Lobosdoc

Thanks crwoody - thought definitely crossed my mind "where the %*$# did the vanes end up?" so I did a full oil and fuel filter x 2 change before replacing the pump. Very kind of you to extend that warning though - and I didn't examine the rotor carefully - I'll do that, and consider another oil change too! Anyone think it's a bad idea to rebuild the vacuum pump? (assuming I can even find and source the vanes)

Hello all - I had the vacuum pump on my TD5 (the one fitted to the alternator) go out, and was hoping to rebuild it… Looks like the (presumably) carbon blades/vanes have all completely disintegrated! There’s not even a trace of them… Anyway, I’m pretty good and finding stuff online, but I can’t find anything – vacuum pumps are available second hand in the UK, but there are no repair kits, no parts, nothing – looks like LR considers it part of the alternator, and has never supplied it, or parts, separate. Does anyone know anyone who might be able to supply the blades, or even just measurements on vanes so I could source something? Pains me to be unable to fix it… Thanks, Eric

Thanks again Western - sorry for the duplicate post - did search the forum, but didn't turn up that one. From some of the pictures, it looks like mine has lost the trap portion - there's no rubber flap, just an open pipe. Looks like I just have to decide whether to replace it or do without - thanks for the info/help!

Well, maybe mine is defective or missing a part - I've got basically a T-piece at the low point of the air ducting, with the open pipe facing down. There's nothing to prevent water or dust from going up into the duct at that point, which means that if water reached that low ponit, it could get sucked in too - not to mention that any dust under the car could be pulled in - seems to pretty much defeat the purpose of a raised air intake...

Fantastic - thanks western! Seems like I'm not missing any parts though... I was looking at part #9 (ESR3162) in my truck, and felt that there must have been a missing part on the dump tube - seems like it would be counterproductive to have a possible water/dust inlet like that. Anyone know of a reason to leave it in place? I'm considering just removing it and having my air intake feed directly into the filter...

Hello all - just finished installing a new raised air intake on my TD5, and noticed, for the first time, that the one way valve at the low point of the incoming ducting is simply missing... There is an outlet on the ducting that faces down to exhaust any water that might enter from the air intake, but as it is simply an open pipe at this point it creates an open inlet for anything under the car to enter the air ducting... I've tried looking through my workshop manual, haynes manual, and bearmach fast parts diagram, but can't seem to find any diagrams of the air intake system to figure out what part used to be attached to that duct... Does anyone know the name of the valve or have a part number? Thanks, Eric

Wow - names are piling up. Will try not to duplicate... In the theme of a multi-product range, how about X-sentry, X-theft, X-watchdog or X-guarddog, X-aegis, X-watch, X-ward, X-hold, or X-intercept?

Thanks Si - I'll put a cap on my compulsiveness and stop looking for gremlins... it did occur to me that it could be a phantom fault, but not even understanding what the heck the error meant made me more curious...

Hi all - I know this error is listed everywhere in threads with people who have no real problems but a computer that has logged a ton of errors, but in this case, my nanocom is consistently returning "8,7 glowplug relay drive overtemperature (Logged)" despite clearing it multiple times. This is the only error I'm getting. I have absolutely no problems starting, no excessive smoke, and haven't noticed any problems while running. The glowplug light illuminates briefly when I turn the ignition, and goes out as expected - it does not illuminate whilst driving. I can feel the relay click on when I turn the ignition, and it turns off after 30 seconds to a minute, depending on how cold it is outside. When I clear the error, it does not return immediately, but rather will be logged at some point during several days of operation. I've checked the relay, grounds, and fuse, but don't see anything out of sorts. I have not yet taken out the glow plugs and examined them. I'm at a bit of a loss after examining the electrical and workshop manuals to even tell how the ECU can tell what temp the glow plugs or relay are... there don't seem to be any sensors anywhere - the ECU monitors only the coolant temp and battery voltage... Anyone sorted this problem before? Thanks, Eric P.S. This is a 2005 TD5, and the loom is clean - no oil.

Well, have sorted through all of the potential problems that folks have offered up, and seems that my fuel pressure regulator and pump are working well. Strangely, the problem seems to have resolved itself... So either something I changed/fixed allowed it work itself out, or something about my fiddling around in the areas where I didn't find a problem caused it to cease. I'm suspicious that maybe it was my wastegate after all, as I did oil it real well when I checked it's opening/closing, and maybe as the oil had a chance to set in, it gradually got better and better... Anyway, not a very satisfactory analysis, but I thought I'd post to state problem solved, and I learned quite about about how my fuel system works. Thanks to everyone who posted suggestions. Matt - I'm still intrigued by the idea of getting another ECU to play with, and possibly learning how to do the EEPROM reprograms, so you may be hearing from me in the not too distant future. Still a little unclear whether SteveG meant that running a standard map on my rig would be unadvisable because it wouldn't run well, or just that it would be a waste of a larger intercooler upgrade...

Hello all - sorry for the delay - got under the car and noticed a leak from a swivel pin housing, so I got a little side tracked. Looks like the fuel tank is clean, and at idle as well as full revs cylinder balances are running from 3 to -3 with occasional forays up to 5/-5. Injector loom looks good by visual inspection. I'll try checking fuel pressure next - thanks for the link Matt. Steve - thanks for the answers on the maps. Won't bother questioning why LR would create different file names for maps that are the same - sounds very LR. Is there any way to check my existing maps to see if they're non-standard? (i.e. Confirm it is running a stage 2 upgrade) I do have an upgraded intercooler and manifold studs - why would that make a standard map undesirable? In regards to the FPR potentially leaking, I haven't noticed what Steve describes, however it did make me wonder what kind of top speed people are seeing on their TD5s... Once I hit 80mph, though the engine doesn't sound like it's working particularly hard, and rpms aren't even approaching 4k, I seems to hit a ceiling - most I've ever coaxed out of it in a straightaway is 90mph... Not that I particularly *need* to go any faster, but it made me wonder if that could be another symptom... When I calculate potential top speed with known gear ratios it seems to be a bit slower than expected...

Are the Willem units pretty standard, or are there specifications I need to look for? Thanks Matt, Eric

Thanks guys - just got home, and will be spending the next few hours sorting through your suggestions. I think I will look around for a second hand ECU, per suggestions, rather than play with my one and only original, and I think I'll also start looking into the Willem unit Matt mentioned, as I do like tinkering with new things... To answer questions posed, my engine has 40K on the clock, and I have blanked the EGR and decat'd it. Fuel pump comes on with ignition and always seems to run quietly. MAF is new and seems to be working well. The cylinder balances seem to run within limits, though I've only really checked that at idle, as it's hard to maintain constant RPMs while switching screens on the Nanocom to access that data (I don't have an RPM gauge - just use the Nanocom). I suppose I could just floor it and watch - will try that. I've disconnected the ECU loom at both ends and didn't note any oil - is that still a problem on a 2005 model? Will also look into the injector loom and the fuel pressure. Will report back on my progress - thanks again... Eric

Thanks Tanuki - I'll try that tomorrow... I've got access to a fiberoptic scope, so I'll take a look down in the tank (nice not having to drop it). Any advice on an easy way to monitor fuel pressure while test driving? Don't think the Nanocom will display that... I've got a new filter on already... There's only 40k miles on the engine, so it's still relatively new... Anyone have any ideas on the fuel map differences between 90s and 110s?

Yeah, I've done that. Nanocom reports no faults - however, prior to my replacing the MAF, air flow had been sitting at 4.4 all the time, without generating a fault. Noting that is what led me to testing and finding the dead sensor, but it didn't generate any faults, so I'm guessing the ECU doesn't notice every problem...