SORNagain

That one does look like some work Fridge, but it's all there. An original restoration?

Well thanks for your help guys, I have finally done it: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575378759&campid=5338273189&customid=&icep_item=193174701592&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229508&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg&toolid=11111 Cor blimey, setting a reserve is a bit expensive innit? They want 4% of the reserve price up to a max of £150, regardless of if it sells or not! I wrestled with that one for a while...🤔

Thanks Chaps, that's exactly the sort of input I was looking for! In an attempt to solve the 'not reading anything' problem I have done a walk round video which shows the thing warts and all. I'll embed that in the listing. It was a frustrating and faintly embarrassing experience which I hesitate to post here, but: Be kind 😉 Interesting your comments on reserves; as a buyer I find them frustrating so I wasn't going to bother, but now I might reconsider! Also I thought telephone numbers were not permitted in listings, is that not so? Getting a realistic buyer is something I am worried about; it's 45 years old and has had 7 owners! It's comes from an era where there's a shortage of digits on the odometer - it might have done 100k or it might be 300 - who knows? The last thing I need is someone concerned about a rattle under the dash. Thanks again for your comments gents, very helpful. I'll probably post it tomorrow. Prepare for the Muppets!

Yeah I don't fancy a mugging! It's mechanically sound but cosmetically rather tatty. It's MOT exempt, but it passed one the other day with no advisories 😎 It's not very original so I wouldn't imagine a specialist would be interested, but really I have no idea.

First post in a long time. Sorry if this is not the right place.... I have finally decided I have to sell my Range Rover. I don't use it enough, and it needs a better home than I can give it. Anyway, it's going to be an Ebay job. I have sold a vehicle on EBay before, but only for a few hundred quid. I'm hoping this will go for a little more! I have written the listing, but before I post it are there any do's and don't for selling vehicles on EBay? For example I see some sellers requiring a deposit on end of auction. Is cash still king or is mobile banking the norm? Any advice appreciated! Thanks, Rob

Slight difference in the age of our vehicles but they are both v8s so it could be relevant. I had occasional (scary) lack of braking and it turned out to be the non-return valve on the top of the manifold that goes to the servo. It was sticking - just took a clean with some solvent to get it moving freely again. There's actually a valve at both ends of the hose, so it could be either one. Not sure how the abs complicates things. A bit of a long shot, but easy to check so worth a go I reckon.

I wouldn't be too worried about the earth, as the output of the inverter is isolated. Like a building site transformer you could touch live or neutral without a shock, just not at the same time! Rcds don't care about earth either - they just compare the current going out with what is coming back. If they are not equal it trips, the assumption being some current must be flowing to earth. You can connect the mains earth to chassis, this is the safest thing to do since you never know how good the insulation in the inverter is. Your rcd will do nothing unless the insulation in inverter fails and you have an inadvertent connection to earth externally. (The test button will still work but that's different!) Edit: or as Les says and bond n&e. Then your rcd will work properly!

Check the fuse in the plug before taking the back off the telly? Unless you want to take the head off of course....

Neither me thinks. Looks like they have changed their numbering system: http://www.sipuk.co.uk/sip-ishp8-200-airmate-industrial-air-compressor-petrol-honda.html

There's a couple of places I could suggest, but to be honest I'm not sure they would be any safer than a residential street - maybe less so. For peace of mind and not inconveniencing the locals (I.e me!) there's always this: http://www.portsmouth-port.co.uk/ferry_passengers/parking_3 Bit spendy though.

Wow. I don't have a winch, don't know how it fits but clearly that is a lovely piece of metal.

...and where was it delivered?

Did you put the blue marking on the ring or on the pinion? Those pics don't mean much to me either....

I think I'll just work out what the pulse width at 80% & 5000rpm is and use that. I'm not sure if it will matter anyway; I'm only after a comparative measurement between the injectors. Yikes! I'm not sure I want to go near it again! Now I've verified the spray pattern though, I don't think I'll have to run it like that anymore. I reckon I had over a litre 'float away' during the testing... Interestingly the fuel collected in the tray had a very milky apprearance. It didn't settle out if left, but did clear when it was recycled back into the tank and the pump started. At first I thought this was contamination getting caught by the filter, but later realised it could be water absorbed from the air. Something about the way the fuel was circulating seemed to separate the water again, as I could see some drops in the bottom of the tank. Not completely sure it wasn't water from the jerry can though. I should be able to test this by having a smaller closed volume as you describe. It's been a real surprise to me how good the injector cleaner was, and how ineffective throttle body cleaner proved to be. I've been joking about Reddex for years - homeopathy for cars - I guess now I'd better tuck in to the humble pie!

I love a good MSP! Yeah real slow, so I could observe the spray pattern. Oddly enough the launch pad is running the code it was shipped with; when I first plugged it in it flashed the LED's at about the same rate as I wanted so I just left it. All I know is that when I press one of the buttons it stops and does something else - dunno what - and I reset to start it again! Looks about 1Hz at 50% duty to me. For the flow measurement I wasn't sure whether I was going to run the injectors for a certain time & measure the volume, or measure a certain volume and count the pulses required to get there. I've since dug out a glass flask with a narrow neck that can measure 1l +/-0.4ml so I think I'll be doing the latter. I want to pulse the injectors to eliminate the time for opening & closing rather than measuring the continuous flow. It will make the timing easier too. Any idea what a ballpark pulse width at WOT will be?

Hi folks, Finally got round to testing the injectors I plan to use for a megasquirt install. It turned out to be interesting, so I thought I'd share. One thing I forgot to mention if you are going to try this: This uses a fair volume of fuel and produces loads of vapour, so it's worth ensuring there can be no sparks (i.e. no dodgy connections), work in a well ventilated area, and have a decent extinguisher handy should the unthinkable happen. I even set my phone to flight mode, but that's probably just paranoia... Obvious I know, but best say it anyway.

I think we got there finally. I see what you're saying. However even with my auxiliary batteries discharged to 10.8 volts I never see the ammeter on the starter swing negative when the relay kicks in. The alternator can and is coping with the demand, which is why I suggested a simple split charge relay would be adequate for Mav's vehicle. This does rely on some decent wiring though; certainly getting rid of the alternator wire that takes the scenic route round the engine compartment is a must. Provided your starter isn't being depleted under these conditions, a vsr or 'drop less' diode pack doesn't bring much to the party. I used to design split charge controllers with algorithms to sort this stuff out, yet for my own vehicle I chose a decent alternator, wiring and relay. What's that tell you? Sure, it might be different if there was 600Ah as an auxiliary but for normal set ups I'd keep it simple every time. Or fit 2 alternators. Mav, what battery are you thinking of anyway?

I was gonna let this lie, but apparently I can't help myself... AMB, if you have an alternator capable of maintaining 14v across the terminals of both the batteries, how have you got current flowing out of one and in to the other? This would be true if the alt couldn't cope of course. The charge current flow is not as simple as just considering the internal resistances. If that were true, putting 13.8 volts on a fully charged (12.8v) battery would result in a big current. That doesn't happen...

Uh-oh, can open worms everywhere! 'Simple physics' would suggest that if you have an alternator capable of supplying the required current, both batteries will be charging happily. My original comment was that the duration for which the alternator can't cope is generally so short it's not worth worrying about, as I illustrated in my set up. I think that unless Mav has hundreds and hundreds of Ah in the back of his truck a normal relay will be fine. I appreciate that is not the perfect solution, but as land rover owners we have to be pragmatic!

I don't think so. Provided the alternator can provide enough current, neither battery will be discharging.

It's definately not charging then... Alternator does sound suspect - I'm just wondering if the brushes fail open then would this leave the charge light on or off? Not sure - off probably. Which means the flickering is difficult to explain; I normally expect rectifiers & regulators to go with a pop! I guess all you can do is check the connections and then throw a new one on it. I'd check the voltages on the back of the alternator to see if it's a wiring problem.

In my experience the battery surge problem isn't really a problem in practice. Even with a depleted battery although the initial charge current can be quite high, it quickly settles down to 20A or so, and then tapers down from there. At the point where the alternator can cope with both loads, neither battery is being depleted. This generally happens so quickly it's not worth worrying about. I have about 200Ah of auxilliary battery in my truck, a 90A alternator, normal split charge relay, and current meters on both the starter and the auxiliary batteries. I have never seen the starter battery swing negative when the relay clicks in, regardless of the state of the auxilliary. It does swing negative if I have the headlights on and my wife puts a couple of slices of bread in the toaster, but that's a different story... I second the isolator across the positives for jump starting...and it makes for an easy place to mount your relay.

Just reading this old thread and realised what is going on - thought I would just close it off. To ensure constant flow through the injectors the pressure regulator is referenced to the plenum. The pressure guage is referenced to atmosphere. When you start the engine the regulator is happily maintaining the pressure at 38psi above the pressure in the plenum, which is 8 psi lower than atmospheric pressure. That's why the gauge drops to 30. If you had minimal inlet vacuum (low revs, high gear, WOT) the gauge would go back up to 38. Makes me think people running forced induction must need a pretty decent pump...

Hey, Zoltan. Any progress on this thing? The engineering is too good to waste...

Heap of doubt there may be, but next door there is an ever growing mountain of statistical evidence. There's 'no actual proof' that smoking causes cancer, but the statistics increasingly indicate this is the case. Same with the effect of CO2 on global warming.