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Northern Paul

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  • Location
    Bristol

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  • Interests
    Land Rovers,surfing,mountain biking, singlespeed mountainbiking (nichetastic!) and proper cider

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  1. Ralph, Thank you so much. I clearly didn't read your post properly. I've done as you said and have just spent a very contented 10 mins playing with my variable intermittent wash wipe system. Once again, many many thanks! Cheers, Paul
  2. Further to my above post; the red wire has a light green tracer. I also found this very useful post: All the wire colours indicate screen wiper motor to switch. Which makes logical sense. I just don't know where it plugs in.... Ideas? Thanks, Paul
  3. Holy thread revival! After something of a hiatus I am finally getting round to undertaking the variable intermittent wiper mod; my hand was forced when my old wash wipe stalk snapped - typically in the rain. Thank goodness for a RainX treated screen. Anyways, I took ianmayco68 up on his offer of the Autosparks intermittent wash wipe loom. I have the later PRC7370 wash wipe switch as well as the '99' relay. With respect to the Autosparks loom; there are two moulded plugs - one clearly attaches to the column switch but I am a bit confused as to where the other one physically plugs into...? I'm guessing at the wiper motor? Mine is a 1986 ex-military 90. I have attached a few pictures to try and show the plug I am referring to. It has 5 wires, female connector, wire colours: green, red, blue with green tracer, brown with green tracer & green with black tracer. Can anyone shed any light on this or point me in the right direction? My intention was to coil up the excess and secure the relay in the space behind the instruments to avoid having to feed it down to the space behind the fuse box - it seems a bit tight to try and get it down there! Apologies if this is a really basic question but I'd appreciate hearing some superior knowledge to mine. Thanks in advance, Paul
  4. Once again, thanks for the updates and experiences. Just to clarify - if I go down the spacer route they will being fitted behind steel wheels. Presumably hub centric ones (like I referenced in my first post) are what I am after? Cheers, Paul
  5. Hi, Good to hear from people who have used them and not had any ill experiences. td5defender - many thanks for the before and after shots. Anyone else? Cheers, Paul
  6. Snagger, Thanks for taking the time to post. Interesting to hear your experience of using spacers. What brand wheel spacers were they? It's the first instance I have heard of whereby they spacers caused the detrimental effects you mention to stub axles. Has anyone else experienced this who can comment? Cheers, Paul
  7. Many thanks for the replies. I've a much better understanding of the situation now. If I went down the wheels route; I'm guessing most tyre fitting places would swap them over for a reasonable cost. Plenty to ponder - thanks again...
  8. Bowie69 - thanks for your reply. I am away from home and will be for some time. I'll have a look at the photos on my phone and see if there are any photos I can show to indicate what I'm after. 255/85R16s would mount on either a 7" or 8" rim I presume? with an 8" rim giving the tyre a 'squarer' profile? Is one beneficial to the other? Thanks in advance.
  9. OK - thinking about rims then: If I am unsure of the current offset am I right in thinking that ET0 is what I need to replicate the effect a 30mm spacer would give? Where are people seeing them at £40 a rim? (I'm currently working away somewhere with a very slow internet connection so my GoogleFu is throttled at the moment - any help gratefully received) I'd prefer this route but it is good to hear from at least one person that the spacers haven't been an issue. Cheers
  10. 16" Black steel modular style. Wheels and tyres bought as a package from (I think) Paddocks.
  11. Good morning, I'm thinking of a set of the aforementioned spacers. Haters gonna hate. That's fine. It'd be boring if we all thought exactly the same Recently fitted 255/85/R16 BFG Mud Terrains (KM2) & would like them to fill out the arches a bit more. Yup, I'm that shallow. The extra steering lock would be nice too. I looked into a set of steel Wolf style wheels with an ET0 offset but for a set of 5 wheels followed by getting my tyres swapped over, spacers are better value. Now, I have researched the pro's and con's and, so far as I can work out, the horror stories are very few and far between. Fitted correctly, with genuine LR wheel nuts, torqued up to recommended torque, red Threadlock and a dab of paint to provide a visual marker along with periodic check - say 3 months - & I can't envisage a problem. Have you bought any? If so which did you go for? I've shortlisted Rakeway (expensive option but well made one would think), Optimill (slightly less expensive but provided with genuine LR nuts) or A.N.other I am not aware of yet. Its not a product I want cheap off eBay! Basically recommendations from those who have them please Cheers, Paul
  12. Removed the indicator dash light and the problem is resolved. I've ordered one of the BoB modded ones so hopefully that resolves the issue. Cheers Western
  13. Hello, Setup: 1986 90 fitted with LED lights all round. RDX / Bolt on Bits adjustable relay Additional LED indicators at roof height at rear. Hazards working fine. All lights working Problem: Everything has been working OK. This weekend I was routinely checking the lights & noticed that when I indicate either left or right all the indicators come on - if I indicate left then the left indicators come on brightly but the right indicators come on too albeit dimmer. Still enough to be confusing to other motorists though. Same vice versa if I indicate to the right. The indicator lamp on the dash seems faint too whichever way I'm indicating. Does this sound like an earth issue somewhere? I've no idea where to start looking so any guidance much appreciated. Cheers, Paul
  14. I have one of Niges kits too & its bloomin' marvellous. Top work.
  15. I ummed and arred about this for ages. Bit the bullet and ordered Genuine, don't regret it for a second. A dream to fit compared to a mate who went for a cheap pattern part. He had to faff / swear / struggle for a few hours per door and his were a poor fit and he ended up replacing them in 6 months. Somethings are just worth paying for. I did both sides in about 15 mins. Do it right, do it once. Good luck
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