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Everything posted by verminhunter
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I have a like brand new LT230Q T/B with no diff lock. I also have a LT230T with diff lock in fair condition. Is it possible to fit the diff lock gubbins into the better 230Q T/B? Ie by swapping the front output shaft and dog clutch from the 230T into the 230Q than fitting the front housing with the diff lock and hi/lo levers from the 230T.
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Try this chap, most winches just need stripping down and a good clean and rebuild.. http://www.wanderingtrail.com/Repairs_Rebuilds/warn_winch/warnwinch.html
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Help on a uncomfortable noise
verminhunter replied to potato head's topic in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Had this on a Skyline once it was a loose pad where they slide it had got worn down badly caused by a knackered wheel bearing. The pad would be forced to the top of the calliper when the brake was applied it would only do it again if the car was reversed and brakes applied setting the pad to the bottom again. -
Keyfob resynchronisation with Nanocom
verminhunter replied to Speedy_Gonzales's topic in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
I too need this doing with my spare fobs, in Torbay area.. -
I have fitted a CB radio to my Defender and am not getting a very good reception. I have trawled the internet for advice and done everything suggested. Is there anyone in the Torbay area that knows their stuff with CB's and willing to have a butchers for me?
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Hi folks can anyone help me I need a r380 output shaft seal for tomorrow, I am in Yorkshire Thorne near Doncaster. I will be driving up to Durham in the morning to collect a transfer box and need to get the seal so I can get it fitted for the trip back to Devon on Monday. If anyone can help please call me on 07935597638
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Had a similar problem on a car at work, it turned out that one flexi had broken up inside and one of the copper pipes had been trapped by someone jacking the car up without looking where the jack was hitting the chasis. I never worked out why it would cause the problem it did but once all flexes were replaced with braided and copper pipe replaced all was good.
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cheers that will be very helpful.. many thanks..
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I bought a hayne's manual for wiring diagram reference, I have a 2000 W reg defender 90 the manual states it covers this model year. But the wiring diagrams don't tally at all especially reference to fuse box info. It gives 300 tdi and 2002 onwards td5 which leaves me high and dry, it would be nice if they made this clear on the cover.. Rant over sorry.
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Help needed asap TD5 immobiliser
verminhunter replied to verminhunter's topic in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Sorted!! you were right just lost sync just need to get an original switch panel with the plugs the one near your right knee so I can put it back to standard..Anyone got one? -
Help needed asap TD5 immobiliser
verminhunter replied to verminhunter's topic in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Looks like a trip to the dealers but I can't get there... do you think RAC will be able to do something with it? I can feel a expensive spend on a nanocom or Hawkeye been bought next week.. -
Hi folks Happy New Year.. To welcome me into the new year I have now got a dead TD5 90... I have just fitted my Raptor dash console all went well and looking good, but the previous owner had fitted the 2003 onwards centre console into my Y2K 90 to do this he has made a right poor job of extending the wires for the hazard warning switch so while I was trying to make it better I blew the fuse under the seat for the alarm/interior lights etc. I fitted a new fuse but now my keyfob won't deactivate/activate the alarm and when I turn the ignition switch the alarm starts singing. The engine warning light comes on and there is no power to the starter. So now I am in the S***t big time.. I don't have the code for the keyfob either.. I wish I could get rid of the alarm/immobiliser altogether but guess that's not possible. Also could someone take a photo of the wires going to the hazard warning switch showing what wire goes to which pin on the 2003>td5 90 and the older version so I can cross reference. The Haynes manual is a waste of time as none of the diagrams are anything like my 90... PLEASE HELP ME....... I
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I thought a Fiat Multipla was ugly....
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Got them today... What can I say the quality is fantastic, superb service many thanks... It shows that things can be made for a fair price, I looked at mantec window grills/guards Christ where do they get their prices? the same crazy place Exmoor trim do... The window guards have far less manufacturing processes than the Raptor Dash yet more than double the price.. Why do these company's think because Defenders are grossly over priced all the after-market goodies should be too... Sorry rant over... Raptor Engineering one company that is trading in the real world thank's again..
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Just ordered the dash console, Binnacle mount and a hand full of switches.. Cant wait ......
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Winter driving must have on board list..
verminhunter replied to verminhunter's topic in Getting out and about
All went well thank's got home no bother Defender drove well a few little niggles to sort but that's Land Rovers.. The diff lock light decided to stop working so that's tomorrows job.. I got rid of the stupid amount of stickers the previous owner had slapped everywhere...I will go through it and service every nut and bolt make sure it's all spot on, I am loving been back in a Defender though.. -
Winter driving must have on board list..
verminhunter replied to verminhunter's topic in Getting out and about
Cheers chap, will do a bit of questioning about the prop when I look at the 90.. -
Most of them are Chinese copy's of the more expensive brands, I see a lot of it in the Japanese tuning world Some are quite good, the pipes that are supplied with some of them are nasty though and rust internally quite quick.. I have a friend running a 750bhp R32 skyline with a £150 Eblag inter-cooler on with no issues at all running in excess of 2bar boost. I had a similar one on my 400bhp Silvia S15 with no issues. I also have a very expensive ECU and can see my charge temp's live on my laptop, I have now fitted a very expensive ARC intercooler and the charge temps are only marginally better on high boost. Bigger isn't always best though it's the efficiency of the core and the shape of the inter-cooler in regards to the type of turbo too.. There is a lot of science to it but you need to find the most efficient core that will cool the charge temp as much as poss with out pressure drop, this is where the shape comes in.. Big turbo long inter-cooler small turbo short inter-cooler.. If you fit a short fat inter-cooler while running big turbo's the air can be through the inter-cooler before it has been efficiently cooled. and a small turbo and long inter-cooler sometimes gets too much pressure drop.. Then you have ball bearing turbo's that spool up quicker so can cope better with a bigger inter-cooler. The variables are vast but do a bit of homework on the volume of air that is produced at boost with your turbo than find a core that will be at say 80% when on full boost in average ambient temps. I will be looking for a short deep inter-cooler when I upgrade mine with plenty of internal diffusing fins.. I will Try and upload some pics of the internals of a cheap & nasty inter-cooler and a high end inter-cooler you will see what I mean.. Then there is water spray kits, better boost solenoid's etc etc... A fancy website boasting all the knowledge don't mean they are right either.. They will have lot's of happy customers if the customer don't know if it's right, wrong, could be better for instance.. They could be getting a result that is easy to get with noticeable gains that sell well with good profit and that is where they are happy..
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Winter driving must have on board list..
verminhunter replied to verminhunter's topic in Getting out and about
What type of battery is it? -
Winter driving must have on board list..
verminhunter replied to verminhunter's topic in Getting out and about
No I'm not buying from there I know there are more "Tash & Glasses" wearing Land Rovers in that area... I will be buying from a chap in the Wirral, He's a member of a 4x4 club near him and a member on another forum I am part of. I have checked all his old postings and everything tally's up with what he has said to me describing his past 3 years ownership of the 90, the HPI check is spot on and I have my list of checks to do.. I think it's a good un! I am From a town near Doncaster 'Thorne' and I will be picking my Mum up to bring her down to my house for Christmas. Me and the misus just bought our first house in April and looking forward to hosting the festive season for the first time..Although I will be sat in the living room looking at my 90 on the drive thinking of all the bit's I'm going to make for it.. The new MAN SHED will be built in the new year and my lathe and milling machine will be buzzing away making stuff. I have just bought this in case I have to spend a few hours parked on the M5 in snow.. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-JETBOIL-FLASH-Cooking-System-Stove-Camping-BLACK-/120829638339?pt=UK_SportingGoods_Camping_CookingSupplies_ET&hash=item1c2201f6c3#ht_901wt_970 It's a right bit of kit... -
I use one of those oil removal pumps that suck oil out through the dipstick tube, I fit it to the pipe coming out of the fuel filter housing on most TDCI/common rail diesels and suck the fuel through until there is a good steady flow then pop the pipe back on and away you go. I have done this on some forklifts that are fitted with the Puma engine but there may be differences with the fuel filter set up on the 90. I use this method on both the Ford Focus Diesel TDCI's me and the misus run. This link will take you to a pump.. it's cheaper and can be used for allsorts.. One of those tools that you wonder how you managed without it.. http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003G2YV1I/ref=asc_df_B003G2YV1I5651262?smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&tag=googlecouk06-21&linkCode=asn&creative=22206&creativeASIN=B003G2YV1I Hope it helps..