ianl1

So i thought i would look at my tow electrics socket on my 97 defender 90 300tdi which has never worked properly some investigation has shown its wired wrong with ground, fog, brake all on the wrong pins ive looked in the rear right corner where the tow electrics hook up point connectors are, and this is where im getting a bit confused. each black connector has two wires into the bottom of it and two holes in the top to accept bullet crimps, is this the feed into the connector and the feed out to the existing light, and the tow wiring goes in the spare holes? Or the feed in and the feed out to the tow socket with the car lights fed separately ? The right hand tail /stop lamp is fed seperatly from the loom, and the fog light uses the 3rd hole in its conector , this is what makes me think that it is a feed to the tow socket, as if not where does the 3rd fog wire go? but if so, where do the wires change from land rover colours to tow socket colours/cable? also are the two wires fixed in the bottom of the connector, or are they crimps plugged in? Ie should i be able to pull a wire out the bottom of the connector

Looks the same as the heated seat wiring / plugs as on my seats

Surely if 3db increase is twice as loud then 97db increase is 4294967296 times as loud (aprox)

Ah, yes that makes sense , thanks

So today i removed the 2 inches of mud and the fitted carpet from inside the bottom of my 300 battery box I discovered 4 little slots in the bottom of the box which vented into a small metal box welded to the underside of the battery box I asumed it is a drain , but The small box doesnt seem to have any holes in it So it seams to just be a way to store a little more mud, which of course is quite possible on a defender Have i missed some drain holes , i dont want to poke too hard, or have i missed some plot?

The indicators work from ignition feed and hazards direct from battery, each feed is on a different fuse, so its possible to blow the fuse that feeds the hazards and leave the indicators working

How would voltage sensing split charge kits cope with a ctek type charger?

Went to replace the uj on the front prop on my 300tdi defender 90 today. The "correct" uj for my vehicle is to small ( the 4 round bits are the correct diameter, but the distance across the uj is too small by aprox 20mm) Presumably at some point my front prop has been replaced with a) an uprated one, b) one from another vehicle, c) some random one Any guesses at what sort of UJ i need?

I'm a fan of fenix torches and have various sizes, didnt realise they did head torches too. ( must resist) The hp30 looks awsome at 900 lumen The one reviewed above seems to sell for £47

The hazard switch does 2 things: 1. Decides whether to send battery (hazard) or ignition (indicator) feed to the flasher relay 2. Connects the flasher return to left, right, and dash symbol When hazards are off left and right are seperate and fed from the stalk After this both left and right split to front, side and rear If the faulty indicator flashes in hazard mode then it must be connected to left, right, or dash, or directly to the flasher relay If it doesnt work with indicator, then presumably it is connected to left or dash symbol Does it flash when you indicate left?

Cheers guys, ground a spanner down ( why didnt i think of that) and all sorted now Actually took 2 spanners as i snapped the first one

so i'm removing the stock bumper (mainly because i've proved it to be as much use as a shoe box with the lid removed) i've unbolted one side , that was "easy" 2 bolts into a metal plate so on to the "hard" side........ the previous abuser has seen fit to remove the metal plate and replace it with 2 nylock nuts. the head of my spanner is too big to fit in the hole in the side of the chasis. i considered puting the 2 arms of the spanner into the 2 holes, but the arms are not long enough to quite reach the nut. i tried wedging various screwdrivers in the hole. i tried swearing at it and i tried scraping skin off my hands, all to no avail. i've considered using an angle grinder to remove the bolt heads, (this would involve grinding through the a bar on the way) but this would just leave 2 bits of studding with nylocks stuck in the chasis? is there a special "defender idiot fitted bumper removal tool" or "defender idiot fitted bumper removal technique" that i dont know about?

Today i watched my mot being done. Being 4wd and only having one set of rollers they tested the brakes with a decelerometer (?) basically drove, braked, read the value off the gizmo They then tested the handbrake in the same way. Now i was under the impression that being a transmision brake you were not ever meant to pull the handbrake when in motion at any speed. Luckily (?) my handbrake actually has no effect at all. I queried this procedure as potentially damaging, but they claim they are instructed to test 4x4 handbrakes by aplying them at 10mph. Is this right? Is this bad? Will it damage it? More importantly, once i fit my disc handbake conversion and take it for a retest will it rip the conversion off? will it trash the prop / gearbox/ transferbox/ etc? Or will it fire the tester through the windscreen?

Cheers guys. Hammer applied , all good now

Some more

Here is a picture of the bolt

Absolutely every thing is off my door except the handle and this one bolt asembly holding it on I have removed from the back of the handle : A bolt with a 8mm head with a nut rusted to it that changed to a big thread into the front of the handle A scre and a circlip that let me remove the push button A screw that let me remove the lock barrel

Trying to remove the external push button door handle from my 96 defender 90 300tdi Front bolt removed Lock barrel removed Push button removed Handle still held by back "bolt" which i cant work out Apears to be a bolt with a 8mm head through a nut which takes a 10mm spanner and a washer, into the back of the handle. Looking into the handle where the push button should be i see the end of the bolt going into what looks like a nut but the outside is round. Turning the bolt spins the "round nut" Turning the 10mm nut just seems to spin freely What am i missing? Thanks

inddeed, but sometimes after a long night at work it amuses me to be followed by an attack squadron rather than just one car

i've been using the 2 cameras with the mirror monitor for a while. i fitted the little camera that came with the holesaw above the rear door as permanent view and the other camera pointing down at the tow bar as reversing view i've found 2 problems: both cameras have the lines on them for reversing, and the permanent view camera has a line across right where a car would normally be behind you and on a sunny day the screen is still a good mirror, so you see a small car displayed by the camera and a giant car flying through the sky. nearly crashed teh car first time i saw the flying car about to crash into the back of me. also frosty nights give interesting psycadelic pictures

What size cable is powering the amp? I would be looking at 6mm minimum , probably 10mm , to avoid too much volt drop in the cable

My defender has started doing this, started during some off roading at the weekend and has continued at every brake use on the day and all this week back on the roads. Wouldnt a knock whilst offroading affect one side and cause uneven braking rather than an even lack off? Would this still be the likely cause if it is happening every time i brake, even if just roll forward 10 yards between succesfull double tap and next push? I was thinking leaking seal somewhere causing air?

ah, i was asuming the gearbox reverse switch switched to ground to trigger a relay to feed 12v to the reverse light, which might be fused. so does it just go fuse to switch to light? a

further playing with my cheap ebay one , and now the monitor does switch in and out of standby when the green / blue wire gets 12v. presumably i can get "12v when reversing" from the fuse box? can anyone point to where?

I decided to get one of these too, as per the ebay link The camera is wired to the reverse light, the monitor on the ignition. When not in reverse the monitor shows a bright blue screen and the words no signal, as the camera is off I tried conecting the blue wire ( called green in the instructions) to 12v and this switches between av1 and av2. However all i've achieved is switching between one blue screen and another. Is there a way to make it switch to a black screen when not reversing, so i can use it as a mirror, without the use of the on/off button. I thought the blue wire might switch it in and out of standby but that doesnt seem to work. Secondly, where is a god place to find a 12v when reversing feed at the front end of a 90? Thanks