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Everything posted by =jon=

  1. Not sure if that was for me or not - it's an already complete setup that was pre-made when I got the car, we are just swapping it from one engine to another...
  2. HoSS mounted the coil packs on the back when he did the conversion on what's now my 110 - there's a flat plate across the back behind the inlet (from memory it may mount via two existing tapped holes on the thor inlet) with the 2 coil packs mounted to that. I'll probably be down with the car / engine at the weekend, I'll try and remember to take pics. It's all out at the moment as a 4.6 is going in
  3. The oil coolers I've seen as part of the rad before have been for an auto box, and not rated for high pressure engine oil. Not saying that's how the disco is, but worth checking before splashing out!
  4. We are running what appears to be the standard v8 rad, and the plan is to get it flow checked while it's all apart. The cooler we have is pretty small (8" x 4" or so, off the top of my head) so it's not going to make a massive difference anyway, I'll probably look at a beefier one and a stat to help with warm up times then...
  5. We are running a later P38 4.6 setup. The current plan is to run a Mocal remote take off place (part number TOP1C) with a remote filter head. I've got some M20 x 1.5 plugs coming which we will block the cooler ports with. Debating about what to do with the oil cooler - on the 3.5 it was inline with the filter, but from what I've read on here the oil doesn't run particularly hot anyway, so may either put a stat on it or just not bother entirely..
  6. I found this pic posted elsewhere on here - it looks like if you have the factory cooler there are special fittings which divert some/all of the oil through the cooler - without these I'm not sure how much oil would go to the remote filter if you used those ports:
  7. Thanks. Looks like a remote filter head as lo-fi linked as above is the best option. I've already got an oil cooler and a remote filter head, but it's previously been plumbed in without a stat - I might look at adding a stat in as well to help with warm up times It looks like Fridge looped the oil cooler hoses using M20 x 1.5 fittings from his thread Edit - just found this - looks like the ports can be blanked : https://www.v8forum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7310
  8. Hi I've found some threads but not a definitive answer - what's the 'best' way to sort out the oil system when fitting a serp v8 into a defender (factory v8, if it makes any difference)... It doesn't like you can use the standard filter, as it may hit the axle. Take off pump cover plates from earlier models don't fit the cross bolted block. It doesn't look like you can get a bolt on remote filter plate for cross bolted blocks so you have to use a spin on sandwich plate / take off. There are oil cooler ports on the block already - do you just loop these, or run the to the cooler and another pipe run to the remote filter, or could you fit a cover plate (ie. https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/s/oil-system/cover-plates) over the filter housing and run a remote filter + cooler straight from these? Confused of Wiltshire!
  9. I did a bit of research when I was buying my L322 about getting a petrol (ford/Jag) v8 engined one and adding LPG. From what I could gather, they suffered quite badly from valve seat recession problems when run on LPG, even with flashlube. I also read that even running petrol only they could suffer, although at much higher mileages. One of the specialists offered a revalved/seated head with harder materials for running on LPG.
  10. Sorry - the britpart one wasn't advertised as stainless, and it 'works', but it's just not great. I was after a better one... Have found a stainless one at Rimmer: https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-LR199 Which looks a bit better, but I'm not sure if anyone on here has tried it yet (I know need4speed bought one, but I don't think his landy is back on the road yet)
  11. Hi I'm after a decent quality RRC v8 Stainless Y pipe - the bit that goes from the cast manifolds back. I'm currently using NTC7320 from Britpart, but the quality is utter carp: https://www.devon4x4.com/ntc7320-exhaust-front-pipe-358758.html Where each of the pipes merges they are basically squashed in half which must hurt flow, , the slip joints needed welding to stop them leaking and it's starting to rust out even though it's only a couple of years old. Any suggestions for decent off the shelf stainless ones? ISTR one of the manufacturers did one as part of a sports exhaust package but I can't find it at the moment... Thanks Jon
  12. The Lego one will probably have better build quality too
  13. https://jalopnik.com/sure-looks-like-lego-leaked-the-2020-land-rover-defende-1835745122
  14. There are a lot of chinese made rods floating around - in general they seem to be OK, although they may require fettling - sometimes the little ends may need reaming a little to fit the pin through, stuff like that.. Most of them seem to be made in the same factory then random names are slapped on the side. My other 'toy' other than the defender is a mk1 MX5, which has a rather large aftermarket turbo sat on the side of it running 'somewhat' more power than standard. We rebuilt the engine using chinese rods with no issues at all, and there's a LOT of people who have done the same with mazda engines (including with the brand you linke)... The general consensus is if you want the absolute best and budget is no issue (ie. race motor or crazy crazy power), then you can pay the extra for the really exotic rods from a brand name, but for a normal road car the chinese ones are fine...
  15. My 322 (with the 6 speed auto) used to do a very similar thing with the gearbox - it would roll up to a junction in second, you'd put your foot down there'd be a pause then a massive driveline thump as it dropped to 1st and pulled away. Very un-RR like. There was a software update for it via GAP, but to be honest it didn't make much difference...
  16. Does it have the adaptive dampers? If it's a similar setup to the full fat RR, there's an adaptive damping recallibration that you can do with an IID Tool (may need the beta firmware on it)..
  17. =jon=


    I *think* the overheating is in the BMW engined ones - they ran very hot as standard so any cooling system issues would push them over the edge.. In the guides on fullfatrr.com the jag petrol engined ones are supposed to be a lot more reliable than the diesels (apart from the 5.0 SC with it's cam tensioner issues).
  18. =jon=


    How many miles a year do you do? If it's lowish miles, get an older 4.2SC and put the savings towards petrol? The Jag 4.4 petrol is supposed to be the most reliable L322, followed by the 4.2SC...
  19. They won't have been ECE certified, and the bowls you are putting them in won't have been certified with LED emitters, so technically they won't be road legal (and will fail a properly done MOT). What's more likely to stop you from fitting them is that without a projector type headlight assembly the light will be all over the place and blind everyone...
  20. =jon=


    I read conflicting reports - BAS say that it will need mapping out, and there's a butterfly elsewhere that will need removal - but the EGRs have to stay electrically connected otherwise it'll throw an error. All the remap does is stop them from actuating. BAS remap would have been about £600 from what I remember, plus another £150 for the EGR patch... If you remove them fully, you need EGR Emulators which fool the system into thinking they are still there. A few people have fitted the EGR blanking kits, left the EGRs electrically connected and have not remapped and not had any warning lights..
  21. =jon=


    Turbo failed on mine at 115K, ish. No warning, pulled onto a motorway slip road, put my foot down and then a complete loss of power, LOTS of smoke and a trip on a recovery truck. It looked like the passenger side was spewing oil into the inlet. Not really a DIY change either - passenger side one is a right pig to get to When I got it I asked about the EGRs - I was told if they stick which is the normal cause of turbo failure then you get a warning light on the dash - it's then if people carry on driving it it will kill the turbos as they get stressed. I had no such warnings, so possibly it was just the turbo letting go, unrelated to the EGR. EGR blanking kit may need mapping out in software, I looked at it and some people said it will throw a warning light, some said it might do, others had done it and it didn't... I also had the gearbox properly serviced when I got it (and paperwork said it had been done before but Cam Tech had a look at the oil and reckoned that it hadn't been done properly) - so that's no guarantee of TC lasting, although it does look fairly uncommon. Height sensor issue was the drivers rear side - possibly damp or gremlins in the wiring somewhere, but typically the day after I ordered the sensor (£100) the warning message went away and never came back! If I was to get another one, I'd probably get a petrol one - I don't see the future being bright for diesel at the moment. The trouble is the older 4.2s are reliable but don't have the facelift goodies, and the facelifted ones are the 5.0 which has it's own set of issues (timing chain tensioners) which are £3000 ish to sort out..
  22. =jon=


    I've recently got rid of my 2010 3.6 TDV8. As said EGRs / Turbos can cause issues - the two are linked - failing EGRs causes the turbos to have to work too hard, which can result in big bills (around £3500 for 2x turbos and a new pair of EGRs), but the turbos can fail on their own as well. The 6 speed box is supposed to be better than the earlier ones, but torque converters can play up - that's another £1000 please to get it swapped before it breaks up and trashes the rest of the box. When they start to fail they don't completely lock up - light throttle on hills the revs will rise/fall. It also had some random electrical issues - radar cruise control would occasionally lock itself out until the car was turned off and on again, and there was an adaptive suspension error that would regularly occur over the course of 2 months then cleared itself up never to come back. Tailgate on mine was rusty as well. Overall it was a very nice place to travel in, but the running costs are not cheap - they are not a car you can run on a budget! The build quality on mine was also a bit iffy IMHO for something that's supposed to be the pinnacle of luxury - quite a few trim rattles, inside the doors, the passenger side door shut lines were all off (although it didn't appear to have ever been bumped). I did like it though, and I'd probably consider another one at some point!
  23. I would take the faults that the IID tool reports with a minor pinch of salt - you get quite a lot of white noise from it. My old L322 used to report all sorts of errors - fan circuits open, drivers seat circuits open, speakers etc etc. If you cleared them, they'd come back again fairly soon. Everything worked though, so no idea why things would trigger...
  24. The 'named brands' LED lights (Trucklite, Nolden, JW Speaker, VisionX, possibly even Britpart) are fully road legal - they have the correct E Markings and beam pattern. A lot of the chinese imports that you get from ebay claim to have the right markings but don't - so they are an MOT fail (although to a certain extent it depends on the tester if the beam pattern is ok). From defender2: https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic62722.html
  25. Everything will be driven from the ipad in front of the gearstick - because we all know touch screen controls are perfect for wet, muddy cold environments, work well with gloves, can be operated without having to look at a mixture of the screen and the instruction manual when on the motorway at 70 etc etc...
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