pupstew

its just i have never had this click before and it sounds very much like something "sparking" or arcing

Hi, ive just returned from a camping trip in Keswick and the 110 conked out on the A66 about 15 miles after setting off. The engine warning light illuminated and the engine went into what lookes like a engine protection mode and allowerd me to crawl to a laybay. I had a good look over the block and couldnt see any issues. I restared the car and the light went out on key start as normal....It has done this once befopre about 4 months ago and the same occured......any thought? On a separate note i've noticed that when i drop from 5th gear into neutral before going for a further gear i get a click or sparking sound that i dont get on any other area of the gear box......any ideas? Ever grateful....

Is the lower dash easy to get in to? it seems like where the cable gets to the flaps the mechanism might have seized. Is this feasable?

Right so tonight I delved deep inside the dash board top to dig my way to the nut on the back of the front windscreen washer jet with success. Content with my mini win i decided to have a look at the heater controls on the drivers console. The speed control is fine but a little stiff so a touch of lubrication sorted that out. The temperature controller was also spot on and works fine. However that the directional contoller is as much use as a fart in a space suit. The arm moves ish but the control cable slides back and forward through the clamp. I repositioned the clamp and have found that ais on the other end must be seized. So here is the question.......what is on the other end? and how the hell do i get to it easily.... Cheers

Thankfully the stereo is a knacker of a thing so im not to worried about that, but there is a factory fitted alarm with one of the old fobs and the sensor above the drivers door pillar. I will have a look at the handbook and see what it says. thanks for the help....going to go for a Varta E38 with 74AH and 740CC wish me luck

so....been out to add a solar battery maintainer to my '99 TD5 110 and found that the Bosch AsiaSilver battery which used to display the green good to go magic eye now has turned black which apparently means check.....(or actually nearly knackered i suspect). So probably going to replace it with a new Bosch or Varta battery.....but.....i dont have a good knowledge of car electrics and am finding my feet very slowly. If i disconnect the battery to replace it with the new one do i need to protect anything before hand....ie engine management or any other new fangled control which will render the 110 inoperable???? any advice would be appreciated. Cheers

hi, im following this with interest cos i was just about to post asking for advice on which choice of dual / split battery system to look at for my 110 td5.

Well finally gave in and took the 110 to Durham 4x4 and they have diagnosed the problem of the rythmic knocking nolise as a failure of the front diff which is a bit of a bugger if im honest. Well what can you do apart from have i mended and pay the bill....herumph....I was hoping to get at least through the first year of ownership before having anything major done. nope no chance....

Ah see what you mean, the prop shafts were fine initially and have been marked to make sure that they remain in the same alignment. i've done the universal joints on the front prop shaft tonight and did finds some wear on the old UJ's, but in time honoured traditioni when everything was back together the noise was still there....so its Durham 4x4 for me on saturday i think...

phased correctly?

right ive been on my back again tonight with the hand brake off and out of gear, there is a slight play on the front prop shaft so im going to repalce the Universal joints. Ive already had each wheel jacked up and checked for movement on the hubs, and checked all the disks are running freely / brakes pads not catching. The hand brake disk is also nice and free when off. The noise slows with the brakes but that i assumed is linked to the slowing of the wheels, but the sound doesnt go with application of the brakes. Others think that the sound is faster than one wheel revolution so it does point to the prop shafts again....

right so i still think the next move is to cut my losses and replace the front prop uj's and see if that helps yer?

In fairness this is a check on the vehicle....right next job it take the front prop shaft out and replace the universal joints on this and make sure the shaft is sliding.

the front prop is showing no signs of movement at all...im tempted to replace the universal joints on that too

Right so after thinking that the rhythmic noise when i free wheeled was a worn universal joint on the rear prop shaft i have today taken that to bits and installed the one i bought this morning. I took the car on a test drive and yep you guessed it.....no flipping change...still a rhythmic bumping noise when free wheeling..... So after a bit of hanging out of windows and driving along with others in the front we now thingk it is from the front drive train. Ive checked the operation of he brakes and also driven round in circles incase it is a hub bearing to no avail. Any guidance would be appreciated...... on the same note is it right that wnen i jack up one front wheel i can turn the raised wheel for full revolutions ...should the diff not stop this happening?

im in Durham City and might hold you to that, cheers

Thanks all, ive checked the a frame and the bushes look ok, the exhaust fixings are solid and there is no areas of knock on the frame or floor area. Will give George at Durham 4x4 a buzz and order the uj's and will keep you posted. Cheers for the help again

Well after taking all the wheels of the 110 defender and finding bugger all wrong i have been over the whole drive train. I may be completely wrong and will happily be pointed in the right direction but i suspect the noise is coming from a worn universal joint on the rear prop shaft. Anyone got any advice on whether i should replace with an original Landrover original or someone elses?

oh thank god for that...i though i was going completely mad......crock of .......

Has anyone heard about a method for taking up the slack on the shaft between the front and rear axles? got this from another forum but im not convinced it will really do anything... It goes a little something like this......... "Try this -> 1. park facing downward on a hill. 2. pull hand brake, release all gears and footbrake 3. move the differential to low (clutch in) 4. move the differential to high 5. move the differential to diff lock in high 6. roll the vehicle slightly forward till the 'diff lock' light engages 7. release the diff lock this usually forces up the 'slack' between the back and front axle on a vehicle that might have problems on the CV joints." (http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/knocking-noise-rear-transmission-22145.html) Thoughts?

right given that a go and they are all secure, im wondering about the pads and discs droning?

Right so I go out on a drive this morning and everything is going fine...........i get about 3 miles from home and then there is a small thump.......but what i am left with now is a rhythmic rumbling noise (bump bum bump bump.....crued i know!) which beats with the rotation of the wheels. It makes the noise when freewheeling so have discounted the frount end and gearbox Any thoughts would be appreciated..... Another boilersuit day to follow soon i guess! Cheers

thanks for these optoins, it looks like a busy xmas holidays.......there are some paint cracking in the external gutter channels. It is parked on an angle front to back so i have positioned blue paper towel at intervals along the channel and see if i can locate an area where it is coming in then closely examine that point from there....figured if i can reduce the area to inspect it has got to help......cheers.....will keep you posted

Hi, '99 plate 110 sw....well i now have a wet leg from water that appears to have collected in the U shaped chanel that bolts the roof to the side panelling. When i braked it followed the channel and ran out by the drivers door.......Anyone had this before and worked out where the water was comming from ? Ive insulated the roof so have ruled out condensation, but i could be wrong......

cool would be interested in giving this a go, is the wiring similar?