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Everything posted by BogMonster

  1. Presume the air filter is OK?
  2. Slight error, the Nyloc version is NY606041L not NZ. Google for suppliers but e.g. https://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/superseded/ny606041-use-ny606041l.html
  3. The bolts are 3/8 UNF, 9/16 spanner IIRC. You could get some 3/8 UNF nuts easily enough, dealers will still sell them as all the prop nuts and bolts are still UNF - not really sure why. NZ606041L appears to be the part number. See here https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-TN3209 I am pretty sure you have to take the flange off to change the bolts if they won't come out, slight problem if the prop is still on there! You could fit them the other way around as you suggest, I have never had to do it but as long as it has a nyloc nut on it I don't think there is a fundamental problem doing that.
  4. Yes - go through all the nonsense and then the real one looks like the original Ibex
  5. Well put The one thing I am relatively certain about is that it didn't drive up that stand, it was put there - as it would have knocked off both the front and rear bumpers in the process
  6. Couple of things 1. There's already a leak underneath it 2. It does show how much wheelspin is needed to trigger it which mirrors my experience of the old TC system and my limited experience of the D3. In difficult high load conditions you just get lots of wheelspin on alternating wheels as it jumps around trying to transfer the power, and f all forward motion.
  7. I have to say that nothing that I saw in the Moab videos seemed particularly challenging. Likewise the Tusk footage, bit of splashing about, a clay track, some grassland and a fairly lightly laden trailer. It wasn't exactly the Camel Trophy. Glad to hear they have at least learned some lessons!
  8. I want to drive that up to about 50mph very carefully and then stomp on the brakes when there is lots of oncoming traffic...
  9. You forgot "Premium Durability" = "Plastic carp" Looks like the wheels are mostly 20" which answer lots of questions. In the wrong way.
  10. Very true, while if you get into a 1980s 110, it basically just feels like being in a Land Rover. TDV6 maintenance is one thing I don't miss having to think about. I'm sure the new Def will be the same, take the body off to change the alternator and stuff like that. Designed to be manufactured and not maintained.
  11. Neither would I - D2 is the last of the proper models. I wish they still made it. 13 years and no real headaches with mine, only sold it as body corrosion was starting in places that would be difficult to sort and petrol was twice the price of diesel in this country, so the fact that it cost four times as much as a diesel to run was unsustainable. If the new Defender was a utility body shape built on the D2 chassis and suspension setup with the 3.2L Mitsubishi engine and transmission out of my Shogun, I'd have one in a heartbeat.
  12. It is certainly the best of the collection of "maybes" so far. Still a Shogun replacement rather than a Defender replacement though... and why would you randomly have a picture of the car you are sitting in on the middle of the dash? Given that there are now also a bunch of other 'interior photos' on the Landroverphotoalbum group on Faecesbook, I wonder if it's all still part of the misinformation exercise. The dash shown in the other images has a similar looking speedo, but definitely doesn't have the vehicle image. What appears to be supposed to look like the same set of photos also has an air spring in one photo and a coil in another.
  13. Doing the rounds on various other places, this purports to be a sneaky pic of the dash image on a broken down example of the new vehicle. Doesn't look a lot like Lego but could conceivably fit into the padded cells that have been out driving around.
  14. Three options for amusement tonight: the Tory leaders, the discussion on here, or Love Island
  15. On this occasion I was just out testing the new toy, but it's on a track a few miles from town and a piece of ground I knew fairly well. It's only about quarter of a mile from the nearest road so positively urban
  16. Yes, 'cos the wheels would still have been on the ground Everything I have seen in recent years appears to be engineered to work on a test track to sell a car, not in the real world when you start using it and want to use it every day. But that's sort of been the problem with all the recent models, they are very nice when they work. The last bit is the sticky area. Bong bong bong.............
  17. This was our demonstrator which I took for a spin off road the first weekend we had it at the dealership. Crossaxled and completely unable to move forwards...
  18. Most Defender vehicles here have them and a lot are fitted for form, but the function bit is preserving air filter life far more than wading. The external air intake does suck in mud and water especially driving in muddy or wet conditions with wide tyres on, but particularly on the Puma the air filter life is pretty poor. The Puma seems to suck much harder than the Tdi drawing in a lot more carp, and the flat air filter is inherently more prone to blockage - the engine then shuts down into some sort of limp home mode and you can only do about 20mph. In a dry summer the roads here (mostly gravel, can be very dusty when dry) can be hard on air filters and off road there can be lots of dust and grass seed flying around. While few if any do the water-up-the-windscreen wading, it's nice to have the peace of mind that if you do have to plough through a stream that happens to be in flood, you don't have to worry about it, as it only takes about two seconds to ruin your day. Series didn't have them and there have been quite a few left parked nose-down in streams over the years too, in the days before there were any roads at all, but I think the old oil bath filter was just fundamentally better at filtering stuff out.
  19. Not expensive but ... currently ... unavailable ... from anywhere. Oh well, I didn't need to tip anything at the moment anyway....
  20. ^ Yup, agree with all that Snagger. Making a modern plastic LR good offroad is like making a cat hover. It can certainly be done, but it's a bit pointless when you consider the additional functionality is still fatally flawed, the functionality is not really much use at all for its main intended role, and the whole premise relies heavily on expensive, complicated and inherently unreliable and overstressed technology that will probably break just when you don't want it to. Only a man who wears collars like Dumbo's ears would seriously think it was a good idea. Meet Gerry.
  21. Electric TT3621 - now been told that a 32 hydraulic oil is the thing to use. Manual may be the same - mine has the manual lever but tried it today and by heck it's slow!
  22. Google has failed to educate me, I need to top up (and probably change) the oil on my Ifor tipper as some of it has mysteriously disappeared. So far I see a suggestion that 10w40 engine oil is OK, and another that a 32 weight hydraulic oil is fine. I can't see anything that actually specifies what is in it from the factory. Anybody know? Ta
  23. ^ That. Same issues here, for different environmental reasons. Winter roads are just a sea of abrasive mud that is like valve grinding paste. Brake pads can wear out in a couple of weeks if it is really bad, carp gets into the sensors and everything else, and crater-sized potholes hammer the suspension to bits. The live axle system on the D2 was about the best compromise, better suspension control than the old Defender layout and the big radius arm bushes were very robust, but none of the complexity and alignment issues of independent.
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