Daan

We spend days discussing the flywheel, and you did it in about half an hour!

I believe he was on this forum known as Landrover17H; He was kicked out of this forum (and several other forums) because of his use of Audible foul Language and generally being a total Bell end. So if you have facial hair and member of this forum, this is about you: Quick rant…/ I'm fed up with the forum-fools. This kit works because.... there’s one servo, not four differing self-servo effects at each corner; each can't move fractionally out of adjustment with the other; each can't fractionally move further 'out of time' and line with the other; each cannot do this with every use. Instead, we see consistent, even, safe brakes which will work and stay this way. You do not fit discs to a leafer to avoid brake-fade, excepting the Welsh mountains etc, at Series speeds you'll not get brake-fade. You’ll read on forums how: "You don't understand the design, all it takes is correct-adjustment and proper maintenance." "They managed perfectly well in 1954" etc etc. Sadly, usually facial-hair with no thought about timing, bias and proportioning. No amount of maintenance or fiddlin' and 'magic-touch' with snail-adjusters will make Series drums ‘work’ as this kit - even when new.

You'd need an R380 with a short bell housing. Also, how short is the rear prop shaft? I reckon, in order to make this engine clear the front diff (at full bump!), I reckon it needs going up and backwards.

You are mental. This conversion will certainly brush up your wiring skills!

Not ideal when barrel rolling down a hill. Perhaps for deep wading, but it needs a matching snorkel of the same height.

Congratulations, glad to see a series landy being used as well! Daan

Cheers, The trouble with scanned surfaces is the shear size of them, and of the processing power required to spin the model like they do here. It also is not that accurate and consists of a cloud of points. I suspect things have moved on and there will be ways to turn them into surfaces, but whenever I was given scanned surfaces, they were pretty wonky, not straight basically. You always have to back it up with hand measurements in my experience. Good for scenery of your model, but not particularly reliable geometry. I have used a Faro arm coordinate measurement machine in the past to design roll cage legs. You just hold tubes in the place where you want it and measure 6 points (3 on each end) on the tube to establish the locations of the center lines in space. The software spit out a bend formula of what shape to bend the tube. The way I did it here was with minimum technology so to speak. I have CAD, so I used it but could have worked out the space between bends on paper if need be. So you don't strictly need CAD.

I would fit A 300 TDI to solve the clearance issues you have to the front axle and potentially fit a VNT turbo if you want more poke. Best bang for buck i'd say. From what I saw of the closeness of the front diff, I reckon any V8 option is a problem in this area. Have we come to conclusion on gearing?

Time for an update: with the body still off and the turbo mounted, the exhaust was the next logical thing to do. A stainless exhaust is the done thing here appropriately sized to the engine. I went with a 2 1/4” size tube, one size up from the 2” that the VW Passat has. I have previously done a stainless exhaust on my Landy, using individual bends and straight sections welded together to form a fabricated exhaust. It works ok to this day, but I always thought there must be a better way to do this, as you do end up with a lot of welded joints. So I was looking to get an exhaust bent up. To do this I needed to get coordinate points measured in 3D space. I started a mockup exhaust with some leftover tubes: Ghetto fab at its best basically, but this was done to decide where the tubes need to go. From here I could measure the intersection points of the center lines in 3D: I used the gearbox mounting face as my X=0 datum, the outer edge of the RH chassis rail as my Y=0 datum, and the garage floor as my Z=0 datum. From this, I could measure with a tape measure the X, Y, and Z coordinates of the center line intersections. Once I had these points I had to do a shift of the coordinates so the first coordinate point is X=0, Y=0, Z=0. Next, I drew this on CAD to visualize how it would look. This is not strictly necessary but is good to make sure you do not design something that can not be made. There is a certain amount of minimum straight length required between bends, I had to do a few adjustments in my design to achieve this. CAD model: CAD drawing: I got a company appropriately called tube bender to do the bending: https://tube-bender.co.uk/ A CNC mandrel bender can bend the exhaust using the X, Y, and Z coordinates as the input. This turned up in the post a while later: Tube bender did a great job to turn my drawing into reality; the bent tube came out spot-on and fitted like a glove. A 12 x 6” silencer, flexible join, and V-band clamps were bought from Exhaust Parts UK: https://exhaustpartsuk.com/ Mounting was a doddle and very little workshop time was needed to get it mounted: All joints are left tacked together for now, in case I need to change anything. Pleased with the result, bending up a tube like this was cheaper than buying the individual bends and straights, and looks a bit more factory. Thanks for reading!

Not a fan of that system personally, but one winch going both directions can work.

Turbo is not turned up, but has the original boost of a discovery automatic, which is 15PSI. Boost pin would have no effect, as the pin is locked solid. The disco auto delivers 122bhp, which is what mine will be:

You could even run the 8274 in the back and winch through the car to the front, and take a loop out if you want to winch to the rear.

None of that, I have to try very hard to get even a hint of smoke out of my exhaust, and the tops of the pistons are all bare metal, like new basically. As the max fuel delivery is per standard, the engine never runs rich under regular running. It only allows to have slightly more fuel under acceleration to reduce turbo lag. The difference is not massive, as the pump now decides on fuel delivery depending on throttle and RPM as opposed to throttle, RPM, and turbo pressure. If the RPM is low, the turbo pressure is also low, so it is not a big change. Not really, I have a few pics, bumper: Modified PTO: Daan

I am completely different in the tuning approach: I have replaced the boost pin screw with a longer one ( it is M8 fine thread) and fully adjusted the original boost pin in the down position (fully open). The max fuel delivery is unaltered, but it is available to you at any time. Anyone who has been in my car asks what the hell have i done to this engine, for it to deliver this power. It goes incredibly well (I have done a ton on road tires and 3.5 diffs). Also, I think your clearance issues will improve a lot with the fitment of a 300TDI. Daan

Someone has time to paint his vice; I might do that in my retirement too

These guys are good, bend up anything you want: https://tube-bender.co.uk/ Ebay shop, there is some landrover-specific stuff there as well: https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_ssn=tube-bender&store_cat=12595892013&store_name=Tube-Bender-Limited

That's true of about 99% of people who buy a Landrover.

Yes, most beadlock are single-sided, but that is usually enough. There are also traction forces to consider, which only go through one side wall in this arrangement. This can be the result:

When they are just fitted with soap, yes they will. But my comment about time is that with a tire mounted for a long time, it seems to fuse to the rim, and it is almost impossible to get the tire off the rim. This also means it wont come off when aired down.

Tubeless rims + tubes. I fit the tyres without soap and air down to 10 psi if needed. If the tyre has been on the rim for a year or longer, 5 psi is possible without the tyre coming off.

Inner tubes never failed me.

Well we, do have about 10 K members... Send me a PM if you need anything. Show time:

John Sales made these double bead locks for me to do Ladoga: He essentially cut a 15" modular type wheel in half and welded the bolt rings in to create a split rim. A 16" PVC tube was used to clamp the beads together, and a large O ring meant for a manhole cover was used to seal the 2 halves. Very effective and cheap, I aired down to 2 PSI to drive the swamps. I can design the bolt rings for you on CAD to get them water cut if you want me to. Daan

Ideally I would aim for 16" diameter and 1 inch thick, sorry 3mm thick.

I was thinking of this when I designed it: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/155573362900?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20201210111314%26meid%3Dfffb1772f31d4fb6bedb6761ea1dbfd8%26pid%3D101195%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D155573362843%26itm%3D155573362900%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv11WebTrimmedV3MskuWithLambda85KnnRecallV1V4V6ItemNrtInQueryAndCassiniVisualRankerAndBertRecall%26brand%3DCompomotive&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851&amdata=cksum%3A155573362900fffb1772f31d4fb6bedb6761ea1dbfd8|enc%3AAQAIAAABUA2rugFlOq3qu1cLac%2F%2Fk6Vp0Oa0HaJIqoXKeIiOR%2BTUgsSvHaeyPxKYu6UqHqq7GaGyKVqHQnjeiiXcQpMGw2t3aB%2BssGfjtIWOBj8wExc7oYYP7xGMyQCrHDyDaSaWjB1CueI3A94n0yxXX5dx5gBp61OjlOb%2BiWeb%2BsO0WnM3lEfAH7Shtc2hlMW4lWP9ILiJCAl30mHWn326JrwAVE0HEo9HQiV3sFXvaonTmtpyWi8x3diLOT%2BfwONrD%2FJXlIW7ZlNwbTPIQsSOZ9vhRLj7yydNNWy%2F0SmvzPTk2dBQdQn2bM6KUD%2FAG21gL5Cb6BSyoxuosrNnvCHzFfTVx1KAu4%2BFefV1P0QU7BsLtMH8CuEdczsCDTGu4BhfN6BKVJzsjZD3fex3CARvv37K7qHU5phcMNMevWPN1o0AmD%2Fwm46ldCg95WQB4vGe1IoHiQ%3D%3D|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2047675 You could use a waterjet cut flat disc to mount it to the hub.