ThreeSheds

Thoughts about the gearbox and the flappy paddle things.. The gearbox is the 8 speed auto and it has a problem that I like to call "the min-roundabout death roll". The scenario is always similar to this (the first time): I was approaching a min-roundabout, driving quite sedately, and there was a stream of traffic entering from the right and going straight on. As I got close, braking to maybe 5mph, the next car from my right indicated that he was turning left. This was an opportunity. There was a truck behind him, but I could make the gap ok... I take my foot off the brake and onto the throttle - slightly heavier than normal since I need to make the gap... and ... and ... The car rolls sedately out into the path of the truck ... NOTHING IS HAPPENING! Getting worried now I apply more throttle, and finally after about a second, the engine revs, the torque converter engages, and the flipping thing takes off like a scolded cat. By now the truck is having a great time on his air horns. Can't say as I blame him. The problem as I see it is this: Whereas with my TD5 auto in the same situation, the box would already be in 1st (of four) gear, and applying throttle instantly causes the engine to rev and hence it starts to pull, I think with the Disco 4, the car is probably still in 2nd or even 3rd at that point, and so the electronics (when they see a larger than normal throttle applied) decide to change down a gear or two. While this change is taking place, the engine is prevented from revving (that would stress the box internals) until the change is complete. Of course by the time everything is ready to go, I have realised that nothing is happening and automatically applied even more throttle. Now everything engages and 255bhp is released which launches the car, wheels squealing for the centre of the roundbout. So now to possible solutions... I have heard that there is a software update that goes a long way to solving it. Use sport mode. Pre-select a low gear the flappy paddle shifters. I haven't yet investigated the software fix and TBH I am not entirely sure from what I have read that it is worth it. (Has anyone gone down this route? Does it work or is it only a partial improvement?) Sport mode improves the situation, but there is still a delay, and I would need to predict before I get to the roundabout/junction etc that I might need since I wouldn't want to normally drive in sport mode.. Flappy paddle shifters - well they work, but IMHO, they are not really fit for purpose (if that purpose is normal highway driving) since by half way around the roundabout I find myself still in 1st gear, revving the nuts off it and not sure where the 'up' paddle is because the wheel is turned 1800 or more. Maybe one day I'll sort it, but for now I just wanted to vent a bit...

Thinking overnight on this bumper... Looks like it will be coming off again You see, from memory I would say that the holes in the chassis are about 12mm, and that the holes in the bumper are slotted clearance for 10mm bolts (which is what the original bumper was fitted with). This means a lot of potential movement.... Good when trying to line things up but bad when considering that the bumper needs to take both ground impacts, and recovery loads. So my thinking is that I should open the slotted bumper holes a bit, mount the bumper using 12mm bolts (if I can get them through the chassis), and use thick washers. Then, once the position is good, the washers can be welded to the bumper, thus effectively locking it in one position. Extra work, but I'm in no hurry... My old RRC took 4 years to get back on the road, I don't think that this will take that long but <shrug> it takes what it takes...

good point... true, but it would look better... Maybe I'll make one out of plywood

The next stage... Bolts in... And finally: It looks high because it's still on axle stands... Hmmm I think I will be needing a steering guard...

Brilliant! Just as I expected, loads of really good ideas here. Thank you one and all. I am thinking trolley jack, and wooden blocks with perhaps some ratchet strappery thrown in for good measure. I'll let you know how I get on. (I might even take a picture) Should get it done tonight as long as it rains - otherwise I'll have to cut the lawn! Thanks again

Nah mate - I don't borrow tools... I enjoy buying them too much for that In the past I have bench pressed a front bumper into position and held it with my knees while fitting the bolts, but I fear that I am too old, and this bumper is too heavy, for such shenanigans now... I think the wood idea is good - why didn't I think of that? Senility probably. I will try that. Thanks! DAMN! No need to buy more tools now...

Hi, I am very proud of the fact that I manage to do all jobs on my cars by myself - with use of tools and equipment, but for the last 15 years I have not had any human assistance (the dog sometimes helps a bit)... Now I face the problem of offering up a front winch bumper on the D2 and I find that I can no longer handle that kind of weight (I am 65) so am looking for a way of hoisting it into place and supporting it while I fit the bolts. Notes: I have free access to sufficient scaffolding for a well over engineered gantry. I don't normally borrow or hire things, preferring instead to use need as an excuse to satisfy my continual desire for new tools... I didn't set out to get a winch bumper, but there were some very cheap ones on ebay one evening after I'd had a beer or two I do however, now quite fancy having a winch Initial thoughts (with pros/cons) are: Engine crane and balance bar. I have seen one I like the look of that would cost about £230 including the balance bar. I would probably never use it for it's intended purpose (at my age I don't even buy unripe bananas ) I could use it at a later date when I get round to fitting a body lift, but can't think of any other upcoming uses... Electric winch with scaffolding gantry I will probably buy a winch anyway, so maybe I should buy one now and bolt it into the bumper, then use it to lift the assembly into place using a scaffolding gantry? This option would cost about £600, and I wasn't really wanting to spend much more on the car until it passes an MoT... On the plus side - a winch would look really cool, and secretly we all want our cars to look cool eh? Tirfor with scaffolding gantry. Not really sure that I have the youth/vigor to use a Tirfor for its intended purpose, so again it may be a one use expense of possibly £200... block and tackle with scaffolding gantry Probably a one off expense of about £50 The reason I am asking here is that I have IMMENSE respect for the experience and knowledge of people on this forum and so your comments/thoughts/advice/guidance are all welcome, but of course I reserve the right to completely ignore all of you and do something totally stupid instead... Cheers Roger

Good point, mine wasn't black - but then neither was it cherry red... It was a sort of "brown with tiny black specks" colour

Another vote for oil and filter change - mine (TD5 though) had similar symptoms and a double oil/filter change brought it back to normal and it's still going strong..

It's an easy car to drive fast (well faster than you should, anyway)

Fuel consumption testing... Two checks from tank full to tank full, 340 miles and 268 miles of mixed commuting and country driving (FYI my commute is mainly 60mph roads)... Calculated values about 26mpg, when the instruments 'average mpg' value is about 28mpg.

Thanks, but it's done now...

the actual keys you would insert in the lock...

Most annoying thing so far on this car: You can't just roll it forwards a few feet... I often park the car reversed up to the garage door, which is a little bit up hill. This morning I needed access to the rear of the car and there wasn't enough room for the tailgate to lift up. So I got in the car with the intent of rolling it forward a couple of feet. And of course you can't get it out of P without starting the engine! And since it it below 5oC out there, the FBH started up, and continued running after I had finished and came inside. All in all a big hit on the battery and probably 1/2 a litre of fuel wasted... It's a great car and all but sometimes I just hanker after something a bit more basic - like my old 80" series 1...

Thanks - I'll remember that.. There were loads that didn't come back once cleared, but the back door actually doesn't lock, and the DAB radio is poor, and both faults were reported again after being cleared

Last year I moved a D2 from the southern Lake District to Aberdeenshire. I used Shipley, and IIRC it cost me £325. The chap was quite friendly but due to vehicle problems, he turned up at about 2am! I think that the Shipley system works well though. I was moving the car from Ulpha to Lumphanan

Now THAT I don't know... Mine was typed out on several bits of paper that came with the car - one in the glove box, one with the log book etc etc. Presumably the last owner was worried about losing it. I photographed it on my phone for the same reason. I suspect that your friendly local Land Rover dealer could find it for you (for a fee no doubt) or it might be in the original docs that came with the new car - if you have them. Rog

I always use my EKA - once you have put it in (quite a faff) then your physical key works like normal until next time you disconnect the battery. Once you have it running on EKA you can get your current keys coded to the car if necessary. My keys are not coded to the car but I have spent the last 50 years using physical keys so I don't really mind

Well it was orange and I thought that meant OAT... But no - I am not sure since I didn't put it in... Anyway - ALWAYS tastes foul you say? How often do you resort to drinking it then Unlike you it's my first time - but I expected that the french wine additive part of it would be sweet? Perhaps the brand that was in the D2 was chaep (no bittering agent)...

No unripe bananas then No, I didn't swallow it, but it did taste quite sweet,, so I was thinking of the doctor in 'Cannonball Run', and wondering... you know

It tastes quite nice, but I don't have a container and was wondering how nasty it is...

thanks for the advice gents - bearing in mind what you have said I will clean it up and put some of that "QuickSteel" over it... I will also check that the water level switch in the header tank is working - just in case Rog

While doing some work on the TD5 Disco the other day I accidentally caught the steel coolant pipe that runs behind the rad-stack with a grinder and put a little groove in it. It's not right through but I think that with temperature cycling and vibrations it would not be a good idea to leave it since it would almost certainly crack. Since that pipe is expensive and looks like a bit of a pain to fit I was thinking of mig welding it in situ. I have drained that coolant, but there may still be a small amount of it behind where I would be welding. Is that likely to be a problem? (I am good enough that I won't be blowing through the steel, and I would clean the area first) Cheers Rog

Disco 4 (LR4) is fantastic. Comfortable, fast enough, tows 3.5 tonnes and is amazing in snow or offroad. For the diesel there is a 'BIG' (ie expensive) service at 7 years/105,000 mile that you might want to look at, but I don't know if that applies to petrol engine? I would say that for your intended usage, you won't find much better...