Northern Paul

Its not a particularly big deal to remove, its been out before as I've been in there to access / add wiring runs. Just another thing to thing about. Cheers, Paul

That photo is useful as it gives me an indication of the bolt position relative to the vents. Being ex-military, the light switch and metalwork its attached to will need to come out first then! Cheers, Paul

More useful information, thank you. In light of everything so far, I'll start by disconnecting the control cable on the righthand side of the dash and try to ascertain if I can waggle the flaps with my fingers. If so, it seems likely the cable will be seized / jammed & it'll get a liberal dosing of penetrating fluid over a few days with some judicious wiggling and jiggling. However, if the flaps are still retricient once the cable is removed, I'll get in there with a WiFi endoscope camera on my phone to see if there is anything obvious blocking things. If that doesn't yeild anything conclusive then on to... ... stripping the lower dash while attempting to leave the upper dash in place. If it comes to this I'll likely remove the whole lower dash to get some Silent Coat in the heater duct enclosure along with some closed cell foam to try and prevent some of the drumming but more to insulate the enclosure so toasty hot air from the heater isn't coming staight into contact with cold metal. @FridgeFreezer in the attached diagram, where are bolts #6 hidden? Presumably the captive nuts #9 are in the bulkhead. Any idea of bolt size? Once again, thanks for the help / advice so far... Cheers, Paul

Photos are really appreciated & useful but most of all, I'm intrigued and heartened by Fridges reply that it can be removed without disturbing the upper dash; if this is right (and I have no reason to doubt) then it would make life far easier! Hopefully work won't be too busy tomorrow and I can trawl some members threads. Fridge, can you recall if theres anything particular about just removing the lower dash? I'll be starting with disconnecting the cable at the dash end and giving the flap a finger wiggle and go from there. Once again, thanks for the input so far. Cheers, Paul

I can move the flaps slightly with my fingers but certainly not much. Simon - good thinking to remove the cable from the right hand side controls and see if I can move the flaps then. I'll have a fiddle when I get home and go from there. If anyone has any photos as they have stripped a dash out that would be brilliant! Cheers, Paul

Thanks, that's interesting and useful. I'd rather not strip the whole dash if I can help it but if needs must then I guess I'll have to. Anyone have any more info, diagrams or photos? Thanks, Paul

Hello, I'm on a mission to sort out my heater, first up is sorting the non functioning lower vents. Its an ex-military 90 and the lower vents appear jammed or stuck - they've been like this for years. I cannot adjust the lever on the dash to direct the heat to the windscreen vents & don't want to force it. I get reasonably good heat and airflow but I want to be able to direct it. I have found the diagram showing the arrangement but my questions are: do I need to remove the lower dash to get to them - presumably so - & if so does the dash top need to come out too? Once the lower dash is out are the heater flaps contained within it? Has anyone got any photos of this? What might be causing the lower flaps to jam? If I reach in with my fingers I can't move the flaps either. Where do I start with this?!? I'm not going to be with the car for another week but I want to get on with it once I'm home. Cheers, Paul

Ralph, Thank you so much. I clearly didn't read your post properly. I've done as you said and have just spent a very contented 10 mins playing with my variable intermittent wash wipe system. Once again, many many thanks! Cheers, Paul

Further to my above post; the red wire has a light green tracer. I also found this very useful post: All the wire colours indicate screen wiper motor to switch. Which makes logical sense. I just don't know where it plugs in.... Ideas? Thanks, Paul

Holy thread revival! After something of a hiatus I am finally getting round to undertaking the variable intermittent wiper mod; my hand was forced when my old wash wipe stalk snapped - typically in the rain. Thank goodness for a RainX treated screen. Anyways, I took ianmayco68 up on his offer of the Autosparks intermittent wash wipe loom. I have the later PRC7370 wash wipe switch as well as the '99' relay. With respect to the Autosparks loom; there are two moulded plugs - one clearly attaches to the column switch but I am a bit confused as to where the other one physically plugs into...? I'm guessing at the wiper motor? Mine is a 1986 ex-military 90. I have attached a few pictures to try and show the plug I am referring to. It has 5 wires, female connector, wire colours: green, red, blue with green tracer, brown with green tracer & green with black tracer. Can anyone shed any light on this or point me in the right direction? My intention was to coil up the excess and secure the relay in the space behind the instruments to avoid having to feed it down to the space behind the fuse box - it seems a bit tight to try and get it down there! Apologies if this is a really basic question but I'd appreciate hearing some superior knowledge to mine. Thanks in advance, Paul

Once again, thanks for the updates and experiences. Just to clarify - if I go down the spacer route they will being fitted behind steel wheels. Presumably hub centric ones (like I referenced in my first post) are what I am after? Cheers, Paul

Hi, Good to hear from people who have used them and not had any ill experiences. td5defender - many thanks for the before and after shots. Anyone else? Cheers, Paul

Snagger, Thanks for taking the time to post. Interesting to hear your experience of using spacers. What brand wheel spacers were they? It's the first instance I have heard of whereby they spacers caused the detrimental effects you mention to stub axles. Has anyone else experienced this who can comment? Cheers, Paul

Many thanks for the replies. I've a much better understanding of the situation now. If I went down the wheels route; I'm guessing most tyre fitting places would swap them over for a reasonable cost. Plenty to ponder - thanks again...

Bowie69 - thanks for your reply. I am away from home and will be for some time. I'll have a look at the photos on my phone and see if there are any photos I can show to indicate what I'm after. 255/85R16s would mount on either a 7" or 8" rim I presume? with an 8" rim giving the tyre a 'squarer' profile? Is one beneficial to the other? Thanks in advance.

OK - thinking about rims then: If I am unsure of the current offset am I right in thinking that ET0 is what I need to replicate the effect a 30mm spacer would give? Where are people seeing them at £40 a rim? (I'm currently working away somewhere with a very slow internet connection so my GoogleFu is throttled at the moment - any help gratefully received) I'd prefer this route but it is good to hear from at least one person that the spacers haven't been an issue. Cheers

16" Black steel modular style. Wheels and tyres bought as a package from (I think) Paddocks.

Good morning, I'm thinking of a set of the aforementioned spacers. Haters gonna hate. That's fine. It'd be boring if we all thought exactly the same Recently fitted 255/85/R16 BFG Mud Terrains (KM2) & would like them to fill out the arches a bit more. Yup, I'm that shallow. The extra steering lock would be nice too. I looked into a set of steel Wolf style wheels with an ET0 offset but for a set of 5 wheels followed by getting my tyres swapped over, spacers are better value. Now, I have researched the pro's and con's and, so far as I can work out, the horror stories are very few and far between. Fitted correctly, with genuine LR wheel nuts, torqued up to recommended torque, red Threadlock and a dab of paint to provide a visual marker along with periodic check - say 3 months - & I can't envisage a problem. Have you bought any? If so which did you go for? I've shortlisted Rakeway (expensive option but well made one would think), Optimill (slightly less expensive but provided with genuine LR nuts) or A.N.other I am not aware of yet. Its not a product I want cheap off eBay! Basically recommendations from those who have them please Cheers, Paul

Removed the indicator dash light and the problem is resolved. I've ordered one of the BoB modded ones so hopefully that resolves the issue. Cheers Western

Hello, Setup: 1986 90 fitted with LED lights all round. RDX / Bolt on Bits adjustable relay Additional LED indicators at roof height at rear. Hazards working fine. All lights working Problem: Everything has been working OK. This weekend I was routinely checking the lights & noticed that when I indicate either left or right all the indicators come on - if I indicate left then the left indicators come on brightly but the right indicators come on too albeit dimmer. Still enough to be confusing to other motorists though. Same vice versa if I indicate to the right. The indicator lamp on the dash seems faint too whichever way I'm indicating. Does this sound like an earth issue somewhere? I've no idea where to start looking so any guidance much appreciated. Cheers, Paul

I have one of Niges kits too & its bloomin' marvellous. Top work.

I ummed and arred about this for ages. Bit the bullet and ordered Genuine, don't regret it for a second. A dream to fit compared to a mate who went for a cheap pattern part. He had to faff / swear / struggle for a few hours per door and his were a poor fit and he ended up replacing them in 6 months. Somethings are just worth paying for. I did both sides in about 15 mins. Do it right, do it once. Good luck

Yup, already have LEDs on rear so have flasher relay in place. Any idea if 73mm lights are a straight swap size wise with Military ones?

Hello again, I got massively distracted last time I was home and only had a quick look at the lights; I saw how they came out but didn't actually remove them. I'm toying with the idea of replacing them with standard style lamps but Wipac LED versions; I run lamp guards & the Wipac LED maps are waterproof to IP67 which should suffice for my offroading these days. Question is; once I have removed the original military lights, are the standard 73mm lights a straight swap. Also, any reason not to do this? Cheers, Paul

Cheers qwakers, looks decent and a considerable saving on the Blue Sea one. Many thanks