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About twodoorgaz

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  1. Perfect! Thank you very much for the info.
  2. Hi folks. hoping you can help. Does anyone happen to know the diaphragm size or boost ratio of an early (1970) Range Rover brake servo? For example, a Series servo (drums) is 6”, a pre 1994 Defender (Disc/Drums) is 9” and a post 1994 Defender (discs all round) is 11”. However I’ve never seen the same size guide for a RR, I’m even struggling with finding a PDF copy of the parts catalogue to get the part number. thank you!
  3. Sure - please see attached. Also there’s a technical bulletin that mentions the Powr-Lok here On the SII club website
  4. According to James Taylor's wonderful book Land Rover Series II/IIA Specification Guide, Land Rover offered a Powr-Lok limited slip differential for the rear axle between June 1965 and August 1969 with the 242 and 252-prefix axles. This was apparently withdrawn from the options list due to being troublesome in service.I'm also aware that this axle was standard fitment on the NADA 2.6 109 IIAs due to concerns about the strength of the, then Rover, rear diffs when coupled with the heavy SW body and the more-powerful Weslake variant of the engine.Again, I've read somewhere that the 4x2 SIIAs supplied to the (Dutch?/Belgian?) armies also used the Powr-Lok diff
  5. Richard - how did you find the rebuild? I’ve got the kit on order for my DTML Weber and just seeing if there were any pitfalls to watch for. Thanks.
  6. Thanks guys - I'll have a look at the pro-vent. Sounds interesting. Curious thought re: the air filter, though I'm happy to empty a separate catch tank once in a while (helps me keep track)
  7. Thank you - happy to do so, but is it a lot more work in moving to multi-port? From my perspective, I'd just be putting my 2.5 petrol manifold in a box with the jeep donor and sending it off to be modified. It would come back with all four bungs welded in, a bung for the manifold temperature sensor and an alteration to the top to change from the two-barrel Webber setup to a single port for the throttle body. Yes, costly, but not much effort. The parts should all be generic bosch, with the exception of the throttle body itself - chosen as it seems to be a nice match to the 2.5 LR engine, its designed for a 4x4 and in terms of size and shape its not a million miles away from the carb it replaces. But... if installing and setting up MS to cope with the multi-port injection is really more hassle then I would gladly take your advice if I could identify a suitable downdraft throttle body to move to TBI. (as you an see I'm still learning here)
  8. I'm just looking for a suitable jeep manifold at the moment, but when I have it I'll post pics so we can compare side by side and make a bit of a plan. Any feedback at this stage would be most welcome. Does anyone have any recommendations for firms that could do the mods to the manifold for me (manufacture fuel rail, weld in injector bungs and MAP sensor recess, etc) ? (I can't ally-weld) A couple of basic questions if I may: I'm working on the assumption that fuel injection replaces the carb by delivering exactly the right amount of air and fuel needed by the engine at any point regardless of environmental conditions. Q: But does it actually increase peak power and torque? If so, does anyone fancy hazarding a guess as to what it would do to an otherwise standard 17H engine? (83BHP@4000rpm / 133lbft@2000rpm - approx 24MPG in an 88" SIIA) Q: from others who have done MS installs, any idea what sort of efficiency improvements I might see? Q: Also, am I right in thinking that a MS install would not add any additional stresses or strains to the engine? Q: Finally - I'm also assuming that the intake would not see any great stress and so welding the aluminium casting wouldn't cause any risk of failure - sound sensible? I do have a second thread running about forced induction on this engine - which may or may no be practical, but if it is it would still necessitate the MS install.
  9. Now, my understanding is that I need the intake manifold to be changed to carry a fuel rail with 4x injector pots and to have a number of additional ports added for sensors etc - plus I need to get a throttle body attached to the top. My other love is Jeeps, and the venerable old AMC 2.5 petrol engine is a favourite of mine - this was used from 1984 to 2002 (84-88 CJ-7 and Cherokee XJ, 87-2002 in YJ and TJ wranglers and the XJ Cherokee). The old engine has a lot of similarities to our LR engine, having been designed for a truck in the first instance (rather than pinched from a car). From 84-86 it had a single barrel carb (105hp/132 lbft), from 86-91 it had TBI (117hp/135lbft) and from 92-02 it had MPI (130hp/149lbft). The intake manifold actually looks quite similar to a LR setup and once my manifold is altered, the TB should sit nicely where the carb would have been. My intention is to have my manifold modified to take all the jeep components (fuel rail, sensors, injectors, etc) as these seem entirely appropriate for the application and parts availability is superb. Attached is a photo of a jeep intake.
  10. Right. I'd been avoiding going MS for a long time, but I just can't get away from how practical it will be. On my last build I had the carb and distributor built for me (Dizzy Doctor and Carb Exchange) and still had problems with them - the same cost should cover the MS install on this build. I'm a simple lad, so before I start getting into the nitty gritty of electronics, I thought I'd start with something I understand - the manifold. The engine is a 17H 2.5 petrol (dressed-up as a 2.25 5MB) and I have a spare intake manifold, so I thought I'd start by getting that modified to take the hardware. Here's the pics of my existing manifolds:
  11. Early ideas: As I'm not married to the block I have (and its quite valuable), the temptation is to go directly to a 2/300 TDI block which had already had the benefit of LR's learnings from the 19J issues (resulting in cylinder block cracking and crankshaft bearing failures until a redesign of the block and crank bearings in 1988). Q: can a turbo diesel block be changed to petrol spec as I understand that there were differences on oil pathways? The TDI crank could be retained. I would guess that I could then use all the same ancillaries from the SIII I had planned to use (sump, timing cover, bracketed etc) Head - I have a choice of 7:1, 8:1 (standard) or 9:1 (ACR). Q: Would forced induction place additional stresses on the head, or are they all much of a muchness? Pistons - no idea. Surely these are going to need a different shape. It would be phenomenal if the TDI ones turned out to be ideal for this as I could use a complete TDI bottom end. But the 2.5 petrol ones were specific to this unit, so doubt I'd get that lucky.
  12. Reply 2-of-2 "other parts in the eBay parts bin and works available" So, lets look at what we have access to via eBay: From any 2.5 diesel Forged crank (its the same part number as the 17H petrol, but I'm told that from the factory the petrol ones were cast not forged) From 19J Turbo Diesels: Inlet and exhaust manifold Garrett T2 Turbo Block - which I think is similar to the 17H but strengthened Pistons/Rods From a 200 or 300TDI Block - could be very interesting if I could use a diesel block as long as it was a direct fit with the correct oil ways etc Inlet and exhaust manifold (300TDI only - I'm not going to try and track-down a 200TDI defender one) Garrett T25 Turbo Pistons/Rods From a Mini Cooper S Eaton M45 Teflon Supercharger. From a Jeep Wrangler 2.5 Inlet manifold with a nice throttle body or multi-pint injection. If I go MJ, the plan would be to have the LR manifold modified to take Jeep components cos I like them. In terms of additional things: Machining - I have two machine shops lined up and also live quite close to ACR. I'd prefer to just get the machining done and assemble myself to keep the costs down. Balancing - overkill on a low-rev land rover, but I'm doing it anyway as the cost of having all the rotating components balanced is peanuts (<£100). Casting - I play with a bit of aluminium casting, so I can make simple parts and have them machined. I'd struggle with a manifold as it needs cores which I haven't pulled-off yet, but simple castings are easy. MJ/MS - I'll definitely be going MJ, but open to MS too. One further note: it has to retain a chain driven timing setup. Its my one line in the sand as it makes the installation that bit more pretty than pushing the crank pulley and fan noses out.
  13. Reply 1-of-2 "Existing plan and parts" Thanks Guys - it will be a very slow process here, and might end up going nowhere but I'll keep up the thread. If I can't get to a sensible plan for forced induction, I will stick to plan A which is to build it up as a 2.25 5MB-lookalike using the parts as follows: 17H bottom end, including flywheel housing and oil filter (Got) 901-serial SIII (8:1 but imperial) head, timing cover, sump, thermostat, mounts, alternator bracket, etc (Got) Webber 32/34 DMTL carb and inlet/exhaust manifolds (Got) Steve Parker off-the-shelf exhaust system for the 2.5p into a SWB Series (Need) oil bath air filter from a 2.6 6-cyl (slightly higher CFM, but looks stock) (Got) custom cast aluminium plenum to allow standard carb elbow fit vertically to the later carb (to make) Single pulley, part number ERC5349 (Got) Metric starting handle crank dog (Need) Complete cable throttle assembly from a Stage 1 V8 (Got) Standard 90/110 2.5 petrol throttle cable (Got) The above plan is in the bag. But as I have a drivetrain that will comfortably handle anything a 2.5 petrol can throw at it - even with forced induction. So I can focus exclusively on the engine. I've built a fair few Series Land Rovers now, but have always outsourced the engine build. For this project, building the engine myself is the part I am most looking forward to - a new engine crane, numerous measuring tools and Rick Voegelin's rather wonderful book on Engine Blueprinting is standing by. So, going through my existing engine parts in the garage, I already have: 17H block with flywheel, flywheel housing and oil filter housing. It currently has a double crank pulley and a bracket on the front, which I think is a power steering pump bracket. A 17H single groove crank pulley, part number ERC5349 A 17H inlet/exhaust manifold with heat shield Two Webber 32/34 DMTL carbs - one from a 2.25 and one from a 2.5 Accelerator cable from a '901' Series III petrol engine... Sump 8:1 head (will be recon'd to 9:1, U/L and 17H spec valves) Rocker cover Side fill oil tube and baffle Rocker cover Dipstick (I can straighten and re-use the metric dipstick tube from the 17H) Timing cover Water pump Fan and pulley Thermostat housing Engine mounts Rocker assembly, timing assembly and a big heap of fasteners An inlet/exhaust manifold and Zenith 36IV carb (won't be using this) from a 2.6 6-cyl series oil bath air filter (will be fitted into a dropped battery tray from a 4-cyl). from a 2.6 6-cyl Santana A 38IV Zenith Carb (was planning on using this but couldn't get a set of manifolds that would suit the 2.5 petrol) from a 3.5 Stage 1 V8 Complete cable throttle assembly
  14. Thanks guys - now that the acid-test-"am I way off-base?"-question has been asked, I'll get on with my homework to see how viable it is.
  15. Hi folks. This has been touched on a while ago - in this thread for one. I'm awaiting my house purchase to go through, wherein I'll get a big garage and will finally be able to start my build. I have virtually all the parts I need to build my hybrid drivetrain 2.5 17H Petrol block with a mixture of series and metric ancillaries to dress it up to look like a 2.25 Stumpy R380 (050A ratios 1st-4th and a TD5 5th gear) Series Transfer box (ashcroft kit) A nice strong 4.7 diff from MSV8 (yet to get) 24spline rear shafts Heystee front discs Stage 1 stub axles, CVs and shafts at the front Now the above drivetrain will handle plenty more power than even a tuned 17H will make. And I keep looking at the turbo parts from a 19J or TDI and thinking... why not? A turbo'd petrol would surely have a far, far lower compression ratio than a similar diesel (19/20:1) so I can't help but feel that a turbo'd 5MB petrol could be a very tough little unit - as I'm building the engine from the parts I've sourced (once machined) I could also easily swap out some more bits to get the pick of the LR 4-pot crop. If a diesel intake manifold could be used then surely it would be a nut and bolt swap. Not looking to set the world alight, but anything north of 100BHP feels spritely in a Series and I think that even a stock build could reach 120+BHP relatively easily without the pitfalls of the 19J. Yes I could fit a V8, TD or TDI but this is more about having a nice little LR project. Any input would be very welcome.
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