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About Inigo

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  1. I've got the two connectors recently cut off my loom in an attempt to upgrade to TD5 dash. You'd need to source some replacement terminals from somewhere as I cut them as short as possible to keep the length on the loom. Happy to post for cost of postage.
  2. I'm not so sure about the bonnet, but otherwise, it does look to be a good spiritual successor to the Defender. I'm certainly keener on it than the new Defender. It will be interesting to see how it develops and if they can keep the interior utilitarian as well and not be tempted by touchscreens for everything.
  3. They were standard on my old Jag XK engine. I seem to remember that the argument was to do with the heating cycle and that wouldn't loosen after repeated heating and cooling.
  4. Yes you did! Glad you managed to fit them and they work. Slightly regret not bothering to fit them myself each time a stone escapes from a tyre, but realistically they'd still be cluttering up my garage.
  5. I had a big cylindrical tank at the rear, where the petrol tank usually goes and a smaller petrol tank under the driver's seat which was filled by removing the seat base.
  6. I'm sure I read somewhere that the new defender did have an element of manual control of things like diff lock, etc. I thought this promising.
  7. Well I was going to take the top off the gearbox anyway to change bushes/any worn parts as my limited experience with tricky to shift gearboxes was replacing worn plastic parts in a triumph herald. A friend suggested that if I was going to replace some components anyway (and the cup that the standard shifter sits in is £90) then I may as well go for a slickshift. He has one on his TD5 and loves it. I found the throw a little shorter, but I wasn't bothered by the longer throw originally. Other minor advantage is that stick no longer bashes against mud dash when I'm less careful.
  8. I'm not imagining it, but it is well hidden on his website: https://www.onlinegearboxparts.com/product/defender-lt85-slickshift/
  9. I've had the vehicle for quite a few years, but not done that many miles. I had that box refurbed early on in my ownership and it was silky smooth at first. Notchiness was after it was refitted with a new clutch, so could be related to that, clutch had to be balanced and, I don't recall exactly, but there were some issues getting it to work. Looks like I should investigate that area. It certainly is an LT85 and the previous time I looked there wasn't a slickshift for it, I just happened to come across it on their website recently and thought it might help, but, as you say it just r
  10. Changed the oil again , made no difference. Fitted a slickshift, bu this might have made things worse - still tricky to engage first and second when cold, but now reverse requires two hands to force it in. I understand that adjusting the bias springs can make reverse easier to engage, but there is almost no springiness returning gearstick to center, I assumed that tightening bias springs further will make Reverse even harder to engage. Having read the overhaul manual, it looks as though I need to remove the top cover and re-adjust the selector forks. Is this possible with the gearbox s
  11. Lovely, thank you. I've actually got two to fit, one to a Puma and one to a 1987 110, but with a much newer rear door. Thanks for the tip about the striker, I'll be less flummoxed when I come to that.
  12. Rear door latch has finally seized shut (after months of warning) so I bought a new genuine one to replace it when I dismantle door. However, it doesn't look the same. Has lightweight drilled handle and a number of what appear to be counterweights on the other end of the external handle. Is this a new improved genuine version or a pattern part. It seems solid enough on the outside, but I'd rather ensure it was genuine if that is what I have paid for. Anyone familiar with this style of latch?
  13. Having been to the alps a couple of weeks ago, I was advised to fill up close to the mountains as they were more likely to have proper winter diesel. I bought some of my own additive which I forgot to take so added in the tank this week after hearing of similar issues.
  14. That is actually very helpful, thanks. I see you have a bulkhead behind your second row seats that gives some rigidity to the upper brackets. Mine would have to be beefier if it was standalone. Considering getting a partial internal roll cage fabricated to give some support to seats, but I'm also nervous about existing seat belt mountings - they are currently through the body above rear sliding windows - whatever strengthening plate may have been added, I don't think the bodywork itself would give much support.
  15. I've just bought some decent leather rear seats from a P38 that I was hoping to replace the existing second row seats in my 1987 110. Currently there is a set of exmoor trim seats that the PO moved back a few inches which gives great leg room for the kids. Seatbelts have been moved back and a frame fabricated for the existing seats. I can modify frame to suit the new seats, but the thing I missed is that the existing seats have the seatback locked in position integral to the seat. The P38 seats are designed so that the top of the seat is locked in position against the bodywork, there is no
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