Gazzar

Yes. It's over cu ni pipes, so mostly cosmetic. It should allow me to see chafing and damage, though. Brass fittings, too. Hate rust.

Yes, I like it, but have nothing to compare with. T wash first, then sprayed on with a Schultz gun. It's tough stuff, I've had screw drivers slip on to it and it's never marked You still see the galv imperfections through it, but I'm sure you could apply it thicker if needs be. I'll apply some wax as a sacrificial layer in the vulnerable areas.

I've just emailed a huge order for parts in. Good thing payday is soon!

I know the theory, but I think I'll leave it be. It's a series with styling inspired by a brick. A warm cam, spi, fancy exhaust, high compression head and an extra 10% capacity over standard should be enough to push the RRC diffs to near legal limits.

Do you mean turning the step in the combustion chamber into more of a slope? I think I'll leave be, unless it's one a couple of hours work with a die grinder, I'd rather not....

Auto correct!

Suspect auto-corrupt may have been deployed.

It's supposedly a high compression head, Roland, from ACR, think it might be one of his, it's good a number stamped on it that ties in to one he did in the 1990's. Although my mate didn't think much porting had been done to it. I'm getting it skimmed, and tested, that should do, along with the new cam and exhaust. Don't see the point to head work, it mostly favours the high RPMs.

Whatever you do, consider corrosion. A sponge might hold moisture, perhaps a decent cavity wax treatment should feature in your plans.

The bores need a hone. That's mostly it. I'll order some nice shiny bits and high quality seals tomorrow time permitting.

The verdict is mostly good, and better than I feared, a lot better. My engineer builder expert thinks the engine is fine and hasn't done a whole lot. New shells. New cam, new followers and a couple of the tappets. He's happy with the rockers, but the bushes on the rockers need to be checked after the new rocker shaft, so might need replacing anyway. The head would benefit from a skim, and the exhaust valves might need a bit taken away, they have ever so slightly the shadow of the seat in them. He's going to do bring the head to his regular guy to do all that. I'm going to replace the oil pump, because of the oil issues on the cam, probably an abundance of caution, though. The crank could do with a very very slight polish, which he's shown me how to do, and the pistons need new rings, but only just. So, stick it back together time coming soon! I'll compose the parts list and send it off. Who knows, this might be turning over by Easter! I'm chuffed!

Standard series rad, series 3. Looks like. 4 cyl. https://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/577609h-radiator-4-cylinder-new-1968-84-4-row-heavy-duty.html One option.

Would Steve Parker be any good? They do these conversion kits for various engines. Mine wasn't great, but I got it to work....

Never needed it. Mine starts without. But, if you're Arctic based, then you'll need it.

Yes, I don't understand chemistry, too close to magic, but I know caustic and ally don't work well. I'll need to look up the acid that doesn't eat ally and does eat steel when I get to the door tops, though. But that's another day.

Thanks! Is there a quick easy to decoke the combustion chamber? Mr muscle?

The valves have a lot of deposits. Is this normal. I took two out, and started to clean, but ran out of time. I think I'll replace the valve with deposits. If they aren't mad money, I might do both.

The crank feels really smooth, mirror like, but the photos don't reflect that, I think there's particles in the light oil I've sprayed on the journals. I hope to get a more experienced opinion on Tuesday. If it were me, I'd stick new shells on, and call it fine. But I'm of Yorkshire Scots descent, so have a tendency to exhibit tight fistedness. I know of this tendency, so try to compensate.

The rocker shaft has significant witness marks where the rockers were. I think I'll replace the rockers and the shaft anyway.

The pads on the rockers show wear. And I'm not convinced by the bushes.

The rocker gear is all a bit marginal, I think.

I also cleaned the cam followers and tappets. I think this one is worn:

I really don't know what's worn out, or what's good for another 50,000 miles.

Takes quite a while to do this. I also broke 2 oil control rings, which are tricky to remove. Piston 3 oil control ring was stuck into the groove.

I cleaned up the conrods and the pistons next: