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=jon=

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Everything posted by =jon=

  1. One occasionally working vehicle, one soon-after not working vehicle which was got rid of sharp-ish!
  2. Bit of an update: Found another local rad place - £275+VAT for a recore with a bigger core. Bearmach do a brand new copper cored heavy duty v8 rad for £281 inc VAT - however it's out of stock and due to current issues they don't know when any will be back in store. Rimmer / Paddock etc have Britpart ones, but I think I'll pass... Found a very cheap 2.5TD Allisport clone on ebay so have got that, should be here tomorrow so will see how it looks...
  3. Seeing as the original post over a year old and he never came back, I guess he got it sorted
  4. One of the JW Speaker models has filaments in the lenses to stop them freezing up. https://www.mobilecentre.co.uk/j-w-speaker-evo2-8700-smartheat-dual-burn-led-headlamp-defender-kit-uk-black-heated Sit down before you look at the price though!
  5. I have the same ones as Mike - they are much better than the Wipac Halogens with uprated bulbs they replaced. The one downside is that there isn't much illumination close to the front of the truck - the beam proper starts about 10feet out. I believe this was rectified in the mk2 versions which are now for sale.
  6. Local rad place that we've used before is about 30 miles away and don't want to even give a ballpark on pricing for a replacement or a recore without having it on the counter in front of them, which is a PITA as I'd have to take half a day off work to take it there, then collect it again after it's done and the landy is off the road while its being sorted... Looks like Bearmach do a metal tanked range, including a heavy duty v8 / TD one for a reasonable amount of money.
  7. Hi All Now the weather is starting to warm up a bit, it looks like the cooling system is starting to struggle now that I have fitted a 4.6 - on a day like today after a run at low speed the temp will start to climb, even with both 12" electric fans going shifting a fair volume of air. Rad looks to be original so is probably way past it's best.. Having a search, it looks like the 2.5TD came with the biggest rad, but other than paying OE prices, does anyone have any suggestions on where to get one for at a sensible price? It looks like a few of the budget end of the market (ie. britpart) have got plastic tanks... Likewise, is there anyone that supplies an off the shelf fan shroud and kit that doesn't rely on poking holes in the rad to mount? Allisport seem to have a very nice setup, but rad + 2x fans is over £1000...
  8. My setup seems to be working fairly well so far - and the gas ECU takes care of all of the 'fiddly' stuff - gas temp compensation, start on petrol and auto switch over, switch back to petrol on low gas, vacuum compensation on the regulator etc.. After a few teething issues (which are all down to me not having done this before!) it will switch over to gas almost imperceptibly and seems to run as well as on petrol with virtual zero setup on the gas ECU side. One thing - as you aren't EFI currently, the gas ECU acts as a 'modifier' to the petrol injector signals - so without the signals the ECU won't be able to control anything - most of them can't run fully standalone. You'd probably need to upgrade to a megasquirt, run 'dummy' injectors (just resistors?) and have the gas ECU run from that. I don't think it would be too much of a problem, just a bit non standard..
  9. I've had 3 setups running MS2 + LPG on mine so far - original was a cooker ring and a closed loop system with a stepper for the gas. Second was the same but with a BLOS carb, which was a lot better than the cooker ring. For both of these, MS was wired so when on gas the injection table was zero'd and some extra advance was added in. Since putting the 4.6 in I've swapped to multi-point with an AEB gas ECU running in parallel to the MS2 - not done much setup as it's not been used since the lockdown and the engine is only just run in, but the plan is to let the gas ECU control the switchover, have a second spark table on the MS with more gas friendly advance and maybe tweak the second fuel table to be tuned for gas, but still run closed loop via the gas ECU. I did look at running the LPG direct off the MS - MS3 actually has support for dual fuels with different injector dead times etc, and even a 'relay switched' option for running dual injectors, but went down the easy route. I did have a link to someone else who was running MS3 with relays that switched injectors between petrol and gas so it is possible, but I can't find the site right now..
  10. Have you downloaded and installed Tunerstudio? http://www.tunerstudio.com/index.php/tuner-studio If you install that, plug the laptop in you should be able to get to the map that's on there, which is a start When you turn the key does it crank? It should do that even with the MS disconnected IIRC - if it doesn't then possibly something else is wrong...
  11. Jealous of the LS there! I had a quick look at the P38 cable and from the pics it looked like the throttle pedal end was different, but I didn't do much more than look at pics on Rimmer's website.. FWIW - the part number I posted above (SBB104100P) is I think from the 50th anniversary and is considerably longer (several feet) than the standard 3.5 cable (bit the wrong throttle end fitting)..
  12. Subscribing for interest. I have the same setup on my Thor v8 and haven't found an off the shelf cable yet. The Thor end should have a nipple as you have pictured, but most of the accelerator cables have a clevis fork on the end. At the throttle end I have a standard v8 throttle cable (SBB104100P), which has a clevis fork on the end. Between the throttle body and the clevis fork there's about a 3" intermediate cable with a round nipple as above at the throttle end, and a flat 'spade' with a hole in it crimped on that fits in the clevis fork/pin which links the two incompatible bits up..
  13. Not on a defender, but it's been done on other cars. MS3 has settings for injector switching for running dual fuels - different AFR targets / injector dead times etc. It runs off the same injector drivers, with relays to electrically switch the injectors, or if you have enough injector drivers onboard using 1-4 for petrol, 5-8 LPG etc..
  14. What size wheel is it for? I've got a genuine LR one that I was bought as a present a few years ago - but it doesn't fit with 285s... I think it's for 235x85R16 and smaller...
  15. I *may* have a throttle body injection unit from a US truck somewhere in the garage - I was going to do a very similar conversion on my old Essex powered 90 but never got round to it. I'll have a look tomorrow - if I can find it you are welcome to it...
  16. I went to the Reading branch at about 9.15 today (sshhhh, don't tell work!) - they had an empty box on the shelf, and no pricing details or a 'spot' for it on the display... I took the empty box to reception and they went and got me one from the back.. So if you can't spot them it's probably worth asking...
  17. I have one in the back of the car as well.... Along with a cheap 10m air hose reel, socket set, mixed washers, etc etc etc
  18. Air in the system manifested itself on mine as 'lumpy' steering - turning from lock to lock wasn't smooth. A few turns of lock to lock back and forth and 15 mins driving round and it bled itself. Maybe belt is slipping a bit after the stress on the system of starting up / increased draw on alternator / all fluids cold etc...
  19. Looks like the plasma cutter isn't available until Thursday...
  20. Quick heads up for those that like their toys, Lidl are launching their Plasma Cutters this Thursday in the 'middle of Lidl aisle of surprise': https://www.lidl.co.uk/en/p/diy/parkside-plasma-cutter/p29579 They've been available on the continent for a while and there's a few reviews out there which are mainly positive..
  21. Hi All Ever since I've had the 110 the handle to open the boot door has been incredibly stiff... The initial lift of the handle for the first quarter of an inch or so is OK, but then when it engages with the mechanism to undo the door it requires a *lot* of upwards push. I've tried feeling oil into it but it's not helped.. I seem to remember reading somewhere that they tend to get heavy when they are worn out - but is there anything else to try (other than stronger arms ) before looking for a replacement?
  22. I used a cheap one from ebay on the 90 - it worked OK once installed. From what I remember it was a bit of a faff getting the actuators to sit in the right places but not too bad. The 110 has a similar kit, one of the pushrod connectors (that joins the solenoid rod to the LR lock/unlock rod) corroded away, so has since been bodged but the kit works fine...
  23. I've got the bits to fit the LR original electric window mechanisms to mine, I've jut not got round to it yet (it's been on my list for about 5 years!) There's a guide from one of the magazines that walks through it - https://issuu.com/mobilecentre/docs/lrm_electric_windows
  24. There's a few things that a gas ECU can do that MS1/2 cannot - different stoich values for gas / petrol map, gas pressure / temp compensation, coping with wildly different injector dead times, auto fuel switching, that kind of thing. Probably nothing that wouldn't stop you from getting it working, but it's not as simple as it sounds. You can do it in MS3, which even has a settings for injector switching via relays, but very few people on here are running MS3...
  25. One thing to bear in mind for anyone about to attempt this: Technically the injector doesn't care, but the owner may in the future.... If you ever want to fit a multipoint LPG kit, this has to be connected on the negative side of the injector. If you try and connect it to the positive side, it won't work... So my advice would be: Pick a standard for when you put the injector plugs on. Then write it down There appears to be two manufacturers ways of wiring it up: Standard : Pin 1 Positive, Pin 2 Negative Inverted : Pin 1 Negative, Pin 2 Positive (Wiring loom side, I believe pin 1 is to the right when looking at the back of the connector with the metal clip at the top). It looks like LR use the Inverted standard from the factory. It may save you a lot of faffing around in the future. You can guess how I know this! 🙄
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