db950

I bought a few bits off them for my 1989 110 restoration, very reasonable prices!! I also spent a lot of money on parts shared between Paddocks,L R Direct and Britcar and after completion I needed something urgent so went to my local dealer (Duckworths) and found them actually pretty good on price! Could of saved a lot on shipping charges!

No probs, sorry I didn't post earlier!!!

If your after some genuine rears give Keith Gott a bell he has some RKB101111 listed as new take offs for only £47.40 inc per pair. I bought some off him a year ago and some fronts, very helpful staff. http://www.keithgott.co.uk/parts_new_take_offs.html

As already said, the 130 does not have a hi cap body but a shorter pick up bed. If you want double cab and hi cap body then you will have to stretch it to nearly 150" A friend has already done it and it looks a beast! Turning circle of a battleship though!

Hi Mike Don't bother tracing the wires in the looms. If I've understood you correctly you have modified the dash/clocks wiring as per retroanaconda's guide, if this is right then run a wire direct from the back of the dash (green/blue wire) straight to the temp sender on the engine. In the td5 loom the temp signal goes via the ecu under the seat but no need to use these wires.

I fitted the tubular ones from paddocks on my rebuild but you will also need the heavy duty turret rings as the bolts aren't long enough on the standard rings.

Seems like cellulose may be your best bet as corrections can done after last coat. As I said previously I don't get on with as I can not get a good enough gloss on it by just leaving it after the last coat. I restore alot of vintage tractors and flatting the framework/chassis back after spraying is not an option, far to many nooks and crannies!! This is why I go for synthetic as if done right you get a perfect gloss finish without any extra work. I joined this forum as I have bought a 1989 110sw and doing a full restoration on, just got chassis back from galvanisers and busy fitting the refurb axles now. I will be painting it in 2k though as using metallic base coat and lacquer. Hope you get on okay Regards

Synthetic and cellulose are solvent based and acrylic is water based. Personally I have never got on with cellulose and achieved much better finish with synthetic paint. It does take a while to fully cure, that is why I add a bit of 2k hardner so you can handle it quicker.

Your paint supplier should'nt supply you the 2 pack unless they know you have correct facilities to spray them ( air flow masks, filtration systems to stop it getting outside) stick to 1 pack it isn't as durable but you can get a good gloss with it but of course it won't take lacquer on top which doesn't help with the durability I use a 3m mask (06941) for spraying 1k

Hi, the etch primer is only needed on bare Ali. Where there is still solid paint just key it and use normal primer. Presume you will be using 1K paint (single pack) buy the best you can afford this will make all the difference, warm the paint to make it thinner the less thinners you have to add to get it to flow the better ( max 10-15% thinners) although you need to get the paint thin enough to make sure it atomises or you will get a nice orange peel effect! I add some 2k fast hardner to the 1k paint I use to make it go off quicker ( max10%) 1k synthetic dries more with airflow over it rather than heat so don't need to heat the makeshift booth to ridiculous temp. Don't get to hung up on the best spray gun you can afford, better to spend the money on better paint, just make sure the nozzle is the right size for the job. One for around £50 should be fine, I've got a kestrel one with 1.7mm nozzle for 1k and devilbliss with 1.4mm nozzle for 2k You may to get some 1200 wet and dry in as well incase you have to sand the top coat once dry to spray again! Good luck and be patient!