=jon=

I was looking at doing similar with the MS3 - run the petrol bank from the onboard injector drivers, then run an external injector driver off the MS3x injector drivers, with a switch to swap fuel/spark maps and the injectors over. I even got as far as buying the external drivers, but never got round to it. I think the external drivers may have needed modifying as well as the peak/hold currents for LPG are different for P+H petrol injectors..

Thanks - I read through their specs and it says they can run high/low/peak hold, but I never got as far as asking if you could do a mix - run half the injectors with one and the other half with the other, or swap based on an external input if you are switching between the two via relay or similar... I'd be interested to see how you get on

Have they said it will drive low impedance LPG injectors in addition to high impedance petrol injectors, with switchable maps between them? This is one of the options I've been looking at - I've got MS3 + an LPG ECU, it all works but it's not 'great' - there's various things that could be done better if everything was driven from one unit...

I've seen a few people have fitted an external pump, and just 'sucked through' the existing in tank pump - not sure if this is an option, as it tends to be when fitting a high pressure EFI pump to replace a low pressure carb pump... But it'd be a whole load less hassle than dropping the tank out...

Thanks - Hopefully dropping the tank isn't going to be too much of a PITA...

Hi All I've been having some intermittent problems with the fuel pump on my MS powered v8. Normally it would work fine, but if the weather was really hot it'd stop priming - turn the key and there's no whine from the pump. Sometimes it would blow the 10A fuse on the relay board, sometimes it would just not run. Leave it for a bit, then sometimes it would run again, but if you turned it off and back on again it'd not prime. As far as I can tell everything is OK electrically - you can hear the fuel pump relay click on and off when you turn the key, the fuel gauge flickers slightly when the pump 'should' be priming which suggests it's drawing current but not pumping, so I guess it's on it's way out. There's plenty of guides around for changing TD5 pumps by making an access hatch through the boot floor, but nothing for a V8. Is it possible to change the pump in situ, or do you have to drop the tank? Thanks! Jon

I've not looked at MS1, but on MS2 and later one of the outputs can be configured to be a tach, which goes straight to the input on the gauge. If you are using EDIS for ignition then I believe you can use one of the EDIS pins as a tach source as well.

I have a VDO Cockpit Vision as it's a close match to the standard LR gauges: https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/vdo-tacho-52mm-diameter-0-6000rpm-333015010 I got it via the US as it worked out a lot cheaper. One of the outputs on the MS can be configured as an RPM out.

From memory the smaller tank is 45L, the larger is 55L - from empty to full is around 85L which would work out somewhere close to right as you can't fill them completely full. I think they are this type: https://tinleytech.co.uk/shop/lpg-tanks/single-hole/single-hole-cylinder-tank/ I ran the BLOS on megasquirt for a few years - you just have a second ignition table with the LPG curve on it, and a completely zero'd fuel table. I'm now running multi-point with an LPG ECU, but slowly moving more of the LPG functions to MS - gas pressure correction etc. At the moment it runs well, but there's a few niggles which appear to be because the LPG ecu makes corrections that the MS doesn't know about, even though I've disabled as much as possible. Elbekko is right regarding the injectors - you would likely need a peak + hold board to drive them. It's also likely that the currents are different to peak + hold petrol injectors (some are, some appear to work) which means modifying most of the peak and hold boards from standard. You would also be 'better' moving to MS3 if you aren't already as this offers a lot more control around dual fuels, and can do all of the gas temp/pressure correction.

I've got twin underslung tanks on mine - the drivers side is a 300mm diameter tank (can only find a receipt for the tank straps, sorry!) and just fits between the outriggers, the passenger side is a 240mm tank and shorter, but this is on a 110 not a 109 so there may be chassis differences. If you have a look at somewhere like Tinley, they have a selection of tanks, with some measuring you should be able to work out what fits. If you are starting to assemble parts - I have a single point vaporiser and a BLOS carb, probably some other bits and pieces (changeover switch, VIP mixture controller etc) which I've been meaning to sell on here - drop me a PM if you are interested.

The majority of 110's with a v8 were the original 3.5s on carbs - the standard exhaust is pretty small bore and restrictive. Even on a 3.5 (albeit EFI) I could feel a difference going from the standard 3.5 setup to the 3.9 manifolds, and then to the larger bore TD5 sized exhaust. Since I posted on this thread last time, the 4.6 is in and running, and it's a bit louder than the 3.5 was. Has a nice burble at idle, but I've still not got someone else to drive it so I can hear it from outside!

It appears that it was a failing coil pack - realised I had a misfire on LPG under load which was traced back to a failing coil pack. It's early days but it appears to have also cured the hot restart issues.

If you do away with the vacuum entirely, you may find you end up with oil leaks - on my fresh built 4.6 with the breathers setup incorrectly it would force oil past the crank pulley seal after extended high revs. Changing to the factory 4.6 setup (air drawn in from air filter on n/s bank, through engine, o/s with restrictor and spiral separator to inlet post throttle) cured it.

Nope - I don't have MAT / CLT correction setup yet - still trying to figure out if it's a heatsoak issue or something else. That it consistently starts/dies then cranks then starts/runs makes me wonder if it's something else. What sort of settings have you got setup if you don't mind me asking, has to be worth a try...

My percentages may be off as I have a feeling my req_fuel is not that accurate, as I was working off a map that was on the vehicle when I got it, rather than working from scratch, and it's also gone through various iterations as it's been upgraded from MS2 to MS3 and things like incorporate AFR Target enabled. For my columns I have 500, 750 (which is about the target idle) and then 1100 - but I may have a bigger table than you as I seem to remember you are on MS1?

I've been following the MS vs. other ECUs a bit, not so much for the landy, but for my other pet project which is a turbo'd MX5 - currently it's running a derivative of MS3 (a licenced plug and play mainboard wired for the mazda ECU plugs with an MS3 processor card). It works, and there's good support for getting it properly tuned, but some things are not great compared to the newer competition from people like Haltech. Even more so when you look at the non MS3Pro units which still use crappy DB37 connectors rather than proper automotive waterproof connectors, but are close to the same cost as the lower end alternatives. On the US MX5 forums where megasquirt is/was the standard, a lot of people are looking to move away as the MS development seems to have stagnated, or 'common' features like DBW and long term trim tables have been in beta forever, or firmware niggles are never resolved (or massively broken between releases), and the source code isn't open to let the community fix them any more. The common alternatives are Haltech - although from what I understand their CAN implementation is closed to third party integration which may limit options, Link, who have been around forever or MaxxECU who seem to be fairly new but can also do transmission control, including the BMW DSG gearboxes which are gaining popularity for swaps. There's also people like Syvecs, Motec who are more motorsport biased..

I was guessing on heat soak as well, as the underbonnet temps get very toasty on a v8 defender (40+C easily). What's really confusing me is the second lot of cranking where it won't even try and fire, then that it will fire immediately on the third go. Hence I'm wondering if it's something really odd like a bad relay or a megasquirt bug...

Hi Trying to nail down a delayed hot restart issue, just wondering if anyone has any bright ideas... MS3 running EDIS & Thor injection. Starting sequence is pretty much sorted. At pretty much any engine temperature I can stop the running engine, and it will restart within a few cranks and run happily. However from a delayed hot restart - stop hot engine, leave it for 5-10 minutes, try and restart and the following will happen: 1st turn of the key it will fire, then immediately die. By immediately, I mean run for 1/4 of a second or so. 2nd turn of the key it will crank, crank, crank some more but not attempt to fire - even for 10 or 15 seconds or so. 3rd turn of the key it will start and run immediately, along with a cloud of unburnt petrol out of the back. This is reasonably repeatable. I've tried altering the cranking fuel and ASE up/down for the ~60-70C range that leaving the engine for 10 mins or so but it doesn't seem to make a lot of difference. I've tried disabling air temp correction when cranking and that didn't help either. It almost seems like on the second turn of the key it's not sparking, or as if the ECU isn't resetting properly. Any suggestions? I'll post the msq later when I'm on the other laptop, but wondered if anyone else had run into this before... Jon

Ideally you should get it running stably on warm idle before you start looking at anything else - because WUE (and possibly ASE) are % modifiers to the main fuel map you need to make sure that your hot idle is right first. I would probably approach it as: Get it started and warmed up, no matter how rough it runs. Lock the timing to the values you are expecting at idle. Disable any corrections - EGO, idle valve etc. Set your idle speed (you will probably need to block off the IAC to do this) Tune the idle cells to either the AFR (I think mines at about 14.2) you want if you have a wideband or by ear so it's ticking over sweetly. You want to make sure that any cells neighbouring the idle cell don't have big jumps in value, as this will likely cause the idle to fluctuate as it will go lean/rich and cause the hunting. Add some load (cooling fans, turn steering etc) and make sure it stays stable and doesn't start hunting again. Blip the throttle and check it settles. Turn your EGO back on (although it should probably not be active at idle anyway) and your idle valve and check that it's all still stable at idle and when under load. Unlock the timing, check it's still ok and doesn't hunt. Again check for big variations in timing which will kick the engine speed if you end up in that cell. Normally you have a column below the idle speed with +1 or +2 to prevent stalls - not sure if Nige's basemap has this built in. Leave it overnight to cool down again. If you start up the laptop with Tunerstudio, there should be an indicator for cranking, and after start enrichment (ASE). If it's starting then running for 5-10 secs then dying, it's either too much / too little fuel or too little air. If it doesn't stall if you give it a bit of throttle, likely the latter. If it makes no difference, leave it another day to fully cool down then add some fuel to the ASE bucket for the temperature you are starting with - I'm at about 60% ASE at 15C dropping in a fairly straight line to 5%ish at 70C - with ASE running for about 10seconds. If it starts and runs until the ASE indicator goes out in tunerstudio, then it's probably WUE that needs changing. WUE I'm at about 190% at 0C, straight lining down to 100% at 70 - but tunerstudio has a WUE wizard that will set this for you.

An O2 sensor should be off the shelf, as long as you get the right type - FF might be able to advise, but I'd prob just put a wideband in after the Y so you get readings from both banks not just one. In terms of WB - Innovate LC2 / AEM or Spartan 14.7 are all good. You want one with a 0-5v output, which you should be able to connect to the EGO in wire on the MS, then change the settings in Tunerstudio (Basic Settings / Exhaust Gas Settings) to tell it you have a Wideband.. You will need to be careful of ground offsets (use the same grounds and pos feed as the MS for the wideband...)

I think it's the rear - that's listed as 'egoGauge' in the Tunerstudio definitions, front is 'ego2Gauge'. That said - what's your exhaust setup? Some of the v8s came with twin lambdas (one in each bank) I believe, but I think it was the cat only pipes which it appears that yours has - if so do you have 2 lambdas fitted, or have you added another boss further downstream for a single lambda? Once it's running, I'd recommend you invest in a wideband - at least then you have a reasonably accurate idea of what the fuelling is doing, rather than the narrowband which is a bit finger in the air. It will more than likely pay for itself in saved fuel costs

Any chance of a copy of the .ini file as well - TunerStudio throws a wobbly and doesn't want to import it Think it's maincontroller.ini inside the ProjectCFG folder in the TS project..

It's probably worth posting a copy of your .msq file - then we can see what's going on. In terms of the gauges, you can set those up however you want, even if the hardware behind the gauge doesn't exist, or to have them set 'wrong' so that the ecu gets a duff reading...

Some motors have a restrictor in the bottom of the drivers side breather spigot in the rocker cover, some (later?) ones do not, and seem to just rely on the plastic spiral oil separator to act as a restriction. If there's too much restriction (ie. the spiral wotsit is full of gunk) then the engine will blow oil out of the front cover at high sustained revs (guess how I found this out!). There's a few threads about using a PCV instead of the separator as a better solution.

I don't think you'd ever make it impregnable - but the more irritating you make it the less likely they are to bother, if you stop the doors being able to be unlocked with a spoon or easily opened by bending the door and opening the lock catch then it's much more of a PITA - trying to crawl through a broken window at chest high covered in broken glass is much less fun for a tea leaf and much more obvious...