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twodoorgaz

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About twodoorgaz

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  1. Screw on oil filter conversion

    The 2.5 petrol ones were quite pricy a few years ago, so I got one from a 2.5 diesel (same casting) and just bought the little petrol-specific blanking bits separately by part number. Think it cost about £15 all in.
  2. Series swb 5 Speed Conversion - Help

    Yes - also fitted to the RRC of the same vintage - they come up on ebay quite often, usually about £30-£40. This is the search term I had saved while waiting for a cheap one (paste into eBay and scan through till you see one that looks right): (disco,discovery,rrc,rangerover,range) (prop,propshaft) -td5 -tdi -tdv6 -2.7 -sport -p38 -l322 -l405 There is one listed, but its very expensive and in the Netherlands: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-Classic-propshaft-with-catalyst-/311956754784?hash=item48a2125160:g:O3cAAOSwC6dZs-vp I've just bought one for £30, though will need to have it extended (stumpy R380 with bell housing face in same position as 4-speed, series transfer box moved back 4" to compensate for longer box - just having Richards weld on a 2nd set of bolt-up xrossmember brackets 4" back without touching/cutting the rest of the chassis). Seen a few in this configuration where the standard prop cleared the gearbox crossmember - even on parabolics. But it was noticeably tighter than stock, so a skinny prop should return the clearance to an acceptable level.
  3. Series swb 5 Speed Conversion - Help

    Bandog - re: the 1mm clearance - is this on a SII/IIA chassis or a SIII? I realise there's a difference in the clutches and the gearbox cossmember webbing between the two. A pic of the potential clash would be massive useful. I've collected the ashcroft kit, a stumpy R380 and a skinny front prop ready to do the conversion but would love to see where the potential clash lies. Thank you.
  4. Can anyone recommend a breakers yard in Spain for the Santana series Land Rovers? I have contacted two so far, but these are just the ones with the shiniest websites. Thank you.
  5. dressing-up a 2.5 (17H) petrol to look like a 2.25?

    Hi folks. thought I'd update this thread. I have nearly everything I need now (I think). Its getting bolted to a Stumpy R380 (already got) - the stumpy R380 has the same bell housing pattern as the earlier, short bell housing, LT77 so it should be a factory fit to the 17H flywheel housing I have. So I have a 17H block with flywheel, flywheel housing and oil filter housing. Its already got a series-style fuel pump: And then I've bought: from a '901' Series III petrol engine... Sump 8:1 head (will be recon'd to 9:1, U/L and 17H spec valves) Rocker cover Side fill oil tube and baffle Rocker cover Dipstick (I can straighten and re-use the metric dipstick tube from the 17H) Timing cover Water pump Fan and pulley Thermostat housing Engine mounts Rocker assembly, timing assembly and a big heap of fasteners (I'll probably replace these with new but handy to have for mock-up - especially the fasteners as I'll be mixing metric and imperial by part number) and... an inlet and exhaust manifold from a 2.5 petrol. And… I have a stage 1 v8 cable throttle assembly (sorry, no pics - its in the loft) Still to track down are: Series IIA heater inlet and outlet unons/taps (should screw into the imperial head) A Series III alternator bracket A Weber 2.5 17H weber carb (32/34 DMTL) and inlet plenum Crank pulley and starting handle dog from a 5MB 2.25 (late SIII or early one-ten) Not a million miles away from starting the tear-down, machining and rebuild. Any tips on the recipe for this franken-engine would be very welcome indeed.
  6. dressing-up a 2.5 (17H) petrol to look like a 2.25?

    Thank you very much! Just what I was looking for.
  7. dressing-up a 2.5 (17H) petrol to look like a 2.25?

    Hi - I'd be glad to post up pictures here. Dressing it up to look like either a 3MB 2.25 from a SIIA or I'd even settle for it looking like 5MB 2.25 from a late SIII. The carb will be the big giveaway - if I spring for the SU kit it will look like a tweaked Series engine. Not going to the far end of a fart with it - just a few swaps while I have it in bits to make it look and fit that little bit less obvious.
  8. Hello folks. After a long search I've tracked down a 17H 2.5 petrol for SIIA build. Here are some pictures for… well, no reason at all - but we all like pics don't we? (scroll down for the actual question) Now my love for this engine comes from the timing cover. As it retains a timing chain (unlike TDis, 2.5 NADs, etc), it makes a perfect fit in the series engine bay and the engine note seems 'right' just with a smudge more grunt. It will be getting a full rebuild before fitting, and I'm obviously missing a few bits. I realise I can drop it straight in with a tweaked exhaust, appropriate carbs and a modd'd cable throttle but as I'm reconing it anyway, I'd like to rebuild it a little more subtle. I remember there was a chap on the forum who dressed a 2.5NAD to look like a 2.25d and was wondering if anyone could advise on the bits I can change over for a 2.25? Ideally I'd like to do the following. Can anyone advise if this will work without of course impeding the performance of the engine? 2.25 Timing cover inc. water pump & 4-bladed fan, pulleys and starting handle crank dog. 17H Sump 2.25 Alternator mounts. 2.25 Engine mounts 2.25 Oil filler tube to side of block 2.25 Lift pump (this one already has one, though I did think it should have been electric) 2.25 Cylinder head and thermostat neck (*NB the head will be going to ACR for stage 2.1, so don't think it matters whether the donor is 2.25 or 2.5 - hardened valve seats if coming from a 2.5) 17H Inlet/exhaust manifolds and correct Webber carb (have found a set already) - BUT I'm also saving to see if I can run to the ACR SU kit plus manifolds which can fit both the 2.25 and 2.5 - this would be ideal as it looks lovely and period. Realise the 2.25 zenith will fit, but suspect it will strangle the engine. Stage 1 V8 cable throttle and 17H cable (easy to knock something up but I have both already) 17H Flywheel and housing (its being bolted to a stumpy R380 so I have so no need to worry about this) 17H Starter motor (plus slight alteraton to wiring) - seems smaller and more powerful than the standard Series fare. 17H Spin-on oil filter 2.25 rocker cover 2.25 heater hoses and connectors Standard Lucas dizzy (or MJ if I get giddy) Painting the block duck egg blue (wrong for a 5MB, but right for a IIA) Custom exhaust - either Steve Parker's off the shelf one or ACR's off the shelf one to match the manifold. Finally - for the 2.25 donor bits, does it matter if these are the common imperial ones (thinking the head here mainly) or the rarer late metric items? I'm guessing if I use the correct fasteners then it doesn't matter but would welcome confirmation. Thank you very much.
  9. PS: for interest, if I did add 4.1 diffs to the equation then taking the above setup (Defender TD5 R380 PLUS V8 5TH GEAR + 1967-onwards series transfer + 4.7 diffs + 30.7" tyres (235/85/R16s)) but swapping the diffs to 4.1... would give me very similar gearing to a late, manual NAS D90. Have to do a bit of research on availability of 4.1 diff parts. NAS Defender 90 - R380 Defender TD5 R380 PLUS V8 5TH GEAR + 1967-onwards series transfer + 4.1 diffs + 30.7" tyres (235/85/R16s)
  10. Thanks all very much indeed! Think I'm sorted now and thought I'd update this thread with the conclusions. You were quite right - there's not a lot in real-orld terms between the TDi/5 and V8 boxes when you run the numbers. Basically it turns out that, when run through a Series transfer and standard series 4.7 diffs, a TD5 defender box can give almost identical ratios as a standard SIII box, and the same 5th as series 4th+OD. If you throw in 4.1 diffs and the optional V8 5th gear (offered as an option by the Ashcrofts and the like) then you get close to factory defender V8 gearing too. The defender TD5 R380 box is commonly available - and is compatible with the stumpy pinion/bellhousing - and comes in suffix K (bigger bearings) and suffix L (bigger bearings and shot peined components) flavours which is massive bonus. (he says… hopefully I've got the following right) Responding to the above posts: Fridge - yep, regardless of whether I stick with the 4.6 or switch back to the 3.5 I'll be keeping a skinny GEMS front cover (coilpack either way for waterproofing). The timing case I have is actually one from a disco II which points the oil filter forward 45-degrees the same as a RRC and makes for a better take-off for the remote oil filter (P38 is points straight down out of the side of the timing case). Bolt-on with the 4.6, or a bit of work on the crank for fitting the shallow timing case if I stick with 3.5, but no great issues there. That photo is incredibly useful - it shows the clearance to be actually better than I thought it would be as I'd like to stick with an engine fan and like you, my rad will sit on the crossmember, so should be bags of space. Also your comments on the clutch have calmed my nerves a bit re: strength and it is no longer a factor in deciding between the two engines (just comes down to heart vs. head - or carbs + MJ vs MS). The aim is to build a Series V8 conversion of old, but with a bombproof alternative to the 4-speed + overdrive. Had a really good chat with a potential gearbox builder today and have come up with a formula, turns out a standard Defender TD5 box is almost bang on the money. Here's the comparison: Defender TD5 R380 + 1967-onwards series transfer + 4.7 diffs + 30.7" tyres (235/85/R16s). For comparison, in a traditional conversion - Series III gearbox and transfer box + Fairey Overdrive + 4.7 diffs + 30.7" tyres (235/85/R16s). You'll see that on the TD5 combo 1st is very slightly lower than the SIII box (but nowhere near as low as the SIII one ton) - no bad thing when pulling away with a trailer and 1st low will be great crawler. I rarely use 1st in a standard SWB Series anyway as it a bit low for road use. 2nd and 3rd are virtually identical. 4th is identical (1:1) and 5th is almost identical to a SIII in overdrive top. Now the R380, being a 5-speed offers a bit more flexibility as during the recon the 5th gear can be changed to an even higher unit (V8 spec) for more relaxed cruising, this gives the best of both worlds - slightly lower 1st and slightly higher 5th, but still balanced nicely across the range. Defender TD5 R380 PLUS V8 5TH GEAR + 1967-onwards series transfer + 4.7 diffs + 30.7" tyres (235/85/R16s). This is the setup I'm going for. Rather than try for super-high gearing in 5th to make it cruise like a Disco, if I stick with the above it should give a nice vehicle to drive - with very similar (but fractionally more usable) ratios as a traditional Series V8 conversion. Also a bit easier/cheaper as I only need to source one more component - a Def TD5 Suffix L mainbox. I already have everything else. Thanks again everyone - massively appreciated.
  11. R380 V8 gearbox suffixes?

    Hi folks. Does anyone know if the V8 R380 in disco/disco II was made in suffix L, and if so what year it was introduced? Obviously the TD5 box was made in an L but for a V8, the latest I've seen on the 2nd hand market is suffix K. thank you.
  12. Thanks very much for the detailed reply FF. re: your queries: 1: I have a 4.6 already which was my original 1st choice nice find as the seller included an int. serp timing cover . I've also given some thought to swapping it for a 3.5 - looks nice on original carbs and definitely won't stress the 9.5" clutch (your points on the clutch noted). 2: clutch - I've heard of 9.5" clutches (which I'm limited to due to the stumpy R380) starting to slip on higher torque motors. LR always fitted their V8s with 10.5" clutches. Are your 4.6s on 4-cylinder gearboxes or ones with V8 bell housings? 3: Its an all-rounder. Some off road work, mainly on road. I've had both D90s and Discos in the past and note they have slightly different gearing - for this application one that drives like a disco would be ideal (slightly higher ratio). I don't yet have an R380 mainbox so options are 4-cyl 300TDi/TD5 or V8 Disco (assuming the stumpy input pinion I have is compatible). 4: useful to know re: the diffs. I'm leaning towards 4.7s with the 5th gear on the R380 taking the place of a Fairey OD on the original box. I don't need to improve low-speed crawling, but not willing to sacrifice it too much in exchange for higher cruising. With 3.54s this gives 2209RPM@70mph - possibly a bit low and with 4.7s, 2933rpm which is possibly a bit high. 5: regardless of which R380 I go for, I'll definitely be having the V8 5th (ashcrofts can include it on any build). Tyres will almost certainly be 235/85R16s. aah decisions, decisions - last thing to buy is the mainbox.
  13. Does anyone know if the Stumpy R380 input pinion (suffix K/L, 22 spline) is compatible with the Discovery V8 R380 gear set? Have a stumpy R380 conversion kit and looking to build a mainbox with correct V8 ratios - obvious starting point is a disco v8 R380. Can either convert the Disco gearshift to Defender with a shifter adaptor or strip the whole thing and reassemble into a scrap defender TD5 R380 casing. Also does anyone know if they built the disco V8 R380 in suffix L, or did it stop at Suffix K? (guessing a Disco II 4.0 manual would have the strongest V8 r380 but not sure of the suffix). Thanks.
  14. I'm always asking folk for measurements. Happen to have a stumpy R380 bellhousing and a Philips V8 adaptor plate to hand so thought I'd post the measurements in case they're of any use to anyone: From gearbox mounting face to engine mounting face it is exactly 15.8cm (6.25 inches). Interestingly I understand that the short car-type LT77 V8 bellhousing is 7.25 inches. As the R380 mainbox is 1 inch longer than the LT77 then the two gearboxes (LT77 + short car bellhousing and stumpy R380 plus Philips adaptor) are exactly the same length and both share a 9.5inch clutch. For info the Phillips plate fits perfectly onto the stumpy bell housing. The Stumpy bell housing has one hole less than a series bell housing (over the aperture for the clutch fork) - you could drill it through or do without like Land Rover did. Thats why the plate is canted-up t the back. may be of interest to owners of other classic cars.
  15. PS Daan - your truck was actually the inspiration for the wheels. I always have one-ton rims on my builds, so I bought 6.5J 130 wheels. But for safety I really wanted tubeless (have run tubes in tubeless tyres in the past and never felt great about it). I'll be running BFG Muds (closes thing I can find with a decent speed rating but with high shoulders like factory cross plies). After reading about the wheels on your hybrid I contacted a company down south who are going to band a set of late defender 5.5j tubeless steels to replicate my 130s but tubeless. Cost is amazing (well, free), I bought my rims cheap so the profit from the resale value is more than enough to buy and modify the defender rims.
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