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Everything posted by ThreeSheds

  1. ThreeSheds

    Random musings on the D4

    I occasionally have thoughts about the D4 and think 'I should post that...' but it always seems that when I get to the computer, it's too trivial to warrant a new thread. So I thought I would start a thread for all those trivial things and here it is...
  2. ThreeSheds

    Random musings on the D4

    It's an easy car to drive fast (well faster than you should, anyway)
  3. ThreeSheds

    Random musings on the D4

    Fuel consumption testing... Two checks from tank full to tank full, 340 miles and 268 miles of mixed commuting and country driving (FYI my commute is mainly 60mph roads)... Calculated values about 26mpg, when the instruments 'average mpg' value is about 28mpg.
  4. ThreeSheds

    Welding a water pipe

    Thanks, but it's done now...
  5. ThreeSheds

    Welding a water pipe

    While doing some work on the TD5 Disco the other day I accidentally caught the steel coolant pipe that runs behind the rad-stack with a grinder and put a little groove in it. It's not right through but I think that with temperature cycling and vibrations it would not be a good idea to leave it since it would almost certainly crack. Since that pipe is expensive and looks like a bit of a pain to fit I was thinking of mig welding it in situ. I have drained that coolant, but there may still be a small amount of it behind where I would be welding. Is that likely to be a problem? (I am good enough that I won't be blowing through the steel, and I would clean the area first) Cheers Rog
  6. ThreeSheds

    2001 discovery 2 td5 auto

    the actual keys you would insert in the lock...
  7. ThreeSheds

    Random musings on the D4

    Most annoying thing so far on this car: You can't just roll it forwards a few feet... I often park the car reversed up to the garage door, which is a little bit up hill. This morning I needed access to the rear of the car and there wasn't enough room for the tailgate to lift up. So I got in the car with the intent of rolling it forward a couple of feet. And of course you can't get it out of P without starting the engine! And since it it below 5oC out there, the FBH started up, and continued running after I had finished and came inside. All in all a big hit on the battery and probably 1/2 a litre of fuel wasted... It's a great car and all but sometimes I just hanker after something a bit more basic - like my old 80" series 1...
  8. ThreeSheds

    Random musings on the D4

    Thanks - I'll remember that.. There were loads that didn't come back once cleared, but the back door actually doesn't lock, and the DAB radio is poor, and both faults were reported again after being cleared
  9. ThreeSheds

    Vehicle transport recommendations

    Last year I moved a D2 from the southern Lake District to Aberdeenshire. I used Shipley, and IIRC it cost me £325. The chap was quite friendly but due to vehicle problems, he turned up at about 2am! I think that the Shipley system works well though. I was moving the car from Ulpha to Lumphanan
  10. It tastes quite nice, but I don't have a container and was wondering how nasty it is...
  11. ThreeSheds

    2001 discovery 2 td5 auto

    Now THAT I don't know... Mine was typed out on several bits of paper that came with the car - one in the glove box, one with the log book etc etc. Presumably the last owner was worried about losing it. I photographed it on my phone for the same reason. I suspect that your friendly local Land Rover dealer could find it for you (for a fee no doubt) or it might be in the original docs that came with the new car - if you have them. Rog
  12. ThreeSheds

    2001 discovery 2 td5 auto

    I always use my EKA - once you have put it in (quite a faff) then your physical key works like normal until next time you disconnect the battery. Once you have it running on EKA you can get your current keys coded to the car if necessary. My keys are not coded to the car but I have spent the last 50 years using physical keys so I don't really mind
  13. ThreeSheds

    How nasty is OAT coolant? Got it in my mouth!

    Well it was orange and I thought that meant OAT... But no - I am not sure since I didn't put it in... Anyway - ALWAYS tastes foul you say? How often do you resort to drinking it then Unlike you it's my first time - but I expected that the french wine additive part of it would be sweet? Perhaps the brand that was in the D2 was chaep (no bittering agent)...
  14. ThreeSheds

    How nasty is OAT coolant? Got it in my mouth!

    No unripe bananas then No, I didn't swallow it, but it did taste quite sweet,, so I was thinking of the doctor in 'Cannonball Run', and wondering... you know
  15. ThreeSheds

    Welding a water pipe

    thanks for the advice gents - bearing in mind what you have said I will clean it up and put some of that "QuickSteel" over it... I will also check that the water level switch in the header tank is working - just in case Rog
  16. ThreeSheds

    Advice on an LR4 requested

    Disco 4 (LR4) is fantastic. Comfortable, fast enough, tows 3.5 tonnes and is amazing in snow or offroad. For the diesel there is a 'BIG' (ie expensive) service at 7 years/105,000 mile that you might want to look at, but I don't know if that applies to petrol engine? I would say that for your intended usage, you won't find much better...
  17. ThreeSheds

    Random musings on the D4

    Got the GAP Diagnostic IID Tool yesterday and got it set up last night - a bit of a faff but made it in the end... So - to the error codes! DABM-Digital Radio B1A56-13 ("F) Antenna circuit - General electrical failure - circuit open DDM-Driver Door B110A-11 (6C) Rear door driver side central locking motor - General electrical failure - circuit short to ground Well I guess I am a bit disappointed, but it could be (a lot) worse. The DAB fault probably explains why the DAB radio is poor, although since I live in rural Aberdeenshire I don't expect much on that front anyway, and I still have VHF radio... It's a shame about the door - it's been that way since November and I never noticed! Good job it didn't get nicked eh? Anyway - I can lock it from the inside, manually, but obviously it is something I have to get fixed. Now... I have one of those 'second hand car breakdown insurance' things, and I have never thought them to be any good, but we will see... The company is "Warranty Wise" which do have a decent reputation. Be interesting to see how this goes. Watch this space! I guess that overall I am pleased that there is nothing too bad, lets hope it stays that way! Rog
  18. ThreeSheds

    Random musings on the D4

    This would appear to be at odds with much of what I have read, but then I have read it on the internet so who knows if it's right or not. Thanks for your comment Now that IS something new... I have not heard of that one but it kindof makes sense... How do they 'turn them off'? I have noticed that when the D4 is on a longer journey the voltage starts out at 14.7 volts, then after a while it drops to 12.6 - this is (I assume) when it's stopped charging the battery (ie I think it's at 100%) and the alternator is merely producing enough juice to power whatever is running... but I don't think that would count as turning it off??? Rog
  19. ThreeSheds

    Random musings on the D4

    The following post is full of my opinions... I am NOT AN EXPERT and anything you do to your car should NOT be based on this post without checking things yourself Battery thoughts: This Disco4 is the first car that I have owned with an AGM battery... And since I knew nothing about AGM batteries, I thought I would investigate and share my findings here: AGM stands for "Absorbent Glass Mat" (or similar depending on what you read). Prior to AGM, batteries would be 'wet' or 'gel'. 'Wet' is when there are lead and lead oxide plates surrounded by sulphuric acid. Since the plates are not too well supported, they have to be made from a lead alloy so that they are stronger and more able to resist knocks and vibration. Lead alloy is less effective electrically. 'Gel' is pretty much the same as wet, but with a gelling agent introduced in the acid to reduce the chances of spillage. 'AGM' is when the lead and lead oxide plates are separated and supported by a fine glass mat which also holds the acid like a sponge. Because the plates are rather better supported, they can be made from pure(r) lead which is more effective in the battery. An AGM battery is therefore stronger physically (more able to resist knocks etc) and better electrically. Some batteries spiral the lead-glass-lead oxide sandwiches into a drum shape and reflect that with the exterior shape of the battery. An AGM battery needs (of maybe just benefits from) a different charging regime which is noticeable since the charging voltage will be around 14.7 volts rather than 14.4 volts for a wet or gel battery. For this reason the Discovery 4 and similar need to know what type of battery is connected. I think that all UK D4s were supplied with AGM batteries, so if you change to a wet or gel battery you need to tell the BMS (Battery Management System) or it might over charge the battery. If you are replacing an AGM battery with a new AGM battery then there is no need to inform the car of the change. Also there should be no resetting of (radio etc) codes required as long as you don't leave the car batteryless for more time than necessary So - what battery to fit? AGM is better in almost all situations so go for that, but be aware that if the car did have a wet battery then you need to tell the BMS that it's now an AGM! Something else I picked up on my wanders through the world of lead-acid accumulators is that they like to be fully charged... They REALLY like to be fully charged. One comment was that keeping the battery topped up with a modern smart-charger can lengthen it's life by three times! One key point here is the phrase 'modern smart-charger' - old chargers wont be able to manage the charge well enough to get near this number. It appears from my researches that the most suitable charger for the D4 is the CTEK MXS 10 (if you can afford it). Quote from some website somewhere: "The D4 is hard on it's battery"... As soon as you get in the car things start draining it, and when you press the button the battery really takes a hammering. I can take a few miles to put back in what you have just taken out so repeated short journeys can leave the battery in a reduced state of charge*. When I checked mine it was commonly running at around 75% charge with repeated 30 minute journeys. I am not sure if this is unusual or not, but having charged it with the above mentioned MXS 10, it is now (2 days later) still running at a higher charge than before. I am thinking that an overnight charge once a week will help prolong the life of the battery significantly. I feel that I should point out that the car was running fine on 75% charge, in fact a while ago it was sitting at about 50% and still running ok. *Note that the modern alternator on the D4 should be capable of charging the battery even when sitting at the lights with screen heaters, seat heaters and lights on. It's really the length of time that the system has in which to charge the battery that counts. Establishing the level of charge of a D4 battery is problematic since it is difficult to test the battery voltage without setting off multiple electrical drains, and the quoted voltages rely upon the battery having been standing with no drain for several (12?) hours. The voltages are also temperature dependent (perhaps counter-intuitively, a given battery will show a higher voltage at a lower temperature). On mine I took voltage readings from the trailer socket (see below) and compared it with figures here (although those figures are not for an AGM battery). While on the subject of keeping the battery topped up, if the D4 has a 'caravan' towing socket (a '12S, 7 pin, white one) then the car can be charged through that socket as long as 10 amps is not exceeded... This is one reason why the MXS 10 was particularly mentioned above - it's maximum delivered current is 10 amps and so should be safe to use in this manner. The earth pin in the socket is the centre one and the constant live pin is the one at 9 o'clock (on the D4 socket - other cars may vary!). My plan is to use the 12S socket with a modified plug that will come out easily should I forget it and drive off. Well I think that's about it. I hope this helps someone, and if anyone spots anything potentially dangerous or wrong, please let me know and I will modify this post accordingly. I repeat that I am NOT AN EXPERT and anything you do to your car should NOT be based on this post without checking things yourself Cheers Rog
  20. ThreeSheds

    Random musings on the D4

    I am a programmer... I am used to complexity and pedantic instructions... I have just received my new GAP IID tool and I am reading the instructions... WOW! 180 pages... Do there really need to be 9 sections in the 'Before first usage' section? Including: 2nd • • Create a user account on the website 3rd • • Installation of the updater software 4th • • Installation of Interfaces : PC Interface*, Mobile App 5th • • Updating the IIDTool’s firmware 6th • Synchronizing the Mobile Application, 9th • • Activating the IIDTool Time was when I could set up a car with a slot-blade screwdriver and a fag-paper.. Rog
  21. ThreeSheds

    Forum Get Together

    Damn! Just committed the last of my available holidays for the year... I might be able to make it down on Saturday and home on Sunday, but it's a long way from Aberdeen... Next year perhaps I will suggest an NC500 forum drive out Rog
  22. ThreeSheds

    Battery charging/maintaining with Anderson connector

    I'm not too confident with modern car electrics, but reading through the above posts, it seems that the (I think common nowadays) owner handbook advice to "remove the battery from the vehicle before charging" and the frightening warning that "failure to do so could cause severe damage to the vehicle's electrical system" are perhaps a bit over the top? Sorry that this is a little off-topic (ie not Anderson connector related), but I think it is close enough since charging with a permanent connection implies that it's being done without disconnecting the battery... I have a D2 (who's handbook has those warnings) and regularly connect a trickle charger to it without ill effect, but I must admit that the same warnings on the D4 do have me concerned... Your thoughts and comments are appreciated and should any damage actually result, then I promise that nobody except me will be held to blame Roger
  23. ThreeSheds

    Good article - "King and Queen of the Sahara"

    haha - I think I'll use that as my tag-line... Great article, but too much to read at work
  24. ThreeSheds

    Paddocks Jump Start packs

    I did a lo-o-ong rebuild a few years back and I bought a battery charger/maintainer and took the battery into the house and left it connected (I put it in a builders bucket in case of any problems) and, even though it was a knackered battery, when it was warm and fresh off the charger it would still start the car (admittedly only a 3.9V8, not a diesel). I have never tried one of those power packs but honestly I fail to see how they can hold or deliver enough power to start a diesel... my two pence worth... Roger
  25. ThreeSheds

    The closer you look, the worse it gets

    I've made a lot worse!

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