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Everything posted by BogMonster

  1. Well I disagree on the first bit and still think parts commonality is a thing to aspire to, but it obviously makes any mod that involves butchering the brakes - or swapping them for ones off a different model - enough to massively void any type approval in any 1st world country! However fly by wire indirect brakes scare me a lot more, if that's also really a thing
  2. I have one that I think came from Machine Mart, I have mounted it on the ceiling of the garage so it will go in any direction and reach all of the garage but also go outside and reach anything there. The ceiling of my garage is 3.45m high so I've got the stopper set so it retracts to just high enough that it doesn't hit either me or a vehicle when rewound, but I can reach up and grab it easily enough. The most important thing is that it's not restrictive which will completely throttle the airflow for air tools - so you want a 3/8" or 10mm one, the cheap 1/4" ones are not worth having except for (slow) tyre inflation! I've also got my old Draper 25L compressor which I can charge up and throw in the back of the vehicle for a quick tyre job, if I need a much longer hose
  3. My point was that if the 18s fit on, surely they fit on? Surely Land Rover haven't been stupid enough to use different brakes even between different models of the same vehicle thereby making getting the correct parts a complete nightmare for the rest of time ... have they?
  4. What's so clever about that? There are factory 18" rims aren't there? I thought the steels were 18s.
  5. That's very misleading. I suppose they will claim that it means "it's one of only 150 made" but that's obviously not how it is intended to be read!
  6. Absolutely right. This is true even on dry ground like that where you can lose and then regain traction without any real problem. On wet surface where wheelspin = failure, it just doesn't work well. The traction control systems are a massive improvement on nothing (my old Ranger with no traction control and limited wheel travel is completely useless off road) and they have got a lot better over 20 years of development, but the stress through the driveline from all the bouncing around and wheel spinning must dramatically shorten the life of the drivetrain. It's why I love the ATBs I have put in my 300Tdi, there is just no scrabbly wheelspin at all.
  7. It doesn't work properly though, get loads of messages about files and paths missing. I have never downloaded unlocked versions as I have not needed them. Are they on here somewhere, or has anybody got a link?
  8. Bah - mine's knackered too. It's only a few months since I used it with no problem. It just doesn't open, the splash screen appears then nothing.
  9. I like what I see so far. I don't really need to buy another vehicle any time soon, because I bought a late Puma as a 'spare', but I like the ethos behind this thing a lot and I might well buy one. So, now we've got a shiny new forum, how about a thread on factory options we'd like to see? For me it ticks many of the boxes already. It's built on a solid-looking suspension setup (have to wait and see if it has a decent ride off road to match a Defender, too many others are too soft or too hard). It has a decent sized engine if the 3L diesel comes along (always said the ideal combo would be the Puma with the 3.2L engine out of my Shogun). And I presume it must have better rollover protection than Defender if it is going to get certified, as that's a major issue here. Options/features yet to be confirmed? - Ability to fit oversize tyres for soft ground, min 33" dia 12.5" wide without fouling/damage, better if up to 35" dia without major mods. - Ability to fit 15" or at most 16" wheels, to retain some sidewall. - A standard hub pattern, 5x165 to match Defender would be great, if not then Jap 6 stud, for plenty of aftermarket wheels. - Factory fit options for front and rear ATB diffs or difflocks (or both). Sounds like it's possible. Proper centre difflock - of course. - Factory option for a HD front.rear bumper, ARB sort of thing, unless it already is this sort of build - Solid point to bolt a tow hitch onto both at chassis height and a drop plate. A solid 2" receiver hitch integrated into the back of the chassis would work - Solid tow point on the front - another central receiver hitch? - Option to above - an easy to fit solid winchbumper with front towing points - Strong Brownchurch-style galv ladder roof rack and roof bars - Spare wheel carrier on the door that will stand up to continuous use on rough roads - Waterproof snorkel system, not one stuck onto the wing with silicone - End-user diagnostics for remote locations + an app for a phone or tablet The starting price needs to be sensible or none of the above matters. And I want to see them bring one to the Falklands to test
  10. Oooh now, an Ibex with one of those in....
  11. Let's just say supporting any industry in that part of the world sticks in the throat a bit around these parts! Yes - all the later engines must have been assembled by International I think. However apart from the fact that the things like the timing belt issues were long since worked out of the design, the engines are basically indistinguishable from the original UK-built ones as far as performance and reliability goes. The basic engine remains solid, but the quality of some of the ancilliaries is a bit rubbish, much as it always was. Mine has 35,000 miles on it, the wife's around 90k miles, although hers is getting a bit tired now it's done a lot of hard work.
  12. To my eternal disgust all the post 1998 300Tdi engines have "Industria Argentina" on the engine block, even the ones fitted at the factory up until 2006. I presume they bought in the blocks. Never had a problem with them though.
  13. Some do it some don't, I don't think it is necessarily a fault. You want it to roar when it's hot, and as long as it does that it is fine.
  14. I'm not in the UK, and it's windy here
  15. At the risk of reopening a topic holding legendary status within LR4x4, I could really do with a sandblaster. However it would be very much for occasional use, so I don't want to spend a lot of money. The sort of thing I would use it for would be to clean up side steps and crossmembers prior to painting, that type of thing. Loose rust and paint removal in places that are awkward to get at with a grinder or flap wheel, and too much like hard work to do manually. What's the view on current available models at the budget end of the market - anything worth having? The sort of thing I had in mind (having never used a sandblaster) was something like this: https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cpsb1-portable-sandblaster-kit/ Or even a hand-held one (though I prefer the above) https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/sb3-gritblast-gun/ However I have no idea if things at this sort of price range are any good or complete carp. I don't really want to spend more than about £100 if I can avoid it. I have a 3HP AIE industrial compressor with a big tank on it, so air is in fairly good supply. A second and related question is - how might these things perform with actual 'sand'? I have a plentiful supply of wind-blown clean white quartz sand right on the doorstop, and I just wondered....
  16. 33x12.50R15 on 8" rims is pretty well the standard fit for Defenders here and I've never heard of a case with problems. We have three 110s and they all use this size. 10" rims do spread the rubber a bit better off road but the downsides are that they are much more prone to wheel wobble due to the offset, and the sides of the vehicle both suffer from stone damage and get absolutely filthy. It's an issue when you live where there are a lot of unsurfaced roads. I had mine on 10" rims and took them off and replaced with 8s!
  17. Yeah - you want somebody who knows how to do Ford diagnostics, rather than somebody who has been through a Ford training course!
  18. In my old job we had a Ford diagnostic system to do these and the system did more or less anything Ford including vehicles I had never heard of. I would have thought any competent independent that could do Ford diagnostics could help. It's probably the same as mine underneath - the old 2.5L turbo indirect injection Mazda-derived engine? Completely bombproof injector pump engine. Mine was a 2011 model but I think the UK models were on to a TDCI engine by then. Never actually had to program a new remote in my time so can't say for sure what the process is.
  19. Dammit, chinese, doesn't post here (and they never turn up if they do). I basically want something that is easy to fit in the original location and looks more or less original but has more light output. The Wipac LED reverse lights are ideal for physical fit, just carp for output!!
  20. Thanks. Those LEDs are only 35w equivalent and the other spot LEDs are only 25w equiv. I want something that is equivalent to 60-100w ideally. May have to think again...
  21. In the standard Defender (and many other) lights there are single-pole bayonet bulbs, 21 watt output, part number 264591. Does anybody know what this bayonet fitting is called - the generic universal fitting type? For example a small fluorescent tube is a T5 tube, a standard headlight bulb is a H4 etc etc. What I want to find is a nuclear LED bulb that provides much higher output. I have a LED reverse light as part of a full set of LED lights on the Puma and it's garbage, worse than the standard reverse light, so my thinking is that if I can find a much higher output LED bulb that would fit in the standard reverse light body then I could fit that. I live out in the sticks and reversing with the standard reverse light can be difficult, and I can't really be bothered to run a load of wiring for some high level lights. A super duper round LED that would fit in the same mounting pattern as the standard late-type round reverse light would be even better....
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