Monster

Hi, Nice install. Whereabouts did you get the intercooler? Depending on price maybe worth adding to our tdi LR. Much better than having both outlets at one end than one at each end which is most that I have seen. Was the Di nice to drive? Was thinking of putting a 2.5 NAD in our Series (another LR!) but may look into fitting a Di as it would make it easier for spares with similar spec engines and flog the NAD! Cheers.

Found this on the net regarding discovery servo and defender mc on to a series. http://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/braking-sorted/ I have checked and the servo/mc on the disco 300tdi that i plan to use. It has two pipe outputs so i may not need to use the defender mc after all? I was also thinking of replacing the 'safety' valve on my early 110 setup with the discovery balance valve. Be interested what others have tried.

Would the plain water have rusted up the insides of the cooling system? I imagine the water was quite brown when you drained it?

I recently changed the timing belt on my discovery 200tdi engined landy prior to taking it off the road. (For other reasons than engine related). It a discovery engine but assume the setup principle is the same for defender. I may have not timed it correctly. It starts easily, runs and is abit smokey but gets abit warmer than before. I did have the radiator off for a while as i had a problem getting off the crankshaft gear. Despite this i think i may have set the pump off a abit. I didn’t move diesel pump pulley adjustment when fitting the new belt and the pin was a bit tight when was removed. (This was my first timing belt change). Could i make the necessary movement via the front inspection cover as i am sure the other gears are lined up correctly? Or should i just bite the bullet and remove the complete front cover and retime properly?

Red 90. Can you tell me more about the Disco double diaphragm upgrade? I have a 300tdi disco that I could 'borrow' the servo from. Will the 110 master cylinder bolt straight on or will I need to keep the Disco M/C?

Edit: Couldnt quote Orgasmic Farmer ref: Prototype Bearmach Servo for some reason! This sound very interesting. Was this to fit a 3 pipe master cylinder? We have a 2 pipe MC on our 110 and 90 but the 90 has a servo with a larger circumference. Is the larger servo for better braking?

Interesting.... The ebay page suggests the beam can be adjusted. Flood or spot or combo. Is this the case? Is this white light or 'warm' ? Do you have yours fitted to the roof? Definitely something worth considering!

Link?

I have the Flaremaster 2. I would love to have the vice mounted Sykes Pickavant but couldn't justify the cost. I am using Knifier pipe for my project and seems to work ok. I get mixed results due to the harder metal but it probably is also my skill as the flare gets better as I use it more. Hopefully they will seal as I haven't hooked it up yet. Worked great on Copper on another project though, possibly due to the softer metal.

Great thread. Very timely. Is this the Patrols style you guys are talking about? I have access to a Nissan Patrol. 4litre petrol auto. Would this be a suitable donor for axles? Any ideas on what type the auto box is? I know in the US they do a lot of conversion and was thinking it could be a better match for a big diesel more than Rovers own 3/4 speed auto. Maybe able to source a conversion plate. Some Japanese makes use a swivel ball that is welded onto axle tube, unlike the bolt on version of Rovers. Anybody had issues with this? Cheers.

I am in the process of replacing the brake pipes on our early 110. Is there any way to make the front brake junction smoother? The left hand feed needs a tight bend down and then up, before going forward down the chassis. See pic. Does the brake input need to have to be in the centre of the T union before its splits left and right? Would it matter if the input came from the side of the T? This was i can feed the left wheel from the centre of the T union and the right can then be connected to other outlet as in other pic, to make the brake pipe bends easier. Would there be an issue in doing this, would this cause a bias issue between wheels? Maybe I could T off earlier and then route around the bulkhead and run up the left chassis as an alternative, but not sure if i want to stray to far from standard setup. What are your thoughts?

Has anyone mixed Hammerite paint together? I was looking to paint some of my accessories with a similar colour to the Dark Land Rover Green, to match my LR bodywork. Hammerite do a dark green but it is still a bit bright so was thinking I would try adding in some black to try and match it. Anyone tried this. I know I could get some dark green paint but have some of this in the shed and hopefully get some added protection.

Order placed. Tried calling but just got answerphone. Pmd.

Will try to get my order in today. Thanks.

Anyone know where i can get an XCESS Clutch Release Bearing from, or an alternative.? Their webshop is temporarily suspended. The beauty about this unit is that it is CNC machined from Solid Steel Billet rather than the plastic (stock) or aluminuim (HD) versions available in most places. Alternatively does anyone have one they can sell me? Thanks

Will an early discovery front axle fit on my N/A 110? It has the enclosed stub axle shafts like that of the range rover. If the axle will fit, can I swap out the stub axle shafts for something that looks like a defender drive shaft? (I have matching radius arms). The reason being as the discovery has nice tidy swivel balls whilst the 110 axle balls have pits and corrosion on them.

Is a plastic tank from a discovery the same as the defender 300, in the same way that a metal tank from a range rover fits the early 110? I know the discovery has a different guard to the 110, but was wondering if the actual tank was the same. I have the chance of a donor discovery tank and I need one for my 110.

What year is your defender guys? Do they have blade fuses? If not and have the old glass type, it may be worth upgrading to blade type. Headlights require alot of current and sometime a poor connection on the fuse is all that is needed to cause problems.

I am rebuilding a 110 from a project that got abandoned. It was was originally a 2.5NA but I hope to fit a tdi. I am currently installing the brake system and am looking to fit all new components that require seals. Master Cylinder (M/C), rear brake cylinders, new front calliper's (vented). The original system is a basic two pipe M/C with a T in front to share for front callipers. What I am wondering if it is worth upgrading to a later design of say the 300 or Td5 style. The 300 has a 3 pipe MC with one going to each. ie 1 left, 1 right, 1 rear. Is there any advantage going to a later system? (I plan to keep drums on the rear with a view to fit discs some time later). I probably will need another servo to go with the later M/C which is a bit more expensive, but if after all this, would there be any improvement? Or must I keep the system that was designed with the year of vehicle. Thanks.

I'll have the discovery drop arm if you dont want it!

As you probably seen from an earlier post, I am looking to replace the chassis on our 110 N/A diesel. I have come across a repairable Td5 one and plan to fit that. I realise that the engine mounts will probably need to be removed but just remembered reading somewhere that the transferbox is in a different place in different versions of engines. Is the Td5 transferbox in a different position to that of the N/A diesel? Would there be any advantage in keeping the Td5 position? I assume I would need to get different props to that of what I already have. If I decided to go back to the N/A position if different, would I also need to change the Td5 crossmember? Also I was planning to use the original rear tank. Could this be fitted to the Td5 chassis fairly easily? Are they any other differences that I have missed?

I have been looking at a Range Rover chassis year 80 - 90 I think. It has a good front crossmember. Could this be grafted on to the 110 chassis? I thought i read somewhere that the RR and defender chassis are made differently. (The 110 is a TD5 chassis). Would i need to modify the RR front to accept a 110 bumper? I am not concerned by the jack points. I normally lift by the axle anyway. I can easily add the misc small brackets quite easily. How best to join them together? Butt each end and then add strengthing sheets down the side? Thanks.

Pic didnt upload for some reason. Manual doesnt give an diagonal measurements as far as i can see. It might be a parellelagram! Thanks for the input guys. Thinking about it, i have a spare RR gearbox crossmember. Maybe i will weld that in place!

Hi Guys, I have a 110 chassis that i hope to use for my build. It is in great shape except..... There is a dent in the front crossmember where it was driven into a post! I was hoping to cut it off and fit a front crossmember on it, but seems no one makes any!? Despite the dent, which is slightly to the side of middle, everything from the front spring mounts back, seem fine. The dumb irons have started to look inwards which is understandable. Welding up the chassis shouldnt be a problem but was wondering what your thoughts are on how to proceed. (I cant afford a new chassis). Could a series crossmember be grafted on it? These seem readily available. Or do i remove the bent crossmember and fabricate a new one. Altimately, do you think this chassis is saveable? How can i check alignment? Any thoughts or pointers would be great. Cheers.

Hi Guys, Although for a D1, i thought i would ask here as the Transfer box i am working on is a Defender original. I bought a 'good' used 1.4 box some time ago for a project but didnt get around to using it. Now i would like to put it on the back of my disco gearbox as i plan to fit some larger than std tyres. Much to my annoyance, i found that the box doesnt have an input gear!! Not sure if i bought it without one but cant remember. How do i find out what one goes in there? There seems to be around 3 different types. 26T, cross drilled 26T, 28T I have the current 1.22 and 2 other boxs(1.22 & 1.192) at my disposal. Could the input gear out of any of them will fit the 1.4 box? From what i have read, the box no: doesnt really give any indication of what fits. Any help, 'input' would be great.