wkw90
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Posts posted by wkw90
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Nice job for £200
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See if you can find a local nut & bolt shop, they're handy for all the weird stuff you get on LR's so getting friendly by buying some normal stuff instead of using Screwfix etc.
There's also Namrick for party packs of nuts & bolts etc. and one of my local nut & bolt shops is online C P Fasteners.
Many thanks Namrick was just the sort of thing i was looking for
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Looking for a good supplier for nuts and bolts
Paul
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Customer care No: 01841 541348
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Your more than welcome to come clean mineIt rather depends on the finish you want to get - just clean, but still stained, clean to bare metal, or clean enough to paint. With steel/cast iron I clean with petrol, then remove rust/old paint with various wire brushes (angle grinder knotted flat wire brush or cup for large areas of steel, smaller wire brushes in an electric drill for the pokey bits), then rinse with brake cleaner or cellulose thinners before priming/painting.Cast iron (engine block)-
Steam cleaned and then old paint etc removed with various wire brushes-
New core plugs-
Other side, and now ready for engine enamel-
Lick of paint and it's as good as new
Or if you have 'different' tastes
Alloy is different in a few ways. It's softer, so you have to be careful how you clean it - especially gasket faces. Not only does it get oily/dirty, but it oxidises as well, which is only another form of rust, but cleaning it takes more care and therefore more time.
Filthy dirty alloy bit-
I cleaned the parts with petrol, then various brass wire brushes in an electric drill/ by hand to remove dirt and oxidisation, then rinse with brake cleaner or cellulose thinners and paint.
Like I said - it depends on what finish you want. If you just clean something, then you are likely to be promoting faster/more corrosion - so a layer of oily muck would have been preferable if you don't intend to go further than a clean-up.
Cleaning/de-greasing/cleaning again/painting, looks like it takes ages, but that's not the case at all.
I used just petrol to clean internal engine parts and a soft wire brush in an electric drill. Bunging any old chemicals on finely machined surfaces is a really bad idea. Carbon deposits - such as you would find on crankshafts etc, will become dry after being rinsed with petrol and is then easier to remove with soft brushes - by hand or in a drill. Carbon particles are very abrasive, so make sure it's all removed.
Les.
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I did use paint thinners but it kept melting my rubber gloves and fumes / explosion risk not so good. Bought a gallon tin of Hyper Clean, really good stuff, washes off with water and doesn't stink / melt everything in sight but was too pricey at £20
on the side it says 'Contains: Kerosene'.were do you get it
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Thanks to all for advice , i dont have an air line so is it ok just to let them air dry ? i would spray them with wd40 .
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Thanks ,i am off to tesco
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Oddly enough, Cilit Bang - it's moves any crud
Bang and the dirt is gone
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What is the best thing to clean off engine parts with ie pistons , crank ect .
Paul
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Well i think i ll try to get hold of a 3.9 complete with all its bits and start from there , how is it i have gone from a simple rebuild to this
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For that kind of budget I'd consider putting a chunk of it towards sourcing an EFi setup and Megasquirt'n'EDIS, that will give you greatly improved power, and driveability, plus better economy and of course water resistance.
You don't need EFI heads to run EFI, the notch for the injector spray is miniscule and I doubt it really makes a great difference. If you're bothered, get the dremel out while you're rebuilding it and make some notches.
What is Megasquirt'n'EDIS ??
Paul
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9.35:1 is a goodie
Whats the timing cover off, and also the heads - please advise ?
Frankly you can buy a set of EFI heads and wiring bits bobs etc and gain BHP and smoothness,.....
In fact someone was selling an complete efi unit set for £100, look in classifieds ?
With a (sensible) budget of £1000 theres quite a lot you can do on the list above I posted
Nige The engine is from a 1984 rrc , How complex a job is fitting Efi heads ect
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Thanks to all for advice so far .Comp ratio is 9.35 , its being rebuilt due to broken ring , block is very good , and not much in the way of sludge on rocker covers ect . Not really looking to up the power just doing as i had to . budget wise i was looking to spend around £1000 .1st I would ask which Comp Ratio it is,being in a 90 means it could be 1 of many, if its a low Comp motor I wouldn't waste your money, and go get a 3.5 EFI one rebuild that and shove in for easy fitment of a load more BHP.
If it is a decent compression motor then fine, ....why is it being rebuilt, ......and whats the state of the insides / Bore / inside rocker covers etc etc
How much of a rebuild are we talking about here, ....and whats your budget. ?
On top of this do you want (whichever the engine used in the end) to extract any more BHP ?.
if so then now is the time to do it, but it will mean working it into the rebuild and workstream.
For a std rebuild I would always suggest
Block - chemically cleaned and a glaze bust minimum on the block
Heads - skimmed to raise comp ratio to compensate for reduced comp since composite gaskets used, possible block decked as well
Head bolts - Bin and use ARB Head studs
Vandervelt Main and Big ends bearings, to suit crank - polish or a regrind ?
Genuine Piston rings
Mod to valley area 2x small holes at front of valley to assist oil drain back and timing chain lube
Duplex Timing chain and steel gears
RTV sump on rather than a gasket
Composite head gaskets
Use all genuine seals and gaskets inc late type rubber V8 Rocker doubries
If heads are 2x spring per valve type - bin and fit a set of EFI heads
Frankly on a low grade V8 / light (no insult intended) I would honesty say Shimming rocker posts is OTT and will gain virtually nothing
For soft increase BHP of a carb V8 fit Piper 270 Cam and new followers
Increase needle size in carb can't remember which ones but I have it written down if you need
If you can afford - Block crank pistons flywhel assemble have balanced
Bottom end build.... and then add EFI top end / heads and EFI system over the carbs (yes MS even better
)HTH
Nige
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Would help tpo know more about it
ie
Carb EFI
CC
existing mods
tweaks / wish list at the end
Application ???
Nige
Its carb , 3.5 , no mods , its in a 90
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Just about to start on the rebuild of my engine , just looking for any advice on best place to get parts ie bearings , gaskets , rings ect
Thanks Paul
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You may have to pay for that as well then .. whats wrong virgin i have them and seems ok . Would not have BT if they paid me
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how high up do you live cos sky wont install over 30ft you have to pay to have the dish put up
Paul
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There's plenty of those on here, should you ever find the urge too great to ignore!!!
cant be feeding anymore kids have to feed mine twice a month
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You could buy a sony unit for around £100 that way you can buy the interface to work with your controls
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or a bigger kidyou need a bigger whip.
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If you buy things from the internet dont you have the right to send them back no matter what within 28 days .
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so how many miles do you get per child ???
Don't know yet he still can't get it out the drive no matter how hard i crack the whip
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wow, thats gotta be the youngest forum member
Yep i am looking good for 34
on the side it says 'Contains: Kerosene'.
Electrical Know how
in International Forum
Posted
Great site thanks