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  1. Thanks all for the advise and guidance. Managed to break the taper by swinging a 4.5kg sledge hammer to hit two 4lb mallets that were held on either side of the taper by a second person like anvils. Took a few swings but all four eventually gave in.
  2. Upper nut - NY214043 Lower nut - NY216043 You can likely find suitable replacements at a local bolt and nut specialist. I didn't think of organising new nuts when I ordered the replacement ball joints - just assumed that they would be included. They should arrive by the end of this week, hopefully they're in the box too but I'm pretty sure I went with Lemforder brand so unlikely...
  3. Top and bottom ball joint boots have splits in them and given that the vehicle is now 16 years old with 280,000km it's time to replace them. I've stripped it all down now (wheel, brakes, CV shaft off, etc) and just have the knuckle attached to the diff through the ball joints. What's the hot tips for separating the steering knuckle (i.e. breaking the ball joints tapered/rust bond)? I'm always weary of the BFH method. I've tried an air hammer with a ball joint separating fork and a manual one and can't get in very far before the tip of the fork fouls somewhere on the knuckle. Special separator tool (yes, I know there is a genuine Land Rover one, but is there a more accessible alternative?)? The one I have here for ball joints/tie rod ends seems to be a bit too small. My pullers, including a decent hydraulic one, just don't seem to able to fit on properly on the bottom ball joint and the top is inaccessible to them.
  4. I didn't get around to checking the wastegate arm on the weekend, ran out of time, but I ended up having the ECU tune adjusted with the software clamps for the MAF applied and the MAP range extended up to 4.80v. This has solved 90% of my issues. I have some minor stuttering and shuddering at highway speeds (above 80km/h) when attempting foot flat accelerating now. The vehicle actually looses road speed when trying this, but backing off a bit on the accelerator pedal and the acceleration picks back up. Not ideal but the vehicle is usable again now and I can drive accordingly (I rarely ever put my foot flat previously anyway).
  5. There is some really interesting reading available on http://www.discotd5.com including, if you dig deep enough, some comparisons on different tuners maps. Generally though, it would seem that previously tuners were a bit limited in what they were/could modify and due to this the electric trickery solutions came about (turbo boost boxes, dual channel variants, variants for the MAF too and modified MAFs) or physical solutions (such as disconnecting the MAF or air bypasses). It would seem that the research and investigation further into the Td5 map tuning by Paul and his associates documented on that site, has opened up the potential within the tuning to resolve these issues through the tune itself. Judging from this link https://bellautoservices.co.uk/store/td5-1-4-bar-boost-ecu-recalibration/ it looks like Bell Auto Services have adopted this for the MAP.
  6. Cheers, I have sent Jose from TD5Inside an e-mail to see if he can modify my remap tune to suit. When you say high end MAP are you referring to an uprated MAP sensor such as http://td5inside.pt/uprated-sensors or https://www.lro.com/land-rover-parts-and-gear/uprated-td5-map-sensor - which I assume would also need the remap tune adjusted for.
  7. Thanks. I will check it over the weekend and test it purely so that I'm not chasing my tail by ignoring what could be the issue, but I'm fairly certain that it's not the case for the following reasons: 1. if the wastegate was seized or partially seized the turbo charger would have more exhaust flow going through it causing it to spin faster and increased boost levels. This is not the case. My vehicle is still peaking at 21psi exactly as it has done for the last five years. For general cruising and normal drivings it's usually around 10 to to 16psi as per normal since installing the VNT. 2. If the wastegate was seized or partially causing the additional flow the IRB Developments Two (Dual) Channel Turbo Boost Box, if it was working, should have still be intercepting the signals for the MAP and MAF and ensuring that they're not going high enough to upset the ECU. I could see why on a standard TD5 a seized or partially seized wastegate would cause issues as it would result in the turbo running higher and producing more boost which if high enough would upset the ECU, but being standard it wouldn't have the electronic interception devices to prevent the ECU receiving a signal that it's too high. Anyway, I do intent to still check to eliminate it as a cause.
  8. I'm interested to know what methods others are using for the MAF issues that arise when running larger turbos/VNT/VGT or sometimes even the standard turbo with the waste gate adjusted a lot.One method I have seen but not tried myself, is the MAF bypass hose - I believe for this a secondary output is put from the air filter box to the rocker cover breather connection on the pre-turbo air intake pipe allowing some air to bypass the MAF and enter without having been metered by the MAF. Anyone had issues prior and then success using this method?Previously Alive Tuning (formerly TD5Alive) offered a modified MAF which worked. I notice that it is not listed on their website and if I recall it wasn't previously either, I think you had to contact them directly. Sadly it was based on the aftermarket MAFs and the quality was horrendous - it started separating in the first week I had it. I also had concerns about the automatic transmission as there are many stories about it acting strange or gear shifts being rough due to aftermarket MAFs which are resolved when the genuine item is installed.I then replaced this with a genuine MAF and the IRB Developments Two-Channel Turbo Boost Box (two channel as one does the MAP signal as per the other Turbo Boost Boxes available, but the second channel does the MAF signal). This has worked well since fitting and adjusting in early 2013 but recently my D2a TD5 is running crud (check out IRB Developments Td5 Dual/Two Channel Turbo Booster Box adjustable tuning instructio? for error details) and I suspect due to a failed IRB Developments Two-Channel Turbo Boost Box. I have checked the wiring loom, connections and power and earth to it. Sadly due to the black stuff they put all over the circuitry I cannot test or see if there is any issue in there.So, I'm hesitant to modify the air filter box (but probably shouldn't be as I'm sure a new lid can be easily sourced from a wrecker), have concerns on returning to the Alive Tuning MAF due to the build quality and Ian at IRB Developments is ignoring my e-mails, Facebook Messages (of which Facebook advises he has received) and What'sApp messages so I don't seem to be able to purchase a replacement and am therefore curious if in the six years that have elapsed since I last looked into this there have been any further developments or options arise? Also found Diablo Demon Tuning which offer their M.A.F. Demon Land Rover TD5 MAF controller performance tuner . I'm not sure that it actually does what I'm trying to achieve though, I think it might do the opposite? They seem to also make their version of a turbo boost box for the MAP sensor called the Boost Demon which is a quiet neatly packaged to sit next to the sensor itself with the original wiring loom plugging straight in - Land Rover TD5 performance Pro Boost controller boost box and fueling adjustment .But there seems to be no purchase options or contact details on there site to discuss further? Strange.
  9. Any advise on how to check? I'm running a Turbo Technics VGT supplied by Bell Auto Services. I have a boost gauge tapped into the inlet manifold and the boost levels are exactly as I would expect them to be with no change in normal driving. I did some diagnosing this evening and I believe that the IRB Developments Two Channel Turbo Boost Box has failed. I adjusted it significantly and it has had no effect on the readings using the Nanocom Evolution, both my MAP and MAF readings are far to high and I can't get them down by adjusting. I have checked the wiring loom, connections and power and earth to it. Sadly due to the black stuff they put all over the circuitry I cannot test or see if there is any issue in there.
  10. I wasn't able to get the instructions from Ian/IRB Developments, but a members of AULRO had a copy and forwarded them to me. For future reference for anyone else, they are: Using my Nanocom Evolution to data log while driving it would seem that both my MAF and MAP are over where they should be. I've seen above 650kg/hr reading from the MAF and then it's flashed down to O, which I suspect might be due to overload or more air through than it can read?, and the MAP reading has been well above 220kpa which I suspect is triggering the overboost issue.
  11. Morning Ian,

    I have one of your TD5 Two Channel Adjustable Turbo Booster Boxes that I purchased around 2012/2013. I’m currently having a few issues with the vehicle and am wondering if it is the box or the MAF that are the cause (as it improves when the MAF is disconnected). Are you able to please forward me the isntructions for adjusting it? I havn’t had to touch it since initially fitting and tuning 6 or so years ago and have misplaced the instructions since.
  12. Anyone have the instructions handy for adjusting/tuning the IRB Developments Dual/Two Channel Turbo Booster Box for Td5? I bought and fitted mine in around 2013 and seem to have misplaced the guidance since then (thankfully I haven't had a need to touch it). I'm currently have intermittent issues with the vehicle including surging and power cut off (suspected due to over boosting) so am trying to determine if the fault is the MAF or Turbo Booster Box is faulty or requiring adjustment.Nanocom Evolution spat out the following when I read the codes yesterday (it's been a long time since I've pulled them): (1,5) DRIVER DEMAND PROBLEM 1, (LOGGED LOW).--- (2,8) AMBIENT PRESSURE CIRCUIT, (LOGGED LOW). --- (3,5) DRIVER DEMAND PROBLEM 1, (LOGGED HIGH). --- (3,7) AIR FLOW CIRCUIT, (LOGGED HIGH). --- (4,1) INLET AIR TEMPERATURE CIRCUIT, (LOGGED HIGH). --- (4,3) COOLANT TEMPERATURE CIRCUIT, (LOGGED HIGH). --- (15,2) HIGH SPEED CRANK (LOGGED). --- (16,2) HIGH SPEED CRANK (LOGGED). --- (19,3) CAN TX /RX ERROR, (LOGGED). --- (20,2) TURBOCHARGER OVERBOOSTING, (LOGGED). --- (20,5) EGR VALVE STUCK CLOSED, (LOGGED). --- (22,1) ROAD SPEED MISSING, (LOGGED). --- (26,1) ROAD SPEED MISSING, (CURRENT). --- (27,4) INJECTOR 4 PEAK CHARGE LONG, (LOGGED). Todays code read: (3,5) DRIVER DEMAND PROBLEM 1, (LOGGED HIGH).--- (20,2) TURBOCHARGER OVERBOOSTING, (LOGGED). --- (22,1) ROAD SPEED MISSING, (LOGGED). --- (24,3) OVERBOOST HAS OCCURRED THIS TRIP, (CURRENT). --- (26,1) ROAD SPEED MISSING, (CURRENT). --- On the drive home today I pulled over while it was underpowered and disconnected the MAF sensor which instantly fixed it. Hence why I have narrowed it down to either the MAF or Booster Box.
  13. Rave specifies 230nm for the centre bolt (watts linkage pivot to rear diff), 155nm for the watts linage centre piece to the arms and 140nm for the arms to the chassis.
  14. Has anyone here had any experience with Flo-Flex bushes for the watts linkage on a Discovery 2? A member on AULRO < Watts Linkage bushes, Flo-Flex v OEM - Page 3 - Australian Land Rover Owners > purchased and attempted to fit them but found that they crushed when being tightened to the specified torque setting - apparently this occurred at only 100nM when the specified torque setting is 155nM: When contacted about torque settings for their products Flo-Flex have provided the following vague advice: Kind Regards, Rich. - flo-flex I have done a few searches and the only discussion that I have found on this product is < http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/rear-watts-bushes-266066.html > and provides little detail. I am interested to know if anyone else has had experience with the Flo-Flex watts linkage bushes?
  15. It would seem that the Britpart, AllMakes4x4 and Land Rover brand seals are all coming from the same factory - they have identical markings, design, colour etc. now. If I had a contact number for Mr Land Rover I would certainly ask them about it, but my local Land Road sales and spare parts dealer knows nothing about any of it and we're a long way from their head office...
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