agent nomad

Not North West but in Hull have a look at http://www.premiergalvanizing.co.uk/

I am not using a galv chassis just yet, I will have the existing one galvanised next year as I need to save up to get it done and it's all the other little bits that you just have to replace, cos it's only a few pounds extra and it soon adds up I have built a Westfield 7 before with 255bhp and weighing in at 550kgs so know how out of hand the wish list can become that had a sequential dog box., So cutting and welding a new mount on is not that big a problem I would just need to do it and then run it for a while to prove it all work as it should then strip the body etc off for galvanising. The cost of the conversion bits for a LT77 to R380 is around £400/£450 from Ashcrofts then find a gear box or pay Ashcrofts £995+vat for an outright gearbox and bell housing ready to fit.

Lets say just because you could which gear box to mate to a 200Tdi Let me explane a little I may have the time and money next year 2014 to rebuild my 200Tdi 90 van So as I have already rebuilt the front and rear axles (including Ashcroft lockers) and the transfer box has been serviced the engine has had a new cam belt this year. The gear box is a LT77 and I am wondering if given the chance would it be a worth while task to swop the gear box when I have the 90 stripped down to galv the chassie, I am looking to keep the 200Tdi as it is ok and nice and simple as well as being one of the better engines to have. Is the R380 or the Santana LT85 or the MT82 the gear box of choice details of these are to be found here http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/index.php?act=viewCat&catId=4 Although I said just because you could it also needs to be value for money and not cost too much so Quafe competition sequential dog boxes are off the shopping list (not off the wish list) It wold be good it the gear leavers stayed in the right place with out moving the engine forwards don't think it would go back any more as it looks like it's close to the bulkhead anyway.

If you have loads of room and can get mates to help with the bits you don't understand a chassie swop is not that hard but be warned as you take bits off you look at it and say hay thats only a few pounds and order a new one and before you know it you have built a nearly new truck.<br /><br />A galv chassie will last a life time look at the galv road furniture like lamp posts and barriers etc.<br /><br />I am startting to save up to get my chase galvanised next summer in 2014 as there is little wrong with my chassie but I will grind off all the bits that I don't need and check the welds and condition of the bits I do need, and may/probably put the group work in for a full roll cage at a latter date.<br /><br />

I needed sume and asked for diesel injector bleed off/return pipe and the man in the unipart shop returned with a one meter length in a little bag and it fitted just fine. Sorry have thrown the bag away so don't know the exact size.

Battery tested out at my local garage and where the battery came from, it is being replaced under warranty. So pleased that it's nothing more serious and or time consuming.

Hi all Well the rear crank shaft seal clutch and the timing belt change went ok in the end but where was a small hiccup when I reconnected the battery negative lead to start the engine the battery was down on power and needed a few hours charge to start the engine thought nothing of it but the battery is too weak to start it again today. The 90 has a large Bosch battery which is around a year old or younger the battery fluid is ok for level. So now it's cold and dark out side the battery is on charge and I will see if it will start latter this evening. But there could be an underlying problem. The alternator was removed for the engine out/timing belt work and refitted the moulded plug was to be honest just pushed back on could this have more than one position and therefore in the wrong one I will need a mirror to look can do this latter. It could be that the alternator is tired and not charging as the engine is a 200Tdi and therefore runs its self ones started and the battery therefore being drained down by the lights while driving without recharging the battery. Also there could be a fault or drain that is pulling the battery down as it is stood on the drive over a few days and therefore too weak to start the engine. Just to confirme to test the alternator is charging using a multimeter when stood the battery will read 12v and when the engine is running and the alternator charging it should read around 14.5v does the alternator charge at tick over or does it need to be at say 1500rpm and above. If it is an electrical fault dragging the battery down where are the usual places to start looking. If it's the alternator can I upgrade to a larger powered one easily or is it not worth it as above I do have a lage battery and intend fitting a second one in the future the only none standard electrical load is 6 extra spot lights. If an alternator upgrade is possible does anyone have a part number so I can get one from a local motor factors and is it a straight swop. Some feed back on the engine out for the crankshaft seal from my point of view is engine out is the easiest way and I could then work on it in relative comfort of my garage and fit the seal and do the timing on the engine stand. One little thing when putting the engine back in it would not engage with the gear box for over an hour and a half of struggling this was a simple error when cleaning the bell housing there was a 10mm stud missing so I bought one and fitted it oh dear latter found it should be missing as there is no hole for it to fit in the gear box.

Well I have been out in the cold to have a look and for a starting point I removed the wadding plug. Here starts the confirmation of the next steps I drained a litre of engine oil out of the bell housing via the wadding plug. So next step is to replace the damaged clutch components and the crankshaft oil seal or whatever has caused the leak, some thoughts of my own are that the seal has just failed or the engine has an increased pressure in the crank (piston rings passing) and or a blocked breather system the breather system is something that is easy enough to check and I will do this, so is there anything else that should be checked? My next question (may start a new thread) is which is easiest and or best way to go, engine out or gearbox and transfer box out to get at the clutch and crank shaft oil seal?

Head gasket and out through the exhaust.

Yes I have been out to do some xmas shopping and it drove ok, but if I apply full gas in 3rd or 4th gear it sounds like an auto on kick down but without the increase in speed lift off the gas and the engine and transmission catch each other up and alls ok again, so for my money it's the release bearing holding the clutch depressed a little or the clutch has had it...... May go and see my local garage and see if he will lend me a ramp for a few days for beer money. Nice and dry still cold though but loads better than on a drive way.

Clutch questions 200TDI 1992 ish Well on the way home from a 12 hr night shift I stopped at the scene of a car fire to check everyone was out and the Fire service where on there way. as I left it was raining and the road goes over a railway line so a flyover and a small incline, at first I thought it was possibly wheel spin but not in 3rd gear it appears that the clutch was slipping but only a little bit and not for long, I was tired and thought it could have been me, feet to brain interface not working well so played about a little and it would seam that the clutch is slipping, would the bitting point move due to wear as it feels like it is now right at the top of the pedal stroke or have I just got a simple adjustment to make and all will be fine, I know that I should just go outside and adjust it and try but it is cold and raining out side. Next question If the clutch needs changing is it a DIY job on a drive way ( I have the necessary skills mechanical fitter in the power industery) The clutch is probably just under two years and 10,000 miles old when I got the LR the gear box broke on the drive home and cost me a gear box this was done by a local garage and a specialist gear box man, while the box was out we looked at the clutch as the local garage suggested a clutch at the time I said the previous owner said it had just had a clutch Ha Ha Ha ha said so we looked at it and there was no sign of any clutch dust let alone any wear so we left it well alone. If it is some thing that can be done at home which way is easiest does both the gear box and transfer box need to come out or can they move back enough to get at the clutch and what is the best way to realign the clutch plate. I did a quick search before going to sleep this morning but didn't find the right answers....

Hi all my drivers door mechanism appears to have failed, as when I use the key to try and unlock the door all that happens is the key turns with a little friction but no click or thud to say it's unlocked. It will not unlock from inside either. So what is the best way to get the door open so I can get the door card off to effect a repair.

Duckworths are a main agents and therefore main agent prices Famous four are an independent and cheaper For the things I cannot do my self (Defender 90) I use Martin at Aztec engineering a one man independent workshop he is just outside Louth in South Sumercotes http://www.aztechlandrover.com/

When I got a kit from Paddocks it came with one pin but not the other one carn't remember which way round it was as I am at work so hard to check.

I have a set of swivels [1992 vintage] one side is stripped down and the other just removed from the axle tube if this makes the down time shorter you can have the bits for a small fee, then you can repair this set then just swoop the bits over, so you should know what you need in advance.

I have done this for My own Landrover defender as well as many Westfield sports cars both have been through MOT's but I know the tester so check elsewhere. If I do the cut, machine and weld on I can make it fit within reason what ever length you want. Paul 07757673303 if you need to talk through how it works.

For top money break it.

Work out how long the spacer needs to be for your set up and have some machined at your local machine shop or send me a drawing and I will machine you some up out of A4 stainless steel

Haven't any picture anymore I used to do a them for Westfield owners I use a machined joint tube for a few reasons, you can adjust the length, it is a machined press fit [doesn't need welding but always do] it keeps it all in line and square when welded and you have two filet welds that ends up a stronger job also it can be pinned in position I didn't bother when used on a Westfield, as the front axle corner weights are around 300kgs as apposed to a landrover which must be around 1000kgs and requires power steering to turn the wheels I have pinned my joint in the Defender I will post some pictures of the fitted wheel etc in a short while. [off to find camera]

Yes but as you have to cut the spline bit off and make a sleeve to press onto the steering shaft, you can adjust the wheel position to your requirements. Then weld it together, the hard bit is getting it out of the truck to machine it and weld it up.

I fitted a removable steering wheel withe a weld on boss Makes it harder to steal when the steering wheel is not in the truck.

Tomcat motorsport had some on a shelf while I was there today it not on the web site so ring and ask for Paul [not me]. http://www.tomcatmotorsport.co.uk/index.htm Paul.

If you started it up in gear and then realized, so you would try and pull the gear stick back into neutral without depressing the clutch this would be hard to do as it is driving on the gear teeth and would require a fair bit of effort, as you are doing this you also get hit on the head, so everything is a little blurred, the possible result is you have pulled the gear stick linkage apart enough for it to flop around and only find one gear. So the repair could be re adjust the linkage and it's all ok. Paul.

As is said at work you have got to want to remove it...... Some of the stuff at work is big and properly stuck on and requires lots of effort.