SmasherWebbs

That's all well and good pete3000 (thanks for the help) but I have had 12 months of issues with this truck and its met my fanatical limit. Adam001 I will let you know asap

have spent the last 3 weeks spending time and money testing and finding no faults electrical or obviously mechanical yet no luck

Sadly MOT man said my 1999 2.5dse P38 is burning to big a hole in the Ozone and failed it on emissions 30% over limit. Even after throwing money at it the dam thing still sits 0.25-0.4 over the upper limit Dam EU!! So I have no choice but to sell for bits (or a whole) Both inside and out the RR is close to showroom new. minus a few light scratches the gold body work is rust free and the drivers seat shows the only wear inside. On request I can send photos if anyone is interested

Will have to get the seat out and fluke/test the lines from the BeCM. Might be a job for Xmas day to avoid washing up! I was looking for the fault codes from the Range Rover its self I.E. what is the fuse 10/ 11 /12.... fault etc. Just trying to save some time chasing cables. Currently I have a Hawkeye so I can check for most things.

Is it best to just get a new body control module or is it worth stripping and fixing the exsisting one. Thanks elbekko

Well im nine months in and the major issues are solved. Overheating is now a thing of the past thanks to a new head gasket plus Kenlow fan large enough to start a natural disaster. Fully functional air suspension And two working remotes. Now I'm left with the little niggles, can anyone help? Heating front window faults including irregular climate control faults. Pump up the heat in the passenger seat and you will never get it down again. Not a common fault however. Fuse 10 fault. this never goes and all the fuse's are fine. Also no sunroof movement or rear wiper. (need to test cables on these) Drivers door not recognized when opened, where is the door switch? And lastly, window not set every time I turn the ignition off? bloody windows are fine you @#*$ing pig. Anyone care to shed some light on this lot? And if anyone has a full list of fault codes that would be amazing!

Just finished changing the head gasket on my 2.5 diesel P38 (BMW engine). As i expected it was going to be a struggle to start again after the work but after 10+ attempts the engine just wont idle and struggles to start. Runs with a bit of a knock and rattle but not major but keeps going at 1400rpm and sounds like it would on a cold morning. It also continues to blow white smoke out the back even after 10mins continued running! Is this a timing issue? have i missed a tooth? Or fuel line/pump no sign of leaks. Even a new lifter pump has been fitted and no improvement.

I will be damned but its done the job for now. No more bubbling header tank and its holding water better. Think that Kseal will do until I can get it in the garage and rip the head off. I'm actually impressed that's guys!

I'm doubtful but its worth a shot. Thanks guys

Rad weld was as much use as peeing into the wind. She is reluctantly going the garage next week and I'm ready to hear the worst. :-(

Have you ever considered a bike carrier on the hitch? I know you can get them for trials bikes etc. maybe a home made option for the addition weight of the 650 if you can't find one ready made. Saved breaking your back getting the bike in,the back.

Right had the RR on the drive and up on ramps so rad bleed hose was with no argument at the highest point of the cooling system. Pulled the bleed hose off and sure enough there was air in the system. With the garden hose I shot water down the hose until the system was full. I also did this with the engine running from cold for a few mins just to be double sure. So I now take the RR for a quick spin to get it warmed up before its back on the drive to check. Dam the air is back and the system is under pressure. Not a lot but still this has confirmed there is a head gasket leak. Due to female difficulties money has become tight so a gasket change will have to wait and a trip to Halfords and a punt on the evil stuff Rad Weld (or in this case wonder weld ). Normally I would never do such a thing but as the air ingress is minor at this stage I hope I have caught it early and this will do the trick until the real fix can be done. Also as a precaution im going to get a replacement header tank cap as im planning to drill a hole in the existing one to allow the system to de gas while the rad weld does its stuff. Will give you all an update shortly BMW 2.5 TDAuto

If you can find a long bolt or stud you can line it up and start pulling the slave in then catch the original bolts. Had the same issue doing mine last month. Also make sure the plastic cap is off and air and oil can escape as you pull it up make sure your not making life hard work.

Right new pump, thermostat and rad fitted. Whole system flushed and heating matrix proven not to be blocked. And attempt after attempt to remove any possible air from system. Yet given a chance it will over heat on a run. I have even retro fitted an electric fan to the rad to help cooling. So I'm left with my head in my hands and no choice but to remove the thermostat and see if that works. Unless anyone has a good trick to prove the system is air free? Any other ideas? Thanks all

'Bodged it' for now and its running with a inline lift pump. tried bridging the relay and nothing! pump is dead!! Looks like im going to invest in a nibbler as I cant trust myself with a grinder when its that close to the tank! Thanks all!

Spart eroders are awsome bits of kit but they dont like working at great depths. As i found out when the £15K trasnformer blew on an industrial 4inch unit i happened to be working on with a sub The American contractor didnt see the funny side when the smoke and blue sparks came out of it. But i couldnt stop laughing Perfect to exh studs and head bolts you just cant get out.

Brilliant thanks Filip!!

Brilliant thanks Filip!!

Looking to tap into fuel pump 12v supply and need to find the right wire before cutting anything. Any ideas?

And that would be on the tank that is full and still attached to the bottom of the vehicle. smart arse!What I would like to know is where the cable runs from between the engine bay fuse box and tank. I'm planning on re running it to a new inline pump. I could do with a small person to crawl under and find it for me as I'm to round to get all the way under.

Right ignition on and 12v at fuse in engine bay I even swapped the fuel system relay with another and still nothing from the tank. Can I assume that the pump dead ? Next I would like to know where can I find the cable running to the pump?

Ah right. How did you fix that then?

Looking for DT 2.5 tank lift pump (not including sender unit) I know V8 to WA410481 is STC4344 but Im looking for the diesel equivalent. Thanks

P38 DT2.5 (BMW engine) 118k Ran fine yesterday, got in this morning and turned over with nothing not even a fart! Clear hose after fuel filter had a small air bubble in it! Cant hear the tank lift pump running and fuse not blown. How can I prove the pump? Is it worth cutting the cable closer to the pump and connecting to a battery? And is it worth me dropping the tank (which is 3/4 full) or just cutting access in the rear floor to replace the pump if its dead??? Thanks all

Have got word of a rebuild going for 3k same spec. 4k is from a dealer which I might be able to beat down but I was thinking it was to much.