BogMonster

Doesn't work now on mine, regardless of what compatibility settings you use. Very annoying.

The biggest pain with Milemarkers is that there is no support in the UK now. I've never needed anything (15 years and counting, only issue I've ever had was the belt to the pump stretching with age and slipping) but if anything went significantly wrong it would basically not be worth trying to fix and I'd probably get another Goodwinch TDS9.5. Upsides of the MIlemarker are that it'll shift a house and shift it all day long. Downsides are that you'll need all day to shift it, with a low gear line speed of about 2m/min, unless you go for a full PTO system, and then you can't drive-assist. There was talk of producing a high-flow chain-driven pump off the front of the engine, but I don't think it ever appeared, Alfred Murray was the distributor but long since gone.

Thanks. Yeah I ended up finding they were an AB606... number so I bought some #6 stainless ones and refitted it with those. I thought the centre row screws were self-tappers too but I now find there is something on the bottom of them that spins so I gave up and decided I couldn't be bothered!

In the back of the 110 there is a metal strip across the bottom of the door aperture which retains the rubber floor mat at the back, held in by 7 screws. In the second row there is a similar arrangement to retain the rubber mat on either side except it's held in across the bottom of the door aperture by 3 much larger screws on each side. I need to identify a number for the screws but am being told the parts manual says these plates are riveted on. They aren't and never have been. Anybody got a parts diagram/numbers for these 2 different sorts of screws please? Thanks.

I guess charge what the market will stand, somebody doing a concours job on a Series 1 is probably happy to pay whatever to get the right tyres on it. Coming soon, 9.00-16 bar grips for extra fun on a wet roundabout!

Nope, still made albeit in limited form! https://www.avontyres.com/en-gb/classic-tyres/traction-mileage/ Though why anybody would want to pay nearly £200 for a 6.00x16 crossply that was awful 30 years ago is one to ponder....

**** I only paid half that for my ROW 2006 300Tdi when it was brand new!

Don't they just

Common problem, leaks around the windscreen and elsewhere, the BECM will be wrecked and green and furry inside. I think it'll be replace rather than repair...

A 2 speed hand winch off a boat trailer if it is a one-off or occasional requirement. If you might want to do it a lot I would look into a 12 volt ATV winch. The main thing I would be aware of is the possibility of it departing with haste if anything broke, so somebody on standby with something to wedge under the wheels would be sensible!

It was a crisp -3.9 here in the early hours, and now a refreshing 1.1

At this point in a vehicle's life you find out why metal is better for things that are hot and vibrating all the time (ooer)

You may be right - fortunately the law here is rather more flexible - though I'm surprised that messing with a safety system like brakes doesn't void type approvals, you are after all putting a smaller set of brakes on a faster car which if it met the standards would surely have been done in the first place if only to save money...

Well I disagree on the first bit and still think parts commonality is a thing to aspire to, but it obviously makes any mod that involves butchering the brakes - or swapping them for ones off a different model - enough to massively void any type approval in any 1st world country! However fly by wire indirect brakes scare me a lot more, if that's also really a thing

I have one that I think came from Machine Mart, I have mounted it on the ceiling of the garage so it will go in any direction and reach all of the garage but also go outside and reach anything there. The ceiling of my garage is 3.45m high so I've got the stopper set so it retracts to just high enough that it doesn't hit either me or a vehicle when rewound, but I can reach up and grab it easily enough. The most important thing is that it's not restrictive which will completely throttle the airflow for air tools - so you want a 3/8" or 10mm one, the cheap 1/4" ones are not worth having except for (slow) tyre inflation! I've also got my old Draper 25L compressor which I can charge up and throw in the back of the vehicle for a quick tyre job, if I need a much longer hose

My point was that if the 18s fit on, surely they fit on? Surely Land Rover haven't been stupid enough to use different brakes even between different models of the same vehicle thereby making getting the correct parts a complete nightmare for the rest of time ... have they?

What's so clever about that? There are factory 18" rims aren't there? I thought the steels were 18s.

That's very misleading. I suppose they will claim that it means "it's one of only 150 made" but that's obviously not how it is intended to be read!

Absolutely right. This is true even on dry ground like that where you can lose and then regain traction without any real problem. On wet surface where wheelspin = failure, it just doesn't work well. The traction control systems are a massive improvement on nothing (my old Ranger with no traction control and limited wheel travel is completely useless off road) and they have got a lot better over 20 years of development, but the stress through the driveline from all the bouncing around and wheel spinning must dramatically shorten the life of the drivetrain. It's why I love the ATBs I have put in my 300Tdi, there is just no scrabbly wheelspin at all.

It doesn't work properly though, get loads of messages about files and paths missing. I have never downloaded unlocked versions as I have not needed them. Are they on here somewhere, or has anybody got a link?

Gimme 😎

Yes!!!

Bah - mine's knackered too. It's only a few months since I used it with no problem. It just doesn't open, the splash screen appears then nothing.

I like what I see so far. I don't really need to buy another vehicle any time soon, because I bought a late Puma as a 'spare', but I like the ethos behind this thing a lot and I might well buy one. So, now we've got a shiny new forum, how about a thread on factory options we'd like to see? For me it ticks many of the boxes already. It's built on a solid-looking suspension setup (have to wait and see if it has a decent ride off road to match a Defender, too many others are too soft or too hard). It has a decent sized engine if the 3L diesel comes along (always said the ideal combo would be the Puma with the 3.2L engine out of my Shogun). And I presume it must have better rollover protection than Defender if it is going to get certified, as that's a major issue here. Options/features yet to be confirmed? - Ability to fit oversize tyres for soft ground, min 33" dia 12.5" wide without fouling/damage, better if up to 35" dia without major mods. - Ability to fit 15" or at most 16" wheels, to retain some sidewall. - A standard hub pattern, 5x165 to match Defender would be great, if not then Jap 6 stud, for plenty of aftermarket wheels. - Factory fit options for front and rear ATB diffs or difflocks (or both). Sounds like it's possible. Proper centre difflock - of course. - Factory option for a HD front.rear bumper, ARB sort of thing, unless it already is this sort of build - Solid point to bolt a tow hitch onto both at chassis height and a drop plate. A solid 2" receiver hitch integrated into the back of the chassis would work - Solid tow point on the front - another central receiver hitch? - Option to above - an easy to fit solid winchbumper with front towing points - Strong Brownchurch-style galv ladder roof rack and roof bars - Spare wheel carrier on the door that will stand up to continuous use on rough roads - Waterproof snorkel system, not one stuck onto the wing with silicone - End-user diagnostics for remote locations + an app for a phone or tablet The starting price needs to be sensible or none of the above matters. And I want to see them bring one to the Falklands to test

Oooh now, an Ibex with one of those in....