Dezzie

Freelander problem update ...... Had the wheels balanced this morning, and apparently they were "quite-out'". However, when the car was jacked up I tried to spin the wheels. The drivers side wheel wouldn't spin, and the hub was red hot. Brake calliper jammed on ! Will get that sorted next week. Thanks for your help with this one.

Thanks guys that's great advice cheers. My first thought was a wheel bearing actually. But the noise isn't there 'all the time', only at 60mph. I've also thought C.V Joint? I've been pootling around town in it this afternoon and it drives great. But didn't go over 30mph. The noise seems to come from the Drivers side, and if I remember rightly, the IRD is over towards the left hand side of the engine. Fingers crossed it's not the IRD, or it's 'game over'. Can't really afford to get that done. No, I haven't jacked the car up yet, will have a go tomorrow when (if) it stops persisting down! I will go and have the wheel balanced tomorrow too. Thanks guys.

Hiya guys. Thanks for the replies. I never thought of the brakes, that never occured to me, so will get that checked cheers. Can't say I've noticed a 'Brake Smell', but I guess I've been 'in' the car. Certainly haven't noticed as I've got out I did notice that the centre cap is missing from the Alloy wheel. Could this have got hot? The VCU and prop were removed in 2016, and they're on the floor in my garage. Could the noise be from the IRD unit? If the IRD has gone, how would this manifest itself? Would there be clonking / rumbling / or non driveable? Thanks for your help guys. Cheers ................ Matt

Hi everyone. I've got a year 2000 L Series Diesel Station Wagon. 127,000 miles. Usually very reliable, and used every day. Apart from the usual odds and ends problems they all suffer, it drives great. It drives in 2 wheel drive, as I've taken the prop off when the rear diff imploded a couple of years ago. Right then ;- The last couple of days, on my way to work, something unusual has happened. The car is perfect up to 60mph, then a loud rumbling / vibration is heard coming from the drivers side front at 60mph. Also, when I press the accelerator, the car won't go faster then 65mph. If I drop below 60mph, the noise goes away. Plodding along at 50mph, the car is perfect. I've also noticed, that when at low parking speed it feels like the brakes are on, and the car comes to a halt quite quickly, and doesn't roll much. Hoping someone can point me in the right direction. Can't afford to change my car, and would like to keep this one ! Thanks for any replies..................... Matt (Dezzie)

Hi guys, thanks for all your help with this one. This is a strange one, and a problem you can't really predict. It turns out that a roundish piece of rust had broken away from the plate behind the disc, and wedged itself in between the plate and disc. This was what was causing the noise ! Phew ! Thought it was going to cost me a fortune, but as it turned out, it cost me 10 quid as labour to my mechanic. For the record, (not that it matters now). My propshaft is completely removed, front and rear, including obviously the VCU. The rear diff is still in place along with the driveshafts. Eventually, the plan is to have the diff replaced / reconditioned and have the Freelander put back to four wheel drive when my bank balance allows ! I think I may need the IRD reconning too, as it does whine a little. Thanks again for all your help............................... Matt

Hi guys, thanks for all the help with this. Your ideas make interesting reading. My apologies, I should have gone into more detail. About 12 months ago, my rear diff failed. (oil leaked out unbeknown to me whilst coming home from Wales). Firstly humming, then squealing, then banging clunking, grinding. To put it right, was going to be getting on for what the car was worth. My Freelander, although tidy, is nearly 17 years old so my mechanic and I made the decision to remove the prop and VCU, and run it in 2 wheel drive until such time as I could find a good 2nd hand diff, or had the money for a replacement. The diff and VCU were replaced before in 2011. I believe the VCU is OK, as it's only done about 30k since being fitted. So it's run it 2wd since end of 2015. I will have it all put back together, when funds allow. I've not noticed any 'clicking' on lock. The vehicle seems to be running quite well, apart from the noise. It's definitely a rotational metallic noise. Almost sounds as though something needs lubricating. I pressed the brake pedal, but the noise didn't alter. Fingers crossed it'll be a wheel bearing. Although I guess it could be a drive shaft. I'm frightened it's the IRD, as it might mean "Game Over" for the Freelander. Thanks for all your help and replies............................ Matt.

Hi all. I've got a Freelander Series 1, year 2000 L series Diesel. Coming home from work the other night, when I was moving along slowly in traffic, I could hear a funny noise, which sounded like it was coming from the near side front. It was a 'rotational noise' (like a hum - but not constant - so hum - hum - hum as the wheel went round) but did not stop when I pressed the brake. As I sped up, the noise seemed to disappear. This morning, the noise is much louder and sounds like a rusty bicycle being pushed along. So, like a creak - creak - creak. I'm hoping it may just be a wheel bearing, or a failed CV joint. Could this be a failed IRD unit? How would I know if the IRD had failed? I'm currently running it in two wheel drive, due to lack of funds. Thanks for any help. ........ Cheers .. ............Matt.

Hi guys. Got an L- Series diesel, year 2000, and occasionally, when the engine is warm, I get a whiff of diesel. I've taken the engine cover off, and spotted one of the the fuel hoses on the front of the engine (I think they call it the "Fuel Return Pipes") which was a bit damp. I'm guessing the fuel hose has rotted and needs replacing. I'm going to have to buy some, but what size do I need to buy? Thanks for any replies. Cheers ........................ Matt.

Hi guys. I'm trying to build up a history of my Freelander, as I exhibit my motor for the LR club I'm in. I'd love to find out a 'Production Date' for my Freelander. It was first registered in Feb 2000, and it looks like it was actually manufactured at Solihull in late '99. I've tried Googling "Freelander build date information" but can only get the year, and not the actual day it was built. Anyone know of a website I can use? Or have I got to bite the bullet and contact Land Rover Heritage and pay the 50 quid ! I've looked at those websites where you can breakdown the Chassis number, but they're never exact enough. Thanks for any help.......................... Matt.

Hi guys. Got a Freelander 1 year 2000. When I lock the car, the horn gives off a little "Bib". I obviously understand that this is built in, to tell me that there is a door or boot open. Brilliant idea! Except, - I've not got a door or boot open, or a window Car is completely shut. Please help. Before I push it into the Canal ! Is there a way I can turn this off? Thanks a lot ........................ Matt.

Hi. Not sure if you know about these. Never used them, as it's not my area. They seem to know what they're talking about. Not sure if they're expensive or not. They're over your way. http://www.freelanderspecialist.com/contact-us Hope it helps............. Matt.

Thanks Bowie69. Cheers for the reply. I'll check the hoses around the Turbo. Would I be better getting someone to sit in the car and spin the revs up to 2000rpm, whilst I stick my head under the bonnet? What am I looking for? Air escaping from a joint? Or a split hose? Something like that? Thanks for your help.

Hi guys. I have a year 2000 Freelander series 1, with the 2 litre L series Diesel. 115,000 miles. When I accelerate, I get a kind of 'whistling' / 'whining' noise. Not massively noisy, but it's there. It's really difficult to know where it's coming from. Much more apparent, when the window is open. My gearbox has been crunching as I go into 2nd recently, and I was possibly putting it down to a worn gearbox. I've checked, and there's plenty of oil in the gearbox. Was guessing a re-build was needed. However - Could the Turbo be on the way out? Having said that, there's no loss of power, and no black smoke from the exhaust. How would I know if the Turbo was at fault? Is there a sealing gasket popped or something? Thanks a lot for any help. Cheers .............. Matt.

Hi guys. Freelander series 1, year 2000, L series Diesel. This is something that has bothered me for some time, but probably seems quite a small problem, but irritating none the less! When I need to clean the screen, I pull back the lever to spray the screen.... First pull - nothing happens. Second pull - a dribble from the bonnet squirters. Third pull - a slow small flow will hit the bottom half of the screen. Fourth pull - the windscreen is sprayed perfectly. If I pull the lever once, and hold it in position, it doesn't get better. Why do I have to pull the lever back four times? Is this a faulty switch, or faulty motor? It happens if the reservoir is full, half full or nearly empty. Any other Freelander doing this? It's got me scratching my head - I can tell you! Thanks for any help. Cheers. Matt.

......Oh, sorry, I thought I'd add ..... It's only temporarily in 2WD. It will be repaired and put back into 4WD, when I've got the cash to do it. Cheers.

:DThanks a lot guys. That's a real big help, and put my mind at ease. It made interesting reading. I never thought of "Black Circles". What a saving, I can get Good-Year, for less than the price of those Marshals. Thanks lads !

Hi guys. I'm after some unbiased, impartial advice please. Need some tyres for my Freelander year 2000, 2.0 Diesel L series. I've taken the prop off, so it just runs in 2 wheel drive, after the diff went and VCU, so replacing the fronts. I've priced up a couple of places, and for 195/70 15 there are a few different prices. To replace the Marshall Aventura I've got on, they want £80.00 each tyre. However, they said I'd be better off with the Bridgestones, which were £120.00 per tyre. Original fitment was Pirelli Scorpions. I dread to think how much these would be each. This may sound like a daft question, but is it worth paying the extra cash? Are some tyres better than others? Are tyres not all the same? Do you pay more for a big name, when you don't need to? The Marshalls I've got on have lasted 6 years, and 30k miles. I'm on a bit of a budget, so the Marshall tyres are more attractive price wise. However, any recommendations are welcome. Any advice greatly received. Thank you. Matt.

Hi everyone. I keep seeing really cheap late Freelanders in the classified adverts, then on closer inspection, find out they're the V6. What are the pitfalls? Are they best avoided? Are they stupid thirsty? Is it head gaskets again? Were they only available with the Auto box? Thanks for any replies. Cheers ................... Matt.

Right then, my Freelander is making all the wrong clunks and bangs, so I guess it's time. From what I've read on here, it certainly sounds as though the VCU needs replacing (again) and the IRD is going faulty. The Diff has a leak and is now humming as it has probably run dry. (I do periodically refill it). My year 2000 L series Diesel isn't worth spending loads of money on, and at best, although a tidy specimen, would probably only fetch £1200. So, I'm going to turn it into a 2 wheel drive for a while, until such time as I can find a good Freelander at a breakers, or take it to Bell engineering and throw some money at them. My questions are as follows..... If the IRD is knackered, will it be needed on a 2 wheel drive Freelander? Or is it redundant.? If I take the prop-shaft / VCU off, will the Freelander still run fine with an IRD that's a gonner? Also ;- With the Prop-shaft missing, does the rear Diff actually do anything? Or again, is it redundant? Would it need oil in? Thanks guys.

Thanks guys, for all your help. Since my mate refilled the diff with oil, the clunking / clanging seems to have gone and the car drives perfectly. What I'm left with, is a squeeling / rattling noise, which appears to be coming from the drivers side rear wheel. This is more apparent, when accelerating, then taking foot sharply off the pedal. I'm pretty certain I've done some damage to the diff, as there is a 'humming' from the rear. However, could this rattling / squeeling be the CV Joint? Can I take the plate off the diff with the diff in situ? Or has the diff got to be removed or dropped down? Cheers ......................... Matt.

Hi everyone. The past few days, I've had some 'unusual' noises coming from 'underneath' the vehicle. Freelander Year 2000 L - Series Diesel. A sort of 'clunk' or sometimes 'clang' from the rear. Sometimes like a 'ticking' noise, sometimes a squealing, sometimes a whistling. Mostly when I turned right. However, there was no crunching or grinding. To be honest, I was thinking ...C.V Joint or Drive Shaft etc, maybe even wheel bearing. Anyway ......... My trip to work is a 30 mile round trip, so I thought I'd pop in to see my mechanic to see what it was, sooner rather than later. Whilst underneath the vehicle, we noticed that there was an oil drip from the rear Diff. He checked the C.V joints and reported them in good health. It would seem that there was no flamin' oil in the rear Diff ! . He put some oil in the diff for me, and since then, it has been quieter. The 'substance' that oozed out, was silver, which he reckoned was 'mashed up' gear oil and 'swarf'. 1/ Have I done any damage ? (there's no grinding or crunching) 2/ Can I replace the gasket on the rear diff plate fairly easily? Or is it a pain in the arse ? Does it use a gasket, or is it just that liquid stuff (Hylomar type). 3/ What type of gear oil should I use? Thanks for any help .......................... Matt.

Hi guys. Anyone know of an off the shelf GREY bumper wax ? There are loads on the market to make your 'black' bumpers shine. I could have sworn that I saw some grey bumper wax years ago, but can't remember where or what it was called. I've got 'Armour All' and plastic cleaners like that, but I want to bring the colour back. Thanks for any replies.

Hi everyone. Thanks for all the replies. Cheers Les. I'm fairly confident that the engine has been well looked after. I'm the third owner, and I know the previous owner really well (a friend of mine). Both of us have kept religiously to the service regime, and since I've had the vehicle (2010), it's been looked after extremely well, probably over the top to be honest. I only use good quality 10w 40, and the engine has now done 101,000 from new. (15 years old). However, I've taken on board what you've mentioned, and I'll look into it, thanks. Now that the warmer weather is here, the engine is much quieter in the mornings. I'll give the engine a fresh oil & filter change, and see how it goes. Cheers.

Hi Rangy35. Thanks for the reply. It never occurred to me that the oil pressure might be an issue, it may be something to think about. Although, the problem isn't there all the time, only on cold mornings and then goes away. It may be worth me having this checked though, cheers. Why do you say that about SLICK50 ? I remember using it on a car I had years ago, and it ran smoother, was quieter, a little quicker and just seemed all the better for using it.

Hi everyone. In the morning when the engine is cold, the tappet noise on my year 2000 2 litre diesel (L-Series) is awful. Once I've got 3 minutes into my journey, the engine becomes quieter, and all is fine. It's just last week clicked over to 100,000 miles, and been well serviced and cared for all it's life. When the engine was last serviced, about 3000 miles ago, I put in some decent quality 10w40 semi-synthetic, hoping to cure the problem. Obviously it hasn't. I've purchased some "SLICK - 50" friction reducer from Halfrauds. Has anyone used this or got any advice / concerns ? What's the final outcome if this doesn't work? New Tappets replaced? Or is there a 'secret' to curing the problem that I'm not aware of? I guess the problem will just get worse and worse. Thanks for any help. ............ Matt.