Landrovernuts

I have never seen a boost pump fitted in conjunction with the coolant filters even on the original fitment. I just tee into any suitable sized pipes such as bleed lines and is relatively easy. On my V8 I machined some reducers from some ally bar as the connections on the filter head are quiet big (I cannot remember the size off hand) but all simple stuff. Ideally they should be mounted so the filter hangs down to stop air locks, but I have had no issues with it as it is. If you Google truck coolant filter , I am sure it will find loads of information. Toby

Not sure if this is any use to anyone, but I have run a coolant filter on all my land rover engines which stops all this sludge build up in the cooling system. Not only does it filter the coolant but replenishes additives in the coolant. These are fitted to many truck, generator, marine engines etc and were originally fitted to keep DCA levels correct to stop cavitation on the backs of wet liners. You could argue that it is overkill on small diesel engines but it really keeps the coolant system very clean. Many of the coolant filter heads are integral with the engines now, but my one came from a Cummins 855 engine that was being scrapped out a fishing boat after it self destructed (fishermen don't believe in maintenance!) and will easily fit into land rover cooling circuits. There are two filter sizes - I just use the smaller one and change every two years. Toby

Anyone know the part number for the rubber grommet which fits around the air conditioning water drain pipe on a 2002 TD5 Defender? It is the one that goes through the passenger footwell on the angled section with the pressed stiffener ribs and exits right behind the front wheel (stupid place!). I am moving my drain due to the rubbish position and the rust that has formed around the hole. Thanks.

The tyre place had a good look and can find no impact or squishing but you never know what happened to them in transit to be fitted. As you say at least they are being decent enough to replace them. Toby

Just to update, it looks like the BFG's are going back with a manufacturing defect in one and suspected in the other!! The tyre fitters are struggling to balance them and have moved them around the rim a few times with no improvement. They are balanced at the moment but have two rows of weights and four high on each side of the rim. When the tyres are on the balancing machine, they are not even round (by quite a long way) so they have given up and getting two new ones for me. The rims have been checked and are apparently fine, so suppose that is decent enough that they are being changed with no argument but you don't expect this issue from BFG! I like them other than the wheel wobble! Toby

I paid £344 for two BFG K02 (265) fitted. They did also swap a tyre on a series 1 rim for me to - so may be not so bad? Toby

For my tuned 4.2 when I had it, I used a discovery/rangie 3.9 radiator which has a thicker core. I had this recored and when they did it made I got them to make the width less so it fits the 90/110 front. I never had any cooling problems after that. I think, I recall that the bottom pipe needs changing to 90/110 style though. I think i sent the old 90 radiator with it so they could make sure the mounts lined up and so they could reuse the bottom pipe connection and from memory it was cheap! Raysons in Taunton did it but was a long time ago. This gives you the engine oil cooler as well if you need it and old rads can be had for almost nothing and getting it back from being recored it is as good as new. Did the 5oth edition V8 not use a larger radiator? if so may be use one of those but would imagine you would need a lottery win to buy a new one and second hand they are probably rocking horse s..t! Toby

I do a fair amount of road miles and the landy is my company car for a while. So mud tyres are out and in all honesty I dont really need them. We live on the edge of Dartmoor and other than tracks, winter weather and towing that is all the off roading it does. If I do need the extra traction, I have axle diff locks that get me out of most situations although that may be a source of another post as my front one appears to have some serious slack (and knocking when taking up drive) in it but not on the crown wheel and pinion. While the Duratracs were good and ticked all my boxes, I just cannot get any so I have plumped for the BFG AT K02's but I am still wincing at the price!! They are being fitted later today as the existing Duratracs are down to 3mm and have no grip at all now. I had the older BFG AT on my 90 a considerable time ago and they were very good - I just heard the newer K02's were not as good. Time will tell! Toby

Seems to be a tyre shortage in the West Country! Most independents and chains only seem to be able to supply what the suppliers have in stock. Duratecs probably not back in the U.K. for at least a month! Toby

Well, thanks all. I got some prices for two BFG AT KO2’s yesterday and they ranged from £185 to £204 fitted Each 😮 Looks like COVID will be another reason to jack prices up then!! I may have found two Duratracs for £148 fitted each - fingers crossed!! Toby

Thanks Snagger - that’s one for the Goodrich then.

I have Goodyear Duratracs (265) on my 110 all round and they have served me very well. I need some new ones for the front, but there apparently seems to be a supply issue at the minute. While this is probably down to Covid, it is not known when they will become available again. Another option is to change to Goodrich AT but have heard some negative comments recently with the relatively KO2 tyres. These are also more expensive! I know that what one person thinks is not what everyone else thinks but what are the general opinions of the KO2 and should I persevere trying to get the Duratracs - which I like? Toby

Cannot believe that I am writing this as I am colour blind, but it looks the same colour as my Landy which is Epsom Green. Obviously take that with a pinch of salt!! Toby

+2 for Magnecour. They were the only leads that allowed me to go wading without even a misfire (this was a 4.2 with a distributor) - the engine would regularly run in water like this, with the fan spraying it everywhere without even a misfire. Lucas leads and many of the others would just breakdown after a short period of time and would stop dead at the first sign of water. When I spoke to the chaps at Magnecour, they almost guaranteed that it was the longer leads that were failing, but forget why. Toby

Hi All Just thought I would share this with you as I believe it to be a unresounding success! Like a number of other TD5 owners (discovery and defender), I would get a harshness between 2000 rpm and 2500 rpm which has taken me ages to get to the bottom of. I have read all sorts on the tinterweb and forums but started looking into this abit more with my vehicle (2002 110 TD5 double cab). The exhaust is a genuine parts exhaust but the down pipe was a Britpart only because I needed the vehicle on the road and the flexy self destructed one day. I was convinced it was the exhaust that was the culprit and have in the past replaced the flywheel, engine mounts etc. I have even heard that is is a TD% design feature and all sorts of other tosh and was sure it was somthing simple. I even tried running it with only the downpipe in place which was deafening but revealed absolutely no harshness in my 2000 rpm to 2500 rpm window - this confirmed I was going in the right direction. A few weeks ago I replaced all the exhaust hanger rubbers which altered the harshness bit didnt get rid of it. I had the day off yesterday and thought I would have a play in my new workshop (warm and dry!!). I took the Britpart down pipe off and while laying on the ground next to the original down pipe it became very obvious that the flexy was too small for the pipe and the pipe had been tapered to weld the flexy to. Checking the old pipe revealed that the internal diameter of the Britpart exhaust was 30% smaller than the original (original pipe ID 2551.8mm2 verses the Britpart 1809.5mm2)!! I purchased 2 stainless clamp on flexys on ebay (standard length) and started to chop the original downpipe around (I was going to use the Britpart one until I saw the dimension issues). I did make a mistake and bought 63mm flexy sections but you 60mm ID if you are going to do this. So I fitted one new flexy to the normal position and also one to the back section near the silencer flange. I did it here as there is a suitable straight section but also because there is a mounting rubber in the middle which would stop any excess pipe movement. I went for a drive this morning in the floods and hey presto the harshness has gone completely and what is also very noticeable is that there is much less turbo lag - it is pulling much sooner which probably is excess back pressure on the turbo from the Britpart flexy. My flexy's at least maintain the internal diameter of the exhaust which obviously makes a big differance on a TD5. I wont take the centre silencer out for even less back pressure as I like the relative silence on the motorway (1.22 TB also helps here!). Ignore the fact the flexy slips are leaking slightly (I will sort later this weekend) but you can see where the new flexy is and how small the Britpart flexy is in the pictures. Whether it is just better flexy's or the fact I have two fitted now is open to debate but I am rather chuffered with my simple and cheap fix. Just out of interest the two new stainless flexys are stiffer than the Britpart one. Third photo is both my toys in their new dry surroundings.

Does anyone know if this type ARB compressor (not my one) can be mounted on its side? My one used to be fine (when mounted upright) and now has stopped pumping up since moving it to on its side in another vehicle- I expect the valves are ball type and loose! Toby

I also have a 1.22 transfer box in my 110 TD5 double cab and agree with above that it is one of the best things I have done to it. I tow with mine and it pulls 5th gear easy. The only time I need low range is when pulling away with a loaded trailer on a steep hill, but then that is what low ratio is for. It is much quieter on the motorway and sometimes when not pulling a trailer, I find that i could do with another gear! As for being chipped - my engine is chipped but I have no idea to what level and would say would be good in a 90 even if it is not chipped as it is lighter although still has the barn door aerodynamics. Toby

Yes, only just started doing this and while it is not a problem yet (other than the slow starting) , I am just thinking it may become a problem!! The rev counter was definetly fitted by LR - I have a recepit for it and it has never done the self check thing before. The rev counter is also working fine. I am thinking I may just get a sensor as spare and wait for it to fail - since it stops the engine dead. I have a spare glow plug timer and will try it just to see what happens just to see, as you say, there may be a switching glitch. Toby

That is what mine is doing at the moment starting wise but without the errors on the Nanocom. I am of the same opinion about it is working or not but cannot help thinking something is causing the interface on the rev counter. I was thinking about trying a new one until I saw the prices of genuine new ones. Can anyone vouch for the Intermoto ones? Toby

I have noticed recently that while waiting for the glow plug light to go off in the mornings just before a cold start that my rev counter is slowly flicking up to 1000 rpm and then going back to zero. I am assuming that the rev counter (genuine, fitted by dealer when vehical was brand new) is triggered by the crank sensor (via the ECU) and is probabaly on its way out? Engine runs fine with no faults up on the Nanocom, but is slow to start when cold. Anyone had issues like this, before I splash out on a crank sensor? Toby

There is a small bit on fitting one of these Provent 200 to a TD5 in the link below but other than periodically draining some oil off does not come to any real conclusion: http://www.goingbush.com/defender.html I have heard good reports in that they really do stop oil carry over from the breather but you do need to either plumb the oil back into the sump or drain it off. You also need to replace the filters every so often. - something to consider. Toby

Thanks all for the replies and offers. At the moment not doing anything as I am back in South Africa working. I still need to get the engine running right on the existing Solex before I start doing any playing around and this will have to wait until I have fixed a CV on my 110 first!! One thing i have found out is that this SU is actually bigger than then the original Solex. The SU is rated for 110 CFM but as yet have not found out what the CFM for the Solex is. As for the spindle bushes, they feel fine but I would strip down first and check it all before i fitted it. Toby

It’s a series 1 engine - 1997 ioe engine. The SU carb from a P4 engine was considered an upgrade (along with the alloy head)

I was surprised how old it was and the size was a concern but it is the same size as the Solex that is on there at the moment. Not sure how the CFM compares though. The float chamber is fixed on this and definitely is a downdraught. I have had the previous engine running with it but that had other issues that were not going to be fixed in a hurry! It is only food for thought at the minute as the Land Rover has other issues from being laid up since 1992. Toby

Thanks - may be the dashpot oil filling point is original after all! Toby