twodoorgaz

Thanks guys – some really good info there. After reading the above and doing a little research the Toyota 1KZT seems to be ideal – the cost mentioned above is a limiting factor but I’ll keep my eyes out. Sorry if the question sounded cryptic – effectively its for a Moab-inspired Jeep-based buggy. Have a great donor – a 2.5TD Cherokee: bombproof transmission (Dana 30 high pinion and Chrysler 8.25” axles and AX-15/NV231 transmission) but the 2.5 TD has a blown head. The engine was always the weak point being the same VM unit fitted in the Range Rover classic. Looking for a sensible replacement hence the wish list of features above. The R-gearbox requirement comes from the donor Jeep and a number of other HD 4x4s sharing the same main gearbox (Jeep/Dodge AX15 5-speed, the Jeep NV3550 5-speed, the Jeep NV1500, the Toyota R150F, R151F & R155F, the 87-92 Toyota Supra Turbo R154, the Isuzu AR5 and the Pontiac Solstice\Saturn Sky\Chevy Colorado\ GMC Canyon MA5 5-speeds) – a unit manufactured by GM/Japanese company Aisin – in the buggy it is an AX-15. Luckily all the gearboxes share the same bellhousing to mainbox bolt pattern so there are a huge range of engines that can be fitted simply by swapping the bellhousing and input shaft plus a few sundries. Toyota isn’t the only alternative, simply my first choice thanks to their reputation for reliability. However after reading the comment above about Isuzu I started doing some reading. The Trooper used the same gearbox (Isuzu called it an AR5) in their 1991-1995 models. These models came with the 3.0L 4JX1 (mechanical injection) and the 3.1L 4JG2 (electrically controlled mechanical injection). Either engine seems to be readily available and the power is bang on the money. However I’m not at all familiar with them and don’t know much about spares availability or rebuilding. Plus reliability is absolutely paramount and some of these are a bit questionable. The 4BD1T however seems to tick all the boxes - iconic. Proven in many 4x4s in (even in the big bad Land Rover Perentie!), relatively efficient, perfect!!! But not sure if it can be fitted to a Trooper AR5 gearbox and, by extension, to a Jeep AX15 gearbox – nor whether it could take the torque. Still looking. Head’s spinning.

Hi folks. I've not got the best of knowledge on Toyota diesels and the internet is full of confusing code numbers with few applications listed - so hoping someone can help. I'm looking for a specific donor engine for my bizarre new project and could do with some advice. I'm really looking for an engine that could be considered a bit of a stalwart - something that has been around for years in the UK in various guises and there is little fear of parts supplies drying up. The engine should be common and relatively inexpensive - with donors in the scrapyard. I'd like an engine that can be rebuild/rebored in the future. The engine should have bomb-proof reliability. The engine MUST originally have been fitted with Toyota's "R Transmission" by Aisin in a RWD or 4x4 layout. The precedent should be set for being fitted into a tough 4x4 by the factory (Hilux, Land Cruiser, etc). It must be a 4-cylinder, V6 or V8 - not 6-cyl. I'm looking for a 2.4-3.0 turbo diesel. Ideally minimal electronics. I almost need a Toyota equivalent of a 300TDI/TD5! Could anyone suggest an appropriate unit? Many thanks.

Right - thank you very much indeed for the above replies - those coupled with a night of research and this is what I've found: Axles - I want strong ones so we're looking at Toyota or Danas. Toyotas are great but are surprisingly hard to come by, tend to be all rusty and command a premium. However the old Jeep Cherokee axles can be found everywhere in great condition and are dirt cheap (£50-£100 each or £500 for a whole car with MOT!) and used a high pinion Dana 30 on the front and a Dana 35 on the back - these units are considered to be really good axles and were original fitment on Jeep Wranglers. The cherokee has coils on the front but these brackets are easily removed and replaced with leaf perches. So - Cherokee axles it is - plus the Cherokee has the same bolt pattern as the wrangler so I should be able to find some inexpensive steel wheels for it. But to be honest I'll probably keep the Cherokee alloys and powder coat them black. Suspension - sticking with leaves, standard Willys sizes standard height - will contact a spring manufacturer in the us once I have a better idea of the sprung/unsprung weight of the car. Transmission - here's the problem area. With an 80" wheelbase (which I really love and is non negotiable) the choices are neglegable - the GM/Ford/Chev 5speeds simply won't fit well. As far as I know no Toyota gearbox/transfer box is short enough to avoid a short rear prop. Yes I could go with a Samuri box but it seems odd to have a bombproof rolling chassis with a comparatively weak gearbox and engine. I could go for a TH350 auto and a Dana 18 transfer box, it would just and so fit. Bombproof but top is still 1:1 so no great benefit on the road. Luckily the Willys MB right up to the Jeep CJ5 all had fantastic 3 and 4 speed gearboxes - all brutally strong (with a few exceptions from the 1980s) and the original Dana 18 transfer box (or slightly later Dana 20) was, like the Great White Shark, born perfect and can be matched to all the other candidates. So it'll be an authentic 80" Jeep gearbox of some sort - plenty of choice so will just keep my eyes on ebay. Downside is that none of the gearboxes have an overdrive gear - top is always 1:1 so cruising speed will be dictated by the diffs ratios (quite a few readily available, lowest is 3.07:1 highest is 4.56:1) and tyre diameter. There was a T5 5-speed fitted in the 80s but it has a horrendous reputation in this application. Engine: Any 4-cyl, V6 or V8 will do just need to match it to the bellhousing. If I buy a complete Cherokee for the axles it'll likely come with a 2.5 VM turbo diesel or a 2.5 petrol which if in good nick would do the job (if it comes with a 4.0 i6 its going in the scrap. I'll sell off the odd bit and will end up with a pair of axles and an engine for peanuts. I do love the little 1.9 VW TDI as suggested above - it'll depend ont he gearbox tho - if I go for a lightweight box then it'll be either the VW or a vitara engine. Steering: P38s are easy to come by but it looks like the PAS box from the £500 Cherokee above isn't a bad unit. Some reports of failure on monster jeeps but should be plenty for this little thing. Chassis: Loads of simplified/strengthened frame plans online - its unbelievably simple compared to a Land Rover chassis. Just going to pick my favorite design - send it to the cutting shop and have the steel stock laser cut. I'll make a chassis table out of MDF and will weld it up. Body - going to copy the Willys jeep tub using a modular spaceframe of 1" box section steel - plenty strong and bends into nice curves if you make a jig, cross braced where necessary - obviously the bulkhead section will be made of beefier stock. Then will sheet over it all with heavy alloy sheet and stainless MGR rivets. Just keeping the simple, classic tub with a folding screen (I have the drawings for this and its easy to make). No doors, no roof (though as the screen and tub'll be to the original dimensions I could use an authentic Willys one) and no cage (initially). Pedal box will be home made - I have a few CAD diagrams of suitable pendulum boxes which'll be lighter and simpler than Land Rover boxes and the bushes will be a lot easier to replace. Master cylinders? That old Cherokee again and they'll match the calipers on the axles. Props - again the old cherokee ones cut down - might need to alter the gearbox end tho - so this'll be a pro job and a balance too. Wiring loom: home made - not bothering with Autosparks this time. May even salvage as much of the wire from the Cherokee loom as possible to save costs. Seating - I'll make a seating position to suit my height - keeping the eyeline in the middle of the windscreen. Beauty of setting my own pedals and Steering column. I'll make a couple of seat squabs like in a Series land rover but, assuming the cherokee has leather - I'll strip that off the rear bench seat and use it on the front squabs. Will even have enough leather left to do a cubby box/tool roll/etc. Result: should be a relatively quick, cheap build (after the 3 year/£14k SIII LR I did last time - which nearly killed me and sickned me towards Series Land Rovers), should cost very little - the X-factor being the Jeep gearbox that I'll have to source from the US I'd say. It should be an 80" Jeep with (hopefully) a turbodiesel, disc brakes on the front, subtle alloys, etc - but will use mil spec paint. Should be a funky little car - it'll be to a Willys what a Santana PS-10 was to a SIII 109. Reckon I'll be able to get all the donor bits for less than a grand plus another few hundred for the alloy sheet and steel. Will set myself a budget but sub-£2k fully serviced seems doable depending on whether I buy the springs new. With the tiny wheelbase I'm expecting it to perform at least as well as any non-coil 80" trialler. Add locking diffs and, axle articulation aside, think it would compete with a Defender too. SVA issues will be sharp edges but hopefully little else providing I use a modern engine. Plus Axles and Steering plus Engine = 3 major componenets plus a new built chassis - could potentially keep the Jeep reg. If not, a Q plate is fine by me. Welcome any comments but at this stage - given the low cost of a Cherokee donor I'm tempted to keep it all Jeep. PS: I'm without a 4x4 at the moment (sold my SIII and bought a new Fiesta ST) so it dawns on me that if I get a Cherokee with a short MOT then I can pull the seats out and use it as a van to gather the rest of the oily bits and the steel stock before scrapping the shell. Another bonus!

Thanks bud - yep fancy something completely different. The 1.9 VW is a good shout I understand its a common fitment into Suzukis in the US and adaptor plates are available. I'm actually toying with finding a single donor for the majority of parts - and thought a Cherokee might make a good source. Lots of 'generic' parts (Dana axles, Aisin transmission, etc) and would make the SVA process easier. Don't want to upset anyone on the forum by going too far from Land Rover parts so happy to pull the thread if mods prefer.

After finishing the last project, I've been toying with building a little 80" in the style of an old Willys MB Jeep from scratch - to the point that I've just ordered an expensive set of factory drawings for the chassis and pressed panels (don't worry it'll be a Q-plate and that's only if I think I can get it through an an SVA). It'll be a simplified design - like a vintage trialler really - so no complex curves or pressings. The alternative was a Locost - and an 80" will be more use. I'd like to find components that are roughly the same dimensions as the original units (engine/box/axles/etc) but bombproof and I only really know Land Rover parts. So if originality/the ALRC rules/DVLA wasn't a factor - what would be the perfect recipe for a 80" drivetrain? Aim would be to make it simple, lightweight and reliable in poor conditions - like a big quad. Without a small rear prop. 4-cyl diesel would be ideal (100bhp+ any make capable of handling harsh conditions), ideally auto, ideally Toyota axles. Thought a defender cluctch/brake and cable throttle. would work for was thinking about either a standard SIII steering setup or a P38A power steering box Common, cheap, OE units are the aim. Appreciate any pointers. I was thinking about a 2.5 NAD or even a 300TDI if I can find space for the ancilliaries - coupled with some big but thin generic radiator/intercooler from a scrappy. Axles - I've heard amazing things about toyota axles - being bulletproof and coming with discs and an electric LSD. Steering - was thinking about either a standard SIII setup or a P38A power steering box. Pedals - thought defender cluctch/brake and cable throttle. Gearbox - stuck. Every one I think of is quite long. I wouldn't have a standard series box - so I thought about an R380 plus the Series transfer box but thats still too long and an LT230 is longer still. So started thinking about toyota engines/boxes

Update: I removed the earth from the steering bracket (on most SIIIs this is on the footwell in the engine bay) and took it to bare steel before refitting. No effect.

Right, replaced the stabilizer with a spare I had AND ran a short earth from the stabilizer to the negative power socket behind the binnacle. None of this made a difference - stil the same high reading. I fitted the loom myself and the single earth behind the bulkhead is bolted onto the steering bracket. I'll take it out as per dnagger's advice and rub back to bare steel, see if it makes a difference.

Thanks mate - did another test today. It goes up with the lights on regardless of whether dash lights are switched on or not. SO I think that yourself and serious series have it nailed - bad earth. Which could be a loose fitting to the speedo or a faulty stabilizer. Will report back once I've got it sorted.

Thanks guys. Yep the sender, thermostat and gauges are all correct for a 2.25 petrol SIII. Bit of an update: I was told to try it with the external and instrument lights turned off, dd so on a long commit this morning and hey presto the needle is back to sitting at the top of the "N" well clear of the red zone. So I think that this is confirmation that the stabilizer is at fault. Think I'll replace it to be on the safe side - the old one is looking very bedraggled and I'd like to minimise the amount of times I open the binnacle rats nest. Thanks for your help.

Hi folks. I've recently finished a full rebuild of a SWB SIII 2.25 petrol - she's had a turner engine and most of the cooling system is new, except the radiator which was pressure and flow tested. During its first 500miles on running-in oil the temp gauge sat consistently at the top of the 'N' - higher than I've been used to in my previous SIII, but nothing to worry about. This weekend I carried out its first service and sorted a few electrical gremlins from behind the instrument binnacle (the speedo bulb glowed bright and then blew, so I had to replace it). However - when I took it out for a long run the temperature gauge went to the very top of the 'Normal' range, just shy of the red 'Hot' band. The needle sits there and never gets higher, however long the journey. Panicing, I bought an IR laser thermometer from Maplins and measured the surface temp of various points in the engine bag (thermostat housing, radiator, etc) and I couldn't find anything hotter than 69-degrees C. My understanding is that 74-degrees or even 82-degrees is perfectly acceptable as these are the standard thermostats. So if its not overheating, and as the temp sender is new, the only thing I can think of is that the voltage stabilizer on the back of the speedo is at fault - perhaps I knocked it when fiddling with the speedo backlight bulb. Is there any way I can test this theory (I don't have a multimeter I'm afraid) and would a replacement like this solid-state one off ebay be an appropriate solution or would I be better sticking with a pattern replacement for the standard one? Many thanks.

Thanks folks - used the above specs and picked one up yesterday. Works a treat.

Hi, does anyone know the generic specs for a standard SIII two pin indicator flasher unit? I'd like to pick one up from my local motor factors on saturday morning. Many thanks. Also, do flasher units burn out after a brief short circuit? I was installing a hazard kit and had a brief short that blew the inline fuse but there seemed to be a puff of smoke from the hazard kit's flasher unit too so I'm going to replace to to be safe (I've already got a replacement for this flasher - its the normal indicator one I need the specs for). Thanks.

How do folks. I've scoured my parts manual but can't find the part numbers for the bungs/grommets that go in the bulkhead on a SIII in place of a hand throttle. Could anyone help me?

Ah, embarrassed now... I didn't even think about using the wiring diagram. Thanks guys I'll get right on it.

Howdo. Bizarre post but I'm nearing the end of a 18-month nut and bolt rebuild of a 1972 SWB SIII 2.25 hard top. The PO butchered everything, but I've put it all right. I'm now ready to fit my new autosparks loom, but given that he removed just about everything electrical I thought I'd check here to make sure I haven't forgotten anything. solenoid coil distributor plugs ignition barrel lamps assorted switches and dials washer pump fuse box starter alternator ... then I start to get stumped. "flasher unit" I've heard this mentioned but don't know where its supposed to go "voltage regulator" as above can you think of any other little boxes of trucks that I haven't thought of? Many thanks.

Brilliant, thank you very much!

Hi folks. Could anyone tell me a) how many speakers there are and b) the locations of the speakers in a Puma Defender XS? This is specifically for those models fitted with the single-slot CD player as shown in the picture below. I’ve just bought a new-old-stock stereo to retrofit into my Landy as part of her rebuild and would like to duplicate the factor install – I will probably use the speaker housings supplied by Mudstuff.co.uk Many thanks indeed.

Iain, Thank you very much for posting this thread. I have now favourited it and really do look forward to following your progress. I’d really like to offer you some encouragement in your project and hope that you will continue with your write up and add plenty of photos. We all know that rebuilding a Land Rover engine is relatively straight forward and can be done inexpensively and relatively quickly. The low revving nature of the unit means that exotic techniques and advanced materials could well be considered ‘wasted’ on such an engine and would yield a relatively small performance benefit when compared to the cost/effort involved… However using such a rebuild as an exercise in engineering – as a personal challenge to see just how good you can make an engine; to use every technique in the book to ensure that a motor is running as minutely sweet as it can (without resorting to performance tuning) makes for a fantastically interesting home project and I understand where you are coming from 100%. I’ve just mounted a little 3MB 2.25 petrol on my new engine stand ready for a rebuild. I have recently devoured this book on engine blueprinting and am looking to build the engine with as much care as is possible in a home garage. This is my way of learning – if I aim for perfection, I may well fall short but I will learn more about the process and should end up with a really lovely-running motor. The majority of my plans include measuring, measuring and more measuring (over the last few months I have inexpensively assembled a collection of micrometers, verniers, feelers, bore gauge, digital scales and an old burette) to try and squeeze the tolerance ranges down as much as possible and to apply the principals of best-practice. I won’t be using as many exotic techniques as yourself (though I’d love to read more about them), though I will be having some parts dynamically balanced (at only £95 total for the crank, flywheel, clutch cover, rods and pistons I thought I would treat myself as a little extravagance) and I will also be having the block acid dipped to ensure the waterways are perfect (at £70 its hardly worth the effort of degreasing/stripping the block myself and will do a better job than a standard machine-shop how-wash). I wish you all the very best for your 300TDi project and, once again, (lots of) photos are very welcome!!!

My thread about building a N/A tdi engine may well be a contender for this section: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=81711

So ladies and gents - looks like we have some updates based on your shared knowledge: (starting at the bottom of the engine for a change...) The sump can stay the same (no design features are specific to the turbo element of the engine) The block can stay the same (no design features are specific to the turbo element of the engine) The crank can stay the same (shared with 2.5NAD and no design features are specific to the turbo element of the engine) The main bearings can stay the same (no design features are specific to the turbo element of the engine) The con rods can stay the same (no design features are specific to the turbo element of the engine) The pistons can almost certainly stay the same (no design features are specific to the turbo element of the engine - only the "Di" part) as the NA or 19j Turbo pistons can not be used. The cam can stay the same (shared with 2.5NAD and no design features are linked to the turbo element of the engine)

However, as Simon quite rightly says - now we know that the bowl in the piston is linked to the "direct injection" element rather than the forced induction and the volume of the recess creates the compression ration - there is no need to consider swapping crank, con rods or pistons between the different engines.

Just checked my Defender parts manual and indeed you are correct sir (at least for the later 2.5 NA/Turbo engines): 2.5 NAD crankshaft = ETC8829 to (V)399927, ERR1181 from (V)399928 2.5 Turbo Diesel crankshaft = ETC8829 to (V) August 1989, ERR1181 from (V)August 1989 200TDi crankshaft = ERR1181 300TDi crankshaft = ERR2112 2.5 NAD camsaft = ETC7128 2.5 Turbo Diesel camshaft = ETC7128 200TDi camshaft = ETC7128 300TDi camshaft = ERR3547

200:1, goodness! No, I'm quite happy with 19:1 thank you very much. I'm embarrassed to say that diesel is still something of a dark-art to me, I learned everything I know on petrol engines. It is, in part, for this reason that I want to build a diesel engine and why I'm so keen on advice from this forum.

Western/Simon/James - good shout, that's a major part of the puzzle solved then!

I'm not at all sure James - but it would certainly make sense - if the fuel is "squirted" directly into the recessed bowl and it is confined for a fast, clean burn then the bowled piston shape would indeed be linked to the "Direct Injection" aspect of the engine rather than the "Turbo" part. Which, would answer all the questions on piston choice... keep 'em the same. Good catch sir! I found a video which explains a little about direct injection... granted its for "Gasoline"... and its very American-orientated (the engines are vee-shaped) - but it does go some way to explain the difference - you can view it on YouTube