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About twodoorgaz

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  1. Thicker centres! Thanks Western that explains it. they certainly seem deeper but with them being wider I wasn’t sure (and visiallually struggled to tell) whether it actually moved the tyre sidewalL out all that much or if it just spread the tyre width a bit more.
  2. Hi folks. May be a daft question but did the original 127s and 130s come with 750 tyres? (Rather than the later ones that came with 235s) if so, I can’t get my head round why they came with 6.5j rims. Would it really widen the track by that much? Or would it have been more about having more meat in the rim for strength? reason I ask is that I’ve always fitted 130rims to my series builds and have a set in storage replays for my new build and I remember when the last one was finished expecting the track to widen much more than it did with 750s fitted.
  3. Thanks Pete. i hadn’t heard of them before but as soon as I saw the names I recognised Emrys from the CLR writing staff. just called them and am taking it up there tomorrow for them to have a look.
  4. Hi folks. just looking to see if anyone could recommend someone to repair the footwells on a defender near Manchester? It’s a couple of small repairs - probably not a full footwell but looking for someone who would know how a bulkhead is fabricated and who could let in new steel with the bulkhead in situ (butt-weld and linish flat) rather than a normal mot-patch) im loathed to do it myself - still haunted from all the series ones I’ve Done over the years. thank you.
  5. Guys - that’s incredibly useful, thank you! I'm picking up the 90 on Tuesday, once back I’ll have a weigh up on access to see which parts I need to remove to access the rust but will bear All the above in mind. The point on the alarm is really handy to know - I’ve never had a LR with an alarm before so all new to me.
  6. Dealer. I found the rust during an inspection - the pics show it after I’d poked it through and they’d removed the carpets and as a result got significant money off the price. While they’d be happy to do it, it would just end up being a patch over. I’ve rebuilt plenty of series bulkheads before and know I’ll take the time to do a more careful job so would prefer to do it myself. Had it up on ramps and spent an hour going over it: this is the only rust on the car.
  7. Hi guys. just put a deposit down on a defender: a 2010 puma 90CSW. after looking at dozens of them, the best one in my price bracket had just one fault: a small isolated bit of rust in the passenger footwell. Otherwise it’s mint with very low mileage. its a small patch about 2” long along the outside edge of the reinforcing plate. So plan is: 1) drill out spot welds and remove reinforcing plate inside footwell. 2) clean surrounding area back to bare steel 3) cut out rust and butt-weld in a small piece of new steel 4) prime and then paint footwel
  8. Hi guys... looks like I’ve let the side down. I’ve gone and bought a civvy model: A 2010 90CSW. Pending no hiccups in the finance I’ll be collecting on Tuesday. thank you ever so much for your help in the above.
  9. Thanks guys. This is really useful. Can I try and shovel another question into the thread, re: 90xd axles? I’ve just picked up James Taylor’s book to give me a bit of research into the model and it talks about these vehicles having thicker axle casings, stronger halfshafts and 4-pin diffs. It doesn’t specify 90/110/130. Do we know if the 90” axles are indeed stronger than their civillian counterparts... or is it simply the long wheelbase models that got the all singing p38/uprated rear axle with the reinforcing rib welded to it?
  10. Hi folks. The search is on. i did look at a civillian CSW today. 2010 and immaculate but a bit too rusty underneath for me. So off to view the wolf’s next week. could I ask another question? Subject to removing the roll hoops is it possible to fit standard civillian roof choices to a Wolf (hardtop or truck cab)? just checking to see if the sides aren’t a different profile or anything. Not a fan of the large fibreglass offering: unless they’re worth anything on the open market if I take it and resell to offset the cost of an alternative.
  11. Wow! Well - that’s decision made - Wolf it is. I’ll head down to Nottingham via Doncaster and that should let me hit two of the big sites for a look around: as soon as they reopen that is.
  12. Thanks guys - Gluv: now that might be a game changer: if the Wolf’s has dinitrol from new that opens up a new world of options. do you know if it was in all the cavities (bulkhead, door and bonnet frames) or just the chassis? Was an outside treatment used too or just sprayed internally?
  13. Hi everyone. My first post in the military section. The majority of my past cars have been Series IIAs, IIIs and 300TDi Discos. For the first time, I’m looking to buy a Defender. I’m guessing at a spend of around £12k (can go up a bit if I need to) and I’m specifically looking for an ex-army/RAF/services vehicle. I’d be looking to take delivery in late June/start of July (subject to lockdown). I’d be looking for one that has either seen light use (eg: the yellow ground crew ex RAF ones) or one that had been through a cherry picked refurb programme (like REMUS). I’d be l
  14. Guys - thank you very much. Think I’m all set to start cracking on with getting the last of the bits
  15. Thanks guys - this is incredibly useful. So, having had a quick scan through the various parts books my plan would be: pedal box: SIII (got) servo: SIII pn STC1816 (got) master cylinder: early Ninety pn NRC9529 (need) G-valve (stops rear brakes locking): early Ninety pn NRC8215 - with correct angled bracket (need) calipers: early Ninety pn RTc3168/9 (got) discs: early ninety, non vented pn FRC7329 (got but will replace) rear wheel Cylinders: early ninety pn RTc3168/9 (got bit will replace) rear backplates: early ninety pn RTc3166/7 (got) rear s
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