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About AJL

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    Don't Get Stung By CrapIron Racing!!

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  • Location
    Bucharest, Romania Sometimes Devon, UK

Previous Fields

  • Interests
    Occupation: Director HSE Consultant Interests: Coilsprung Landrovers, Country Persuits & Offroad Motorbikes
  1. Hi all haven't been here for several years as i no longer have a LR Just saw this ad from a UK friend who is trying to develop a LR Tour company in Romania. Maybe suit someone looking for a new start in an amazing part of the world with thousands of miles of incredible unrestricted off Roading
  2. Spotted by a friend today in Sierra Nevarda, Spain See Pic Attached
  3. Thanks for all your suggestions I'll check as soon as the snow thaws
  4. Hi can anyone suggest what this could be please? Over the last 30-50 miles my car had started to make strange noises when driving. There's a constant honking frk The drive train as if there's a small distressed goose underneath. It started approx. 50 miles ago and was most noticeable at first when turning right at low speed. Now it's pretty much constant. The middle prop yoke was changed 1000 miles ago. It sounds more like bearings graunching or as if something needs greasing. Anyone experienced this before? The car has done 62k miles from new and is still on it's original wheel bearings. Any suggestions appreciated James Ps checked underneath and no sign of a goose
  5. OK I've got the procedure which Ralph so quickly kindly sent, problem is I'm in Bucharest, Romania and my user manual and 4 digit immobilizer reactivation code is god knows where without going to a main stealers here in Bucharest is there any way I can override this maybe with the use of Nanocom or test book? Basically without the code in a foreign country i'm a bit screwed I guess if pushed I could take my V5 and ID to the LR Stealers but would they have a record of my immobilizer code on their computer? Many thanks in advance of advice James
  6. Hi After attempting to jump start my TD5 Defender which had a dead battery it now appears that the factory fitted alarm / immobilizer is preventing starting when the jump cables are attached all systems came on lights etc etc however the red light keeps flashing when i turn the key the light shows an engine with a lightening strike across it. I'm guessing this is the immobilizer / engine management system warning light. I've tried blipping the alarm key fobs turning the key through various positions but everything has failed. I'm sure I heard somewhere that there is a specific reset procedure can anyone please advise? Many thanks James
  7. Hi A how to with pics would be great for the tech archive when you get round ro installing! Watching with interest James
  8. With LR's everything is possible just depends on 1). Money 2). Time 3.) Patience
  9. Hi thanks very much! i intend to get it started over the next few days and using your method i'll work through it i'll report what i find James
  10. Thanks very much for all the responses and suggestions. Agreed on all points and I would drive it, however my problem is i'm out of MOT and UK RFL, currently residing with my vehicle in a foreign country and although the vehicle is technically insured I don't fancy the risk! Plus I have a company vehicle now which makes mine somewhat short to long term redundant. James
  11. Thanks very much for all who responded i'll charge the system at the weekend and take a look at what the current drain is. Is there likely to be any serious damage / Reduced-life expectancy to the new Optimas? I'll take a look into Solar charging too seems like an excellent idea. Not sure how they'll fare in the winter here though. Cheers
  12. Quick Question For various reasons i'm not now driving my TD5 Defender very often infect hardly at all now which means its standing for long periods alarmed and locked. a couple of months back I replaced the old batteries as they wouldn't hold a charge and were 4 years old. I put on two Optima Yellow Top 55's connected with an X-Eng slit charger. Having not used the truck for about 3 months both batteries are completely dead. Is it normal that the standard LR Alarm / Immobilizer and power supply to the radio would kill batteries in 3 months? I was expecting the batteries to be a bit flattened but not so dead I couldn't actuate the central locking! Thoughts would be appreciated James
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