ianl1

So i thought i would look at my tow electrics socket on my 97 defender 90 300tdi which has never worked properly some investigation has shown its wired wrong with ground, fog, brake all on the wrong pins ive looked in the rear right corner where the tow electrics hook up point connectors are, and this is where im getting a bit confused. each black connector has two wires into the bottom of it and two holes in the top to accept bullet crimps, is this the feed into the connector and the feed out to the existing light, and the tow wiring goes in the spare holes? Or the feed in and the feed out to the tow socket with the car lights fed separately ? The right hand tail /stop lamp is fed seperatly from the loom, and the fog light uses the 3rd hole in its conector , this is what makes me think that it is a feed to the tow socket, as if not where does the 3rd fog wire go? but if so, where do the wires change from land rover colours to tow socket colours/cable? also are the two wires fixed in the bottom of the connector, or are they crimps plugged in? Ie should i be able to pull a wire out the bottom of the connector

Looks the same as the heated seat wiring / plugs as on my seats

Surely if 3db increase is twice as loud then 97db increase is 4294967296 times as loud (aprox)

Ah, yes that makes sense , thanks

So today i removed the 2 inches of mud and the fitted carpet from inside the bottom of my 300 battery box I discovered 4 little slots in the bottom of the box which vented into a small metal box welded to the underside of the battery box I asumed it is a drain , but The small box doesnt seem to have any holes in it So it seams to just be a way to store a little more mud, which of course is quite possible on a defender Have i missed some drain holes , i dont want to poke too hard, or have i missed some plot?

The indicators work from ignition feed and hazards direct from battery, each feed is on a different fuse, so its possible to blow the fuse that feeds the hazards and leave the indicators working

How would voltage sensing split charge kits cope with a ctek type charger?

Went to replace the uj on the front prop on my 300tdi defender 90 today. The "correct" uj for my vehicle is to small ( the 4 round bits are the correct diameter, but the distance across the uj is too small by aprox 20mm) Presumably at some point my front prop has been replaced with a) an uprated one, b) one from another vehicle, c) some random one Any guesses at what sort of UJ i need?

I'm a fan of fenix torches and have various sizes, didnt realise they did head torches too. ( must resist) The hp30 looks awsome at 900 lumen The one reviewed above seems to sell for £47

The hazard switch does 2 things: 1. Decides whether to send battery (hazard) or ignition (indicator) feed to the flasher relay 2. Connects the flasher return to left, right, and dash symbol When hazards are off left and right are seperate and fed from the stalk After this both left and right split to front, side and rear If the faulty indicator flashes in hazard mode then it must be connected to left, right, or dash, or directly to the flasher relay If it doesnt work with indicator, then presumably it is connected to left or dash symbol Does it flash when you indicate left?

Cheers guys, ground a spanner down ( why didnt i think of that) and all sorted now Actually took 2 spanners as i snapped the first one

so i'm removing the stock bumper (mainly because i've proved it to be as much use as a shoe box with the lid removed) i've unbolted one side , that was "easy" 2 bolts into a metal plate so on to the "hard" side........ the previous abuser has seen fit to remove the metal plate and replace it with 2 nylock nuts. the head of my spanner is too big to fit in the hole in the side of the chasis. i considered puting the 2 arms of the spanner into the 2 holes, but the arms are not long enough to quite reach the nut. i tried wedging various screwdrivers in the hole. i tried swearing at it and i tried scraping skin off my hands, all to no avail. i've considered using an angle grinder to remove the bolt heads, (this would involve grinding through the a bar on the way) but this would just leave 2 bits of studding with nylocks stuck in the chasis? is there a special "defender idiot fitted bumper removal tool" or "defender idiot fitted bumper removal technique" that i dont know about?

Today i watched my mot being done. Being 4wd and only having one set of rollers they tested the brakes with a decelerometer (?) basically drove, braked, read the value off the gizmo They then tested the handbrake in the same way. Now i was under the impression that being a transmision brake you were not ever meant to pull the handbrake when in motion at any speed. Luckily (?) my handbrake actually has no effect at all. I queried this procedure as potentially damaging, but they claim they are instructed to test 4x4 handbrakes by aplying them at 10mph. Is this right? Is this bad? Will it damage it? More importantly, once i fit my disc handbake conversion and take it for a retest will it rip the conversion off? will it trash the prop / gearbox/ transferbox/ etc? Or will it fire the tester through the windscreen?

Cheers guys. Hammer applied , all good now

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