discomark10

Sounds like a starter issue, sound like it engages but doesn't spin.

You could make one fairly easy. pick up some large bearings to fit the shaft your going to use and get a bit of tube turned to size so it fits over the bearings.

I cant remember the exact dimensions, I was reading up about it while ago, but when boosting you want to aim for less restrictive volume and the GEMS mani can be enlarged further easily where as the banana THOR cannot, plus its not an ideal design for bolting a SC to. Dry sumps don't look that complicated, I saw a build on one a few years back and it didn't look complicated then. I'm tempted to have a bash at making one myself as the RV8 pumps are something to be desired. May I ask why you want to aim for such a high PSI? Check these guys out, they import yank motors for similar money your looking at for a boost kit if you do decide to go to the dark side. https://www.facebook.com/DLAxles?fref=ts

I have to say a 454 with a bell housing adaptor would be a very good solution. With the THOR the inlet manifold is very restrictive due to its narrow bore. Its good for low torque but restrictive at top end and especially for boost! The comp ratio is the same I believe.

tis indeed!

To be fair that does flex alright and a balanced amount!

I think you have hit some of the nail on the head! I think its some of the instability on a angled drop is down to a mixture of unbalanced setups and pushing the stock arm arrangements past suitable angles. most people with some flex have huge rear travel and when the stiff front end drops in a hole causing the the body to roll with it and one rear wheel to drop down and try to walk under the body and tip the body more! I have to agree, The only way I can see a retained setup being an advantage over a properly set up articulation with no dislocation is on side slope where the axle/wheel weight would help it from rolling. Looking at the pics of Bills LR makes me think some sort of opposite corner ARB system would help with the instability on side angles, so the opposite corner can only do to an extent what the other is doing... to the the only way I can see this working is with a ram/air system.

70 front* and 80 rear and he said they owe him 550

If your interested my mates selling a front and rear Dana80's

Another solution would be to make some kind of "high steer" setup (http://seilers.smugmug.com/Fabrication/High-Pinion-Dana-44/HPD44/DSC3090/890801181_ciaQn-X2.jpg)

One solution would be to have bent arms

yea it was running fine.. just usual cap related problems ever now and then. so the dis should run without the pip/saw to the MJ with only vr coils and power? I just cut the power to the MJ, wonder if it needs disconnecting all together. going to do a timing check on all 4 coils at 90deg I tervalls to check there firing in order. My mate cam over and befor I told him the issues I was having he said it sounded like the leads are wrong. cheers for the help guys.. apreciated!

It's connected to the dizy still for 14cux fuel relays. Twisting the dizy doesn't seem to change anything. I tried turning the EDIS relay on and cranking, but nothing.

Oh it can do that? Ill give it a try

Just checked for a 4th time, this time had the gf check also and its defo connected right in terms of coils.

that was only at the start when it was doing its own thing

yea timing seems good. . I assume you do it from Clynder 1 right? to be honest they are mirrored but I changed the points around to suit and I've checked it like 3 times. itsrunning from the dizy atm, it doesn't time the fuelpulses fromt it does it.. if it does how do I time it? it is.connected and does change as expected

Putting this to one side for the moment. Is anyone able to shed any light on why this MJ seems to run awfully bad. its not the maf nor is it the ecu as I swaped them both out with the same results. apologies for the 1st vid being upsude down. You can hear it backfiring ect. Checked the plugs are on the right coil. cheers mark

Cheers that helps, ill try and have a look or even contact them, it may have even had a voltage doubler or similar in it, as you said it had more possibly. I've tried with and without the resistor, we used an oscilloscope to measure it all each time. EDIT: Is this it on this page, 2nd item? http://trigger-wheels.com/store/contents/en-uk/d58.html

you may be right but why does mine and by the sounds of it, others who have posted not run on the lower votage.And what about the 75 volts from the coil/dizy? Somethings not adding up. And on the flapper at least, it uses the same system with a voltage devider which also backs up the fact it needs the high voltage. I think your right about it using it for the rpm. when I turned the dizy with a drill it ran and seemed to run a bit better when I sped it up to a certain extent. but I was more interested in getting it running in the first place.

Aniesigh pretty sure that for the tacho (rev counter) which is a different wire but also happens to be white/black. Ive measured the pulse from the dizy/coil and its around 75volts and a pulse below around 60volts does not allow it to work. the zenor diode limits the voltage on the kit your talking about which is another thing to back up the reasoning it's not the same thing.

its not so much about the amount of pulses. Testing it with the distributor by hand it runs the relays for about 2 secconds every pulse and at 500 RPMM your looking at about 16 pulses a second of 1 coil, I think that it must be due to the total lack of information about the internal workings of the ECU. but it would work fine with too many pulses and running off all 4 would be the same as the distributor as its still 8 pulses per revolution. we tried looking for a curcuit diagram for it with no avail.

I tried this, it only initiates the fuel relay at around a 60 volt spike. tried several lower voltages with now luck.You not thinking about non alternator tacho?

91 disco, is yours defo 14cux hotwire not 14cu flapper?

Just been looking at the ecu, trying to figure out how it accepts the 60 volts, going to give something a try before we make a doubler.