Landrovernuts

If you mean the spigots at the bottom of the radiator then they are the feeds to the fuel cooler - some feed from the front (my 15p does) and some from the back with one normally blanked off. For a 200tdi you can just blank it off. Toby

I binned my TD5 temperature gauge along time ago because as you have found and even when driven by the speedo doesn’t tell you the actual temperature until it is too late! The gauge has a huge dead band at mid way so doesn’t move until about 110 deg and then shoots up! I use VDO gauges now - although not the one from your link and they work well. You need to keep the existing sender and wiring though for the ECU. I used the original pipe on the head and welded a boss to fit the new additional sender. I did try a new Britpart stub pipe but found it was porous - original was much chunkier!! Toby

I have the socks (although different to yours) and two of the T shirts - good quality too! Toby

Right - changed the crank sensor. I cleaned up the plug and the hole where the senor goes with brake cleaner, checked the wiring back as far as I can go and it started straight away but hasn't fixed it. I have checked the fuel pressure - bang on 4 bar with no air bubbles in the return (clear hose). Cylinder balance good and injectors test fired through the Nanocom and all solenoids clearly operating. I got the wife to rev it while I held a screwdriver on the rocker cover and you can clearly here a knock on cylinder 1 or 2 and getting the IR camera out again showed cylinder 1 as slightly hotter than the rest. I think the high speed crank fault code has been logged because of the missing rather than the CPS being duff but may well be wrong. On the basis of doing all the cheap options and the knocking which incidentally stops on overrun (when the injectors don't fire), I really think it in an injector. I have an injector compression tester so will whip them out, isolate the fuel pump and just make sure compression on all cylinders is equal. Who are the trusted TD5 injector specialists? I have called and emailed Hickleys but they haven't yet got back to me yet. Toby

Yes, but probably won’t know which one until they are tested. I have already put an IR gun on the exhaust manifold and done the Nanocom test on the injectors and you can hear the solenoids work but that doesn’t test the fuel side. The engine starts instantly and sounds fine at idle but you can feel the misfire in the gearstick. As the revs rise it is unmistakable.

I am doing the crank sensor tomorrow when I can hopefully pick one up from Brookwells but not too much left to do other than injectors that would cause a distinct misfire.

Right - I got some time this morning to have a look at the Landy. I have changed the the injector loom but unfortunately this is not the problem. I did momentarily run it with the rocker cover off - the cam chain doesn't half pump some oil out!!! It did show all the valves and injectors operating correctly and I didn't find anything else untoward. I went around the block and this time the engine is properly cutting out totally for a split second then continues to run. This cutting out increases with how much welly it is given and at idle appears to be running on five cylinders although you can feel a distinct misfire on the gearstick. When it cuts out the MIL light comes straight on with the same 15.2 High Speed Crank (logged) fault code. I think I need to get a new crank sensor next.....then possibly injectors ☹️

I am going to get the upgraded injector harness later today but won’t know until the weekend if that works. Toby

The injector balances were between +3 and minus -3 at a max - not bad! Toby

I forgot to mention there is also no smoke at all. Toby

Evening All We went out in the 110 earlier and all was good for about half an hour then it started sounding and feeling like it was dropping a cylinder and you could feel it rough on the gearstick. I slowed down and at idle it didn't sound quite right but pulled well up to 2000RPM then massive droning, and roughness as it drops a cylinder (I think). I drove home slowly and about a mile from home the MIL light came on. Got it in the garage and very quickly plugged the Nanocom in to see what was logged listed (below): 10.6 MIL Lamp Drive Open Load - logged 10.7 GlowPlug Lamp Open Load - Logged 15.2 High Speed Crank (logged) I did notice the mass air flow reading was down to 58 and usually reads around 65 (air flow meter is about a year old and Continental) but may be because a cylinder is not firing. There is not much I can do before next weekend because of work, but thinking crank sensor is on the way out. It does start instantly and always has started instantly. I put an infrared camera (FLIR) on the exhaust manifold in case I could see one cylinder playing up but it showed uniform temperature across its length. I used to use this method for finding cylinders down on truck and marine engines and normally works well! Does a crank sensor on a TD5 fail as a misfire - I must admit that I thought they normally worked or not? I will order an injector loom this week and fit as they are relatively cheap and something to rule out. I pulled the ECU plug and it is clean - no oil what so ever and never has been. Anyone else have any ideas for me to mull over until I get to it next weekend? If it helps it has been running well for years now and only yesterday was pulling trailer loads of logs like a train - may be that was the signal something was going to go wrong!! Toby

Definitely a completely flat line on the garage doors - thanks chaps! Toby

Please help - I have googled and searched on here but seem to be getting conflicting answers!!! Right, I have a 110 TD5 and doing a quick trip to France (missing emissions sensitive areas!). The headlights are E marked LEDs ( I don't believe they are Chinese but every possibility) but I cannot for the life of me find out if I need to put the antidazzle stickers on and if so in what position. I can find instructions for clear lens type (angel eye type) and line patterned lens. I have put the vehicle in my garage and turned the lights on and the beam is a continuous flat line - so wondering if I really need to fit the stickers? Also I am wondering whether to just fit some stickers somewhere in an effort to appease French plod!! I have used Eurolights before and everyone still flashed me so something was wrong! I have a brand new pack of Eurolights here but the instructions are very vague - at least I think they are!! Toby

Not a very good picture but it is off a 2.3 and 2.6 rover vitesse and stolen from EBay! Looks pretty thin if you can make it work. Toby

Are the old Rover Vitesse fans not multibladed and very thin. May be this can be flipped for the correct rotation? Toby

Exactly that - as Ralph says. Toby

If you look at this picture of my galvanised TD5 chassis (you may need to expand the picture) you can see the bracket above the main chassis rail on the off side. The near side is the same - you just cannot see it. Toby

Nige - are you sure you don’t work on Salisbury axles?!! 🤣🤣

I have the LOF solid flywheel and clutch kit and so far cannot tell any difference between it and the DMF. No noise, no vibration (if anything I would say smoother) and so far no more spigot issues. I am aware of the issues of solid flywheels as I am a marine engineer but so far I am more than happy. My 110 works quite hard and is normally towing trailers of logs although you could argue that is what it was designed to do. I do have a disco transfer box in it to up the gearing which will load up the engine and clutch more. The DMF that I removed was fine but I had recently had to split the engine and gearbox a few times as the spigot was driving me nuts and was dragging causing hard gear changes and then the release bearing went. After 140,000 miles I thought I was on clutch/DMF borrowed time and is the reason I changed. Toby

No luck but to be honest I have not been looking.

Evening All, just seen this post and I have the exact same plastic parts sitting on my work bench after taking the front door cards off my 2002 110. Both were found in the bottom of the doors and I am still looking where they should be returned to!!! So watching this with interest…. Toby

Sounds like you need Devcon! Techsil | Devcon You can mould to shape and then it sets solid. I have seen it used for many a bodge repair on ships and can be machined after it has set. Toby

As already mentioned try the vibration dampers. If they are not the issue, the handbrake mechanism can rattle (including the shoes against the backplate if not assembled correctly) and exhaust silencers can rattle. The front exhaust flexi can also make funny noises but I wouldn’t say it was a rattle! Good luck! Toby

It was not meant to be a pissing contest! I do the loss prevention for power gen sites now and visit quite a few of the power stations around the world. Yes, the gas turbines, HRSG's and steam turbines are bigger than the ships engines. Toby

It doesn't look very big in the pictures - but it is!! Toby