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=jon= last won the day on February 17 2019

=jon= had the most liked content!

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About =jon=

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    Old Hand

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  • Location
    N. Wilts Wilderness....

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  1. I went to the Reading branch at about 9.15 today (sshhhh, don't tell work!) - they had an empty box on the shelf, and no pricing details or a 'spot' for it on the display... I took the empty box to reception and they went and got me one from the back.. So if you can't spot them it's probably worth asking...
  2. I have one in the back of the car as well.... Along with a cheap 10m air hose reel, socket set, mixed washers, etc etc etc
  3. Air in the system manifested itself on mine as 'lumpy' steering - turning from lock to lock wasn't smooth. A few turns of lock to lock back and forth and 15 mins driving round and it bled itself. Maybe belt is slipping a bit after the stress on the system of starting up / increased draw on alternator / all fluids cold etc...
  4. Looks like the plasma cutter isn't available until Thursday...
  5. Quick heads up for those that like their toys, Lidl are launching their Plasma Cutters this Thursday in the 'middle of Lidl aisle of surprise': https://www.lidl.co.uk/en/p/diy/parkside-plasma-cutter/p29579 They've been available on the continent for a while and there's a few reviews out there which are mainly positive..
  6. Hi All Ever since I've had the 110 the handle to open the boot door has been incredibly stiff... The initial lift of the handle for the first quarter of an inch or so is OK, but then when it engages with the mechanism to undo the door it requires a *lot* of upwards push. I've tried feeling oil into it but it's not helped.. I seem to remember reading somewhere that they tend to get heavy when they are worn out - but is there anything else to try (other than stronger arms ) before looking for a replacement?
  7. I used a cheap one from ebay on the 90 - it worked OK once installed. From what I remember it was a bit of a faff getting the actuators to sit in the right places but not too bad. The 110 has a similar kit, one of the pushrod connectors (that joins the solenoid rod to the LR lock/unlock rod) corroded away, so has since been bodged but the kit works fine...
  8. I've got the bits to fit the LR original electric window mechanisms to mine, I've jut not got round to it yet (it's been on my list for about 5 years!) There's a guide from one of the magazines that walks through it - https://issuu.com/mobilecentre/docs/lrm_electric_windows
  9. There's a few things that a gas ECU can do that MS1/2 cannot - different stoich values for gas / petrol map, gas pressure / temp compensation, coping with wildly different injector dead times, auto fuel switching, that kind of thing. Probably nothing that wouldn't stop you from getting it working, but it's not as simple as it sounds. You can do it in MS3, which even has a settings for injector switching via relays, but very few people on here are running MS3...
  10. One thing to bear in mind for anyone about to attempt this: Technically the injector doesn't care, but the owner may in the future.... If you ever want to fit a multipoint LPG kit, this has to be connected on the negative side of the injector. If you try and connect it to the positive side, it won't work... So my advice would be: Pick a standard for when you put the injector plugs on. Then write it down There appears to be two manufacturers ways of wiring it up: Standard : Pin 1 Positive, Pin 2 Negative Inverted : Pin 1 Negative, Pin 2 Positive (Wiring loom side, I believe pin 1 is to the right when looking at the back of the connector with the metal clip at the top). It looks like LR use the Inverted standard from the factory. It may save you a lot of faffing around in the future. You can guess how I know this! 🙄
  11. No, the text is different and some of the details are the same - eg. thicker metal and a few other bits and bobs... I'm not in the market enough to want to waste their time by calling them to ask for specifics - new chassis and bulkhead are very much long term plans, hence the idle curiosity if anyone else knew - I know there have been a few threads about bulkheads in the past..
  12. It's not clear from the description - they sell Shielder chassis, along with Richards / Marsland etc, but there's no brand name associated with the bulkheads, and the blurb insinuates that they make them themselves... I know a few people have had big problems with Shielder bulkheads, just wondering if these were any better!
  13. Hi All Idly pricing up options for a galv chassis and bulkhead, and it appears that Terrain Tech are now making their own bulkheads from scratch: https://www.terraintechparts.com/collections/land-rover-bulkheads-galvanised-defender-series-bulkheads It doesn't look like they are anyone else's rebranded, but looking at the Shielder site suggests that Terrain Tech are one of their main distributors... Does anyone know if it's just Shielder under a different name? Some of the details are different - eg. 1.5mm vs 1.6mm thickness and a few other bits and pieces... Wondered if anyone had any experience of them.. Jon
  14. FWIW in case anyone else is trying to figure stuff out... I reckon the throttle pull is approx 1.5" / 3.8cm. I reckon the kickdown pull is about 1cm longer, from slack until you get over the 'click' to indicate kickdown - so 1.9" / 4.81cm Next plan is to see if I can rig up another pulley on the thor throttle body of about the right size to mean you get kickdown at about wide open throttle... Looks like someone else had a similar issue, but has access to a lathe and more resources/skill than me! https://discoweb.org/index.php?threads/bosch-intake-on-a-d1.96998/
  15. =jon=

    TD5 to V8

    I think only the cat Y pipes have lambda bosses in them - neither of my ones did. We ended up putting a boss in the TD5 rear section after the Y ourselves..
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