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auf_wiedersehen_pet

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Posts posted by auf_wiedersehen_pet

  1. Just realised that there is some sort of inbuilt filter which changes words like carp into something less rude such as "ploppy plop plops".

    carp. carp. carp.

    carp. carp. carp.

    carp. carp. carp.

    carp. carp. carp.

    carp. carp. carp.

    carp. carp. carp.

  2. Lad on Landyzone has done it and it is stonking, he estimates 6k for the conversion to a new 2.8 TGV

    That'll be me then. :D:D:D

    Mine wasn't the conversion it was the full 2.8 TGV fitted.

    If you go on LZ in the disco section there is a build thread, in fact here's a link :)

    http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/auf_wiedersehen_pets-build-thread-206921.html

    This guy fitted/had fitted a new 2.8 TGV, could be a good read.

    Cheers :)

    Thanks for linking Sam.

    On local evidence the 2.8 TGV is not kind to drivetrains - nor are any other big diesels from what I've seen. Four huge thwacks of torque per cycle rattles down the drivetrain and seems to be much more destructive than eight smaller lumps adding up to the same amount. I know a few people who have or had big diesels in LR's and they seem to get through a lot of drivetrain compared to the rest of the club. Like I say, it's purely my impression from my circle of LR mates over the years.

    VNT means you don't have to spin the turbo up / make more revs to produce power. Your drivetrain may not thank you for that though, as it means you can slug away at low RPM when you'd normally drop a gear and give it some revs.

    It is manuals which the TGV destroys. The only problem with my auto is the small torque converter loses some of the power/torque.

    I doubt you will see much difference in economy between a VVT and a normal one - if anything it should be an improvement in favour of the VVT for the reasons that dieseldog suggested.

    There won't be any extra load on the engine due to the VVT.

    My fuel economy is carp either way. You don't fit a 2.8 TGV and a full width intercooler then drive it like a vicar!

    okay so far so good discussion wise, now, when we go on one of our trips into the "bush" (in our case desert) the tracks we encounter are in some instances so wild, disused and corrugated and rutted that they are good for only 20 - 30 kilometers per hour - max !! so ---- for example our trip from Coober Pedy to Ilulinka in November of this year this section along the Anne Bidell track will take 4-5 days to cover the 720 k's.

    Now my 300Tdi is connected to a Ashton ZF4HP22 / 24 gearbox with one of their "stage 2" torque converters - trust me strain that the additional 300 cc's might produce on the transmission is not a concern, the additional torque from the 2.8 will be taken up with a stronger flex plate, so back to the original point that I really disnt explain too well, at 25kph in high range my engine is running at under 1000 rpm so even with a variable turbo there would be little to no boost. In deep sand I switch to low range, the revs go up to 1800rpm but ths ground speed stays around 25kph.

    Future plans are an Ashcroft upgrade with bigger torque converter. Pulls like a train everywhere. It's very difficult to know when the turbo kicks in as it just grunts from 800rpm upwards. Pulls much better than my old 3.5 and 3.9 RRCs. Catches out lots of knobs at traffic lights. :hysterical::hysterical::hysterical:

  3. It's ok I had a go this weekend and got one on.I've had to put them on alot lower than yours tho ??? Even now you can just see the edge of the inner arch. If I'd put them on like yours I'd have had the inner arch just hanging there and the mounting point for the wing on the mudflap bracket would have been cut out and the wing would br flapping about. Be nice to see how they have got around that on yours before I start the other side. If I can see what they have done on yours I can always raise them. Better to take not enough than too much off !! :)

    http://s244.photobucket.com/albums/gg26/auf_wiedersehen_pet/

    The inner edge is still visible on mine. Some people have cut it much deeper, following the line of the new arches which looks weird when the door is open. I cut mine so it would look good with the door open. The mudflap bracket will disappear, I made a replacement which needs the corner chopping and bracing as the new arch sits with a little bump. Holding my new 50mms up against a 75mm hole - I need to take more off!.

    Shout if you need more.

  4. Just had a thought. There's a walk around of my truck on you tube. Posted to show a mate how far i'd got with the build. Type Pumbaa, ( the name of the truck :) ), by barriesheene and it may give you an idea on the arches.

    You are a superstar, thank you very much. :D :D :D :D

    I'll get the photos for you as soon as I get some free time in daylight - probably next weekend. If I forget (highly likely) please, please, please email me on steeleseries1@gmail.com which will flash up on my phome straight away.

    I bumped into your YouTube clip via your recent bullbar question - my money is on without BTW.

    Have you thought about an A Bar/Winch Bumper combination. Mines a Devon 4x4 and chopped Defender A Bar welded on. All my own work! :i-m_so_happy:

    P1010167.jpg

  5. Can't help you with your question but what are you doing with your spacers?

    This.... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160784637634?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 :)

    I've had similar problems with flatdog. After sales just dont want to know. I fitted the fronts 6 months ago but wanted clarification on how to fit the rears, ( 5 door ) x3 emails, no reply. Got through on the phone twice and was told the workshop would get in touch regards the rears. Not a dicky bird :angry2: . I've got 50mm arches. I can measure the distance between the screw holes if its any help ? Fronts are on the car, rears are still sat in the garage. They can be moulded slightly but it should give you a good idea.

    Thanks for the offer. the distance between the screw holes would be lovely. Could you also measure the distance between the front point and the rear point where the arrows are on the photo. I'll be happy to take any photo you need of the rears, including with the arches off. Just let me know. I did mine 18 months ago. They were purchased new from a guy who'd bought them a week before, opened the box and given up!!

    Arches.jpg

  6. Does anybody know if the 75mm 5 Door Arches can be removed and replaced with the 50mm 5 Door Arches as a straight swap? Is the footprint and screw hole spacing the same?

    I've removed my 35mm spacers and want to reduce the wheel arches by a similar amount.

    I've tried emailing Flatdog three times - waited two weeks for a reply. Phone constantly engaged. They do seem to be a "triffle tardy" in communicating with customers. anybody would think I want to get a free set but I don't - I want to pay £140 for a set. :angry2:

    If I can get a definate "Yes" they will fit then I'll buy a set via the internet to avoid wasting my time!!

  7. Yesterday I fitted my Terrafirma steering damper.

    Today, on a fourteen mile round trip, the Disco wobbled over every bump and cat's eye including one particularly "interesting" moment when I clipped a cat's eye exiting downhill on a M-way slip road. It took one hundred yards, both lanes of the slip road and 30 years driving experience to get it back under control. At its worse, the steering wheel was bouncing 45 degrees in each direction.

    I've just refitted the rusty 17 year old LR damper with rock hard bushes and it drives like a dream again!!

    FYI 315/70/17 BFG ATs (six moths old) on Predator Alloys with 30mm spacers.

  8. I just cut the middle box out & replaced it with a galvanised flexi pipe for £50...dead easy to do.

    Don't touch galvo flexi pipe. It will last six months before it breaks. I purchased a long length - cut into three pieces - gone in 18 months!!

  9. Hi All,

    I've just picked up my Discovery from the garage having had a new starter.

    As soon as I started to drive it something didn't feel right. At car park speeds (1,000 rpm) it felt "stuttery" as if the revs were on/off/on erratically. On the road, it pulls and runs fine apart from the 1,000rpm mark (typically 20+ mph, whiff of throttle to keep it moving in traffic) when it feels like a misfire/stutter/hunt.

    Any ideas?

    I have a good relationship with the garage so there are no worries about going back to them - I just can't see how a new starter could affect anything. Is there anything which could have been knocked or disconnected?

    Regards

    Rob

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