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=jon= last won the day on February 17

=jon= had the most liked content!

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About =jon=

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    Old Hand

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    N. Wilts Wilderness....

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  1. The oil coolers I've seen as part of the rad before have been for an auto box, and not rated for high pressure engine oil. Not saying that's how the disco is, but worth checking before splashing out!
  2. We are running what appears to be the standard v8 rad, and the plan is to get it flow checked while it's all apart. The cooler we have is pretty small (8" x 4" or so, off the top of my head) so it's not going to make a massive difference anyway, I'll probably look at a beefier one and a stat to help with warm up times then...
  3. We are running a later P38 4.6 setup. The current plan is to run a Mocal remote take off place (part number TOP1C) with a remote filter head. I've got some M20 x 1.5 plugs coming which we will block the cooler ports with. Debating about what to do with the oil cooler - on the 3.5 it was inline with the filter, but from what I've read on here the oil doesn't run particularly hot anyway, so may either put a stat on it or just not bother entirely..
  4. I found this pic posted elsewhere on here - it looks like if you have the factory cooler there are special fittings which divert some/all of the oil through the cooler - without these I'm not sure how much oil would go to the remote filter if you used those ports:
  5. Thanks. Looks like a remote filter head as lo-fi linked as above is the best option. I've already got an oil cooler and a remote filter head, but it's previously been plumbed in without a stat - I might look at adding a stat in as well to help with warm up times It looks like Fridge looped the oil cooler hoses using M20 x 1.5 fittings from his thread Edit - just found this - looks like the ports can be blanked : https://www.v8forum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7310
  6. Hi I've found some threads but not a definitive answer - what's the 'best' way to sort out the oil system when fitting a serp v8 into a defender (factory v8, if it makes any difference)... It doesn't like you can use the standard filter, as it may hit the axle. Take off pump cover plates from earlier models don't fit the cross bolted block. It doesn't look like you can get a bolt on remote filter plate for cross bolted blocks so you have to use a spin on sandwich plate / take off. There are oil cooler ports on the block already - do you just loop these, or run the to the cooler and another pipe run to the remote filter, or could you fit a cover plate (ie. https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/s/oil-system/cover-plates) over the filter housing and run a remote filter + cooler straight from these? Confused of Wiltshire!
  7. I did a bit of research when I was buying my L322 about getting a petrol (ford/Jag) v8 engined one and adding LPG. From what I could gather, they suffered quite badly from valve seat recession problems when run on LPG, even with flashlube. I also read that even running petrol only they could suffer, although at much higher mileages. One of the specialists offered a revalved/seated head with harder materials for running on LPG.
  8. Sorry - the britpart one wasn't advertised as stainless, and it 'works', but it's just not great. I was after a better one... Have found a stainless one at Rimmer: https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-LR199 Which looks a bit better, but I'm not sure if anyone on here has tried it yet (I know need4speed bought one, but I don't think his landy is back on the road yet)
  9. Hi I'm after a decent quality RRC v8 Stainless Y pipe - the bit that goes from the cast manifolds back. I'm currently using NTC7320 from Britpart, but the quality is utter carp: https://www.devon4x4.com/ntc7320-exhaust-front-pipe-358758.html Where each of the pipes merges they are basically squashed in half which must hurt flow, , the slip joints needed welding to stop them leaking and it's starting to rust out even though it's only a couple of years old. Any suggestions for decent off the shelf stainless ones? ISTR one of the manufacturers did one as part of a sports exhaust package but I can't find it at the moment... Thanks Jon
  10. The Lego one will probably have better build quality too
  11. https://jalopnik.com/sure-looks-like-lego-leaked-the-2020-land-rover-defende-1835745122
  12. There are a lot of chinese made rods floating around - in general they seem to be OK, although they may require fettling - sometimes the little ends may need reaming a little to fit the pin through, stuff like that.. Most of them seem to be made in the same factory then random names are slapped on the side. My other 'toy' other than the defender is a mk1 MX5, which has a rather large aftermarket turbo sat on the side of it running 'somewhat' more power than standard. We rebuilt the engine using chinese rods with no issues at all, and there's a LOT of people who have done the same with mazda engines (including with the brand you linke)... The general consensus is if you want the absolute best and budget is no issue (ie. race motor or crazy crazy power), then you can pay the extra for the really exotic rods from a brand name, but for a normal road car the chinese ones are fine...
  13. My 322 (with the 6 speed auto) used to do a very similar thing with the gearbox - it would roll up to a junction in second, you'd put your foot down there'd be a pause then a massive driveline thump as it dropped to 1st and pulled away. Very un-RR like. There was a software update for it via GAP, but to be honest it didn't make much difference...
  14. Does it have the adaptive dampers? If it's a similar setup to the full fat RR, there's an adaptive damping recallibration that you can do with an IID Tool (may need the beta firmware on it)..
  15. =jon=


    I *think* the overheating is in the BMW engined ones - they ran very hot as standard so any cooling system issues would push them over the edge.. In the guides on fullfatrr.com the jag petrol engined ones are supposed to be a lot more reliable than the diesels (apart from the 5.0 SC with it's cam tensioner issues).
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