[A bizarre question.]

Dont know how to do links im a bit dumb when it comes to these things! all i can say is it was advertised on ebay.workshop to let,it was adertised last week,my mrs has deleted the number too,ill have a look and see if i can find it.JUST been readvertised on ebay, WORKSHOP TO LET

Aren't there any hire companys that will hire a trailer one way ie pick up from a place near you and drop off near where your going!!!!????

[110]

We have had a spacer +2" kit on our Discovery for a couple of years and again couldn't fault it, all the benefits of standard suspension comfort and flexibility with the benefit of taller tyres.

Will

Anyone had problems with vibrations at speed? Or weeping diffs where the angle has caused the seals to leak?

I only ask beacause I was interested in doing this and I was put off by the local landy garage and a few things I read on here!

Cheers Ted

[Timing Belt and Oil Seal]

There are three seals - The outer cover seal, which is actually called a dust seal, then the crankshaft front oil seal, which is behind the sprocket that the timing belt runs on. The camshaft oil seal is behind the camshaft timing belt sprocket. I don't change the camshaft oil seal unless it's leaking. The cam and crank seals are in the housing and changing them only requires removal of the sprockets. The keyway you refer to - is it the crankshaft woodruff keyway? If the damage is slight, then a new woodruff key and torque seal used on assembly should cure the problem. If the keyway is badly damaged, then repair the crank, replace the crank, or bodge it with Chemical metal, Araldite, or similar.

Les.

Les sorry to jump in on the Q's but what do you use to pull/prise off the crank shaft gear /pully?

Cheers Ted

[Spring isolators]

Here is athread on spring isolators http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...mp;#entry197001

Gaza

All this is very weird I spoke to the local dealer and he didn't know anything about them?

But the site even though American says they are Landrover originals and can be put on a Defender front & back top & bottom and you can put four on each spring!!!!!

Now you say they don't even fit a rear of a Defender 110!!!!

What about the shock tower isolators for the front?

Cheers Ted

[Spring isolators]

Hi has anyone fitted these? Part number ANR 2938 rubberised spring isolators, I've been told you can fit them top & bottom, front & back?

Also part number RBC 100111, I believe these are fitted as standard on Discos but can be fitted to a standard Defender?

Anyone know where I can get them posted to me? also if they will fit (good bad idea??)

Cheers Ted

[Battery isolator]

The FIA switch is the only way to go, there is no real benefit in just fitting an isolator switch other than just isolating the battery when the vehicle is not in use but they have the real ability to cause alternator damage.

I have been fitting the FIA switch to my LR's for 20-years now and they are totally reliable while being very effective at doing what they are designed for which is making the vehicle safe in the event of an accident. They also act as a very basic anti-theft device as to overcome it means you have to first locate it and then either have a spare key or the time & tools to bypass the switch.

Fit a bypass supply with a low current fuse to power the alarm.

Thanks all.

My 110 isn't a race vehicle so not worried about that too much !

I fitted the cut off switch as a anti theft devise more than anything, so assume that its going to be good for what I intended?

Although some good points have been raised as in the event of a crash it would be a good point to stop the engine(or so I thought)

Where can I get a copy of the FIA wiring diagram for the cut off switch?

Cheers Ted

[Battery isolator]

Hi,

I've just fitted a battery isolator to my 110 300Tdi and whilst doing so had some disturbing thoughts! I know it would no be good if turned off when driving but what exactly would it do? Would there be damage to the engine?

I now need to make the key smaller so as not to tempt the kids to fiddle with it!!!!!!

Cheers Ted

[Anyone put these on]

never seen a set of JATE rings here, and just plugged that number into my favourite importers cattle dog and it didn't want to know about it ....

Nor have I, unfortunatly.

Whats the general consensus? on drilling another hole? Or will this compromise the strength of the chassis?

[Anyone put these on]

Are you sure they are not just rather tough heads for a shepherd's crook for use when dealing with unruly rams?

Seriously though I always like the feeling of enclosure that a ring and shackle provides.

Malcy

Yeah I know what you mean! These have clasps on them to stop the snatch strap falling out its what everyone uses here! you can't get JATE rings?

the main thing is drilling a new hole in the chassis? (good or bad idea?)

[Shocks]

'Best' is always a curly term to me

Maybe 'best compromise' in a certain situation depending on a lot of other criteria that may or may not be applicable to you.

Anyway, B46-0243 are fronts and are the same as RRC and Disco I, so may be a touched underdamped for a 110 with HD springs, although they art listed as having heavy duty valving. B46-0253 are listed for the rear, and I reckon they are too soft in rebound for a 110 with HD springs, and miles too light for a 130.

Heasmans here in Oz now list a different pt. # for 130's, BE5-6540 for the front, and BE5 6529 for the rear.

Ring Heasmans/Sydney Shocks in Sydney, they are the importer and can advise, depending on your springs and what you do with the vehicle.

Bilstein are also shorter stroke than Koni, OME, TJM, EFS, etc. in an OE type damper, so will restrict your articulation slightly.

Thanks for that

Well back to the drawing board!!!!

[Anyone put these on]

Hi,

Just wondering if anyone has put one of these on? (I intend to put one on each side)

Its attached with two bolts, that I intend to strengthen with a plate at the back of the nuts.

My question for you is I have taken the tiedown point off, and will need to drill out the existing hole and drill a completly new hole just forward of the tie down hole, is this a good way to attach this or not? Any advise would be appreciated.

Thanks Ted

[Service History]

I would put it down to Austral being a bunch of idiots. I used to work for them and can say that with experiance And southside Land rover are just as bad as they are owned by them also . I would and do go to the other serval land rover spealist around Brisbane .

If you really want to know the detail then go to the Volvo, Jag and Landy garage in the valley and ask to speak to Bob Kendall. He is the manager of the Whole Austral group in QLD. Really nice and freindly chap . He will help you with anything as he cares alot about these problems or you can call him on his phone number 07 3248 9484. He will get the info for you and kick some ar*e about it too

Where abouts are you . They are loads southside and northside

Very useful! Thanks for that, I'm north side and use MR Auto alot who are good!

What was your job with Austral?

[Shocks]

Hi,

Has anyone any experience of using these Bilstein gas shocks B46-0243-MO?

I've been told by the local landrover garage that these are the best set up for my 110, for road & off road handling!

Cheers

Ted

[Standard springs]

I've had OME 761 springs (drivers) and N115 dampers on the front of my 110 for a number of years now. Which has a winch bumper and a MileMarker up front. Couldn't be happier.

Had HD springs as per Land Rover spec previously that are a little bit harder - 225 lbs instead of OME's 200. The lift due to the longer OMEs compared to the HDs was maybe 5-10 mm.

Thanks all!

It is a 110 sorry keep forgetting to add that

[Standard springs]

Ted

I have ome's on my 90 and find them great. Have had them before on defnders but we loaded up our 90 and drove it round Aus loaded up. and the shocks and springs did fine.

Mine we fitted by ARB at Coopers plain (you know Beaudessert road one)

Go and speak to them and they will be able to tell you which ones are best for you car and what you carry in it

Ali

Thanks for that Ali.

I was thinking of putting the springs & shocks on myself, so just wanted to pick your brain for the size spring & shock, when you consider that the majority of the time it is unloaded?

PS What time does the State of Origin match start?

Cheers Ted

[Standard springs]

Hi,

I've been trying to get info on what would be the best set of springs & shocks to get?

My rig is standard on the front I suspect that they have never been renewed since it was new 10-11 years ago!

When loaded up with camping gear & kitchen sink it tends to wobble a bit round corners!!!

What would be the better set up for a standard front end suspension set up? I'm looking at the OME 751 springs & the N115 shocks, but don't know if these would be good or maybe too hard?

Also would they increase the height drasticlly?

Thanks for any advise

Cheers

Ted

[Service History]

Privacy laws sounds like rubbish to me. How can it be anything to do with privacy? You own the vehicle, so I can't see any problem with giving you the information on it's history.

Les.

Thats what I thought! and I did persist, but he stuck to his guns!

[Service History]

Hi,

Being one for detail!

Something was bothering me about a forth coming cambelt change, the details of the last change, that was done by Austral Landrover (main dealer)here in Brisbane? I had spoke to them about the service history a while ago and was told that a cambelt change was done at 91,300K's in 2004, but I wanted to know what kit they used to solve the misalignment problems?

Here my problems started, they told me that they were unable to provide me with any details of the service history as it was against Privacy laws!!!!

So if you buy a second hand car you cannot trace he service history!!!!

Has anyone heard of this ? Or are they fobbing me off?

Cheers

Ted

[Gearbox / xfer box oils]

Talking of a mess, how do you get the oil OUT of the R380 on a Defender without it hitting the cross member and going in all directions, especially if it is hot and thin, as it should be

Try using a small piece of guttering! cut to length in to a container or bowl!

Something that was pointed out to me after I got engine oil from the filter all down one arm!! (an its allways the one you wipe your face with)

Ted

[Cam belt change]

Yes.

Les.

No wonder it is hard to undo!! ???? (Why not tighten to 90nm?)

Thanks Ted

[Cam belt change]

A corner is 90-deg, so (for instance) 12-o-clock to 3-o-clock is 90-deg. Quarter of a complete turn.

Les.

So by that you mean tighten to 80nm and then tighten a quarter turn again?

[Cam belt change]

If your old belt has significantly narrowed (it should be 25mm wide), then it is still out of alignment. The casing will be loaded with rubber 'hair' and there will be a worn track on the timing outer cover - especially where it wraps around the injector pump pulley. Some small wear on the cover is quite common, but you will see the difference. If your belt is still out of alignment, then it will be about 1/2 to 1/3 of it's original width.

I doubt very much that there are any 300TDi engines still running that have not had this problem sorted out.

Les.

Yeh thats my thinking as well, as I said the detail twists my head, I was just worried that if I take it all apart and the servise kit has not been done I would be left standing with all the bit around me not knowing what to do!

Just one more thing! excuse me if I'm being thick(again) but when you say tighten the crank shaft pully bolt to 80nm and the 90 degrees? what do you mean by 90 degrees?

I'm sorry to be a pain but I really want to do the job! But want to be sure I don't knacker my beautiful purring!! Defender

Cheers Ted

[Cam belt change]

...actually, the latest (last???) tech bulletin I have,as of march 25th, 1998, says torque the belt to 11Nm.

You know when I said that I tend to look in to the detail of things too much? Well this has just put alot of doubt into my mind about doing the job myself!!!!

When I searched the service history when buying the 110 I was told that the cambelt kit had been done, by the main dealer!but I can't find the blob of yellow paint on the casing! indicating that the repair kit has been installed?

Thanks for the info(confusion) Silvio.

Anybody else got any pearls of wisdom!!!!

Cheers Ted

[Cam belt change]

Torque figures you need -

Timing belt tensioner bolt.................................45NM

Idler wheel nut...............................................45Nm

Crankshaft pulley bolt.....................................80Nm and then 90-deg

Timing belt tension.........................................15Nm

Camshaft centre bolt.......................................80Nm

Timing cover bolts...........................................25Nm

Injector pump centre hub.................................25Nm

The text actually says 21.77Nm, which is still wrong. I'll change it.

Les.

Thanks

[Cam belt change]

Hello,

A Question for Les, really!

I'm trying to gain as much info as I can before tackling the job of a cambelt change!

reading the 1996 manual it states that you should loosen the bolts for the injection pump gear, to get the belt to sit properly? But the main question I have is it(the manual) says torque the new belt up to 15nm and you are saying 27.77nm I want to follow your tech archive but want to make sure I'm not missing anything so have read the manual and am now confused!

Also is it really necessary to change the crankshaft gear (if there is no sign of wear on the old cam belt)and if so do I need a puller to get it off!

Sorry I'm sure you have been over this before but I can't seem to find it?

Cheers Ted.