ThreeSheds

A bit like the old Minilites but with less spokes. Did anyone else have a 'thing' for 'Minilite Maggie'? TS Oh! and by the way - I think that they look GREAT - but somehow I don't like the idea of off-road alloys...

with all other factors the same (speed, angles, acceleration, transmitted power etc) then - with portals - the shaft will be turning twice as fast and hence carrying half the torque. So half the turnover effect. My tuppence worth. TS Incidentally - for the same reason my father was taught (in WWII) not to use the transmission brake on a jeep while the vehicle is moving in case it flips it over. Anyone know if there is any truth in this one?

About 25 years ago a friend was driving his S2A when a car (an Austin Maxi I think) drifted over into his lane. My friend blew his horn but he kept on coming. Just as he made contact, my friend gently steered into him and applied the brakes. It completely removed the rear wing of the other car and made a few scuffmarks on the Landy's bumper... One-nil I think... We also hit a cow head-on in India in the same truck which trashed the wing and headlight. The cow just looked at us, shook it's head and then slowly walked away. One-all...

I have a cheap airhorn (mine was £14 IIRC) fitted to the CBR600. Keep the pipework shortish and run it's relay in parallel with the normal (for MoT) horn. I also used only one of the horns supplied - the piercing one Don't forget to warn the MoT tester though - last time he complained that it had given him a heart-attack On the subject of using them for inflation - do it with caution... Many years ago I tried to do a motorbike tyre with one and it overheated the pump... It never worked again My current airhorn is the cheapest I could find, is seven years old and gets used extensively most weekdays (I commute in Leeds). An occasional shot of WD40 up it's intake is the only care it has had and it's still going good. With the normal (Mondeo?) horn - how about covering it's mouth with a thin plastic film or even a stocking to stop most of the crud? Should still be loud enough for an MoT methinks... TS

No - don't blame yourself... It was me! I washed my motorbike... TS

"the gun is always loaded and the hi-lift always kicks" I use mine every few days while I am re-building my RRC and although I treat it with utmost respect, I don't see that it is particularly dangerous among all the other workshop hazards.. TS

Yeah... Ants'l do that... TS

Welcome Alan... Any pics of the truck? TS

Cool! I never heard of this. Apparently it's been around in US for a couple of years. Definitely about time they made a UK version... What frequencies do you have where you are BM? Would this do the job (even though it still has no torch)? TS

OT it may be, but I will watch this thread with interest since I am looking for something similar myself... I did a quick trawl of the web a couple of weeks ago and there doesn't appear to be anything that suits - so maybe we should design our own "Land~Phone" based on BMs initial spec? 1. Rugged - silicone cover built in with thicker bits at the corners. 2. Splash proof due to same silicone cover. 3. Built in torch - one super-bright LED should do, also a stretchy neck lanyard fitted so you can use it as a head-torch or attach it to stuff. 4. 2MP camera (I know you said you didn't want this BM, but you got to admit for that unexpected excursion/situation/crash it would be useful?) 5. Big clicky keys (under the one-piece silicone) for big oily fingers. 6. Smallish screen (less likely to get smashed). Any more? TS

Hi James - and welcome. You've certainly come to the right place for advice on all things Land and Range Rover and a few other things besides! For welding there is an excellent and informative thread here and loads more as well. Hope you enjoy your project and that you post pictures Cheers TS

Useful pics Gromit! Also, as mentioned elsewhere on the forum recently: 1. Don't forget they have locknuts on the other side. 2. If they are tight, give them penetrating oil and a few days rest. 3. Wind out the one on the opposite side to the rubbing. TwoSheds

I have no knowledge of this, but am amazed that oil that has been at, what? 150deg C ? has any water content at all. I guess you learn something new every day... Roger

Had a Paddocks front headlight repair panel for RRC. It was the wrong one (an earlier type) and when I called I was told that they only stock one type. I said that they should make it clear on the web site that a decent amount of fettling would be required for later RRC and the answer was something along the lines of 'what do you expect for the price?'. I have to admit it was cheap so I shut up and kept it. Still annoying that it wasn't pointed out though... I do still use them cos I'm skint and they're cheap, but do so with caution... Roger

about a tenner each - and I'll have 5

As said above - bulkhead grommets on my 90RRC are all over the place - some missing, some just shot. Also the sun-roof has a steel gutter designed to catch water and channel it to the aforementioned drain tubes - on mine this has rusted through at the corners. Also anything below knee level (when sitting in it) may have corrosion. The further from the centreline it is the more likely it is to be teabagged. (the anti-rust oil leak thing really does work ) Welcome to the world of Range Rover ownership Roger

Recently I heard of a bloke who sheared off his lock stop while trying to adjust it... Something I wouldn't have thought would happen, but would probably cause a world of pain if it did... If they are very tight then it's probably worth giving them a week of WD40 rather than forcing the issue with a 3ft breaker or some-such. Roger

? This appears to be a link to the pictures thread...

Oh - and for pulling it off (ooh Matron!) you need to make yourself some self-tightening draw pliers - I'm afraid I can't find a picture of any but I used to use them on a powered wire drawing bench years ago. ISTR that they are well known technology... If you can't find any to copy I'll do a sketch later if you like

I seem to remember from somewhere that three turns around a drum will hold anything, so by that logic the lower layers should be ok... unless I am missing something here...

Looks like you were bricking it :hysterical:

Including the option to send a cheque if you don't like electonic funds transfer...