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twodoorgaz

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About twodoorgaz

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  1. Thanks guys. This is really useful. Can I try and shovel another question into the thread, re: 90xd axles? I’ve just picked up James Taylor’s book to give me a bit of research into the model and it talks about these vehicles having thicker axle casings, stronger halfshafts and 4-pin diffs. It doesn’t specify 90/110/130. Do we know if the 90” axles are indeed stronger than their civillian counterparts... or is it simply the long wheelbase models that got the all singing p38/uprated rear axle with the reinforcing rib welded to it?
  2. Hi folks. The search is on. i did look at a civillian CSW today. 2010 and immaculate but a bit too rusty underneath for me. So off to view the wolf’s next week. could I ask another question? Subject to removing the roll hoops is it possible to fit standard civillian roof choices to a Wolf (hardtop or truck cab)? just checking to see if the sides aren’t a different profile or anything. Not a fan of the large fibreglass offering: unless they’re worth anything on the open market if I take it and resell to offset the cost of an alternative.
  3. Wow! Well - that’s decision made - Wolf it is. I’ll head down to Nottingham via Doncaster and that should let me hit two of the big sites for a look around: as soon as they reopen that is.
  4. Thanks guys - Gluv: now that might be a game changer: if the Wolf’s has dinitrol from new that opens up a new world of options. do you know if it was in all the cavities (bulkhead, door and bonnet frames) or just the chassis? Was an outside treatment used too or just sprayed internally?
  5. Hi everyone. My first post in the military section. The majority of my past cars have been Series IIAs, IIIs and 300TDi Discos. For the first time, I’m looking to buy a Defender. I’m guessing at a spend of around £12k (can go up a bit if I need to) and I’m specifically looking for an ex-army/RAF/services vehicle. I’d be looking to take delivery in late June/start of July (subject to lockdown). I’d be looking for one that has either seen light use (eg: the yellow ground crew ex RAF ones) or one that had been through a cherry picked refurb programme (like REMUS). I’d be looking for a late TDi or TD5 and would consider a 90 or 110 (in the case of the latter it would need to be either a station wagon or a utility that still has its rear bulkhead for a truck cab) the single most important thing to me is rust: chassis and bulkhead. I’m really looking for a vehicle that I can clean, professionally rust proof and cost the underbody... and then call it done from a structural perspective. That and the knowledge of the quality of parts used in past maintenance is the main reason that I’m not considering a civilian model. could I ask a few queries? 1) which of the refurb programmes are worth looking out for? (REMUS, TITHONUS, etc) any guidance on what was included in each would be very helpful. 2) are there vehicles from a particular branch that are known to have seen easier lives/better maintenance/lower miles? 3) who are the main suppliers these days - I’ve seen L Jackson &co, ex-mod.co.uk, witham specialist vehicles And Blanchard - are there any worth avoiding/any I've missed? I’ve read their ads for years but never actually been to their premises - I live in Manchester so some aren’t too far away. 4) does my price bracket need to go up or down a bit? any help would be massively appreciated, thank you.
  6. Guys - thank you very much. Think I’m all set to start cracking on with getting the last of the bits
  7. Thanks guys - this is incredibly useful. So, having had a quick scan through the various parts books my plan would be: pedal box: SIII (got) servo: SIII pn STC1816 (got) master cylinder: early Ninety pn NRC9529 (need) G-valve (stops rear brakes locking): early Ninety pn NRC8215 - with correct angled bracket (need) calipers: early Ninety pn RTc3168/9 (got) discs: early ninety, non vented pn FRC7329 (got but will replace) rear wheel Cylinders: early ninety pn RTc3168/9 (got bit will replace) rear backplates: early ninety pn RTc3166/7 (got) rear shoes: RTC3171 (got but will replace) Cuprinickel pipes, tees, clips, brackets, mud shields, switches, etc will all be new and generic. Plus the Heystee swivel kit and hubs. So, everything is from the exact same model year of Land Rover Ninety, except for the servo and pedal box which will be from a late SIII- does this sound about right to give a factory-feel pedal?
  8. Thank you, but think that Terri-Anne has it all covered on her website (power brakes for series Land Rover) - the servo can, just about be made to fit by changing the forks, but it looks a bit odd (this one is intended to be a bit stealth). pending no big changes in opinion, I think that the above is the reassurance I needed to stick with the factory servo and the 90 master cylinder coupled with the correct 90 calipers/rear cylinders and the various valves etc. now just need to visit the vault of, ever more valuable spare parts I have, to pick out the bits to sell to cover the Heystee kit. thank you!
  9. Hi folks. Hoping someone can educate me a bit here. I’m about to place my next order with Heystee for a disc brake swivel kit for the front of a SWB series Land Rover - this time for my father’s vehicle. The series Land Rover in question is a later SIII, fitted as standard with a servo assisted pedal box. The vehicle is in the middle of a chassis swap And has been neglected for decades, so I’m planning to renew the brake system wholesale. I’ve already bought a set of front calipers and backplates from a 200TDI ninety. These use the same 10” rear drums, but have slightly different rear cylinders - so, in order to keep a near stock brake setup - I’ll be using the same discs/calipers/master cylinder/wheel cylinder and shoes/drums as a factory 200TDI defender - all new or recon. No issues there. but the servo itself is causing some confusion. the factory SIII used a 6” servo. The factory 200TDi 90 used an 8” servo. You can get a defender pedal box to fit, but we’re not keen on it as it needs a bit of a mod and doesn’t have the right look. that leaves two options - using the factory 6” servo with the complete 200TDI 90 brake setup... or doing the same thing, except splashing out for one of Heystee’s custom 8” servos that fit onto the series pedal box. the issue with the latter is cost (they’re 3-4x the price of a standard LR servo and also spares availability - if I ever need to replace it, then it leaves me reliant on one manufacturer - something I’m not keen on. so my question is: does the servo size have any impact on the braking performance/functionality or just in the pedal effort? If it’s just effort and if the pedal will still feel “right” then I’ll stick with stock and save our money. i notice that North America Overland - one of the people that fit these kits, seem to use standard servos with a “late SIII/early Ninety” master cylinder. Heystee push you towards vented discs, which I don’t need. could anyone advise? Thank you.
  10. Perfect! Thank you very much for the info.
  11. Hi folks. hoping you can help. Does anyone happen to know the diaphragm size or boost ratio of an early (1970) Range Rover brake servo? For example, a Series servo (drums) is 6”, a pre 1994 Defender (Disc/Drums) is 9” and a post 1994 Defender (discs all round) is 11”. However I’ve never seen the same size guide for a RR, I’m even struggling with finding a PDF copy of the parts catalogue to get the part number. thank you!
  12. Sure - please see attached. Also there’s a technical bulletin that mentions the Powr-Lok here On the SII club website
  13. According to James Taylor's wonderful book Land Rover Series II/IIA Specification Guide, Land Rover offered a Powr-Lok limited slip differential for the rear axle between June 1965 and August 1969 with the 242 and 252-prefix axles. This was apparently withdrawn from the options list due to being troublesome in service.I'm also aware that this axle was standard fitment on the NADA 2.6 109 IIAs due to concerns about the strength of the, then Rover, rear diffs when coupled with the heavy SW body and the more-powerful Weslake variant of the engine.Again, I've read somewhere that the 4x2 SIIAs supplied to the (Dutch?/Belgian?) armies also used the Powr-Lok diff
  14. Richard - how did you find the rebuild? I’ve got the kit on order for my DTML Weber and just seeing if there were any pitfalls to watch for. Thanks.
  15. Thanks guys - I'll have a look at the pro-vent. Sounds interesting. Curious thought re: the air filter, though I'm happy to empty a separate catch tank once in a while (helps me keep track)
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