jpkp0007

Happens to my 110 csw rear door all the time. I've found that putting the inside knob down (locked) then whacking the outside of the door with my fist (occasionally foot) and then unlocking from inside works... ok so sometimes i have to do it more than once... increasingly i have to do it more than once... and the door's now dented. I will get around to fixing it it's just you know oh well... I'll go away now and hang my head in shame.

oooh. beware the evil that is the French MOT (controle technique I think), which is MUCH more rigorous than ours. I have 2 friends with defenders in France. When first you go over you don't have to do the controle technique, but in time and if you want to make your landy proper French, they'll really run the rule over it.

...they look daft and they'll confuse your high spec landy designed computerised speedo which will think it is counting the revolutions of the bigger wheel... I think.

Aha. Almost snap. I've ordered this http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/Pro...pcode=STAST3107 with a UNF 5/8 but have no idea if it'll fit!

Anyone tell me what size thread adapter I need to fit a Defender 200TDi head? M16? 5/8 UNF? Other

Scotian, you gave me a scare! Being the nerd I am I dashed off and looked up the official Landy 110 2.5Tdi pressures again. They are 28 front (1.93 bar) and 48 rear (3.309 bar) - and they're the same loaded / at speed / whatever. I know, I know - that seems ridiculously high (on the back). What can I tell you? I ran the back tyres on a lower pressure for a while and my mpg dived. Maybe I'm doing my sums wrong? Here's how I work it out. I just filled up today (74.5 litres) after 524 miles (on the Defender clock), which means I used 16.39 gallons (74.5 litres divided by 4.546) , giving an mpg of 31.97. Of course everything's gone to pot now as I've bought a 1991 J plate 110 CSW 200Tdi with big fat tyres. I filled it up t'other day and discovered the seams on the tank leak like nobody's business. I'm hoping that's the reason I only got 430-ish miles on the tank. It's going in for a plastic tank on Wednesday. ...anyone interested in my 200Tdi hard top at £2,000?

First off I'm so glad to know I'm not the only sad mpg obsessed Defender fanatic. I have a 1990 110 200 Tdi, which has done about 240,000 miles on the same engine and gear box (neither reconditioned). It used to do 500 miles on a tank (30mpg) regularly and then dipped to 450 miles. I've tried lots of variables over the last few years (Kenlowe fan, biodiesel, K&N air filter, Brownchurch on, Brownchurch off) and eventually narrowed the major difference down to tyres - both style and pressures. I'm running on Goodyear Wrangler 7.50 R16s set at pressures of 1.9bar (front) and 3.3 bar (rear). As soon as I settled on that the mpg has gone back up to almost 32mpg over the last circa 500 mile tank. I have been sticking to about 60 on the motorway / dual carriageways and not accelerating too hard or using too much engine braking. However, that doesn't make the biggest difference and I'm now a tyre pressure nerd as well as an mpg nerd. Incidentally, I expect to get a bit better improvement soon. I've just noticed that after 18 years the seams on the fuel tank seem to be weeping a bit. I don't know, they just don't make stuff like they used to! PS Best ever was nearly 40 mpg on the way home North through France last year. However, I did have - quite literally - the wind behind me. I had to be careful not to drive too fast. The wind was so strong and I was tanking along at such a speed I though I was going to blow the dang thing up!

Oh Great LR4X4 Gurus, for Lo in this season of good cheer you have saved my festive bacon again My 200 tdi 110 hard top rust bucket heater fan blew a fuse. I swapped the fuse and it blew again. I checked the fan for crud and discovered no crud but a sticky and slow bearing. In accord with advice from this very forum, I sprayed some lube down and tried again. To my enormous disappointment the fan turned but only very slowly... Bum thinks I. That means I've to take the whole heater unit out this weekend and fix it. Then I got in Landy and drove up bumpy track. Lo! For the Landy works in mysterious ways and the bumps freed the motor, the lube fixed the fan and the heater works. Hurrah. Another victory for the glories of Land Rover engineering as practiced in the world of make do and mend!

Thanks all. LR4x4 comes to the numpty's rescue once again! I'll be off to the dealers' on Monday...

Diesel Jim, That looks great but I'm a bit dim. Which supplier / website are you talking about please?

OK crew. Much enjoyable surfing of Craddocks, Paddocks etc has been ultimately fruitless. For some strange reason SWMBO is insisting I keep the cheesy blue 1990 graphics on my Defender 110 hard top (it's mostly white & rust). Actually, since I'm a bit of a nerd about it I concede that nothing else will look right, even leaving it white with no transfers. Can anyone point me in the right direction for a supplier?

Aah, so many helpful comments. I'm deeply touched. Answering from the last response back, Yes, it's level when I sit in it... until someone gets in the passenger side. And if the tilt is designed in why is it only apparent on some and not others? Yes, I could put a spring spacer in... but wouldn't that be treating the symptom and not the problem? I'm confused by the coloured spring options... you mean there is a levelled or not levelled choice?! Why? And which is right? Seriously though. Thanks chaps. I'm going to hunt out a Defender spring guru. Scorpion racing? Paddock? Craddock? Suggestions please?

OK. So my 1990 110 Defender leans to the near side more than all those of my mates. I've just replaced the front springs, shocks, turrets etc (did the back shocks at the same time) in the hope that would sort it out as I guessed the whole lot was probably just knackered after +200K miles and 17 years. It didn't cure it (although the ride is improved). My other options are replace the rear springs as well or perhaps the chassis is bent? Any idease anyone?