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HIGH-lux

Getting Comfortable
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  1. Ok cheers. The advice is appreciated! I will just leave the system wired as is and keep it simple
  2. not 100% sure if it is the right pump. Think it is suitable tho. I have been told by another lad on a different forum that his pump runs constantly with the ignition on but engine not running. I read on a site that this is not the correct way to wire the pump up tho. (1st link above) Any input on this...?
  3. Sorry, forgot to say this is with the engine off but ignition on. I thought with the ignition on but the engine not running the pump would prime the system but not keep running? This is what happened with my bike when the fuel in the main tank ran dropped below the pickup pipe , the pump would keep running (ignition on, engine off) as there was no fuel to pressurise the system. I understand this is a different system though. I haven't much experience with the car side of things so you will have to excuse my lack of knowledge!! The truck was an unfinished project so nothing was wired or plumbed when I got it. Just did a search on google and a site said the pump should be wired to the fuel pressure switch. - http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/electric-fuel-pump.html "The easiest way is to use an oil pressure switch. The switch will stop the pump whenever the oil pressure in the engine goes away. So, whenever the engine is off, the pump will turn off automatically. Some switches just do that. But how do I get the pump to run when I'm trying to start the motor and the oil pressure's not up yet? You use a three prong switch like this Standard Ignition PS-64. The switch will also let the pump run when you hit the starter because the engine doesn't have oil pressure yet." Is this correct? If so, I just bought a new switch for it 3 weeks ago as I broke the terminal off by mistake when I was working on the radiator but it was a single terminal switch I got as that is what was fitted before. Would I need a 3 terminal switch to wire up the fuel pump? - http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GPS123
  4. I recently bought a half finished project and all the cooling system hoses were removed when I bought it. I have figured out the main hoses in the system but there are 2 small hoses left which I am unsure of.. They are both on the top of the inlet manifold. One looks like it has a one way valve inside the male connection and the other on the opposite side is much smaller (5/6mm) and has PTFE tape round it. Any ideas where they connect to?
  5. Anyone got any ideas on why my fuel system isn't pressurising?? It's a doner Rover 3.5 V8 twin carb lump in a Hilux MK3. The fuel pump isn't cutting out once the pressure has built up. I have flushed the tank, installed new fuel pick up pipes, put new jubilee clips on all hose joins, installed new inline fuel filter / fuel regulator / T for fuel pressure gauge. I've tried clamping the line before the carbs and the pump slows down but doesn't stop. The pump is a facet fuel pump that a mate gave to me and said it was a decent one but I couldn't be sure.... Possible pump fault..? Is there a way to check? Any other ideas...?
  6. Hi. Please excuse the ignorance of a noob! I was thinking on upgrading my ignition system to a mallory duel point distributor and mallory hyfire 6 ignition unit to get the best performance and mpg from my rover 3.5 V8 twin carb engine. The existing system has a lucas 9BR ballast resistor and lucas coil. Just wanted to know if the mallory setup requires a resistor? If so, would the lucas resistor and coil be suitable for the new mallory setup?
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