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davyd8899

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Everything posted by davyd8899

  1. Worth changing the timing/cam belt and poly belt as well, depending on how long they have been on, again lots of really good guides to follow on here, would be a shame to replace the HG for the timing belt to snap further down the line,
  2. You can also cure the trailer light dash problem by wiring the indicators through a relay, which western very kindly showed me here:- http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=83285http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=83285http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=83285
  3. it says TD5 utility in the sub heading, that nice grey on grey writing
  4. with fear of being acccused of swearing, b**tp**t do rear quarter panels,non mechanical and can be treated with whatever you like so maybe worth a punt?
  5. You CAN make money out of land rivers, my first disco was a 300, paid 250 as a non runner, spent 600 on it and sold for 1300, current disco is a 300 bought for 250 with a knackard head, found a good 2nd hand one on here for 100 quid, with new bolts, gasket set etc, total cost of car was 410, and the chassis is solid! Shame the same can't be said about the boot floor though.........
  6. when you say radiator do you mean heater matrix or radiator (stupid question i know) only asking as your having heater issues and not overheat issues coolant flush in the matrix, leave it to soak then as said above hose over 1 pipe nice and tight and blow through, then alternate between pipes. if this doesnt work or its a new matrix then air is getting in somewhere, could be a piston liner, on the K series engine a pressure test wont show up an annealed head (gone soft) though i dont know if the TD5 suffers with this fault.
  7. was the head gasket displaying any other symptoms of failure, bubbles in expansion tank, oil and coolant mixing? probably stating the obvious, but have you checked the flaps behind the dash? failing that, blocked heater matrix? coolant flush? metal dowles should help not hinder.
  8. Thats great thankyou western, where can i find a 12V feed in the back or do i need to patch a wire from the ignition, and run it with an in line 5A fuse?
  9. Thank you western, do I take it right that i can get a relay and just wire in the indicators in through the said relay of the bumper as normal? like i say i am somewhat a novice at electrics!! and dieseldog, not fitted anything, i bought it like it is, thought bulbs were the problem, however, i own a LR so nothing is quite so simple as it seems!!
  10. another "i dont know you" post, but all the best for a speedy recovery
  11. this all came about when changing a brake bulb, the top light cluster has an indicator lens in it,also has a twin phase stop and tail light at the top (not sure what that type is actually called but i think you get what i mean), however the plug in the back of the cluster only carries wires for the fog, reverse and blake lights. my old disco that i sold rececently was the same year (94) had different lenses, they didnt have the indecator lenses in, am i right in saying they were introduced on later models and the lenses i have now are retro fit?? also is it just a case of taking a feed off the bumper lights for the tail lights as i would like to wire them up. The indecators would be trickier though because in my mind if i pick up a feed from the bumper indecators, then wouldnt the green trailer dash light/buzzer operate if i did this? I am really not electrically minded, i do own and know how to use a multimeter, and can wire up simple circuits but thats about my electrical know how!! sosilple terminology please!! Any thoughts and ideas gratefully recieved
  12. i second that, a real case of ignorance is bliss, ignorant people that dont know about the speedo or the rear view mirror....
  13. Although I think I will resist starting a thread titled 'Defender started fine today, how can I stop this?' That's an easy fix, just disconnect the fuel stop solenoid to prevent your defender from starting!!!
  14. A neadles width below the red still sounds to hot to me, unless you have a faulty guage/ temp sender, thermostat opens between 88-91 degrees , and the gushes should read on the middle, still flush the coolant system and clean the rad, see if that makes a difference. If not then I would for a different temp sender and see if you get a different fuego reading then.
  15. i would be more worried as to why the engine is running so hot. flush the coolant with rad flush, jet wash the radiator (be carefull you dont damage it) to remove any mud and dirt, change the thermostat, then refill the coolant and run up to temp to see if its any different. as said watch for air locks. the water pump spins clockwise
  16. It's also possible to disconnect the glowplug from the ignition and have them operated by a spring loaded button, that's assuming it's awkward to hold the glowplug on the ignition without unwanted cranking of the engine
  17. What vehicle, 300, td5, d3??
  18. look on the bright side, at least the chassis flex would of given a comfy, if very peculiar/scary ride!!!
  19. As the thread suggests, will D2 doors fit onto a D1 300tdi?? Am already prepared for a resounding NO but just thought i would ask. thanking you in advance.
  20. possible HG failure and coolant and oil mixing?? though i hope for you sake its not this!! check under oil filler cap for any mayonaise like substance, also check for bubbles in the coolant with the engine running
  21. aftermarket gaskets are never as good quality as genuine ones, it does sound like the last repair was done as cheaply as possible, never a good idea with the K series. and 36 quid for a full gasket kit including head bolts??? i would be paying that for the head bolts alone
  22. hi mark, If i am remembering correctly the MLS, if this is what your going to use, is 0.2mm thicker than the old single layer that was on before, so this would make up the extra being taken off a skim.
  23. Hi Mark. first i must apologise, i misread your post regarding the leakdown test, as there were no plugs and the pistons were stationary then obviously there was no compression. If the HG has been done before, then I really am of the opinion the head is cracked, what is the year of the car, as you say there are metal dowls, cars before 2000 had plastic dowls, and these were generally replaced for metal ones if the head was already done. as regards to the head gasket itself, i would be using a multi layer gasket rather than a single layer, it is now recommended to use the MLS on the elise and exige as well as the freelander the heads on the K series are extremly frigile and 75% of the time if the hg fails then it will crack the head, not saying this is always the case but it is extremely common for this to happen. i would be getting the head pressure tested before the skim, but if i was a betting man that is where i would be putting my money. if the head comes back clear of cracks, then obviously you will hae it skimmed, depending on how much they take is off is dependent on whether you need the valve seats reground. hope this helps Dave
  24. did you get the head pressure tested for cracks? when the HG goes you cant allways tell just by looking at it, so dont fully rule this out. leakage across the cylinders.......... if it was leaking into the 1 next to it, eg:-1 leaking into 2 and so on, i would question a possible cracked block if the head comes back pressure tested ok, but if its leaking into the 1 next to it then it has to be between the head and block, the reason its jumping a cylinder is as it leaks out the compression/engine cycle keeps it out of the next door cylinder and heads to the next 1. rubbish desription sorry, but i hope you get what i mean. is there any way you can get hold of a spare head, and put it on just to do the tests again?? i know you are trying to do this repair as cheaply as possible, but the K series really does need repairing properly to reduce the chance of further failure.
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