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vulcan bomber

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vulcan bomber last won the day on November 19 2016

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About vulcan bomber

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    Old Hand

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  • Location
    Lutterworth, Leics

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    Land Rovers, airplanes, beer.

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  1. I bought a Teng one for work about 10 years ago, don't know if it's suitable for you but the quality is excellent. We have to empty half of it out and then 2 guys struggle to carry it when we have to move it. So it's certainly strong enough.
  2. I would be open to a reasonable offer for it when ive finished with it.
  3. The cow on the line with the cooler take off on the stumpy 380 is the seat box has to be adjusted to allow the adapter and pipes to fit... I have a housing with a thermostat here Richard, and yes, it's another project on my growing list to make something so I don't have to cut my seatbox on my 110.
  4. I has similar on my 200TDi, it was one of the bolts holding the alternator together come lose and riggled its way out and into the fan.
  5. Aren't con rods normally forged any way?
  6. Me and Richard were discussing this yesterday, it is certainly an option to cut it and weld it. However, I don't know how well the Ali would weld with it being cast, hopefully someone in the know will see this and give you an answer. I doubt there is enough wall thickness there to bolt it back together. My current plan is to make a sump that will extend to the front of the overdrive and also backwards under the crossmember to get the capacity. I'm just waiting to find out what standard material sizes I can get to make it from. I don't know if you'd be able to move the sump you have at the minute on and use one of mine, which is another option.
  7. Ralph, I have been drawing all the bits up on CAD for the Overdrive over the last few days. Soon I should be able to supply a set of Gaskets for sensable money, a sump that fits. And I can certainly make you a spacer up to make yours fit.
  8. That is an interesting development Ralph. And something I had not thought of. I've spent some of this weekend doing some design work on the sump i plan to make. Looks like I'm heading back to the drawing board.
  9. The lathes I work and the one i own are lubed little and often, if its a busy day then they see the oil can twice a day, but with only a small squirt. Check your manual, there will be places you need to point the oil can, and yes, pump it through until its clean. then clean it all off and then apply a light amount.
  10. You need a 3/32 Allen key for the grub screw, there imperial.
  11. Delrin/acetal is certainly one of the nicer plastics out there to machine. Plastic as a general will machine with carbide inserts as long as your not trying to do something thin where it will just deflect out of shape. You will do much better with positive rake inserts however. If your machining plastic in the future avoid the glass filled stuff at all cost.
  12. Delrin is a trade name for acetal.
  13. Wards in Rugby if your close enough.
  14. I've worked in an environment (and Ejparrott still does) where there's machines that can carry bits of metal over 1 meter diameter and 5 meters in length.... And we would be upset to not hold dimensions within 0.05mm.
  15. Tool grinding with HSS does take practice, if you have a look on YouTube there are some good videos to get you started. As for RPM, that depends what diameter your cutting... However to give you an idea, our biggest lathe at work (which is a baby in the grand scheme of things but very powerful for its size) uses a 42mm insert drill regularly, it goes through mild steel at 1850RPM... The only reason we can't go faster is coolant pressure. You need to learn about cutting speeds, the formula is: (Cutting speed X 1000) / (3.14xR) So if you had a piece of mild steel 100mm diameter you were finish turning at 325 meters a minute your RPM would work out to 637RPM. Good quality inserts will have starting points for feeds and speeds on the box. Do note that you will need different grades for each material you want to cut, general purpose inserts are garbage.
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