tonyalbers

Too bad, but thanks for the info. /tony

Ok guys, I've been at it all day now and I'm starting to see weird creatures lurking in the background now.. I wanted to get rid of the chirping and clicking caused by a failing exhaust manifold gasket, when the upper rearmost bolt showed up to be snapped 3mm belov the surface of the cylinder head. I've tried numerous things, drilling a small hole in the remaining bolt and using one of these fancy things with an opposite thread to see if I could get it out. Unfortunately the drill snapped in the bolt, so now i have a cylinder head with a hardened steel bolt piece stuck in it. I even tried to weld a piece to the snapped bolt, but it just breaks off. My question is: Is it possible to drill a new hole right next to the old one without risking drilling into a coolant channel? I was thinking about 10mm to the right of the existing hole, almost directly above the lower hole. Any ideas? This really sucks! /tony

Hi all, I've been using this nanocom for about a year now, and I'm very happy with it. Unfortunately, I can't understand all the error codes it tells me. Is there someone ine here who can explain them to me? I will make a dump and post it here if someone wants to take a shot at it. I clear the codes regularly, since the car behaves strangely after a few months if I don't. Of course this means that there is something that needs fixing. /tony

I've had good results using warm linseed oil with some siccative and a small amount of black iron oxide(makes it easier to see where you have applied the oil). I put it in a pump-up garden sprayer, which sits in hot water(80 deg C). Then I just spray it on. For the inside of the chassis I use the same stuff, but with an undercoating gun and a thin hose. It's very environmentally friendly(you can cook your food in the oil if you want -but don't add any iron oxide or siccative ). It hardens in a few days and becomes very strong. Best applied in the summertime. Lasts for years, but I usually check it every summer. /tony

fook! It just went for £228 Craaaazy people out there maan! /tony

Anybody got any ideas where to get one of these? I need it for my D2, since we will be taxed from january if we don't use one on a diesel car. Tax will be around £140 / year. /tony

Thanks guys, I'm a good customer at both paddocks, craddocks and others. But sometimes I'd also like to save the 50-60% on buying a vacuum cleaner or a kitchen appliance in the UK. So a company that would receive my stuff on a UK address, relabel it and post it to me would be great. Interparcel seems to come close to this. Thanks, Tony

Hi all, Does anyone know of a place in the UK where I can have things I buy in online shops delivered to, who can then send them to me in DK? The reason I ask is that there are huge amounts of money to save on buying parts etc. in the UK. However, many shops only deliver to UK addresses. Thanks, Tony

Not really a good idea, the chimney should be as short as possible, but long enough to clear the building and create enough draft. This chimney is actually extremely dangerous, since the metal will act as a radiator, cooling the smoke and causing the tar and unburned particles to stick to the inside of the chimney, which can result in a chimney fire. This WILL burn hot enough to melt the chimneypipe and burn down your workshop. Instead, try to improve the stove itself and insulate the chimney to give better draft and less risk of chimney fires. Wikipedia - chimneyfires A couple of general observations: 1. Consider using fire bricks or similar isolationg stuff on the inside of the stove to drive the temperature up. This will improve efficiency and reduce smoke a lot. There's no reason to isolate the bottom though, it will soon be covered by an insulation layer of ashes. 2. Consider a jacket of plating around the stove, with about 1 inch of free space, to turn it from radiating heat to convection heating. This increases efficiency and reduces the necessary distances to nearby walls and combustible things. /tony

Nothing a bit of plastic padding and some netting won't fix. No worries mate. Please, can I come and see the MOT inspection with you ? /tony

Thanks Jeremy, /tony

Hi guys, The mrs. is driving a 620ti, and I need to put new brakes and exhaust on it. Do any of you know of an online shop in the UK where I can buy those things at a reasonable price? Cheers, /tony

Ok, thanks guys /tony

1998 Disco II Td5 130000 miles on the clock. If I start my car in neutral, with the clutch pressed, everything seems fine. Then, when I slowly release it, it howls. It's not a high-pitched noise, but more like WOOOOOO. Then, when it's fully released, its silent. And there's no rattling or other noise from the clutch bearing. It's been getting worse lately. What can this be? A worn out bearing in the gearbox? TIA, Tony

My nanocom gave me this output from my D2: The TD5 ecu contain the following faults: FAULT 08-01 air conditioning fan drive over temperature LOGGED FAULT 08-02 fuel pump drive over temperature LOGGED FAULT 08-03 tacho drive over temperature LOGGED FAULT 08-04 gearbox/abs drive overtemperature LOGGED FAULT 08-05 air conditioning clutch over temperature LOGGED FAULT 08-06 mil lamp drive over temperature LOGGED FAULT 08-07 glowplug relay drive overtemperature LOGGED FAULT 10-01 air conditioning fan drive open load LOGGED FAULT 10-02 fuel pump drive open load LOGGED FAULT 10-03 tachometer open load LOGGED FAULT 10-04 gearbox/abs drive open load LOGGED FAULT 10-05 air conditioning clutch open load LOGGED FAULT 10-06 mil lamp drive open load LOGGED FAULT 10-07 glowplug lamp drive open load LOGGED FAULT 10-08 glowplug relay drive open load LOGGED FAULT 12-01 air conditioning fan drive open load CURRENT FAULT 12-02 fuel pump drive open load CURRENT FAULT 12-03 tachometer open load CURRENT FAULT 12-04 gearbox/abs drive open load CURRENT FAULT 12-05 air conditioning clutch open load CURRENT FAULT 12-06 mil lamp drive open load CURRENT FAULT 12-07 glowplug lamp drive open load CURRENT FAULT 14-01 air conditioning fan drive open load CURRENT FAULT 14-02 fuel pump drive open load CURRENT FAULT 14-03 tachometer open load CURRENT FAULT 14-04 gearbox/abs drive open load CURRENT FAULT 14-05 air conditioning clutch open load CURRENT FAULT 14-06 mil lamp drive open load CURRENT FAULT 14-07 glowplug lamp drive open load CURRENT I'm not too fond of all the over temp stuff(and of course that's what I', really interested in finding out what is), but I guess the "open load" means that they're ok? -although they say "FAULT" Any advice appreciated. /tony