=jon=

There's something 'weird' with LED and HID lights in certain lights - especially in dusk, and when the road is damp - it seems to suck all of the light up and makes you think there's something wrong with the headlights... I've been told it's because both LED and HID emit a very narrow range of light colours, whereas a normal bulb emits quite a broad range, so the latter will work better in all conditions, even if not as bright..

Thanks - Closed Cell Foam tape now ordered!

I used high ZDDP engine break in oil when I first started mine up, as it's recommended for use when doing the initial bedding in of an engine with a flat tappet cam: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112847890025

Hi All I recently lined the roof of my 110 with foil backed camping mat in order to keep some warmth in and reduce the condensation on the bare roof.. It's worked a treat, but I'm still getting condensation on the roof ribs, enough to still drip annoyingly down your neck at inopportune moments... Any suggestions on how to tackle this? It looks like some of the ribs I could cover in mat as they aren't used to secure the headlining, but any suggestions as to what to cover the ones with that do get used? I tried gaffer tape and it doesn't cut the condensation down at all, maybe something like sticky back felt that's enough to stop the condensation but not thick enough to interfere with the headlining when I refit it? Thanks Jon

The ones like this: They seem to clamp better with more even pressure, but they are a fair bit more expensive than a standard jubilee clip..

AFAIK @Les Brock has a 90 Diesel Auto which may be running now so may be able to comment more...

When I did the engine swap on mine I used silicon hoses and joiners as there's a variety of awkward bends for the top / bottom rad hoses that I couldn't find off the shelf pipework for. I spent weeks pulling my hair out tracking down and fixing leaks - no matter what I did I couldn't get it to all seal nicely... I tried different jubilee clips, hylomar on all of the joints, etc etc It drove me totally bonkers as it would all go back together, appear to be sealed and then a few days later you'd spot a few drips underneath... Then I'd check all of the jubilee clips and they would need nipping up - I think the heat cycles causes the clips to bite into the silicon and loosen. In the end, I used Mikalor clamps on all of the joins and it seems to be holding together much better, but long term I will probably look at replacing with rubber hoses and/or one piece/metal replacements to reduce the number of joins in the system...

The ZF actually suits the V8 quite well on the road at least - you plonk it in gear and it's generally relaxing and wafty like other cars with big engines and auto boxes (as refined as a 110 can be!). You need to provoke it a bit to make it kick down, but when it does it goes pretty well... In terms of MPG - when it was a 3.5 (with Thor manifolds / Megasquirt) on simple BLOS LPG it would do 10-12MPG depending on the type of journey, so probably 14 or so on petrol (although it was rarely used on it!). I dropped in a 4.6 last summer and it's not done many miles since with lockdown, probably less than 1500 so it's still barely run in, and a lot of the time has been spent remapping the Megasquirt and getting the now multi-point LPG injection playing nicely together. Fuel economy is about the same on gas, but I reckon I can get it better as I improve the mapping over time... I was a bit hesitant when I bought it due to it being an auto but I actually think it works well...

ZF 6HP26 in the RR, quite probably the disco as well if it's a 6 speed..

Hi I mentioned I was doing this on another post and was asked to put up a thread on my progress... I've been running a ZF 4HP22 converted 110 for a while now. The previous owner built a custom central box with a RRC auto shifter mounted on it. I've been looking to increase the storage space and do something a bit different - after looking at the price of the Ashcroft NAS console I decided to look at alternative ways of mounting the shifter, when I stumbled across a thread on a US defender forum where some people are using a Lokar floor mounted stick shifter: https://www.defendersource.com/threads/show-me-your-lokar.61569/ I did a bit more research, and found out that RW Engineering in the US make a kit which consists of a new transfer box linkage, a mounting plate and a new quadrant for the ZF that lets you use the shifter for a GM700R4 auto box with the ZF - essentially the layout (PRND321) and spacing is the same between the two, but the pull 'ratio' is different. I really liked the look of this as it mounts the new shifter where the manual stick would be, so you can use the normal rubber gaiter etc and it's very 'standard' looking. Some pics (and excuse the mess of wires ): Mounting plate sandwiched between transfer box level mounting. A replacement transfer box linkage is supplied to account for the transfer lever moving up 1/2" or so. From the other side - Lokar shifter is bolted to the mounting plate, with the Lokar GM arm and linkage (you get a load of different options in the Lokar box to choose from). The RW supplied quadrant fits at the ZF end which is considerably longer than the ZF standard one to account for the differences in 'pull'. There's also a Lokar supplied rose jointed linkage that you measure and shorten to fit. This was probably the fiddliest part - from reading the US forums most people seem to be able to select the full range of gears, however I couldn't get it to reliably work at the extremes of travel by adjusting the rod length, either it would click nicely into park but not click nicely into '1', or vice versa. In the end I modified the detent plate on the Lokar with a dremel to give a little more travel - just shaving some material away to allow it to drop into '1' nicely. Detent plate looks like this, and is behind the lever fixing on the shifter itself: I had to shave a few mm away from the flat by the 700 stamp. Tunnel back on, foam cut to size: Rubber gaiter fitted: I've been running round with it for a week or so now, and it works a treat - although you now have to reach for the shifter, as it's an auto it's pretty rare that you have to do anything but plonk it in gear and pootle along. Once you get your head around the lack of 'which gear are you in' indicator it's easy enough to use - there are stops on the mechanism to let you easily select gears, eg. press button on top down, pull back until the stop and you are in D, and you can get aftermarket gear indicators for it as well if it's really needed. I may take it apart and bend the transfer lever slightly - I can lock it in '1' on the auto box with H + Diff lock on the transfer box, but 1 + L Lock would foul, but it's not a massive biggie for me... If you are reasonably handy with metalwork I don't doubt you could make your own mounting, linkage and quadrant, but I'm not so it was much easier for me to buy it. Shifter wise there's all sorts of different stick lengths, stick tops etc - and there's also other brands of shifter about for the 700R4 all with their own pros and cons. There's Lokar shifters available for a whole range of different auto boxes, so this may provide some inspiration to those doing non standard stuff. for anything that's not supported by them, given enough time and patience I'm sure you could make your own shift detent plate up to suit whatever pattern you wanted...

https://www.truck-lite.com/27275c3-2.html shows as having a heated lens, but doesn't look like it's ECE approved...

If they have the relevant ECE markings on the lens then you should be fully OK...

The relevant MOT bits have already been posted on this thread BTW:

I think most MOT testers use a bit of common sense - an LED bulb of 'appropriate' brightness in something like a sidelight shouldn't cause an issue (or really look any different to the original!), the rules are supposedly to stop people putting LED / HID replacement bulbs in headlights with poor beam pattern which causes dazzling/safety issues for other drivers..

If they were marked as road legal and they are LED 'units' then you are probably OK - the grey area is putting LEDs as replacements for incandescent bulbs...

I've not seen the light output on the newer ones, but it's supposed to be better: I don't think they do them with the heating elements in the UK, I've never seen it listed as a feature... The only UK spec ones I've see are JW Speakers which are crazy money: https://www.mobilecentre.co.uk/j-w-speaker-evo2-8700-smartheat-dual-burn-led-headlamp-defender-kit-uk-black-heated

I think existing standards will be accepted as the new 'UK' standards, so figs will still be given. We just in theory can overrule / make our own standards up as well...

I did a whole load of research a while back - from what I remember a headlight used in the UK/EU has to have an ECE mark on it to be legal. As part of the ECE certification it's tested, and that test includes the type of bulb being used, which also has to be ECE approved - so an H4 for a landy headlight. By taking that bulb out and changing it with a non ECE bulb, you are invalidating that ECE cert, so 'technically' it shouldn't be used on the roads. At the moment none of the LED bulbs have the ECE certs.. https://www.osram.com/ecat/LEDriving HL H4 Gen2-LED high and low beam lamps-Car lighting-Automotive/com/en/GPS01_3143585/ I think the 'reality' is that if they are adjusted properly, don't dazzle anyone then you are going to be OK, but if you have an accident and have an over-zealous insurance inspector, or someone blames a crash on being dazzled by your lights then you may be up the creek somewhat.. A lot of the ebay chinese super-cheap direct fit LED light units don't have the right certification for use on the roads either, so expect to pay a few hundred for ones that are. Trucklites were one of the cheapest that had all of the right paperwork, but there's probably a few other cheaper options now. The better ones also have IP water ingress ratings - The Trucklites are IP69K which is immersion for more than 30 mins at 1m depth + pressure washing so should cope OK with most conditions.. I bought a set of the Gen 1 Trucklites when they were on a group buy a few years ago. The are a massive improvement over the H4 units, but as Mike says have a slight dark area in front of the nose of the Landy. Apparently this is fixed in the Gen 2 models though. Interesting to see that some of the JW Speaker models have 2x+ the light output of the Trucklites, they must be ridiculous!

I will do - hopefully the weather will be decent enough for me to have a proper look at it over the Christmas period.. I went with the easy route and bought the RW Engineering kit from the US which has a bracket to mount the Lokar shifter on the transfer lever mount, a replacement quadrant for the ZF and a slightly longer transfer box linkage to account for the thickness due to the bracket. I would imagine with enough head scratching it would be easy to make your own, calculate quadrant lengths etc

I have all the bits downstairs - Lokar floor mount shifter, the bracket and linkage from RW Engineering in the US. It's worked out reasonably expensive, but has the massive advantage that I can use any centre cubby, rather than needing something custom or spending £500 for the Ashcroft NAS console. Man maths at it's finest It's also an anti-theft and MOT man confusion device - it will look like a normal manual stick, but no clutch pedal As said, I have all the bits, just waiting on some time to get it installed

If anyone is looking at aftermarket auto shifters for the 4HP - the shift pattern and spacing is the same as the US GM 700R4 auto box, and there's plenty of aftermarket shifters available for those - you will need to make a different quadrant for the shifter arm on the box but the rest should work. I'll start a thread at some point - I have a Lokar auto stick shifter and the bracketry to mount it in the standard defender shifter location, using the standard gearbox gaiter boot etc. With any luck it'll end up like this: https://www.defendersource.com/threads/show-me-your-lokar.61569/#post-630388

I bought one of the Makita clones - it's 'OK' but not great... It will just about undo car wheel nuts, nothing much tighter than that. The cheap screwfix air one I have is way, way more powerful...

I've never been asked for it (which is good, as I don't have one!)

Yep - it seems a shame that it's been abandoned as it's a lot cleaner than diesel (and petrol), reasonably easy and quick to fill / package / transport and from what I understand the propane is a by product of the oil industry so also cheap to produce...

There's no certification needed for LPG systems - from what I understand it's a 'myth' propagated by the UK LPG register of installers... https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/lpg-liquid-petroleum-gas-vehicles/lpg-liquefied-petroleum-gas-vehicles Calor / Propane cannisters are considerably more expensive than filling up with Autogas, unfortunately!