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=jon=

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=jon= last won the day on February 17 2019

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    N. Wilts Wilderness....

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  1. It appears that it was a failing coil pack - realised I had a misfire on LPG under load which was traced back to a failing coil pack. It's early days but it appears to have also cured the hot restart issues.
  2. If you do away with the vacuum entirely, you may find you end up with oil leaks - on my fresh built 4.6 with the breathers setup incorrectly it would force oil past the crank pulley seal after extended high revs. Changing to the factory 4.6 setup (air drawn in from air filter on n/s bank, through engine, o/s with restrictor and spiral separator to inlet post throttle) cured it.
  3. Nope - I don't have MAT / CLT correction setup yet - still trying to figure out if it's a heatsoak issue or something else. That it consistently starts/dies then cranks then starts/runs makes me wonder if it's something else. What sort of settings have you got setup if you don't mind me asking, has to be worth a try...
  4. My percentages may be off as I have a feeling my req_fuel is not that accurate, as I was working off a map that was on the vehicle when I got it, rather than working from scratch, and it's also gone through various iterations as it's been upgraded from MS2 to MS3 and things like incorporate AFR Target enabled. For my columns I have 500, 750 (which is about the target idle) and then 1100 - but I may have a bigger table than you as I seem to remember you are on MS1?
  5. I've been following the MS vs. other ECUs a bit, not so much for the landy, but for my other pet project which is a turbo'd MX5 - currently it's running a derivative of MS3 (a licenced plug and play mainboard wired for the mazda ECU plugs with an MS3 processor card). It works, and there's good support for getting it properly tuned, but some things are not great compared to the newer competition from people like Haltech. Even more so when you look at the non MS3Pro units which still use crappy DB37 connectors rather than proper automotive waterproof connectors, but are close to the same cost as the lower end alternatives. On the US MX5 forums where megasquirt is/was the standard, a lot of people are looking to move away as the MS development seems to have stagnated, or 'common' features like DBW and long term trim tables have been in beta forever, or firmware niggles are never resolved (or massively broken between releases), and the source code isn't open to let the community fix them any more. The common alternatives are Haltech - although from what I understand their CAN implementation is closed to third party integration which may limit options, Link, who have been around forever or MaxxECU who seem to be fairly new but can also do transmission control, including the BMW DSG gearboxes which are gaining popularity for swaps. There's also people like Syvecs, Motec who are more motorsport biased..
  6. I was guessing on heat soak as well, as the underbonnet temps get very toasty on a v8 defender (40+C easily). What's really confusing me is the second lot of cranking where it won't even try and fire, then that it will fire immediately on the third go. Hence I'm wondering if it's something really odd like a bad relay or a megasquirt bug...
  7. Hi Trying to nail down a delayed hot restart issue, just wondering if anyone has any bright ideas... MS3 running EDIS & Thor injection. Starting sequence is pretty much sorted. At pretty much any engine temperature I can stop the running engine, and it will restart within a few cranks and run happily. However from a delayed hot restart - stop hot engine, leave it for 5-10 minutes, try and restart and the following will happen: 1st turn of the key it will fire, then immediately die. By immediately, I mean run for 1/4 of a second or so. 2nd turn of the key it will crank, crank, crank some more but not attempt to fire - even for 10 or 15 seconds or so. 3rd turn of the key it will start and run immediately, along with a cloud of unburnt petrol out of the back. This is reasonably repeatable. I've tried altering the cranking fuel and ASE up/down for the ~60-70C range that leaving the engine for 10 mins or so but it doesn't seem to make a lot of difference. I've tried disabling air temp correction when cranking and that didn't help either. It almost seems like on the second turn of the key it's not sparking, or as if the ECU isn't resetting properly. Any suggestions? I'll post the msq later when I'm on the other laptop, but wondered if anyone else had run into this before... Jon
  8. Ideally you should get it running stably on warm idle before you start looking at anything else - because WUE (and possibly ASE) are % modifiers to the main fuel map you need to make sure that your hot idle is right first. I would probably approach it as: Get it started and warmed up, no matter how rough it runs. Lock the timing to the values you are expecting at idle. Disable any corrections - EGO, idle valve etc. Set your idle speed (you will probably need to block off the IAC to do this) Tune the idle cells to either the AFR (I think mines at about 14.2) you want if you have a wideband or by ear so it's ticking over sweetly. You want to make sure that any cells neighbouring the idle cell don't have big jumps in value, as this will likely cause the idle to fluctuate as it will go lean/rich and cause the hunting. Add some load (cooling fans, turn steering etc) and make sure it stays stable and doesn't start hunting again. Blip the throttle and check it settles. Turn your EGO back on (although it should probably not be active at idle anyway) and your idle valve and check that it's all still stable at idle and when under load. Unlock the timing, check it's still ok and doesn't hunt. Again check for big variations in timing which will kick the engine speed if you end up in that cell. Normally you have a column below the idle speed with +1 or +2 to prevent stalls - not sure if Nige's basemap has this built in. Leave it overnight to cool down again. If you start up the laptop with Tunerstudio, there should be an indicator for cranking, and after start enrichment (ASE). If it's starting then running for 5-10 secs then dying, it's either too much / too little fuel or too little air. If it doesn't stall if you give it a bit of throttle, likely the latter. If it makes no difference, leave it another day to fully cool down then add some fuel to the ASE bucket for the temperature you are starting with - I'm at about 60% ASE at 15C dropping in a fairly straight line to 5%ish at 70C - with ASE running for about 10seconds. If it starts and runs until the ASE indicator goes out in tunerstudio, then it's probably WUE that needs changing. WUE I'm at about 190% at 0C, straight lining down to 100% at 70 - but tunerstudio has a WUE wizard that will set this for you.
  9. An O2 sensor should be off the shelf, as long as you get the right type - FF might be able to advise, but I'd prob just put a wideband in after the Y so you get readings from both banks not just one. In terms of WB - Innovate LC2 / AEM or Spartan 14.7 are all good. You want one with a 0-5v output, which you should be able to connect to the EGO in wire on the MS, then change the settings in Tunerstudio (Basic Settings / Exhaust Gas Settings) to tell it you have a Wideband.. You will need to be careful of ground offsets (use the same grounds and pos feed as the MS for the wideband...)
  10. I think it's the rear - that's listed as 'egoGauge' in the Tunerstudio definitions, front is 'ego2Gauge'. That said - what's your exhaust setup? Some of the v8s came with twin lambdas (one in each bank) I believe, but I think it was the cat only pipes which it appears that yours has - if so do you have 2 lambdas fitted, or have you added another boss further downstream for a single lambda? Once it's running, I'd recommend you invest in a wideband - at least then you have a reasonably accurate idea of what the fuelling is doing, rather than the narrowband which is a bit finger in the air. It will more than likely pay for itself in saved fuel costs
  11. Any chance of a copy of the .ini file as well - TunerStudio throws a wobbly and doesn't want to import it Think it's maincontroller.ini inside the ProjectCFG folder in the TS project..
  12. It's probably worth posting a copy of your .msq file - then we can see what's going on. In terms of the gauges, you can set those up however you want, even if the hardware behind the gauge doesn't exist, or to have them set 'wrong' so that the ecu gets a duff reading...
  13. Some motors have a restrictor in the bottom of the drivers side breather spigot in the rocker cover, some (later?) ones do not, and seem to just rely on the plastic spiral oil separator to act as a restriction. If there's too much restriction (ie. the spiral wotsit is full of gunk) then the engine will blow oil out of the front cover at high sustained revs (guess how I found this out!). There's a few threads about using a PCV instead of the separator as a better solution.
  14. I don't think you'd ever make it impregnable - but the more irritating you make it the less likely they are to bother, if you stop the doors being able to be unlocked with a spoon or easily opened by bending the door and opening the lock catch then it's much more of a PITA - trying to crawl through a broken window at chest high covered in broken glass is much less fun for a tea leaf and much more obvious...
  15. Just attacked this - some pointers in case anyone else runs into the same.. Removing is the easy part - circlip came out easily enough, gave the cap a prod and out it came along with a dribble of oil. Be careful when removing that no parts fire themselves at your eyes / corner of the garage / never to been seen again. O ring does appear to be 19mm x 1.5mm. Apparently you should use Viton rings to avoid the oil attacking them. The old o-ring was very hard and brittle. Reassembly is the reverse of removal - maybe if you have LR special tool number 798 (oil cap plunger installation tool) It's a fiddly job, as you have to get everything lined up or the cap binds in the bore, push it in far enough and then get the circlip on and square. If you can do this using your fingers, you are better at this lark than I am! There's just not enough space. I improvised with an 8mm socket and a couple of extension bars to push the cap in, which conveniently would wedge against the chassis rail and hold it pushed in enough that you could get to the circlip groove. That gave me enough space to get the clip on, but it still took a few goes - the clip sits in further than you expect. I just hope it's stopped leaking now!
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