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twodoorgaz

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About twodoorgaz

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    Manchester

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  1. Thanks Pete. i hadn’t heard of them before but as soon as I saw the names I recognised Emrys from the CLR writing staff. just called them and am taking it up there tomorrow for them to have a look.
  2. Hi folks. just looking to see if anyone could recommend someone to repair the footwells on a defender near Manchester? It’s a couple of small repairs - probably not a full footwell but looking for someone who would know how a bulkhead is fabricated and who could let in new steel with the bulkhead in situ (butt-weld and linish flat) rather than a normal mot-patch) im loathed to do it myself - still haunted from all the series ones I’ve Done over the years. thank you.
  3. Guys - that’s incredibly useful, thank you! I'm picking up the 90 on Tuesday, once back I’ll have a weigh up on access to see which parts I need to remove to access the rust but will bear All the above in mind. The point on the alarm is really handy to know - I’ve never had a LR with an alarm before so all new to me.
  4. Dealer. I found the rust during an inspection - the pics show it after I’d poked it through and they’d removed the carpets and as a result got significant money off the price. While they’d be happy to do it, it would just end up being a patch over. I’ve rebuilt plenty of series bulkheads before and know I’ll take the time to do a more careful job so would prefer to do it myself. Had it up on ramps and spent an hour going over it: this is the only rust on the car.
  5. Hi guys. just put a deposit down on a defender: a 2010 puma 90CSW. after looking at dozens of them, the best one in my price bracket had just one fault: a small isolated bit of rust in the passenger footwell. Otherwise it’s mint with very low mileage. its a small patch about 2” long along the outside edge of the reinforcing plate. So plan is: 1) drill out spot welds and remove reinforcing plate inside footwell. 2) clean surrounding area back to bare steel 3) cut out rust and butt-weld in a small piece of new steel 4) prime and then paint footwell in correct red colour (but leaving bare patches under the reinforcing plate spot welds) 5) refit reinforcing plate with puddle welds and touch up over the linished welds hassle I didn’t need, but necessary. to do the job properly I’d like to wire brush and repaint the rest of the outer-skin of footwell: buried deep in the back of the arch (passenger side). This will also give me access to weld on the outside too (I’ll need 100% penetration so that I can linish back for an invisible-ish repair). ...unfortunately that will likely mean removing the passenger wing. Up to now I’ve only ever had series land rovers, the defender is a bit more complex with inner wings and eyebrows. I've watched a few videos on YouTube and they all say that I’d need to remove the eyebrow to access the wiring loom. But I also read that TD5 and later models have a single plug at the back of the wing. does anyone happen to know if when removing a puma wing whether I can disconnect a multi-plug and thereby leave both the inner wing and the eyebrow attached when removing the wing? thank you!
  6. Hi guys... looks like I’ve let the side down. I’ve gone and bought a civvy model: A 2010 90CSW. Pending no hiccups in the finance I’ll be collecting on Tuesday. thank you ever so much for your help in the above.
  7. Thanks guys. This is really useful. Can I try and shovel another question into the thread, re: 90xd axles? I’ve just picked up James Taylor’s book to give me a bit of research into the model and it talks about these vehicles having thicker axle casings, stronger halfshafts and 4-pin diffs. It doesn’t specify 90/110/130. Do we know if the 90” axles are indeed stronger than their civillian counterparts... or is it simply the long wheelbase models that got the all singing p38/uprated rear axle with the reinforcing rib welded to it?
  8. Hi folks. The search is on. i did look at a civillian CSW today. 2010 and immaculate but a bit too rusty underneath for me. So off to view the wolf’s next week. could I ask another question? Subject to removing the roll hoops is it possible to fit standard civillian roof choices to a Wolf (hardtop or truck cab)? just checking to see if the sides aren’t a different profile or anything. Not a fan of the large fibreglass offering: unless they’re worth anything on the open market if I take it and resell to offset the cost of an alternative.
  9. Wow! Well - that’s decision made - Wolf it is. I’ll head down to Nottingham via Doncaster and that should let me hit two of the big sites for a look around: as soon as they reopen that is.
  10. Thanks guys - Gluv: now that might be a game changer: if the Wolf’s has dinitrol from new that opens up a new world of options. do you know if it was in all the cavities (bulkhead, door and bonnet frames) or just the chassis? Was an outside treatment used too or just sprayed internally?
  11. Hi everyone. My first post in the military section. The majority of my past cars have been Series IIAs, IIIs and 300TDi Discos. For the first time, I’m looking to buy a Defender. I’m guessing at a spend of around £12k (can go up a bit if I need to) and I’m specifically looking for an ex-army/RAF/services vehicle. I’d be looking to take delivery in late June/start of July (subject to lockdown). I’d be looking for one that has either seen light use (eg: the yellow ground crew ex RAF ones) or one that had been through a cherry picked refurb programme (like REMUS). I’d be looking for a late TDi or TD5 and would consider a 90 or 110 (in the case of the latter it would need to be either a station wagon or a utility that still has its rear bulkhead for a truck cab) the single most important thing to me is rust: chassis and bulkhead. I’m really looking for a vehicle that I can clean, professionally rust proof and cost the underbody... and then call it done from a structural perspective. That and the knowledge of the quality of parts used in past maintenance is the main reason that I’m not considering a civilian model. could I ask a few queries? 1) which of the refurb programmes are worth looking out for? (REMUS, TITHONUS, etc) any guidance on what was included in each would be very helpful. 2) are there vehicles from a particular branch that are known to have seen easier lives/better maintenance/lower miles? 3) who are the main suppliers these days - I’ve seen L Jackson &co, ex-mod.co.uk, witham specialist vehicles And Blanchard - are there any worth avoiding/any I've missed? I’ve read their ads for years but never actually been to their premises - I live in Manchester so some aren’t too far away. 4) does my price bracket need to go up or down a bit? any help would be massively appreciated, thank you.
  12. Guys - thank you very much. Think I’m all set to start cracking on with getting the last of the bits
  13. Thanks guys - this is incredibly useful. So, having had a quick scan through the various parts books my plan would be: pedal box: SIII (got) servo: SIII pn STC1816 (got) master cylinder: early Ninety pn NRC9529 (need) G-valve (stops rear brakes locking): early Ninety pn NRC8215 - with correct angled bracket (need) calipers: early Ninety pn RTc3168/9 (got) discs: early ninety, non vented pn FRC7329 (got but will replace) rear wheel Cylinders: early ninety pn RTc3168/9 (got bit will replace) rear backplates: early ninety pn RTc3166/7 (got) rear shoes: RTC3171 (got but will replace) Cuprinickel pipes, tees, clips, brackets, mud shields, switches, etc will all be new and generic. Plus the Heystee swivel kit and hubs. So, everything is from the exact same model year of Land Rover Ninety, except for the servo and pedal box which will be from a late SIII- does this sound about right to give a factory-feel pedal?
  14. Thank you, but think that Terri-Anne has it all covered on her website (power brakes for series Land Rover) - the servo can, just about be made to fit by changing the forks, but it looks a bit odd (this one is intended to be a bit stealth). pending no big changes in opinion, I think that the above is the reassurance I needed to stick with the factory servo and the 90 master cylinder coupled with the correct 90 calipers/rear cylinders and the various valves etc. now just need to visit the vault of, ever more valuable spare parts I have, to pick out the bits to sell to cover the Heystee kit. thank you!
  15. Hi folks. Hoping someone can educate me a bit here. I’m about to place my next order with Heystee for a disc brake swivel kit for the front of a SWB series Land Rover - this time for my father’s vehicle. The series Land Rover in question is a later SIII, fitted as standard with a servo assisted pedal box. The vehicle is in the middle of a chassis swap And has been neglected for decades, so I’m planning to renew the brake system wholesale. I’ve already bought a set of front calipers and backplates from a 200TDI ninety. These use the same 10” rear drums, but have slightly different rear cylinders - so, in order to keep a near stock brake setup - I’ll be using the same discs/calipers/master cylinder/wheel cylinder and shoes/drums as a factory 200TDI defender - all new or recon. No issues there. but the servo itself is causing some confusion. the factory SIII used a 6” servo. The factory 200TDi 90 used an 8” servo. You can get a defender pedal box to fit, but we’re not keen on it as it needs a bit of a mod and doesn’t have the right look. that leaves two options - using the factory 6” servo with the complete 200TDI 90 brake setup... or doing the same thing, except splashing out for one of Heystee’s custom 8” servos that fit onto the series pedal box. the issue with the latter is cost (they’re 3-4x the price of a standard LR servo and also spares availability - if I ever need to replace it, then it leaves me reliant on one manufacturer - something I’m not keen on. so my question is: does the servo size have any impact on the braking performance/functionality or just in the pedal effort? If it’s just effort and if the pedal will still feel “right” then I’ll stick with stock and save our money. i notice that North America Overland - one of the people that fit these kits, seem to use standard servos with a “late SIII/early Ninety” master cylinder. Heystee push you towards vented discs, which I don’t need. could anyone advise? Thank you.
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