auf_wiedersehen_pet

I got mine off ebay - £50. Had to fabricate a new mounting bracket as my tyres are wider (265) than standard. Here's mine..... http://s244.photobucket.com/albums/gg26/auf_wiedersehen_pet/Rear%20Wheel%20Holder/ Ebay http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LAND-ROVER-DISCOVERY-2-CYCLE-CARRIER-BIKE-RACK-99-04-/280496443705?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM

I'm thinking of getting a winch for my Disco. It would be used for recovery/self recovery but definately not Challenges! If the last year is typical - it would have been used five times. Something like this..... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310227659616&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT Question? The front of my Disco is a little "busy" with a Defender A bar, spotlights, Saudi grille, LED driving lights and a D44 winch bumper. Would I need to cut the coloured grille surround or mesh to gain access to the lever? Any other thoughts?

Lost all of my dashboard lights but gained my check engine light . I am going to Sonisphere on saturday and on holiday on sunday. Where do I start? 300tdi

I do like a good dollop of vaseline Coated the connection when I re did it - and my battery terminals too.

Well - after 10 days it's perfect. Many, many thanks to everyone and in particular to MrKev and Pinny.

I note by your details that you are in Malta. IMHO most of the corrosion is caused/promoted by road salt so any Disco you get might be good. Otherwise I'd check, Boot floor Rear cross member Rear wheel arches and seat belt mounts Sills Inner wings Headlamp boxes Anybody else care to add to the list? My Disco is an ex Jap market with very very little corrosion - I'd recommend that route to anyone.

Stripped down the earth connector this morning - taken it back to bare metal again. Cleaned the terminals, etc. Seems okay so far but the old fault sometimes took days before it happened. Fingers crossed.

Sounds like the battery earth is the next place to check then. Thanks for the replies again.

The voltmeter is earthed to the passenger seat base. The int aux fuse box is connected directly to the 2nd battery using (60 amp cable) via a 40 amp fuse. No. The int aux fuse box is connected directly to the 2nd battery using (60 amp cable) via a 40 amp fuse. The split charge relay sits between the two batteries and "switches" with the ignition. The same thing has happened on two previous different batteries which I had knocking about. I thought they were both tired, hence the purchase of the new battery. http://www.tayna.co.uk/Numax-CXV-X-1000-Amp-P7632.html Thanks for all of the help so far.

Hi Chris, The voltmeter takes its feed from the internal auxilliary fuse box. It's not a problem with the voltmeter as the feed into the aux fuse box drops aswell. I've checked every thing with a digital multimeter. When it "dropped" this morning the feed into the int aux fuse box read 1.14v (the voltmeter was off the bottom of its 8v minimum) but the battery was 12.74v. Both gauges are analogue and I can confirm they are functioning and accurate with multimeter readings. Still confused?

This one has had had me stumped for ages.............. I've got a twin battery set up with a split charge similar to this http://www.wizardbilt.com/Split%20charge%20circuit.htm The charging works fine. The 2nd battery is new (2 months) as is the 1st battery (4 months). Both batteries have gauges to show voltage. The 2nd battery feeds an amp, an internal auxilliary fuse box and an engine bay auxilliary fuse box. The problem is, when the engine is switched off (and the link between the two batteries is broken) the 2nd battery will either, (A) Remain at a decent voltage 12-13v indefinately. (B) Drop instantly to less than 1v. When checked the battery is still 12-13v but the feed into the interior auxilliary fuse box is less than 1v. © Drop instantly for an unspecified period of time and the rise to 12-13v, then drop, etc. Any suggestions before I rip it all out and rewire it.

I love that - it happens to me all the time. I'm sorry to hear about the aggro with the two doors. Hopefully, this won't cause me much grief as it's just the glass I'm looking to swap.

Hi plasticbadger. Yes, my clumsy English was trying to describe the rear door. Thanks for the quick reply.

As the title really? Can they be swapped?

I'm after a set of Discovery 300Tdi ABS +4" Stainless Brake Pipes. I can find loads with zinc plated fittings but I want full stainless. Any suggestions for suppliers?

It's a pair like this.......... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Land-Rover-Discovery-TD5-Headlight-leveling-motor_W0QQitemZ270485515822QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item3efa316e2e

Sorted! Many thanks. Page 129 on. http://fuddymuckers.co.uk/files/lr4x4/HFH%20Stuff/2008%20IVS%20-%20DRAFT%20-%20Replaces%20SVA.pdf

I got my motors off ebay for £5. Took 15 mins to fit.

They are a factory thing which very rarely turns up on ebay for £30 or so.

Anybody know of their whereabouts - all I can find is legal jargon.

Many thanks.

I'm selling one and I've been asked if it will fit a TD5 D2. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=160328157967 Anybody know?

I'm not an expert but I have read numerous threads about vibrations where the owners say they have checked the UJs which seem fine, only to report back a few weeks later saying it was the UJs. Never rule them out until they have been changed. HTH

Ouch. IIRC, on a standard car, the original and the DC props should be the same. When I bought mine, I had to take lots of measurements so the correct length could be worked out.

Mine's black on dark red. I wanted a subtle look as I recently fitted black alloys. I mocked one up on a D1 - couldn't find the right font though. I think far too many stickers are put on without any thought. If you want subtle - go for black. If you want garish - go for red, yellow, blue, etc. Your call!