Daan

Not without a lot of trouble, I think. What you can do is fit the engine bell house side from the 200 tdi to the 300 tdi engine. Than the LT77 fits. The strength is virtually the same, especially if it is an LT77S (last version, with wider gears), which if it is from a 200 tdi, it should be. I have run this setup for years and much prefer the LT77 for off roading, since reverse is next to 1st and second. Transfer box fits to either, as mentioned before, use the 1.003 version with portals. These can be found in range rover v8 automatics. You are making an assumption here, and you know what assuming does... We want a build thread! This the modified and special builds section and pretty much anything goes. Daan

After last years cancellation, it is all change at the Croatia Trophy; There is a new location, but more importantly there is a new class structure. Apart from the Trophy class and adventure class, there is now also the Legend class; This is a class for production based vehicles. Space frames and portal axles are not allowed in this class, which is good news for us with land rover based vehicles. It means a more level playing field is created and we don't have to retire our vehicles just yet. I would have preferred a maximum tyre size as well, but from where they were with no rules at all, this is big step forwards: http://croatia-trophy.org/ct/info-17th-ct/ Any takers? Daan

Hi, and welcome to the forum. Could be an EGR valve stuck (there are 2). replacement or block it off with an EGR blanking kit tends to solve the problem. Daan

Look what can be done: I would move in here! Daan

Sankey trailer?

Will it have a diff? Daan

...Just not on the way back: https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-tayside-central-45964816 Expensive mistake! Daan

Nigel, I don't know the answer to your question, but I do know that Trident racing supplies in Silverstone sells girling master cylinders which look identical to landrover ones, and have 3 different bore sizes. Could be worth a punt: Daan

I fitted the aluminium with plastic ends. It is all that cars are made with today. And today's cars are a lot more reliable than cars coming from the copper rad era. It is technically possible that they fail, but how often do you change rads on modern cars? Did you not just answer your own question? Daan

Steve, the disco 2 box is quicker, but does need a bit of work to fit. It has a larger sector shaft as well. Unfortunately, it is not very strong, as the worm is made of cheese. The P38 steering box is actually slower. The simbughinis had 2 steering dampers (one in front of the axle and one behind), the fast ratio box, the arm redrilled and the castor reset on the axle. Quickest way to get more caster is to redrill the swivel balls, I think. This has the advantage that the diff stays in the same orientation Daan

Plasma from ruftracks: http://www.ruftraks.co.uk/

Keeping it simple tends to make things more achievable; certainly, the most ambitious builds do have a habit of ending up never seeing the light of day. So starting with a 109 or 110 chassis makes your live a factor 10 easier. You know all about parabolics from your 88" build, so you are best qualified to make that judgement. Certainly grille backwards at all cost, should be easy achievable on a LWB with almost any engine. If P38 running gear takes your fancy, a 110 chassis I reckon could work best; swap axles, box and engine. Could be ok under IVA rules if you start with a 110 V8 chassis and V5. Tax wise much better than trying to base it on a P38 chassis.

Great progress. You are spurring me on: I need a new project! Daan

The bearing inside the pedal assembly could have seized; take it apart and give it a good clean might solve the problem; you can replace the bolt in the pivot pin for a grease nipple to stop it happening again. Daan

Nice landy, and welcome to the fold. Daan