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Daan

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Everything posted by Daan

  1. So, the Grenadier has been out for some time, and people are starting to modify them: Reulsport was early, with a lift kit, rock sliders, and chunky wheels: https://www.reulsport.com/produit/braid-winrace-t-8x18-ineos-grenadier/ Black sheep innovations, more for the overlander: https://www.blacksheep-innovations.com/en/ineos-grenadier-2/
  2. So the footrest is the most talked about problem of the grenadier: I did sit in one at Goodwood FOS, and I cannot say that would be a deal breaker for me. Perhaps it is on longer journeys? But it seems it is the deal breaker for a lot of people. So I presume it covers the exhaust. I took a piccy as there was one elevated: I can see a grinder/welder-based solution turning up before too long, looking at this picture. Taking out the floor insulation lowers it by about an inch: Any one had a go at this yet?
  3. I thought it was a good review; He is honest, not just bashing stuff, but also pointing out good things. I mean, he had to borrow a Grenadier from a friend, as Ineos wouldn't give him one to try. Because of this, he could easily have made a very bad review, but he didn't. The footrest, which he thought was a non-item at the beginning, was the deal breaker in the end though. I reckon Jim will have to use his persuasion to the best with Magna Styer, as that footrest is hurting sales for RHD countries.
  4. Is the footrest the result of exhaust routing? Can it be modified?
  5. The ozi explorer is testing one: Must admit, I want one.
  6. I am not scared of a dealer, just of their prices. I bought my previous car with a full 3 year VW manufacturer warranty on the VW financial services auction for ex-leased cars. The auction is where the car traders buy, I just trying to undercut them by £1500-£2000. There is very little comeback to used car traders in my experience, so why pay extra for it? I found this one, looks like some good stock, and allows civilians: https://www.g3remarketing.co.uk/
  7. Can you go smaller in engine size? The Ford Ecoboost engine looks like a good option, and will definitely be more efficient:
  8. a 200 is 12 psi, or 0.83 bar a 300 is 12.5 psi, or 0.86 bar a 300 auto is 15 psi, or 1.03 bar. So I'd say 15 psi or 1.03 is the highest that Land rover approves and will be save to use on a TDI. This is what I run, and that works very well with it. Very important is also the inlet temp after inter cooler, if this temperature is too high, the gains are a case of diminishing returns, and also give high EGTs.
  9. Astonbarclay is a no go for normal people with the motor trade policy, the newark one looks ok, but not that much on offer. That looks a good option, and even a few landys! Registered for Brightwells. Trade insurance only on this one. Thanks for the reply's so far. With regards to values, the tables seem to have turned in recent months; Although prices were through the roof since covid, the cost of living crisis has now stopped people buying anything flashy, and a few cars are being repossessed from PCP deals due to people defaulting on their payments. Range rovers prices especially have more than halved since a year ago, but this is mainly down to insurance I think. Looks like people are downsizing on their cars, and the only cars that sell well at the moment are 5k or less bargain basement cars. I will monitor prices over the course of 2024. We are in no rush, as our current cars still work.
  10. Hi, I am looking to replace both our daily drivers over the next year. I tend to avoid dealerships and car traders as they cannot be trusted (just my opinion). My current car I bought at the BCA car auction in 2012. You used to be able to get registered for a nominal fee, then turn up and raise your hand at the right time. Since Covid, however, normal people are no longer welcome at the major auctions, only car traders. Is there any car auction that still welcomes normal people and has reasonable say 5 year old cars? Midlands preferred, but willing to travel. Daan
  11. It also depends if you are living in an area where defenders get nicked a lot. If your car is on the drive way or in a garage makes a difference to this risk.
  12. A higher compression ratio will help run it more efficiently as well. Skim as much of the head as you dare.
  13. Flux has been good to me.
  14. I am fairly sure the full size and sport rangerovers use identical running gear.
  15. I saw that website on my trawls of Google. Sounds like he uses the same principles on his Jeep that I used on my Land Rover.
  16. With the exhaust done, it is time to get the body fitted. My brother-in-law came over from Prague with his 2 lads to come and visit Goodwood FOS, so I had 3 bodies at my disposal to lift the tub on: I knew it essentially fits, but a few details need modding: one body mount on the chassis needs to move 30mm forward: The gear tower on the gearbox sits higher and therefore needed a larger hole cutting in the tunnel: This is essentially all it needs to fit the Willys M38 body on to the Mahindra chassis. Further mods were needed as a result of fitting the PAS box and the VW engine. The body mount clashed with the oil filter, solved with a grinder: The PAS box is clashing with the RH front wing. There is a large speed bulge for the battery, and this almost clears the PAS box. I just needed to move the front joggle forwards by 50mm: On the LH side, the PAS pump pully interferes with the wing. I did a big cutout where the reinforcement rib is and made this the location of a step in the vertical portion of the wing. An intended dent is there to avoid the PAS pump feed pipe, and I extended the cut out for the shock absorber: The Willys grille just bolts onto the Mahindra grille mounts, but there is a 3rd mount in the middle on the Willys grille, which the Mahindra chassis does not have, so I made a bracket (no picture). Mounted, it all looks like this: It now looks like a proper car, which is a great motivator. I think the front height looks about right, but the rear sits far too high. Not sure what to do here yet: Thanks for reading!
  17. You cannot get the bushes separately, and they have a larger OD from standard bushes. There is a solution with polybushhes:
  18. That's my kind of back garden: Stonefield 4X4 Forward Control, | eBay
  19. More of the same kicking the can up the road; If you go to the trouble to remove the pistons, you may well be putting in new ones, or you could well be doing the same job again in a few year's time, in which case it is £500 down the drain. Following on from what Fridge is saying, could you do 2 engines at the same time? Perhaps get a good deal on getting 2 blocks re-bored and a better deal on 2 part sets? It would also reduce the build time considerably, as you just do everything twice, as opposed to doing 2 rebuilds separately. Not the thing you want to hear, I know, but I'd say long-term could be worth doing. I bought a new engine in 2000- and I still run it today with very few repairs, apart from new bearing shells and a replacement crank when I put a rock through the sump, which was accidental. The outlay was hard to swallow at the time, but I never regretted it. That said, it was half the price of what Turner's asks for a rebuilt engine now. how times change!
  20. Rebuild your spare engine. Looking at the Turner's website, a rebuild engine looks expensive, but the parts are really cheap. I am telling you what you already know, but as they say advice is what you ask for if you already know the answer, but wish you didn't. Daan
  21. I'd say 4.1 diff ratios would be ideal. As mentioned the standard 4-speed transmission will have its hands full coping with the torque of a TDI, a bigger turbo will only help to accelerate its demise. Daan
  22. You can buy a longer drop arm off the shelf. Alternatively, in Comp safari I have seen people drilling another hole in the drop arm which is part of the swivel housing, to make the arm shorter. Neither I fancy much, as the steering box is already prone to breaking in standard form. Would be good to know how the truw steer compares. Daan
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