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Everything posted by twodoorgaz

  1. Struggling to get my head around whether changing wheel offset helps or hinders when it comes to tyre clearance. We have 265/75/R16 tyres on boost rims on our 90 currently which obviously clear fine, being a LR standard fitment on some of the older and NAS models. I’ve been saving for a set of the 8x16 rims from Nakatanenga which are ET0 - so the outside wall of the tyre would be pushed outboard by 33mm (boost offset is 33mm, the 8x16s are 0mm). I've heard of people having issues with larger tyres touching the rear lip of the wheel arch spats at full compression off road - usually with the larger diameter’d but narrower 255/85s. I just can’t understand whether the offset (similar to fitting a set of wheel spacers) would make tyre rub concerns better or worse. any pointers in understanding this?
  2. Hi folks. I'm clueless with this one, so any help would be very welcome. For his birthday, my Dad wants a simple-to-use diagnostic tool. He has an immaculate 1999/2000 P38 4.6 vogue... and he also has a 51 plate transit-based camper. Can anyone suggest a tool that could plug into primarily the Range Rover, but ideally with connectors available to use on the transit too? Looking in the region of £100, so Hawkeyes and Nanocoms are our unfortunately and neitherr would work with the transit. an icarsoft might work if I can understand their naming connvention. Ideal would be full reading and resetting, but will take what I can find, Thank you.
  3. That is superb, thank you very much for that. Was about to buy a couple of genuine singles to physically measure up and then remembered that we have the internet now
  4. @uninformed You asked at the top of the thread about the thickness of the HD steel rims as fitted to pre-TDi defender 130s (127s). I have a set of genuine ANR1534 6.5J rims off such a vehicle in the storage unit. If you let me know what you want measured I'll take some verniers and will do it next time I'm up there. Could I ask a favour? Looking back through your photos, I think you have access to a genuine FRC6137 (39mm stud), a genuine factory FRC6137 (46mm stud) and a genuine factory FRC7577 (56mm stud). Is there any chance you could post a photo of the three of them together? I'd be really keen to know the measurement from the back of the head (or end of the taper - i.e. the bit that jams up tight on the back of the hub) to the start of the thread on the base of the stud. Its that gap I'm worried about in fitting my genuine FRC6137s to my Puma studs - I don't want to find that the steel wheelnuts bottom out on the thread before they reach full torque on the Wolf rims.
  5. Thank you - I had thought of just using tapped holes in the spreader plate (an M14 full nut is 11mm thk vs the plate at 12mm), but have always been told that tapped holes are weaker than rolled threads in a true 8.8 (or 10.9) nut. In need of a bit of education: is there a grade of steel to look for in which a tapped hole would be comparable to a high-tensile nut? I'd even considered thread inserts (Helicoils) or top hat bosses/barrel nuts
  6. ...The only other thing I've considered is adding a tack weld onto the heads of the bolts. That wouldn't stop me having to remove the tank if I ever wanted to take the assembly off, but it would mean I could change the recovery point for another design if the mood struck - as well as being able to tighten the nuts if they ever worked loose - the tank guard would prevent access, as would the tank itself as I couldn't get an Allen key into the gap.
  7. Wow - they're going to be great! OP here and think I'm now sorted thanks to your advice. Had a measure up and there seems to be 22mm of clearance between the tank and the rear crossmember. With even a very thin spreader plate and a normal nut (whether M12, M14 or 1/2"UNF) this would leave virtually no gap before the tank - and those bits closest to the tank (the nut and tip of the bolt) would be pointy: not a nice thought in the event of a rear end collision and I'd like to leave a good amount (10mm) of space so that the tank can wobble without fretting against the bolts.. So, think I've decided on working from the inside out (obviously the tank'll be out when the chassis is being done) - that'll give me a bit more clearance (bolt heads are narrower than nuts, made better as it allows me to countersink them) and will give me a closer, but perfectly flat surface behind the tank, which feels like a safer option. 1) Cut access hole into crossmember and remove 4x upper M12 captive nuts, replace access flap with butt-welded steel, linish flat. 2) fit thick-walled crush tube behind the four holes of the crossmember (ID 15mm, 3mm wall - or nearest equivalent. Have a lathe so can make to suit) - coloured red on sketch. Also check all crossmember to chassis welds - add welds if any areas missed at the factory. 3) Galvanise 4) Order large spreader plate - most likely 10 or 12mm (way OTT, but gives lots of meat under every bit of the 7mm countersunk bolt head), drill 4x countersunk holes. 5) fit plate (coloured yellow on sketch) using 4x grade 8.8 countersunk M14 or 1/2UNF bolts (coloured blue on sketch) - length TBC 6) on rear, attach recovery point (design TBC, either a loop, swivel or pintle) with 4x nyloc grade 8.8 acorn/dome nuts (found these already - coloured green on sketch). Job done. Its actually not that much effort, I can have the plate made at work and the garage will be fitting the tubes - the only downside is its a tank-out job if I ever want to change it, but I'm already in that position with the jate rings I have currently (these are hard to fit on a PUMA and even with the modified install sit very close to the tank - just a couple of mm at the closest point, not happy with these).. It'll never be able to do crazy winch challenge snatch recoveries but even though the crossmember is apparently made from thinner steel when compared to a 300TDI I suspect the strength in a recovery situation won't be too far off, what with the large overly-thick spreader plate and crush tubes (not sure if a 300TDi had them). And that was good enough for the Camel Trophy. Still making my mind up on the recovery point - just have to make sure the acorn nuts don't interfere or cause a snag hazard, but suppose that's only an issue if using a pintle like I've shown in the sketch where the rope could be in contact with them behind the pin, a recovery loop on a backplate wouldn't have that issue. And no, I'm not doing any form of competition. What do you think - seem like a sensible approach?
  8. Ha ha - its because I spend too much time over on the S2Club forum obsessing over originality on my S2As and viewing my 90 and a future collectors piece. Yeah - you're right. In the highly unlikely event I ever did want to fit 5.5j rims/750s then I could always pull the hubs and fit the old studs.
  9. My god - just when it seemed so simple! interestingly your shiny aftermarket one is threaded much closer to the base of the stud (the gap between the splines and start of the thread is less). That’s something I’m not 100% convinced with on the genuine ones I bought as going from your earlier pic of the stud in the rim - while it’ll be fine for thick wolf rims, I’m concerned about the bare section of shank causing problems if I ever switched back to 5.5j rims (really do want a universal stud if possible).
  10. Just got the box of genuine studs - end to end is 44.5mm (measured with a tape, not calipers)
  11. Thanks Bowie! I had found the one on RetroAnaconda's blog, but hadn't found the one on the forum.
  12. Wow - could it be that simple? I won't be using it for any form of competition. Unfortunately its in that awkward zone of use - whereby its a shiny, very well cared for 90 used for daily commuting that very occasionally would need need a heavy recovery from the rear (weekend safaris, morocco, etc.) Aiming for 2 or 3 major trips each year starting post COVID and I'll be travelling with people I don't know - so there's always a chance that someone will be a bit heavy-handed in a towed recovery. It if was more of a rough truck I'd be less bothered as I'd just fix it if anything moved/bent. So, if on earlier models it was perfectly acceptable to attach a NATO hitch or Dixon Bate 5T pin directly to the rear crossmember (thinking Camel 110s here) - then a sufficient spreader plate coupled with some thick walled crush tubes (if required as per Bowie's point) and drilled out threads would effectively give me a similar effect? I'm conscious that the crossmember is made of thinner steel and that the bolt holes - at least in the upper mounts are of a smaller diameter than the lowers, which I'd like to rectify. I'm having the work done for me on this one (no time or space with the 2x 2As I have on the go at home). So... if I buy a recovery point, suitable nuts & bolts that will clear the tank and have a spreader plate laser cut then the only instructions I have to give to the garage (its an amazing place - that do old school, high quality work, the welding and fabrication they've done for me previously has been top notch) are as follows: 1) drill out captive threads 2) confirm that there's suitable crush tubes in situ, if not then break into crossmember and install 4x Xmm ID tubes (I'll supply the tube - have some thick walled stuff in stock). 3) weld-up, blast and paint. 4) on reassembly (before the tank is fitted) fit new recovery point with 5mm+ spreader plate on the back Thinking about something like this - hoping the base is wide enough that a front spreader wouldn't be needed. That changes things dramatically and would cost a lot less than the unnecessary NAS step I was planning to fit. Thanks for your help on this guys - Uninformed - that looks like a hell of a thing! Trying to imagine how it'll fit. Dr Strangelove - I might give you a shout if that's OK when I've measured up and its time to get the DXF file: I've just got Fusion360 for exactly this sort of thing but have never used it before.
  13. Hi folks - after a bit of help. In a few weeks my puma 90 is booked in the body removed in order to dismantle, blast & paint the chassis and underbody components prior to reassembly - a mini restoration. The chassis is completely solid, so this is just preventative and will deal with the annoying surface corrosion. However, the one thing that winds me up is the lack of a sensible recovery point on the rear crossmember - I love the look of a simple recovery eye bolted on, but am aware of how flimsy these late chassis are so would never do it. Up to now I've got by with a pair of Jate rings (fitted while the tank was out) but they're a pain to access. There are bolt on options (a NAS rear step or a receiver hitch) but wondered if there was a simple fabrication mod that could be made to address the issue while the chassis is seperate. Maybe some bracketry that passes through the crossmember or some sort of sleeve attached to the chassis rails secured through a (new) crush tube on each side, something like that? I've even considered a custom made version of this to wrap around the crossmember attaching to each chassis rail. Also aware of the spereader plates that are commonly used and have considered this - maybe drilling out the threaded nuts in the crossmember so fasters can pass straight though - again, thick crush tubes could be added. any other ideas short of going the whole hog and fitting a dixon fabs crossmember?
  14. They're some incredibly helpful posts there - thanks for sharing. So we know a 300TDi hub with the earlier FRC6137 studs are a perfect fit for wolf rims. Mine is a 2010 2.4 TDCI 90 - so the X-factor is whether the hubs are a similar thickness to a 300TDI set. My studs are on their way, so guess the proof of the pudding is in fitting them. Just checked now I'm back at my desk and I got mine (Genuine LR) from PA Blanchard for 95p + P&P/VAT : here's the link. They also sell pattern ones for 25p each.
  15. Not yet - I've already bought the rims but they're at my parents place so can't try them yet. Of course - I left the order details at work but will post them once I'm back at my desk.
  16. ha - yep, fair point. Probably not an area to skimp on. Update: Just ordered a set of 20 genuine FRC6137s for £30 delivered. Got them to confirm while I was on the phone that they are indeed 45mm long (total length). All being well, my existing studs will be 39mm which will justify the swap and also hoping that if used with Alloy wheels that the new studs won't be too long. I really want the ability to be able to swap between my boost alloys and Wolf rims.
  17. Wow - thank you for so many responses. So by the sounds of it, there already exists a perfect length stud - the 45mm version (possibly FRC6137 but to be confirmed given the discrepancies listed above). Would be keen to ID the slightly narrower wheel nut too, just to guarantee it all fits. Think I'm at the point where I need to start ordering some samples and measuring up (as well as confirming the length of my current studs on my 2010 90 - 39 or 45mm). Edit: Going off the image for the genuine FRC6137s on the Britcar website, they are indeed 45mm long (total length). They also have an OEM one via Britpart for £0.42 ea (£8.40 a set!). https://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/86201/371/wheel_stud_knock_through_defender_up_to_vin_ka
  18. Hi everyone. The old Wolf rim/longer vs standard stud topic has been covered a lot and I think I've read the bulk of the threads on this. Gist is, on standard wheel studs there isn't quite enough thread to fill the nut but its OK as LR build them that way (and spec a larger torque figure to compensate). You can fit FRC7577 (60mm) studs but they're really very long (ben hur) and you couldn't switch back to alloy wheels as the capped nuts would bottom out before the wheel is tight. But if you aren't happy with the look of the nuts on standard studs when fitting wolf wheels (like myself), then what would be the ideal length? What length would allow full thread engagement when fitting wolfs but would still allow you to fit alloy wheels? I have a 2010 Puma 90 (so discs all round) and am in this predicament - it came with boost alloys from the factory and I have a set of genuine wolf rims ready to go on. The car is about to have some axle work done and it wouldn't be a great effort to change the studs hat the same time (have a press). I also have access to a machine shop - so shortening a set of FRC7577 (60mm) studs wouldn't be a great issue (and the price of them has come down significantly). But what length to go to? My ideal would be to have studs that when fitted with wolf rims and torqued to a sensible level (not the massive 170 that LR suggest) that around 1-1.5 thread is left exposed and I'm hoping that that would be short enough to still allow me to switch back to the Boost alloys if the mood strikes. Does anyone have any accurate measurements for how much longer the standard 39mm studs would need to be to allow this? Happy to share findings. With stock being 39mm, I'm guessing around 44mm would be perfect for the rims - would just need to do some experiments to make sure the alloy wheel nuts would still work without bottoming out. Any help on this OCD mini-project would be very welcome.
  19. Thanks Jon. That’s reassuring to hear it’s been done. In the U.K. I’ve bought a few Land Rovers “blind” just from photos and have sent transporters to collect so hopefully a similar approach would be great. the house purchase is taking longer than anyone thought so waiting till I’ve got the keys before I start the ball rolling. nonimouse, I’m holding off from contacting your friend until I’m 100% ready to proceed. I’d hate to waste his time if the house purchase was to fall through.
  20. Thank you - I found a few but if I get stuck I might take you up on that. similar to yourself I found that the quotes charge, even from big companies was less than fuel/ferry costs.
  21. Giles, Nonimoise - thank you both very much indeed - that’s really kind of you and I’ll certainly be in touch. The house purchase is going well, assuming no issues then I should have my new workshop in around 11-weeks. There is a lovely shed on the back that is perfect for storing the next project. As soon as we have exchanged contracts I’ll be ready to pull the trigger on the Range Rover purchase.
  22. Thank you all - that's really helpful. I had understood that the majority of the late 2-doors had been fitted with the 2.4VM and sold primarily in France. However after looking through the links above there are lots of different models on the market, something I've just learned today - so preference is of course V8, followed by Tdi and then either of the VMs - but I'm not overly fussy. The tricky bit will be finding someone in country who could help me in getting it home. Arranging transport is straightforward, but the ideal would be a local staging-post where I could have the vehicle transported after purchase and while I await the delivery driver from the UK - unless of course I can find one that is reliable enough for the drive back to England. I'm around 12-weeks away from being able to make the purchase (awaiting house completion - bought specifically for the triple garage), so I can't move on it yet but it would be great to find a local enthusiast or specialist that could help. I looked at getting it to Bilbao or Santander then its just a (long) ferry back to the south coast and I have an AA card to get me back from there if anything goes wrong. But the ferry cost is only £100 less than the cost of a transporter bringing it door to door. SO, subject to a good local inspection and a garage to act as a holding agent until the transporter arrives, it may not even be worth me flying out.
  23. perfect. Thank you! That's just what I was looking for, already found a few contenders.
  24. Hi everyone. I'm aware that we have a number of members from mainland Europe and was looking for some advice. I get my new workshop in a few months and I will have space for another project to join my Series and Defender vehicles. I'd like to buy a Euro-spec 2-door range rover classic (late '80s early '90s) - so most likely a 2.4D. Now these do pop up in the UK occasionally, so I'm familiar with the pricing. But if I want to buy from the source, could anyone advise on the best websites to look for vehicles for sale in the south of france and in spain? ebay.fr and ebay.es don't seem to be as popular as they are in the UK, so I'm guessing there are better websites but I'm struggling to identify the good ones. It would be a project vehicle, so I don't need anything perfect - structurally sound with as near complete interior trim as possible. I'll be keeping it factory spec and LHD but will be a lovely thing for driving holidays through Europe. thank you.
  25. Ace - thanks guys. So looks like my A: Indicator | Tail/Brake | Reverse----------&----------Fog | Tail/Brake | Indicator is the winner. That's really reassuring before I start ordering the cappings and paint to do the job. I already have a high-level brake light as standard, so that's one thing off the to-do list.
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