Landrovernuts

I cannot give you any crane pictures but do have a large gearbox and engine - 40,000shp and torque measured in ton/meters. I did see 42,000 shp at 82 rpm and 368 ton/meters one day though!! For those interested it is a marine IHI steam turbine driving a 14meter diameter 5 bladed propeller on a supertanker (VLCC). Toby

It is Ralph and tomorrow’s job to bleed properly. Not sure where the air has come from though - will remain one of life’s mysteries.

Don’t worry - it appears it needs bleeding. Just by opening the bleed nipple I have managed to get half a pedal. It will remain a mystery where the air has come from mind as I haven’t split the hydraulics! Toby

Afternoon All I have put this in the international section as applies to Disc 2's as well - Mods please move if you deem appropriate. I have just put the engine back in my TD5 defender after changing the clutch after the release bearing started getting a tad noisy (howling when hot). I put a new arm, plastic bush and slave cylinder rod form LOF as the original rod was badly worn. I checked the rod length and ok other than the bad wear. I am at the stage where I don't want to bolt anything else to the engine in case I have a problem (only bell housing bolts in and starter on at the minute) but the issue I have is the clutch pedal only operates the clutch at the very bottom of travel - last inch or so. I have taken the slave off and got my wife to push the pedal and the slave piston only moves very slightly to start with then 10mm or so towards the end of travel, although this is hard to measure! The operating rod is sticking out approximately 40mm form the slave cylinder face on the bell housing but has 5 mm or so of slack and pushing it in you can feel the arm move and push the new release bearing into contact with the clutch fingers (if you do it quickly you can hear the "tinging" as it makes contact). If anyone is in the position to measure or knows how much the rod is meant to stick out, please can you let me know as I am getting to the stage where I may just take the engine out again but feel all seems ok inside the bellhousing. I am at a bit of a loss as the hydraulics were fine before!! Any ideas as to what is wrong would be gratefully received. Toby

I find the wire clips much better than the spring type as they actually stop the pads rattling in the calliper - which the spring type don’t!

You could try John Eales, JE Motors or V8 Developments as they are bound to have them. Toby

I had one of these bulbs in my TD5 and it produced really good light. No issues with it rotating but it did need the tangs bending out to fit as pointed out above. After about 6 months it started flicking and only coming on very dim - may be something to do with the TD5 fading the light power rather than switching straight off which is something not all LED bulbs tolerate very well. I am back with the filament candle at the minute! I should have known better - it did come in a blue box....

I did this a couple of weeks ago after I suddenly lost one of the clevis pins even though the clip was on properly. you can do this with the tunnel in just by removing the the gearstick rubber gaiter and the foam insulator. I then held the hi lo lever tight with a bungee cord and did most of it from underneath with a pair of long nose pliers. Occasionally you need to tweak from above. Having the gaitor off and the insulator out gives you much better light and visibility when working from below. Use a bit of grease to hold the bushes in position and you can do it. I can assure you though that there will be some cussing and swearing!! Toby

One of the best things I have done to my 110 was to fit the 1.2 transfer box. My TD5 has been tweaked by a former owner but pulls the gearing and our trailer well and is much quieter and nicer to drive long distance now. An overdrive would be better but was too expensive!

When I did my td5 fuel pump (I went the hatch way) I needed a new locking ring as my one was rusted right through and broke when I tried to get it undone. I would get a new one before you start!

Yes after this time it is still doing it but has not let me down yet. I did think starter, but this is doing it before the starter is turning - when the glow plugs are warming up.

I have done a few TD5 water pumps now including my own one and find it much easier to undo the whole auxiliary housing and remove from the engine. It is easy to get off but if you do take it off, remember to get a new seal. I have had one that no matter what way I tried to get the pump out it wouldn’t and two others have broken the bolt close to the engine which is a bit of a sod to get to anyway! Toby

Not that it matters now as you have left the mud shield off, but this is how my one looks like and think you were right the first time. Something else must be wrong if it was binding. Toby

It’s different because it is a Salisbury axle on the back end of a 110 of that age. I hope you counted how many turns the nut turned before it came off?

I have to agree with Chicken drumstick here, I have had two V8 90's both were tuned with one having a 3.5 (Boxer set up) and the other a V8 developments 4.3 EFI engine (Raised compression, stage 3 heads, H218 camshaft and remapped). They both had 265 tyres and 1.22 TBoxes (original was 1.192 27D on V8 90's) (and LT85 gearboxes) and while they were good on the motorway 5th gear was just an overdrive cog and not much use for anything else even with the 4.3. I remember having to change transfer boxes and fitted a spare 1.4 which made a hell of a difference in that it felt bloody quick, put a big smile on my face and was actually slightly better on fuel. Cruising on the motorway was not bad either and not actually not that far off my RRC (1990). If it were me again, I would fit a 1.4 TBox especially in a 110 but realise it is down to preference and what you will use it for. You can put the figures into the Ashcroft calculator and see what works best for you. Toby

While your injector loom does need replacing, I think you are getting fuel run back when you park it on your slightly up hill drive. Try replacing your fuel filter housing and think it will be fine. I think you can get the fuel non return valve separately now but unsure how well they work. Toby

Found it Ralph - they have put the gearbox back with the loom running down the wrong side of the selector housing! So the tail with the plug on was on the wrong side. It is not the only thing they messed up... Toby

Thanks Ralph, I am going to have another look tomorrow as the light worked until the gearbox was done and know the plug is up there somewhere! I must have pulled the cables as I have lost the diff lock light now and that work yesterday!! Toby

Hi All I have just had my gearbox replaced with a nice Ashcroft version after I lost 5th gear. I have had a few issues since which I have sorted out but I have found out my reversing light is not working - just when I needed it. I have found the switch with its 4" of so wire and plug coming out the 5th gear extension case but cannot find the other plug to attach them together. I have to admit that the weather was rubbish (and still is) so I didn't preserve, so can anyone let me know it it comes out the main loom (engine) that comes over the top of the transfer box and enters the seat box? Or is it one of the other looms or give me a clue to where it is as I am cold and wet now and the reversing light not working is annoying me!! Thanks! Toby

I had some brand new BFG KO2's sent back not long ago as they could not balance them - they tried several times and checked the rims for straightness. There was no problem with the previous Goodyear duratracs. The symptoms were death wobble between 40 and 50mph, but to be fair to the tyre company, I said I would do the preloads first just in case. I fitted new upper pins and bearings and set them slightly tighter than specified and it made sod all difference. New tyres fitted and death wobble very much reduced, but not eliminated, so don't rule out the tyres just because they are BFG! Toby

Same here Ralph - I drove up and picked it up. I have never been asked either and I even took the old chassis leg with the number on for the first MOT after if had been fitted. Toby

You get one if you ask. I just wanted everything in order and have it all on file in case I got asked about the chassis change at any time. It also helped when the installer claimed the chassis was out of spec until I found out he was measuring it with a wooden ruler!!! Turns out the chassis is spot on and now know the installer was a complete dipstick. It took me ages to fix his other cock ups! Toby

For what it is worth my declaration of conformity was actually a declaration of authenticity! Toby STATEMENT FOR DEFENDER GKN SIGNED EMAIL 2015.pdf

I got a GKN declaration of conformity certificate with my Marsland chassis a couple of years ago.

On my TD5 it is plumbed into the fuel cooler circuit. The additives leach out of pellets in the filter slowly over a period of time. The kits seem very expensive - try looking for scrap Cummins engines (C series or bigger - the 6b doesn’t have them as they are not wet liners) and take the head off one of these. Toby