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Everything posted by =jon=

  1. The Lego one will probably have better build quality too
  2. https://jalopnik.com/sure-looks-like-lego-leaked-the-2020-land-rover-defende-1835745122
  3. There are a lot of chinese made rods floating around - in general they seem to be OK, although they may require fettling - sometimes the little ends may need reaming a little to fit the pin through, stuff like that.. Most of them seem to be made in the same factory then random names are slapped on the side. My other 'toy' other than the defender is a mk1 MX5, which has a rather large aftermarket turbo sat on the side of it running 'somewhat' more power than standard. We rebuilt the engine using chinese rods with no issues at all, and there's a LOT of people who have done the same with mazda engines (including with the brand you linke)... The general consensus is if you want the absolute best and budget is no issue (ie. race motor or crazy crazy power), then you can pay the extra for the really exotic rods from a brand name, but for a normal road car the chinese ones are fine...
  4. My 322 (with the 6 speed auto) used to do a very similar thing with the gearbox - it would roll up to a junction in second, you'd put your foot down there'd be a pause then a massive driveline thump as it dropped to 1st and pulled away. Very un-RR like. There was a software update for it via GAP, but to be honest it didn't make much difference...
  5. Does it have the adaptive dampers? If it's a similar setup to the full fat RR, there's an adaptive damping recallibration that you can do with an IID Tool (may need the beta firmware on it)..
  6. =jon=


    I *think* the overheating is in the BMW engined ones - they ran very hot as standard so any cooling system issues would push them over the edge.. In the guides on fullfatrr.com the jag petrol engined ones are supposed to be a lot more reliable than the diesels (apart from the 5.0 SC with it's cam tensioner issues).
  7. =jon=


    How many miles a year do you do? If it's lowish miles, get an older 4.2SC and put the savings towards petrol? The Jag 4.4 petrol is supposed to be the most reliable L322, followed by the 4.2SC...
  8. They won't have been ECE certified, and the bowls you are putting them in won't have been certified with LED emitters, so technically they won't be road legal (and will fail a properly done MOT). What's more likely to stop you from fitting them is that without a projector type headlight assembly the light will be all over the place and blind everyone...
  9. =jon=


    I read conflicting reports - BAS say that it will need mapping out, and there's a butterfly elsewhere that will need removal - but the EGRs have to stay electrically connected otherwise it'll throw an error. All the remap does is stop them from actuating. BAS remap would have been about £600 from what I remember, plus another £150 for the EGR patch... If you remove them fully, you need EGR Emulators which fool the system into thinking they are still there. A few people have fitted the EGR blanking kits, left the EGRs electrically connected and have not remapped and not had any warning lights..
  10. =jon=


    Turbo failed on mine at 115K, ish. No warning, pulled onto a motorway slip road, put my foot down and then a complete loss of power, LOTS of smoke and a trip on a recovery truck. It looked like the passenger side was spewing oil into the inlet. Not really a DIY change either - passenger side one is a right pig to get to When I got it I asked about the EGRs - I was told if they stick which is the normal cause of turbo failure then you get a warning light on the dash - it's then if people carry on driving it it will kill the turbos as they get stressed. I had no such warnings, so possibly it was just the turbo letting go, unrelated to the EGR. EGR blanking kit may need mapping out in software, I looked at it and some people said it will throw a warning light, some said it might do, others had done it and it didn't... I also had the gearbox properly serviced when I got it (and paperwork said it had been done before but Cam Tech had a look at the oil and reckoned that it hadn't been done properly) - so that's no guarantee of TC lasting, although it does look fairly uncommon. Height sensor issue was the drivers rear side - possibly damp or gremlins in the wiring somewhere, but typically the day after I ordered the sensor (£100) the warning message went away and never came back! If I was to get another one, I'd probably get a petrol one - I don't see the future being bright for diesel at the moment. The trouble is the older 4.2s are reliable but don't have the facelift goodies, and the facelifted ones are the 5.0 which has it's own set of issues (timing chain tensioners) which are £3000 ish to sort out..
  11. =jon=


    I've recently got rid of my 2010 3.6 TDV8. As said EGRs / Turbos can cause issues - the two are linked - failing EGRs causes the turbos to have to work too hard, which can result in big bills (around £3500 for 2x turbos and a new pair of EGRs), but the turbos can fail on their own as well. The 6 speed box is supposed to be better than the earlier ones, but torque converters can play up - that's another £1000 please to get it swapped before it breaks up and trashes the rest of the box. When they start to fail they don't completely lock up - light throttle on hills the revs will rise/fall. It also had some random electrical issues - radar cruise control would occasionally lock itself out until the car was turned off and on again, and there was an adaptive suspension error that would regularly occur over the course of 2 months then cleared itself up never to come back. Tailgate on mine was rusty as well. Overall it was a very nice place to travel in, but the running costs are not cheap - they are not a car you can run on a budget! The build quality on mine was also a bit iffy IMHO for something that's supposed to be the pinnacle of luxury - quite a few trim rattles, inside the doors, the passenger side door shut lines were all off (although it didn't appear to have ever been bumped). I did like it though, and I'd probably consider another one at some point!
  12. I would take the faults that the IID tool reports with a minor pinch of salt - you get quite a lot of white noise from it. My old L322 used to report all sorts of errors - fan circuits open, drivers seat circuits open, speakers etc etc. If you cleared them, they'd come back again fairly soon. Everything worked though, so no idea why things would trigger...
  13. The 'named brands' LED lights (Trucklite, Nolden, JW Speaker, VisionX, possibly even Britpart) are fully road legal - they have the correct E Markings and beam pattern. A lot of the chinese imports that you get from ebay claim to have the right markings but don't - so they are an MOT fail (although to a certain extent it depends on the tester if the beam pattern is ok). From defender2: https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic62722.html
  14. Everything will be driven from the ipad in front of the gearstick - because we all know touch screen controls are perfect for wet, muddy cold environments, work well with gloves, can be operated without having to look at a mixture of the screen and the instruction manual when on the motorway at 70 etc etc...
  15. http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-gloucestershire-46841831 Now with CCTV footage
  16. Just been a thing on the local news (HTV West) about a company based in Sling who were stealing / stripping various Land Rovers - looks to be the same people. Somebody Barrington appears to have just been given a jail sentence at Bristol court for it. I didn't catch all the snippet to get the full details. It doesn't appear to be on the BBC News site yet either..
  17. Until very recently I had a 2010 L322 TDV8 RR. It cost me more in repairs than any other vehicle that I've owned. Incidentally, the second highest in repairs would have been the Toyota LC 120 that I owned, but all the works for that were carried out under Toyota warranty...
  18. Possibly smooths airflow over the bottom of the suspension / wishbones when at speed? My old L322 had similar fitted...
  19. Unless you know you have a fuel pressure sensor hooked up, it's probably a red herring - MS has lots of inputs that can be used for allsorts, so if one of them is mis defined or isn't there but is enabled in software you can get weird bogus readings...
  20. I like the look of that I had a D4 3.0TDV6 as a loan car for a week or so when the 322 was in the garage. It had obviously led a hard life prior to becoming a loan car, but it was really nice - near RR levels of comfort, rode well and was absolutely cavernous inside.
  21. Yup - I've got the screenshots saved - much appreciated! Do you know what thread etc the fittings you got were?
  22. Morning All, I'm hoping to (finally) get round to swapping the 3.5 in my 110 to the 4.6 I've had in the shed for yonks over the christmas period. I'm busy making a shopping list of stuff I'm going to need (mainly from Fridge's swap thread) so I can get everything ready as sourcing parts may be a bit tougher while everyone is on hols... I've already got MS2 + EDIS fully working with a thor inlet, so that side of things should be reasonably straightforwards, and the new lump has the crank triggers etc. So far my shopping list consists of: Oil filters + break in oil 19mm hose x lots for making the various water hoses up New engine mounts, for while it's out. injector seals for when the fuel rails get swapped over. 16 x Seal - Fuel Injector - ERR7309 - Genuine 1870mm 7-vee serp belt (not using aircon) Some way of bodging the PAS pipes together Anyone know what the threads are so I can source the right compression fittings? I've got a remote oil filter + cooler so hopefully that will swap straight across.. Anything else I'm missing?
  23. Thanks - I did think of the choc block connectors, I'll have to have a look and see if I can fit it over the existing lock/unlock rod... I do have a crimper, will have a look and see if I have some crimps that may work
  24. Hi All I've been investigating why my central locking has been a bit iffy on one of the doors - it's an aftermarket kit made of up solenoids that have a rod that clamps to the standard lock/unlock bit on the door. The clamp that joins the two rods has broken up - looks like it's gone brittle and disintegrated. Any bright ideas on where to source a replacement? You can buy a new solenoid / kit fairly cheaply, but it's a bit of a waste when all I need is a tiny part of it... I've found one place that does them on their own, but they want £4.40 ea for them http://www.machine7.com/product.php?xProd=3318 Any other ideas?
  25. OK - if the landy is starting and running and is reasonably drivable, then you probably have a spark map of some kind already First thing is to check that the MS and the physical hardware are reasonably in collusion with each other - in Tunerstudio go into Ignition Options, and there should be an option called 'fixed advance' - with a choice of 'table' (which will use the spark map in one of the 'ignition table' sections'), or 'fixed timing'. (I'm reading off an MS2E map, so the options may be slightly different) If you choose 'fixed timing', one of the other fields will ungrey itself (timing for fixed advance) and you can force the MS to spark on whatever value you put in there - so pick a value that lines up with one of the timing marks on the pulley. Then start her up, put the timing light on and check that whatever value is in MS lines up with what the pulley marks say. If they don't line up, you can adjust 'Trigger Angle Offset (deg)' up or down until they match up (so 10 BTDC in the MS lines up with the 10 BDTC mark on the pulley). Once you've done that, set Ignition Options / Fixed Advance back to 'use table' and check that the timing isn't still stuck at 10 (or whatever you set it at) and assuming your ignition map isn't all the same value, that the timing changes if you blip the throttle Now if you go back to tunerstudio, if you open up 'ignition table 1' - you should have a little circle hovering somewhere round the table - where is dependant on the current revs and vacuum, which moves around as you rev / drive / whatever - the point under that marker is whatever the timing is at that point. The table is probably something around 10ish bottom left hand corner, dropping as you go vertically and rising as you go horizontally. If you paste a pic of that table one of the grown ups who properly understand how to tune spark maps will be able to help
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