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=jon=

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=jon= last won the day on February 17

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About =jon=

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    N. Wilts Wilderness....

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  1. https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-ERR6434
  2. The P38 manifolds will end up exiting towards the bulkhead, so would need chopping / adjusting to get them to clear. 3.9 RRC Auto manifolds & Y pipe will bolt straight up, and come very close to lining up with the standard exhaust system. I have 3.9 manifolds / Y and a TD4 back section on my v8. Not sure how close they are are to the clutch slave as mine's an auto, but there's a few people that have done the same conversion on here who should be able to advise. It's quite close to the starter on the other side, but you can get heat shields from the RRC which help.
  3. Not sure if that was for me or not - it's an already complete setup that was pre-made when I got the car, we are just swapping it from one engine to another...
  4. HoSS mounted the coil packs on the back when he did the conversion on what's now my 110 - there's a flat plate across the back behind the inlet (from memory it may mount via two existing tapped holes on the thor inlet) with the 2 coil packs mounted to that. I'll probably be down with the car / engine at the weekend, I'll try and remember to take pics. It's all out at the moment as a 4.6 is going in
  5. The oil coolers I've seen as part of the rad before have been for an auto box, and not rated for high pressure engine oil. Not saying that's how the disco is, but worth checking before splashing out!
  6. We are running what appears to be the standard v8 rad, and the plan is to get it flow checked while it's all apart. The cooler we have is pretty small (8" x 4" or so, off the top of my head) so it's not going to make a massive difference anyway, I'll probably look at a beefier one and a stat to help with warm up times then...
  7. We are running a later P38 4.6 setup. The current plan is to run a Mocal remote take off place (part number TOP1C) with a remote filter head. I've got some M20 x 1.5 plugs coming which we will block the cooler ports with. Debating about what to do with the oil cooler - on the 3.5 it was inline with the filter, but from what I've read on here the oil doesn't run particularly hot anyway, so may either put a stat on it or just not bother entirely..
  8. I found this pic posted elsewhere on here - it looks like if you have the factory cooler there are special fittings which divert some/all of the oil through the cooler - without these I'm not sure how much oil would go to the remote filter if you used those ports:
  9. Thanks. Looks like a remote filter head as lo-fi linked as above is the best option. I've already got an oil cooler and a remote filter head, but it's previously been plumbed in without a stat - I might look at adding a stat in as well to help with warm up times It looks like Fridge looped the oil cooler hoses using M20 x 1.5 fittings from his thread Edit - just found this - looks like the ports can be blanked : https://www.v8forum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7310
  10. Hi I've found some threads but not a definitive answer - what's the 'best' way to sort out the oil system when fitting a serp v8 into a defender (factory v8, if it makes any difference)... It doesn't like you can use the standard filter, as it may hit the axle. Take off pump cover plates from earlier models don't fit the cross bolted block. It doesn't look like you can get a bolt on remote filter plate for cross bolted blocks so you have to use a spin on sandwich plate / take off. There are oil cooler ports on the block already - do you just loop these, or run the to the cooler and another pipe run to the remote filter, or could you fit a cover plate (ie. https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/s/oil-system/cover-plates) over the filter housing and run a remote filter + cooler straight from these? Confused of Wiltshire!
  11. I did a bit of research when I was buying my L322 about getting a petrol (ford/Jag) v8 engined one and adding LPG. From what I could gather, they suffered quite badly from valve seat recession problems when run on LPG, even with flashlube. I also read that even running petrol only they could suffer, although at much higher mileages. One of the specialists offered a revalved/seated head with harder materials for running on LPG.
  12. Sorry - the britpart one wasn't advertised as stainless, and it 'works', but it's just not great. I was after a better one... Have found a stainless one at Rimmer: https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-LR199 Which looks a bit better, but I'm not sure if anyone on here has tried it yet (I know need4speed bought one, but I don't think his landy is back on the road yet)
  13. Hi I'm after a decent quality RRC v8 Stainless Y pipe - the bit that goes from the cast manifolds back. I'm currently using NTC7320 from Britpart, but the quality is utter carp: https://www.devon4x4.com/ntc7320-exhaust-front-pipe-358758.html Where each of the pipes merges they are basically squashed in half which must hurt flow, , the slip joints needed welding to stop them leaking and it's starting to rust out even though it's only a couple of years old. Any suggestions for decent off the shelf stainless ones? ISTR one of the manufacturers did one as part of a sports exhaust package but I can't find it at the moment... Thanks Jon
  14. The Lego one will probably have better build quality too
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