Steve H

By heating the inner bearing race with a bead of weld the whole thing will expand for a short time but should then shrink back even tighter than before so be ready with your pry bars to get it off. If that fails then use the grind/split method, its never let me down. I've not used a run of weld to get an outer race out but I'm picking you'd need to let it cool & shrink a little before trying to pry it out. Steve.

what you need is a clutch alignment tool, which is something which has a main piece the inner diameter of the clutch friction plate splines & at its tip the inner diameter of the spigot bearing. If you know a wood turner, get them to make you one out of a short (1') of broom or shovel handle. Thats what I got made for my last clutch job. There are also commercial kits for this sort of thing with an assortment of different diameter bits, google clutch alignment tools & you'll see what I mean, you may be able to borrow or hire one of these. Once you have your tool put the friction plate in place between the drivenplate/flywheel & pressure plate but only do them up enough to hold the friction plate in place so it won't slip but can be levered around, then pop in the CA Tool & adjust the postion so the tool sticks out square then tighten up the bolts holding the pressure plate in place & you're good to go. Sorry if this sounds confusing, I know what I mean. Steve

Naah, keep at it Marc, law of averages says you've got to be right sooner or later. If you shut up that'll never happen. Steve

According to the Ryco Australia website, the earlier RRs 69-77 used a filter with a 13/16 x 16 UNF thread, the later RRs from 77-95 used filters with a 3/4x16UNF thread. See here,range Rover filters Steve

It is my understanding that the best way to minimise high EGTs is to fit a larger bore exhaust, to get those temps away from the head as quick as possible. Not sure what you've got but 2 1/2" seems to be a popular size for moderate state of tune. Steve

And just everso slightly eloquent for someone who professes not to be able to string a sentence together. Loved it. Steve

Beauty is as beauty does I 'spose, I'd not call them beautiful by a long shot but I have always liked their crisp cut, purposeful look, especially when they went to a bit of tumble home on the top half, sort like SII verus S1 in Land Rover speak. Steve

Have liked the ibex style for a fair bit now, like this even more on first aquaintance, can't help but think that something like this would be an excellent basis for a New Defender. Steve

Bu99a, got me on that one. Thats pretty much what I was thinking of, so take no notice of me (or Western ) Sorry I can't be of more help, trying to think of what sort of things offered such things, there could well be a whole raft of commercial vehicle aps including custom built things such as coaches , ambulances, etc which could well have been offered with such motors, also single cab jobbies such as cranes , excavators etc. Ouch, my head hurts. Steve

I wouldn't discard Westerns reply too quickly. I'm not a series rivet counter but I'm pretty certain that I've seen several different types of wiper motor on series wagons before they went to the S3 type. Having said that, these don't look like the ones shown in my Aus 4wds catalogue but AFAIK the single wiper types were interchangeable. Steve

I think the STC is an ST with a tread compound more resistant to Chipping than the regular ones. Reading Aus & NZ mags, the std STs had problems with the treads chunking out when being used over gravel plains, what the Aussies call "gibber" country. The STC was a revised version to combat this. I imagine it would do OK in the stonier parts of North Africa. Steve

Wot he said! I'd sure like to find out more about the suspension set up, it seems to work well on Toyota 70s, they're a great load carrier & seem to ride OK too. I suspect this would as well. Steve

I've read of this been done to RR/Discos & 110s but not as short a WB as a 90. The 100"ers have vibration problems, it may just be that the rear drive line angle would be too short to be viable??? Steve

Looks like I missed the best part, have to put it high on my to do list when I get back over there I've been following your guys preps for your trip thru Africa, hope it all goes well. All the best. Steve

Thanks for that Martin, I haven't been to that part of Scotland, I went more up the east side toward Thurso, looks like I missed the best parts or maybe its just the great photography Steve

Martin, any chance of some info re the pic locations for us Southern Scots ( my Grand Dad was Scottish anyways ) In particular, the sunset over the harbour, sunset with tower, ruined building on side of Loch, Standing stones (cute pixie ) Thanks, Steve

Thanks for that sj, i reckon the proprtions you've got there look just spot on. As good as any I've seen, I like the hard top too. Steve

I like that, I've always liked the round back extra cabs the best. 'scusing ignorance here, but is that an original Hi-cap back end or did you have to modify it? Steve

[Anorak mode] At risk of being considered contrary I'm fairly certain that they ran 700r16 Michelins, I think the early ones were XCLs & XZLs later on, until the last couple to feature Discos which seemed to run 235/70r16s Goodyear MTs.[/Anorak mode] Steve

Sorry to say Gents, you're all wrong. From owning a 88" SIIa which originally came with 700x16s SATs on, OK 3 SATs & a Triple Traction, I can say for sure that the nearest radial that will fit on a std series rim (5.5" LWB admittedly) is a 215/85 R16, all but the same diameter as the 245/75 that Pete posted but they need at least a 6.5" wide rim. I ran some Hankook RT01s in this size, they were excellent & kept the speedo correct as well. This link will show what I'm on about. Land Rover Tyre Sizes If you're wanting info for tyre sizes for a Disco, he also has this.Disco tyre sizes. Steve

& besides, as western has hinted at, you only need 17" not 20", the 130s are actually 127s. A sheet metal shop should have no trouble bending up a couple of shallow U sections, then you could weld them in the middle just like a factory jobby. You would also need to sleeve the joint & puddle weld the sleeve to the outer skin to give full strength. Steve

245/70x16s will go on no probs, fill out the arches nicely & are about the biggest that don't need any trimming. Steve

Still wake up screaming at night remembering the bottom radiator hose I did on a mini. Longtime ago now. I don't reckon I could find the turbo in a D3 let alone change it. Still can't beat a series for simple accessability. Steve

I would chop the end off your compressor hose & fit a 1/4" female QR fitting. I am though wondering if there will be enough airflow to support this sort of inflator, they normally run off a compressor with a reservoir & have a higher flow than a lot of these smaller compressors are capable of. It might be possible to get a brass valve stem from a truck tyre inner tube & have it brazed onto a female threaded fitting of the size to screw onto the inflator. It may give a slightly flimsy joint compared to QR fittings but it would retain the fitting on the compressor. Steve

Engine is a 2.8 Iveco, so it may be worth checking to see if Iveco/ Fiat Dailys with the same engines run the same Aircon compressor. Steve