currymunster

Oopps I did not notice your location Heres a link - you might be able to order one in??? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-X-Radiator-Bleed-Valve-Air-Vent-Brand-New-o-ring-seal-/181302670310?pt=UK_Home_Garden_Hearing_Cooling_Air&hash=item2a367b33e6

Not tried it myself yet but I believe that the bleed plug from a domestic radiator fits the thermostat thread so you can bleed it that way. I got one already but not fitted it yet!!

I see - I will look in to that. The only ones I have seen get wired to side light so that they sense when you turn the lights on. This then in turn turns the DRL's OFF which stops night time dazzle :-)

Thanks Western. However, I don't completely understand the last paragraph. Could you re phrase it for an idiot please. Sorry to be a pain I think you telling me to use a DRL that is combined with a conventional side light?

Could be the head is not sealed - I had a 300Tdi go on piston 4. That made a tapping noise till I fixed. Other options are Caps Lift pump Vacuum pump Exhaust manifold gasket Tappets need adjusting othersbut these are most prevelant.

I was thinking of upgrading my lights and getting DRL's due to a big accident last July which wrote my 1995 110 CSW off. It's now sitting on the drive to be repaired ready for it's MOT and VIC. Any way I dont like the idea of DRL's stuck anywhere to I thought of the mini type crystal healights with the side light in it. Reroute the side wiring to the head light then some kind of retro fit of a DRL in the side light hole. All wired correctly so they turn off when normal lights turn on. I don't want to dazzle I just want to be seen!!!!!!!! What do you guys think! James

The pads may have worn a fair bit over 2000 miles depending on driving syle. This in turn means as the pads get thiner they move closer to the disk which means the fliud drops. Top up by all means but as you said "Check the pads"

Sorry to hi jack an old thread. I'm experiencing this leak and stripped the cover off. One of the welch plugs has disintergrated. I thought I could just seal up and leak solved. However, things don't always leak for no reason and on closer inspection i found traces of oil in the servo pipe - This can't be good - If I just resealed up the oil would still leak up the pipe and into the servo (That can't be good!!) So just buy a new one as the oil is leaking because the pump is broken. £70 for peace of mind and safety. Your desicion. Is oil bad in the servo????

Thanks everyone for all the replies. I,ve stumped for a box spanner - money more than anything. Just need it back on the road so I can sell my Transit which broke down today (Knackered Turbo) The 95 110 CSW 300Tdi is coming on So far for the MOT I've : Replaced windscreen 3 new track rod ends new drop arm ball joint new steering box New lower U/J on steering shaft Welded hoop end of steering damper to fix new wiper blades Made a new bracket for brake T peice thats bolted to rear diff welded new M5 bolts to rear axle for brake pipe p clips to fix on new rear crossmember Fabricated rear chassis upto antiroll bar mounts fixed hole in fuel tank new spill return plate on tank new sender unit (broke it when dropping tank for crossmember) New anti roll bar ball joints and bushes New bush brackets I think thats all I've done Still to do Front discs and pads Tracking weld front dumb iron weld and plate both bulkhead outriggers N/s bottom only O/s ??????? Weld fix exhaust Only bought it last May - already off road then for three months for new clutch and gearbox rebuild and new transfer box oh and gearbox crossmember which is really hard to find for a 300tdi 110 csw. Keep smiling - I'll get there

Hello and a warm hello to everyone. I have searched to no avail. Does anyone know what size the front hub nut is on a '95 110 CSW. I've got loads of sockets and want to make an order from lr series so I've got everything to do a disc change. Pointless buying another if I already have the right size. Does it need to be long reach? is it metric or imperial? Thanks Guys James