Stonehead1

If we could afford to run two vehicles, I'd have a SWB IIA pick-up with the 2.25 diesel and a canopy over the load bed. Preferably in bronze green and as original as I could get it. I learned to drive in IIAs. My favourite Land Rover. And proper ones! I'm also fond of 200 TDis. But the TD5 makes all the tasks I set it seem effortless, so it's actually comfortable for day-to-day use as a crofter's truck and family transport. Although it's bloody weird being able to have a conversation with the Other Half when driving and hearing the boys chime in with "are we there yet?" I'll let you decide if that's good or bad...

I kept coming back to the wheel balancing. Aside from having the alignment checked, it was the only job I'd not done myself. The wheels were balanced by a fairly large and reputable company that do 4x4s, 4x4 trucks (Unimogs and the like) and tractors as well as cars. We've used them before and they're usually good. But I kept thinking, "but I didn't do it myself so how can I be certain?". So, I took the TD5 to a small tyrefitters and asked them to check the wheel balances. The rears were fine but both front wheels were out of balance, with the right being particularly bad. The fitter removed the new weights the big outfit had put on, then checked the wheels again. They were better unbalanced! He then fitted new, smaller weights to correctly balance both wheels. With them back on the TD5, we went out for a test drive and the truck was smooth as silk. Of course, the big outfit dispute that their work was at fault and I won't be going back to them again. So, if you have a niggle, pay attention to it. As for the TD5, with new shocks all round, new bushes all round, a new steering damper, recent swivels and bearings, correct wheel alignment, and properly balanced wheels, it's sweet. The only problem is that my Other Half has taken off in it for a week's holiday with the children—while I make do with a pushbike! :rolleyes: Anyway, thanks for the help.

Yes. All bushes replaced.

I have a 2002 Defender TD5 Dual Cab pickup. Recently, it developed a nasty and prolonged juddering around 50mph (48-52), to the point that it was very difficult to steer. I already had new bushes, shocks and steering damper on order, so I fitted them to see if they would correct the problem. The juddering was noticeably less, but still there. Next, I had the wheels balanced again. (They were balanced a few months back when new tyres were fitted, but I thought it best to double-check). Still a judder. Next, I had the wheel alignment checked. Okay. Next, I checked the swivels and bearings. Not only were they fine, but they'd clearly been done fairly recently. (I've had the TD5 for a few months). I've worked my way down through the steering, and there's no sign of excess play in UJs, slack balljoints, loose bolts etc. So, what next? PS After years of 300 TDis, 200 TDis, Turbo Diesels, 2.25 and 2.0 diesels, I now find myself driving what feels like a sports car. I had 600kg of barley in the back the other day plus 2 tonnes of livestock trailer loaded with pigs—and the TD5 still did 50mph uphill. Even better, I was able to listen to the radio! I could get used to this...

My 110 TD5 Dual Cab has a set of Trac Edges. They've done 85k miles on three different Defenders, but will have to be replaced soon as they're down to 4mm tread. They're still okay on the road but are starting to struggle in muddy, cultivated fields. I've found them good on dry roads, acceptable on wet, good in the mud, and very good in snow and on nice. I'm a crofter so my Defenders have all worked hard in all sorts of conditions, carrying and towing heavy loads. With the Trac Edges on, I've hauled a livestock trailer with 20 sheep on board up a steep, winding hill road that had knee-deep snow over ice. Not a slip or a slither the whole way up. I've also hauled 500-750kg loads of field stone across ploughed fields. Yes, M/Ts have the edge in deep, claggy mud and A/Ts have the edge on wet roads, but as a long-lasting, genuine all-rounder the Trac Edges were the best for my purposes. The Insa versions will hopefully have much, if not all, of the traction of the Trac Edges, but I seriously doubt if they can match the longevity. My second favourite was the BFG Commercial T/A Traction, but again that's no longer available. It was almost as long-lived as the Trac Edge, equally good on snow and ice and better on the road. But it wasn't as good in the mud. Now, I'm trying to decide what to go for next. I know someone with Cooper Discoverer S/Ts and they seem fairly good.

Thanks. I knew the 03's onwards had alarm and immobiliser, but wasn't sure about years prior. Much appreciated.

We're very rural, but are plagued by thefts. We've had one attempt to steal our 110 200TDi CSW, while someone nearby had the doors stolen from his. And we've had quite a few non-car related incidents, too, with 1,000 litres of heating stolen a few weeks back. I'm also on the age-challenged side, somewhere in the regions above 40... I have full no-claims, too, but we still find it cheaper to put the OH down as the keeper and me as the second driver. Of course, the downside is that if she got rid of me, then she'd get to keep the Defender! And she would, because she thinks they're the mutt's nuts and won't drive anything else. Sigh. Guess I'll have to behave. Back on topic, two insurers told us pick-ups have a higher premium than CSWs as they're more likely to be accident damaged.

Less than £40 a month? That's the cheapest we've found so far. The main issue is that it's an LRSV job with lots of flash parts: air-con, electric windows, Ifor Williams canopy, bullbar and driving lights, rear light protectors, adjustable towbar, chequer plate, top-spec Exmoor seats front and back, Exmoor cubby box,CD/MP3 player, uprated speakers, etc etc. It's even got stainless steel bolts in the door hinges—and all done when built. The only thing the paperwork doesn't cover is the immobiliser. It's not a County (those Exmoor seats are vinyl and it has rubber mats), but it was somebody's ultimate work truck. Plenty of insurers will cover it without quibbling over the parts, but they do want to make sure they get their money's worth for all those expensive bits of bling.

Our inurance company has said it will only cover a TD5 if it has a Thatcham 3 immobiliser fitted. Were these standard for the 2002 MY, an option, or would one be an after-market fit? I need to know the likely source so I can get "proof" that it has a suitable immobiliser fitted. To complicate matters, the Defender is a LRSV job with loads of different parts and accessories over standard.

Thanks for all that. Dunc, the only problem with your suggestion was that after working my way down the page I discovered I'd have a bill approaching £1,000 - before I got to the driver's door!!! Too many tempting bits...

I was thinking along similar lines. Bearmach have a removeable front tow hitch (page 32 of their catalogue, BA3107) that hooks over the front bumper and is secured with a couple of wing nuts.

I've looked at quite a few second-hand doors - most have been rubbish. I don't see much buy in paying out good money for a door with a frame that needs to be repaired and a skin that's badly corroded. The few good ones have been around the £150 mark, which is not much less than the cheapest new ones. Actually, scrapyards tell me doors are among the first things to go when they get a scrap Defender in. Now there's a surprise! I've been keeping an eye on eblag, but doors tend to be collection only (even when I offer to arrange collection with a courier) and I live in NE Scotland.Of course, it can also be difficult to gauge condition. A pair of new doors (driver's and passengers) did appear on eblag a fortnight ago, but they didn't meet the reserve plus they were pickup only. They would have fitted the bill nicely! Craddock had a pair of complete doors as well, which went for £105 but they were well rotted at the bottom of the frame and if I was going to repair them, I might as well repair mine! The skins didn't look to bad, though. I'd prefer to get solid used doors or new ones, then fill them with waxoyl as I intend keeping this Defender for a good few years. One solution might be to buy frames and skins separately. A friend did this, had the frames galvanised and then put rubber padding between the contact surfaces to prevent the steel and aluminium coming in contact.

I opened the driver's door this afternoon and a fairly large chunk of door frame dropped at my feet. I was planning on replacing the door as both the skin and frame were on their way out, but had intended to wait until after Christmas. It looks like the job is now rather more urgent... Anyway, having had a look around I've found that new, replacement doors (sans glazing and fittings) range from £185 to £300 or so (ex VAT). My question is, is there much difference in quality between the "cheaper" ones and the more expensive ones?

That all looks a bit complicated. I wear a Petzl Tac Tikka head torch when checking the pigs, then hop in the Defender and flip the red filter into place to get night vision friendly interior light. Even better, it's waterproof for when the sunroof leaks...

Back in 93, when I worked on motoring magazines, I remember a colleague finding a new, unregistered '81 SIII 109 V8 CSW while mystery shopping a dealer. I don't know what became of it, but if bought at the time it would have been on a 93K! We also ran a few stories about huge stockpiles of new, unregistered cars that were parked on disused airfields around the country as there were no buyers for them. Some of the cars, of all makes and models, had been there for years.