes a stagnent paddling pool. You will need to remove the outer side trims then the top trim. Unscrew the metal bracket that the top trim clips onto then get some mastic and bed the nylon clips into the holes in the body using the mastic. Run a line of mastic across the top of the screw clips the width of the vehicle (well, what would be covered when the metal strip is back in place) and then squirt some more mastic into the screwholes in the nylon clips then screw the metal bracket back in. Refit the outer trim and snip snip - Bob's yer aunty. You will probably end up breaking the plastic clips that hold the trim on when removing the trim so you best to buy 6 clips for the side trims (each is held on with 3 clips) and 5 of a different type for the top trim before you start. For info, the part numbers are: Side trim clips = DCE 100560 Top trim clips = DYC 101470 Hope this helps.
  6. Have a look on fleabay, there are many auctions for Jag Xtype wheels which DO fit. I know, I have a set of 205/16 fitted to mine - much better traction.
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